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  2. What kind of leather should I use for tack making?

    Back when I was making tack and particularly headstalls I used Wicket and Craig Utility skirting split to 7/8. Using Barge cement and stitching I bond two layers flesh to flesh yielding a 16Oz. product. Carved, tooled, plain, fancy anything you want and because of the 16Oz weight it is/was durable and bullet proof. I guess I've made something over 400 headstalls, and breast collars, saddle bags, 100s of spur leathers. On the lighter weight items I used the same leather spilt 2/3 for the lining. The customers really appreciated the "fully leather lined" products. Also used it for the yokes and trim on chaps and chinks Paul
  3. Snake skin lighter case

    Bought a lighter, made a case.
  4. I know this is probably a dumb question but what the heck. I have made some pistol case or pistol rugs, whatever you want to call them. I am having an extreme problem with putting zippers on the cases. I have tried with & without gussets. Nothing works. I always have bulk at each end of the zipper which looks like crap when I use gussets. And without gussets does not leave enough space from the top flap folding over the bottom flap. You can look at the cheap store bought stuff & they don't seem to have any problems like I am having. I have tried using YKK jacket zippers, closed end zippers & continuous zipper. It makes me say several choice words I best not put on here, lol, cause I have built a few saddles but I can't figure out a zipper, go figure that 1 out. I know there is probably a simple trick to this but apparently I ain't smart enough to figure it out. In advance any help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried using soft flexible lining leather or chap leather around the edge for approximately 1/2"overlay & as a gusset. It is glued & sewn. But the starting & ending end of the zipper comes out way too bulky. Looks sloppy & not good at all. It's lined inside with saddle shearling so it need be sewn over the edge of that too. The ends need to be hidden of course. Thanks for any help.
  5. How did you get into leather work?

    I love this post! I just started a tack and western shop with my wife and daughter and I am in the very beginning stage of leather craft to make basic strap goods - latigos, billets, spur straps, key chain fobs, and so on - nothing heavy. Weaver is about 50 minutes south of me so I've been going there to pick up some materials and trying to figure out sewing, stamping and so on. It is hard as I have arthritis in nearly all of my body and my hands require me to take a break every 10 minutes to relax my pain-ridden hands but I am hoping this will strengthen my hands and it will get easier. I love this craft and what it entails, but it is a challenge. But I am a firm believer that everyone needs a passion and right now this is mine - I just have to make something that I think is worthy to offer to the public. This is yet to happen but I am early into this and I have a lot of hope and determination. this is a very inspiring site and I am on it nearly every day just looking and reading. Wonderful. Cheers, Mike
  6. Piping question

    Interesting question. If bulk is an issue you can certainly skive the piping, the bag pieces or both. Obviously you'd skive the piping on the inside. It also depends upon the project I would think. For instance are you using a rolled top edge?
  7. Instant Vinegaroon No Waiting

    1st step is to make the rust. You need 30% food grade hydrogen peroxide. I used a 12 oz bottle added 2 oz white supermarket vinegar and 2 table spoons of salt swirled it around in a spray bottle until the salt dissolved. then hardware store steel wool, dunk it in a bowl of acetone, shake it off and separate/pull apart the wool so that is not all compressed and use a heat gun or hairdryer to dry it. You don't want it catch on fire. So low heat and then.. once dry spray the wool with vinegar and let it dry. U can use hairdryer again if you don't mind the smell. then spray with the hydrogen peroxide/vinegar/salt solution and INSTANT RUST. BE CAREFUL WHAT ELSE GETS SPRAYED WITH THE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. things can catch fire apparently like organic matter. I did it in the garden and the plants didn't catch on fire but you can see a lot of heat is produced. Rust stains bricks etc. Let it dry out and then put it in a container with apple cider vinegar. I used normal and double strength and I can't tell the difference I don't think. The steel wool is dissolved much faster this way and your vinegaroon is ready pretty much straight away. Then of course you can apply it to your vege tan leather three or more times gets it pretty black. As black as you would ever want it. Dont forget to neutralize the vinegar with bi Carb soda and water. Just rinse with it. And then fresh water to finish. So it's not click your fingers quick, but it's not going to take days or weeks and making the instant rust is great fun. Any questions just let me know. Thanks
  8. Today
  9. Piping question

    I have a question about using piping in a bag to join the gusset on to the front and back. I have never tried it before and I am wondering how you finish it at each end. Anything I have seen on the internet doesn’t address this. I would think it would look a bit bulky and untidy just to cut it off flush. Any info about how to use and finish piping would be much appreciated
  10. Most of the servo motors with control boxes fire off 24VDC signals for things like presser foot lift, back tack, among other things.
  11. What kind of leather should I use for tack making?

    I use Wicket & Craig or Sedgwick bridle leather for my English tack work. 9/10 oz. And split it if I need something lighter.
  12. I agree with Gregg that timing is very important, but relative timing, not absolute. Unless you are setting up for high-performance production, you can rig something up. Have a look at Automation Direct web site, they have everything imaginable for this sort of work.
  13. A while ago I made a harness for an Akita. It didn't go so smoothly. It broke twice and wasn't the correct dimensions. But, it taught me a lot. 1. Don't skive the turn where any hardware will be.... And 2. It pays to make a mock up in craft foam to test fit it to the dog. This harness is made from 1" wide 9/10 oz European bridle leather in Havana brown from rjf leather. I used mostly .6mm tiger thread to hand stitch it (fit my 8spi irons better) but I ran out and had to use some .8mm which worked well. The back strap was a problem on the last one. So to fix, I made it tripple thickness. All turns are full thickness and not skived or split. Each chape has a stationary and floating keeper. Let me know what you think. I'll try and get pics on the dog (for a husky this time)
  14. I wrapped it around a piece of veg-tan 8-10 oz, I hope the picture makes sense...
  15. Hello all! I've recently taken in interested in leathercraft and would love some advice from others as to where I should start, particularly when it comes to figuring out which leather I should be buying. So far I've just been practicing carving, stitching, and dyeing and have made a tooled passport cover which some veg tanned leather I bought on Amazon -- which I will never do again! The leather was stiff and very difficult to stamp and carve. It almost seemed like there was some kind of coating on it as it. I see now why it was so cheap... As an avid horse person, my interests are in definitely tack making, so I'd like to start making simple projects such as wither straps, bronc halters, spur straps, and eventually headstalls. I've seen a few people suggest harness leather for projects such as these, I also see "bridle leather" available on several online leather supply stores. Is there much of a difference? What kind of thickness should I be using for these projects? Can anyone recommend the best type (and brand) of leather for projects like this that won't break the bank? Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
  16. Leather Squadron/Group patches made .......

    Thank you very much, I really enjoy making them, especially when they go to either a veteran or relative of one, which most of my works have , all the best
  17. Thanks I have been in industrial maintenance for 30 years. I can do the work to set it up.I just never have seen this type of setup.I would need air solenoid and switches to operate them. Would I need momentary switches or switches that have different positions? I could maybe come up with some 120c and just wire some switches in to control them. 120v solenoids
  18. Hello and question about gusset

    That explains the concern. Card stock is very stiff. BTW, when cutting your gussets, leave extra length. If you measure exactly it is almost sure to come out too short. The first one I did, I glued together and then punched holes and stitched. The second go-round I pre-punched the gusset stitching holes and the panels and everything lined up great.I left 2" of extra length on the gussets, but so long as you start on one side and have the holes spaced equally from the top edge, it should line up no problem. BTW, if you are wanting to practice on real leather but don't want to spend a fortune, check out Springfield Leather's website. They frequently feature $25.00 sides. Used to be $20.00 when I would walk in their store, but I guess everything goes up. Anyway, they have limited colors as you can imagine, but it would be a great way to make a bag, have plenty of leather to work with and use it as practice. If it turns out good and it is neon yellow, give it to a kid for school!
  19. Multitool pouch

    Love it! I noticed the grommet. Is that to hang keys from?
  20. Multitool pouch

    Thanks, all photos are taken with my phone (samsung s8)
  21. Saddles are waaaay out of my realm, but I can appreciate the skills required. Your work is amazing to me. Attention to detail and the creation of a custom tool is inspiring. Thanks for sharing!
  22. Long Wallet

    ^^^ What he said.^^^
  23. Long Wallet

    If you mean square corners, look at Nigel Armitage's video on Youtube where he describes using a round hole on the corner and using it as a "hinge" to achieve a nice transition from axis-to-axis. Are you using a 2-prong iron on the rounded corners? The long wallet corners look fine to me.
  24. Long Wallet

    Some folks are content with "good enough" while others continue to strive for what they feel is the "perfect" stitch. Your work is already good enough in my opinion. Taking it to the next level would require experimentation and studying sources such as Valerie Michael ("The Leatherworking Handbook") or Nigel Armitage's videos on Youtube. Ian Atkinson also has some very helpful videos. Both gentlemen share a ton of tips and techniques that if understood will lift anyone's work to another level. I'm a fan of the traditional zig-zag saddle stitch. I strive (and often fail) to achieve the slant on both sides of my work. When I do succeed it brings me great satisfaction. You've achieved a lot in a short time. Keep reaching higher and your work will be astonishing.
  25. Long Wallet

    @Tugadude I'm having trouble on corners of wallet, I can't get consistent pattern of stitching. I try my best and always making goods with TLC.
  26. Singer Leather Sewing Machines

    Stole this from the Canadian Leathercrafter's FB page...sorry, too funny not to share!
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