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It's very odd that it'll pierce the leather without thread but just stop when you thread the needle, but the hand wheel turns. There's a cover on top right next to the hand wheel. Open it up and see if the arm shaft is turning when it won't pierce the leather. I wonder if the needle bar isn't clamped tight ... Still very odd behavior.

James Arness (the actor portraying Matt Dillon) was trained, like many other actors, by Arvo Ojalla, a noted holster maker and quick-draw artist of the time. The holster and belt were probably from Ojalla's shop also, as he was the source for a lot of western TV shows and movies. In the opening scene in every episode Mr. Dillon is faced off against a man for a street duel, and that part was played by Arvo Ojalla. There is a spoof version of the opening scene you can probably find on U-tube in which Dillon faces off against Ojalla, then Dillon gets shot and collapses. Otherwise, a close rendition of the usual episode opening, but Matt Dillon lying dead in the street. They were all probably having a little fun that day. James Arness was a brother to actor Peter Graves, of the original "Mission Impossible" series and some of the later movies. The original radio show "Gunsmoke" featured William Conrad (Jake and the Fat Man) as Marshal Dillon. Alongside Arness in the earlier series as his sidekick was Dennis Weaver as Chester. Later years featured Ken Curtis as Festus Hagin. Mr. Curtis grew up in Las Animas, Colorado where his father was sheriff of Bent County, and spent his teen years tending to the prisoners in the county jail overnight. Went on to a singing career with the Sons of the Pioneers prior to WW2, then went into acting with several excellent performances. I was fortunate to meet Mr. Curtis several times during the 1980s and 1990s, always found him to be a very pleasant gentleman. Just about everybody in show business had a role in a Gunsmoke episode at some time over the years. Burt Reynolds had his first significant, and recurring, role. Carroll O'Connor (All in the Family) played a number of characters. You name the actor of the period, he probably appears in Gunsmoke. Nothing about the show "Gunsmoke" is remotely authentic in terms of location, firearms, holsters, or anything else. Pure Hollywood entertainment for the masses.

Great! Thanks for the tips and the pictures. Ill try that out. Very nice work! Do you use right twist thread in your left bobbin on your two needle machine?

I think thats one I've sent to the posters

Yes I can turn it when it stops and the needle will lift up to get the material out. I will check to see if the flywheel is lose. Great suggestion. Thank you

They are 'ruined' now to you. I'd suggest using clean water and giving the affected areas a real wetting and then letting it slowly dry out - days not hours That always worked on items that I had water-spots on

Thanks. I will try that in the future. I’m hoping to come up with something to get rid of the water spots now, it’s several thousand dollars worth of product.

Both machines have an additional short bar connected from above to foot bar. I am not really shure about function My Singer 34(pre34 model) does not have it At 34, it seems to do nothing, until food is lifted (or not really much) The 45 lifts foot on it's own after each stitch. and so the whole device does Other models known having this are for example 16KSV11, 16KSV23, 34K5 (not all, due model change or remove), 34KSV5, 45K48, 45K53....

I think your tooling is incredible. But I think your paint/dye work is equally impressive. Even when enlarged I don't see any overflow on adjacent areas. You obviously are very meticulous. Maybe you could share any tips/tricks. Very good work. Something to be proud of.

...actually, only precice Singer source says "alternating presser" ,not "walking foot" so, same as my Singer 15-39, differences are: - 15-39 is the backside foot the pulling one, jumping after pull forward, while 78-3 front foot is pulling in a circle move. - 15-39 has feed dog (single line, as also for leather), no needle feed (see pic) Now here is the question (or are the questions): What exactly is the difference of walking foot and alternating presser? I have here two "Singer walking foot attachments", having an inner and an outer foot. But I am not shure about that. My Singer 29 (long freearm shoemaker) has, what I would call a walking foot, (pulling after stitch back, when needle entered cloth/leather, it's going up and in ordinary position) Also Singer 16 KSV 11 has a single foot, but some do not call it walking foot. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Does anybody have a picture of Singer 78-3 (maybe also other do it) from backside? My machine has close to presser lever a loose plate with 2 holes at upper end. Ok, machine lies flat on ground, I forgot to rotate the image to normal stand

I have a Kenmore 158 that I used to use in my shop when I had to sew cloth and linings. It is a good machine and was well built. I don't know about the availability of parts though. I think they are strong enough to sew soft leather, or to sew patches onto vests, but not over pockets. The Adler you have is a 30-70, not the other way around. ;-) It is a great machine for sewing patches over sleeves and pockets, or for sewing in zippers.

The cb3200 is one of the 441 class sewing machines, but, at 1/2 inch, it has less thickness capacity than the cb4500 and similar large models. The arm is shorter too, measuring in at 10.5 inches. Other than that, it uses the same needles, bobbins and thread. However, the Cowboy raised holster and stirrup plates are too tall for the 3200 due to its lower thickness capacity. Further, the optional drop-down edge guide doesn't fit on the 3200. If most of your projects will be between 1/8th and 1/2 inch thickness, this machine will serve you very well.

Do you mean the hand wheel just spins and the rest of the machine stops? Maybe a safety clutch problem or the hand wheel is loose on the arm shaft? If the belt is slipping, the solution is obvious ... Can you turn it through by hand when it stops?

@Chux I'm in the same boat as yourself was wondering if you had any luck on the Boston style, been looking for the matte and patent leather supplier but with no luck was wondering if you found a good source for these ????

I bought my CB3200 new from Cowboy Bob (Toledo Sewing Machine) back in late 2013 (great folks to deal with...VERY knowledgeable)...absolutely zero regrets as far as function and easy of use. If anything and I could do over, I would have gotten the "big brother" 4500 but that's another machine for another day, i reckon...if I can spare the room (I also have an antique industrial I use for light leather, canvas and cloth). That said, if you've found a good deal on a 3200 in decent working condition...close by your abode (yay, no shipping costs!!!)...I'd jump on that train car. As the experts herein will tell you (paging Wiz and Mr. Bob especially), it and its larger contemporaries have plenty of feet/accessory options and will sew a broad range of thread sizes, albeit with some setup required. Toledo Sewing Machine has the spec's on it...Google them. (for some reason my computer won't let me link it) Hope this helps! Chris

When I put a piece of leather in the machine it will punch the holes perfectly. When I thread the machine up the needle stops at the top of the material and won't go through to start stitching. The fly wheel just spins. What adjustments do I need to do to correct this? The machine is well oiled and free from all thread and dirt..a very clean machine. Thanks

Mclark Thanks. Yes the knot is for the hammer spur strap. I don't have a picture of the back and the pattern is from "the hand of God" pack, (3:10 to yuma) but modified a little to fit a regular belt instead of a gun fighter belt. It's stitched instead of folding over and into a "Mexican style" loop. My client has no desire to have a full rig, he just wanted the holster. So I trimmed some of the extra bulk off to make it more comfortable on a standard belt.

Here's the original link. https://ykk.meclib.jp/library/books/Zippers_101/book/#target/page_no=1

Double K it looks as good as any proressional made rig. The finish is the right color and the stitching is the right size for the project and is nice and even. I assume the knott is for the safety strap? Can we see the back and what holster pattern did you use?

So, I moved you over to the sewing machine area. I don't see any problem talking about the old Kenmore. Ask away. @cpo1wh Is it a flatbed and the guts look something like this?

Nice work. Looks great.

I think you are looking for the pattern pack from tandy. It has 4-5 or more patterns in it.

Hi Tom, I can only see the first page of the document? Brgds Jonas

I grabbed some scrap and did a few quick and dirty finish on 3/4" tape ending for example with folding pieces of 1-k cordura . and there probably other techniques also. You can just Hot Knife, cut . . You can do a double-back fold, and do a quick little zigzag or bar-tack . . you can do an inward 'tuck' fold finish . The double-fold over, and tack is pretty self-explanatory for a finish on the tail-end . Hot Knife, cut-off takes a little practice to make look clean, and also a good seal/melt . Also Nylon hot knifes different than if you using Polyester. Polyester binding. You can make both look good, but they melt/act a little differently. Personally I think nylon cuts melts nicer. The inward tuck fold on the finish. That is used a lot with ending finish. Also on binding where you bind a circumference and finish off running on top your starting point. There a couple ways you can do it, and there is some technique involved that takes a little practice . Main thing is you have to stop the binding a couple inches from the finish. leave the Needle or Needles in the plunge holding down the material . Then slide or fold back you binding Folder out of the way, and cut the binding leaving some binding to work with for making the fold-tuck. Then just sew the finish without using the Folder. Also there couple ways to work the binding with your under-tucking . You can just fold it as is, and fold inward. Or you can do a 'split' center-lengthwise in the tailing piece your tucking . - - - -

I love the moth too！