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I have not done this, but this would be the process: Mark your starting position on both gears. Slide the larger gear left, advance one tooth, slide it right, check for noise. Keep cycling through the teeth until you find the one that is quiet. On mine (Singer 144) the smaller gear has 15 teeth, so that's 15 positions to check. But unless you did some screw swapping (set screw for position screw) I expect you to only need to go one tooth over to find the original position.

I previously shared an image of the patch, and this is the full look of the bag. How does it look to you?

Thanks for letting me know about that I'll make sure to keep the plate on next time. I've tried separating the gears and turning both of them and they don't make the noise on their own so I'm pretty sure its the two gears. and the gears have changed from factory placement so that might be the source of the noise but I'm not sure how to change that.

I just realized that you are running the machine under power without the throat plate in place. That is generally a bad idea as the machine could bind. I don't know if that will affect the sound It's safe to turn by hand without the throat plate though

You might try sliding the gear on the hook driving shaft all the way left (so it no longer drives the hook). Then see if it still makes noise when you move the hand wheel. That will tell you if it's hook related or not. While the gear is out of the way, also try rotating the hook by hand and check for noise there. Before all that: if your teeth are still matched up as from the factory, I suggest marking them before sliding the gear out so you can but them back in the same place.

Strength wise, I think that a braided thread is stronger, but given the age of the motorcycle, I think waxed linen thread is the most correct thread to use. I would go with a 6 strand waxed linen thread, And I would reapply some wax to the thread once in a while while sewing. Just to make sure that the thread don't start to fray. It sounds like a great project, I hope you'll share some pictures once it is done. You could try to ask a shoe repair business or saddle maker if you could buy 10-15 yards of linen thread, (if there is a one of anywere near where you live). That is my best guess for getting hold of something before Christmas. Brgds Jonas

I am helping my grandson build his Harley long-nose seat. At this point, he will be stitching by hand, two layers of veg-tanned leather with pre-drilled holes. I'm ready to order the thread. I'm thinking waxed four-ply linen .8 to 1mm? But I'm not finding it where I can get it sooner than next year. And not sure if that thread is the best in this situation. Any thoughts?

hey guys and girls so today i had a little time. set up a table to work on the sewing machines. i dated them. and looked them all over and see whats what. the dates are june 21 1932 for the 132k7 may 6 1952 for the 132k7 november 20 1941 132k6 sadly the broken one februari 6 1941 132k6 one of the k6 had a broken bed. after looking it over it has a broken axle to so i think it fell. that one wil be a parts machine for the other 3 and already helped the other ones with parts. ive been cleaning the 3 metal plates under the feet and left and right from them. i had a lovely afternoon thinkering and cleaning and getting to know them a bit. scavaging parts and putting them on the other 3 so complete them. they are gonna need a full back to metal painjob. as the paint is mostly gone on the beds. but i was expecting that. so im thinking colorchange i have 3 good bobbin winders. one has a broken lever maybe it can be replaced wil see. came with a big bobbin winder but i dont think its from these machines. and 2 grease or wax pots that go on top. i geusse for greasing or waxing the tread before sewing. gonna be fun projects

I just ordered some of those N52 magnets. Thanks for the tip on that.

Thanks, here is a video of me hand turning the wheel and the sound that it makes https://youtube.com/shorts/xqZXBxgeJSg the video should be uploaded by 1pm today

HS, along with the cold weather, my furnace broke down! Ok, it could have been worse - the furnace wasn't totally dead - but still, 14 C. in my bedroom is NOT something I'm okay with! I had so many blankets on the bed I could barely turn over! Luckily, my furnace guy was able to come and fix it without delay, and it was an easy fix. Speaking of BBQ's, my sister-in-law has only been able to round up one of her three children for Christmas dinner, which means we'll only be celebrating with 4 people. That's not enough to make the effort of cooking a turkey worthwhile, sooo my brother will be firing up the barby. Yep, steaks for Christmas!

Yes, do post some pictures. 🤩

👍

I've found so many web sites with claims of something being the best thing since sliced bread but then when you try it, you end up realizing it's not what was claimed. The Kinedyne motors have videos but they're not that easy to find. I've read so many articles for people looking for the "Holy Grail" of motors, just wanted to let folks know I think there finally is one - and glad you agree!

Fibersport, "... is the 4th motor I've bought chasing what I was looking for in a servo motor."... ...is exactly the dilemma most buyers face when not having the opportunity to test a unit, in our own applications, before purchase, myself included. After lots of research, I purchased my 1000SH models because they were the only motors I found that met multiple requirements, the most important being a wide range of speed adjustment with high torque at very low speeds without the need for speed reducers. I can sew 1/2" of veg tanned leather with ease and complete control at a regulated 2 stitches per second, when an error, a misplaced stitch, produces instant, expensive scrap. Or, I can sew three layers of heavy canvas as fast as I can get my Singer 7-33 to run, all with the same motor, and with the push of a button on the control unit conveniently placed within view and reach of my seated position. Thanks to another sewing forum member, like you, for having posting their story of sorting-out the best motor for them, I learned about the Kinedyne product line (and Ryan Neel.) And thanks to our moderators as well.

hows that AC, that will make life so much nicer. It's not to cold yet, we are getting some southern winds keeping it in the 40s, but the winds are hellish with 40 mph constant and over 70 mph gusts. in the last three days, 16 semi trucks have been blown over on the interstate here. The roads have been closed to light trucks under 50,000 lbs, so those who try to cheat also get a ticket after getting blown over, lol. The break will give you time to enjoy some of your summer, especially with a new AC. So I was working on my mocs yesterday, went to apply the nfo, took off the top, set it down, reached over it to grab a paper towel, knocked it over , glug glug, set it back up cussed like hell, reached over it to grab a paper towel, knocked it over, glug glug....... You can guess what happened next lol—going to buy more NFO today and paper towels. Say hi to Pops for me and have a great day!! Chuck

@Handstitched I can imagine you've had that machine for many years. Just been looking at mine today and it looks like it's been used a lot. All the paint is worn off where material has passed over it. The knee lifter mechanism is sloppy as hell due to wear. I think overall it's had quite a lot of use, yet despite that all the mechanical internals seem to have not much wear, and it's stitching great. These old industrial machines, especially the walking foot ones, are very dangerous. You start off getting one for a purpose but then you fall in love with them and want to get another LOL. Got to keep myself under control.

My best suggestion is that the needles are wrong. There have been an international shortage of the correct needles for those machines, and my guess is that the previous owner tried to buy and use some non original needles from another outsole stitcher. Where are you located in the world? perhaps some member near you have an original needle that you could try. I recently bought a small pack of needles from @Jennihaemae They are cheap and the correct needles. I think that her post got moved to "sold" due to the date (the posts will automatically be moved there after a certain time) You could try to send her a message. Brgds Jonas

@beefy i have in old Seiko stw 28-b, twin needle that I have had for many years, i have yet to find a manual for it, so I just use a consew 226 manual as a guide only instead . I contacted Seiko in Japan to find out the age of my machine using the serial number, turns out it's the same age as me......not telling 😅 HS

You're in it, the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. I'm seeing quite a few responses to your post.

Please elaborate on: sewing machine sub forum where it should get some action. Where can I find that forum? Thanks Appreciated.

If I could post pictures I would show you how to bring a 31k15 or 78-3 down to a nice speed for leather. I have done both. I used a flywheel / pulley from a junked small air compressor. Stuck them in the lathe and made the center hole fit over the hub on the hand wheel. and took enough off the fan type spokes to go over the pulley groove on the hand wheel belt grooves line up so no need to reposition the motor. No extra shafts or pulleys. just a longer belt. Loosen one set screw and pull off the big pulley and put on the original belt and you are back at full speed. All this with the original clutch motor.

Here is the comment that contains the video: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/36127-pfaff-545-safety-clutch-and-timing/page/2/#findComment-442262 It's the video that Adler 67 GK 373. Don't remember how far through

You can buy the spring steel rod in SS. Let's say 1/8" x 3' works great, but I just did one in Kydex, and it works great. Use a heat gun, mold it with your hands.