All Activity

I think that may work fairly well. Let's try it.

That's great! Ideally the safety clutch would trip before the belt slips, so on some cold October night you may want to investigate how to get the safety clutch to disengage under load. Figure 65 (page 26) shows a style of safety clutch that is unfamiliar to me. If yours differs from the figure 65, would you post a photo when you're back at it? And we'll help diagnose.

I think this solved the problem! Many, many thanks. I believe that what happened is that when it jammed (and I accidentally hit full throttle) the belt slipped. Now that I have aligned the "lower pulley" with "setting mark A" (as per page 26), it seems to be walking again. We have a heat wave here, and I don't feel like thoroughly testing it at the moment, but once I get around to it (which might take a week or so), I'll post here again, just to confirm...

Please critique this card holder I made. My first one using non-scrap leather.

Cool little lights. Are those add-ons or where they part of the machine? I'm over 50 and my eyes require more light so I'll have to figure something out.

Anyone able to tell me the age of these old lasting pliers I found? Found them here in Newfoundland in my brother in laws shed. Thanks

Congratulations on your retirement, Bruce. This sounds like a great service for the community.

Not much room either top to bottom or from the ram to the back

The Economy and Craftsman grade sides I've bought from the Tandy store look better. Sure, they sometimes have a place you need to work around, or a brand - but that is to be expected with those grades. What you have may have been grade A at one time, but after having been left out exposed to light and what appears to be folded, rolled backwards, and whatever else, it isn't anymore. I agree with what has been said - if they don't make it right for you, name them so we can avoid your pain.

I have several belts. One heavy duty belt to handle my bush gear (pouch, knife and tomahawk). One for my hip quiver for my horsebow and two "general duty" belts for daily use. One of them is going on 12 years now!

Very nice!

@Cinn I moved this out of saddlery to miscellaneous small items. Tacked onto a 15 year old thread, it was going to wither away, unnoticed. A picture of your item would be helpful.

After a rocky start to retirement I finally have most of that past me. I am nearly full time in the leather tool shop now. With that, my goal of being able to open up the leather tool sharpening service has come about. I still have the same 15 year old policy free resharpening for tools purchased from me. If you have other tools were not purchased from me or have not been a previous customer, I can take those tools for resharpening now. I have a new page on my website describing the services and cost estimates, plus a brochure/pricelist for downloading at https://brucejohnsonleather.com/sharpening-services . Thank you! - Bruce

Would it be okay if I post a Google Docs link instead of a PDF? That way I can keep it updated without reposting every time something get sold.

Only a bit, mostly with thin flexible leathers I use a wax block to punch thru to. It lubes the hole punch every time

if you cant find one used check with CL Machinenbau - they still make the shuttles for the 8346-20 https://www.cl-maschinenbau.com/de/leistungen/naehmaschinen.html But do not expect them to be cheap 😉

Can you roll the leather up as you go to get those middle holes?

I found that running the spindle cuts down on the punch getting stuck in the leather after the punch. On the Latigo, I also would lube the punch occasionally by running it down into a big, plain candle briefly.

Hi i want to buy Claes 200-2 Machine. But the seller says it is missing shuttle. Where can i buy a new shuttle preferably cheap. Diameter of socket is 22,7mm. Anyone know something?

The heel on the machine pedal is typically used to bring the needle up. It still stitches in the forward direction (about half a machine revolution) to bring the needle up. And it only works if you are both using a needle positioner and have stopped with the needle down. That is, you sew along, then release the pedal, and the machine keeps moving until it reaches needle-down, then stops. At that point, you tap the heel and the machine moves (forward) to needle-up. UPDATE Looking at the manual, I see these two options: P-I "Reverse After Pedal Heel Down" P-JJ "Setting of reversing angle" This sounds to me like it's supposed to run the motor in reverse for a finite distance upon heel-tap. I'm not sure what the use case would be. Settings Can you tell us your settings for the following menu items? P-8 : Single signal synchronizer P-I : Reverse after heel pedal down P-J : Setting of reverse angle P-K : Needle up after pedal heel down P-Z : Select machine code

How can I join your forum please. I am an 81 year old pensioner resoring a Singer 29K15 patcher.

First question. Is safety clutch disengaged? If not, it is out of time and you must time each hook separately. glenn

The end cam is worn. Replace it to take out the play. glenn

Hi, I am interested if it's still available.

I use glazed pigskin. Thin & stiff