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Hello everyone, I bought this machine to salvage and bring it back to sew again. I have multiple industrial sewing machines that are working well for me. I never attempted to fix a machine before. The maximum I have done was change motors from clutch to servo. So I am very excited about learning how to do it and get to expand my knowledge with your help guys. I stumbled upon this one on marketplace and I went to check it out. It was used at some point to sew in a mattress factory. As far as the person that sold it to me, he’s not sure what happened to it before it stopped working. It doesn’t have any feet or anything apart from the side plate. Unfortunately, it’s missing some parts, as per our discussion. I would like to be able to get the missing parts, preferably from Australia. It would be greatly appreciated, if you can help me to bring it back to life.

Sounds like it might be compounded neatsfoot oil, this is pure NF mixed with petroleum-based oils. It can be made cheaper because it's effectively diluting the NF with (relatively) cheap mineral oils. It will still work on leather but most leatherworkers prefer the pure stuff. If it's compounded it should mention it on the labei. A google search for P Paulin doesn't come up with anything.

@shoepatcher Do i needle to drill hole and thread with tap for screw to hold it or just it has tight fit , please advise....

You just took care it. Thanks for listing it here.

All the Tandy pattern packs. They've discontinued many of them. Not enough value to retire on but worth several $$$ each Any old leather how-to-do books, especially ones on carving

Looks like you hit the jackpot with that hoard. It's a goldmine of useful information. Thats the problem having lots of hobbies each with a lot of tools or "stuff" associated with each. I hope we'll all be around long enough to enjoy them for a while longer.

Very nice sheath. I like the tooling and that welt. What a nice gift.

He's a heavy equipment mechanic. They don't mind a scratch on the fender of a crane. Lol I will definitely keep this in mind! Didn't know there was such a a thing!

Beautiful work as always. Don’t let the keyboard warriors get you down the bridle is just a tool like any other, in the wrong or inexperienced hands it can cause problems. As you and Jonas already pointed out it is the riders responsibility to ensure proper tack and gear fitment. Keep up the good work.

The machine is sold. I dont know how to close the thread or mark this as sold in any other way.

Tandy has these 2 prong strap hooks. https://tandyleather.ca/collections/buckles/products/2-prong-strap-hook-solid-brass. The single prong "Mechanics Buckle" I got from https://springfieldleather.com/products/buckle-mechanics

You did!

I found one of my mistake and corrected.But there are still problems. I was trying to attach numarator disk(56032) without removing the screw rod(50338). First I removed 50338 from machine and then attached 56032 to it. After that insert them into machine ,then pin and spring. Now, numarator part is working but although I attached the reverse pedal connector(52409) to the fork type metal part(52408) when I try to start machine, reverse pedal lever drops down and stitch moves backwards. I think there is no suitable connection between reverse lever and numerator part. How can I do this?

Is there a groove under that collar to set the position of the collar?

Yes and I red that the Consew is actually a clone of the singer 153w102.

Thank you AlZilla

thank you I will! That is awesome specially when it comes down to the price. Thanks Glenn

Can you post photos and/or videos? I don't have a machine like this for comparison. Perhaps by seeing the actual parts someone will be able to suggest how to put them back together.

I thought it was just the outline shape of the shield as well but the image he sent as an example the top of the shield is "puckered" not really sure how else to articulate it...I'll try and upload the pictures he sent me....

Thank you, sorry if this was the wrong forum

Hi, I recently bought two cans of oil advertised as pure neatsfoot oil. However, I have worked with neatsfoot oil from other brands before and this one seems different in multiple ways. I had used starwax neatsfoot oil, wich was nearly odorless, and stayed liquid even at about 10 degrees celcius, and saphir brand, wich had a bit of a smell but not a suspicious one and remained liquid too. The oil I just bought is supposedly from a brand called P.Paulin, and not only does it have a very strong rancid smell, it does not stay liquid under Id say 20 degrees celcius. It is also cloudy while the other brands were transparent. is this normal? is it just a different neatsfoot oil? or is it neatsfoot oil mixed with a great deal of tallow and such greases? I dare not use it on any piece of leather, or even to lube machinery because of this horrid stench. did I get scammed? or did I just observe non-industrial neatsfoot oil for the first time?

Thanks for all the tips, folks. I appreciate it. I'm used to just dealing with work boots and combat boots. Those just needed a couple coats of mink oil over a week or so, then polish as necessary. This is the first item I need to even consider where dye should fit into the mix and will anything I do before or after might drastically change the outcome.

OK, Thanks. I'm still exploring and hadn't even seen that section yet.

@Northmount Great catch! When I worked at Toyota in KY I have to wear that type of belt for that exact reason. The ones we used had two prongs.

Do a search for mechanics belt. It doesn't have any exposed metal parts the can damage fenders, etc. while working, leaning against the car to reach what you are working on. Some people also refer to them for use by people that are allergic to metal as the hook is not exposed, not against skin.