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@Northmount Great catch! When I worked at Toyota in KY I have to wear that type of belt for that exact reason. The ones we used had two prongs.

Do a search for mechanics belt. It doesn't have any exposed metal parts the can damage fenders, etc. while working, leaning against the car to reach what you are working on. Some people also refer to them for use by people that are allergic to metal as the hook is not exposed, not against skin.

I looked around a bit and "Boston" seems to be the shape of the shield. I saw "Metro", "LA", "New York".

I moved your post to Patterns and Templates. Of all the different forums, this seems to be the best fit.

So this is a common thing?! Lmao 🤣

I moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.

Quick note on airbrushing with ANY type of oil. Use a respirator because oils, when atomized, can cause lung issues. When I dye it's oil, dye, buff, finish. I oil with neatsfoot oil and let it sit until the oil is absorbed. How long it sits depends on the thickness of the leather. This allows the dye to spread evenly when applied. I then dye and let it sit for a day so the dye has time to spread evenly. I then buff any excess dye off. I then add my finish, usually Resolene diluted with water 50/50 or a wax.

Thank you very much!! That's the way I usually do it, had no idea about prefixing a search with image. I learn something every day! Lol

That's not a work belt, it's a display belt. Beautifully done! When I first started making serious belts I made my brother-in-law a belt, it was one of my gun carry belts, but he wouldn't wear it unless he was going out somewhere nice. I told him to just wear it while he worked because I wanted it to be tested in the field. He has an excavating business so he's literary in the trenches all day. I finally just made him a second one and put some scratches in it so it didn't look as nice. lol

Another tip on searches. Most search engines have tabs under the search field. The first one is usually "All" this is the default tab, the second is usually "Images". Click on that an it'll show you the image search.

Hi, I recently bought two cans oil advertised as pure neatsfoot oil. However, I have worked with neatsfoot oil from other brands before and this one seems different in multiple ways. I had used starwax neatsfoot oil, wich was odorless, and stayed liquid even at about 10 degrees celcius, and saphir brand, wich had a bit of a smell but not a suspicious one and remained liquid too. The oil I just bought is supposedly from a brand called P.Paulin, and not only does it have a very strong rancid smell, it does not stay liquid under Id say 20 degrees celcius. It is also cloudy while the other brands were transparent. is this normal? is it just a different neatsfoot oil? or is it neatsfoot oil mixed with a great deal of tallow and such greases? I dare not use it on any piece of leather, or even to lube machinery because of this horrid stench. did I get scammed? or did I just observe non-industrial neatsfoot oil for the first time?

@shoepatcher Thanks Glenn. Was the 1877 Singer new and unique design known as the UFA?

There is a shop in Kansas City MO - Fitzwater Leather. He is an active duty firefighter and does leatherwork. He focuses on shields and has made tons of them around the country. Reach out to him. He would be happy to help, if he has what you need.

Nicely done. I had the same phenomenon occur when I made a belt for my dad. He only wears it for special occasions. That is sharp. Hope he wears it more than just on Sundays.

One of my first projects was a new belt for our mechanic at work. He asked me to make him a new work belt when I first got into this hobby. He's also an avid hunter, so I came up with this. He absolutely loved it but the "problem" is he won't wear it to work because he claims it's too fancy. It became his hunting/Sunday dress belt. Fast forward over a year, Miller still needs a new work belt, and we both forgot all about it. I guess that old worn out one wasn't so worn out! As a surprise, I just finished up a "less fancy" belt for him to wear to work. I tried a new dye technique I read about, make a new belt look old.

Thanks Dwight! I've become pay-a-zon dependant and forgot about eBay. I just ordered one. 👍🏿

@Dwight Hi Dwight, Yes sir, I could definitely work from a pattern like that. If you sent me a plastic cutout of the buckle you had in mind, I could use it to build the mold and cast it in brass. Western-style buckles are a bit bigger and often carry more detail, but that’s all part of the fun. I’d just want to know how heavy-duty you’d like it, and whether you prefer a polished finish or to let the brass age naturally. Sending over a physical template should be simple — a flat plastic piece in a padded envelope can usually be mailed to Kenya for around $20 or so. Once I see the pattern or a picture of the buckle you have in mind, I’ll be able to give you a clear idea of cost and the best way to approach it. If you’d prefer to share details more directly, feel free to message me here or reach me through my site at origibelts.com Thanks for the idea — projects like this are what keep the foundry interesting. May God bless, John G. Origibelts – near Nairobi, Kenya

My way would be: i) Oil ii) Dye iii) Oil What I would do is: i) oil the leather as evenly as possible and let it rest for 24 hrs or so to get absorbed evenly. ii) Mix the dye with 50 % thinner and 50 % dye as a good starting point. I use 99% Rubbing Alcohol with Fiebing's Dye iii) Airbrush the dye on in thin coats to get an even coating and let sit for 24 hrs. iv) Oil again Note: i) I am not sure how mink oil will work as I don't use it so you should experiment on some scrape first. ii) If you have some black dye and want to darken the Angelus Ox Blood up a shape or two try adding about 2 to 5 % Black to the dye mix before adding thinner. Once again experiment on some scrape first. kgg

The picture is actually a test piece. I started by trying to get the color right and I realised I was skipping a step. I do have an airbrush that I can use for dying the main bag. I'll dig it out and test settings to get decent coverage. So, if I'm understanding correctly, after the cleaning steps: Dye, Mink Oil, Wax? Or Mink Oil, Dye, Wax? Letting the whole thing rest in between thin coats for at least a day each. I know that my combo of stuff may/may not be the perfect recipe but it's what I'm most familiar with and what I have on hand.

I had to look twice to see if you actually installed a crank or pulley on the nose band. Like usual Tom, your work is flawless. Keep posting for us "want to be's". Thumbs up. Ron

Same here lol. But my original question was about making the, as it was described to me as a "boston style" shield not necessarily a shield from Boston. Personally I didn't know there were different styles

I did not know about starting with "image". I always just go to https://images.google.com/ Learned a new trick. Easier to just start with "image".

I agree the only thing I do different is I use 100 % pure organic JOJOBA oil first then dye then re-oil. I have gotten away from using a dabber, sponge, brush and dipping for the dying process and have converted to airbrushing when dying. I am also experimenting with airbrushing the JOJOBA oil. You may have some success with heating the Red shoe polish with a hair dryer to get it to suck into the leather and then apply the mink oil. I haven't tried this myself so I don't know if it will work. kgg

Consew 227 parts are copies of Singer 153 parts. Should be interchangeable. glenn

Patent Elastic was the early name for the Claes I believe. They started in 1869. There have been about 15 plus manufactured of the shoepatcher with the early design like you see in front of you. Singer came out with a shoepatcher in 1877 and their design was new and unique. Adler came out with the 30 class in 1900 which was a copy of the UFA/ 29 class. Adler had an earlier design like the old shoepatchers which was a 29 class. I have one. Bradbury had a few shoepatcher designs starting in 1872. glenn