All Activity

Where should I expect to see oil coming out at the left end of the main shaft? What does it feed oil to...the needle bar crank rod? Or the thread take-up crank shaft assembly? I expect there are some pieces that are to be oiled manually...just not sure which ones. This diagram shows the relevant pieces. Supposedly you rotate part #32 180 degrees to go from "minimum oil" to "maximum oil". Diagram is from page 3 of this juki ddl-8700 parst list: https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_j/download_j/manual_j/ddl8700/menu/ddl8700/pdf/partslist.pdf

Tried it again with no joy. Then it occurred to me that the braking system must come into this. If I'm stitching slowly the brake is immediate and the needle stops wherever it happens to be in the cycle. If I go fast it wil stop in the down position ( where I want it) most of the time.

Well, long story. I purchased a plains boot patern from tandy thinking I could alter the design to fit my liking. Basicly a pair of booties to wear inside my tent when camping in deep snow. I altered the pattern so they would be triple warm for my aging feet. I wear a size 10 logger but knowing I would be using bark tanned wool inside for insulation I decided size 12 would work. It didnt. They were very tight... So... I gave them to my gdaughter. SHE LOVES THEM!!! I guess Ill have to try again but go larger yet to fit my feet? anyhow, this is the pattern and these are the booties I made. Bark tanned inside the lower portion and long hair wool on top . I bet her feet stay warm?

Ah well, appreciate the help everyone, thanks. Looks like it's all down to the Ebay seller now, but still no response after 2 days. If they don't respond I'll put a refund request in to Ebay for goods not as described. It does say in the sellers description that a needle positioner can be added. I've messed around with electronics and programming microcontrollers here and there, so I could always devise my own interface with an off the shelf needle positioner. Would be an interesting little project but I should really be concentrating on more important things LOL.

Grab all the free ones from tandy that you can, there used to also be a leathercrafting book link on piratebay, not sure if it's still available or seeded anymore. Otherwise all the stohlman books are excellent, though some more so than others; tandy is usually the cheapest price, though I've also bought them on ebay for a pretty cheap price.

First photo it's level with the needle plate, just needs a washer or two to keep it there. Or am I missing something else that I can't see?

Google is still a good search to use. Use site: leatherworker.net 132k6 This restricts the search to leatherworker. Add whatever search parameters you want to the search string. Google has larger servers, faster and better indexed.

@Tommy1wide2high a google search works best; try it for the item but add 'leatherworker.net' to it and it will find pages on here

Here's a start. 373 posts that contain 132K6. You could rerun the search and add "manual". https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?&q=132k6&search_and_or=or Welcome aboard!

Greetings, I seem to be at a loss here. I've tried to search for information and fourms on the Singer 132 K6 but don't fully understand the program. Forgive me if this is the wrong approach and direct me to the propper area please. I am looking for parts/owners manual for my 132K6 and any conversations that have happened already. I have, in the past as a guest, read many useful fourms when I was getting to know my 31-20 but that was thru a google search. Now that I am a member I can't seem to navigate this system. Please advise, thank you. Tommy1wide2high

Two BBC news stories 1. a female saddler in Ulster is within this longer story; https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cx2gl642rpzo 2. A young Scottish cobbler in this video new story; https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/videos/c9qe825q35zo

In my experience edge paint will accentuate the unevenness of a non-sanded edge. It needs to go on an almost perfect edge I sometimes use an edger before construction but most usually after construction

The "fiberglass" piece was removable. I pulled it out carefully. The jet was clogged, but shoving a sewing pin through it cleared the hole. In this photo we have: (left) Oil jet (middle) The clog. (silicone-like texture) (right) The "fiberglass" piece. (filter?) Am hoping that after reassembly (without the silicone-like clog) that it will weep a few oily tears for the hook.

I guess it’s a related question… Will edge paint (such as EcoFlo Edge Flex) mask my mistakes, or will it make them more obvious? Never used an edge paint before. I forget why I didn’t bevel the panels or gusset of the bag first, but I’m already ~75% assembled, and don’t feel like cutting the stitches loose. I’ll definitely be sanding, but if there’s a faster way to the finish line (besides do it right the first time), then I’m all ears. — AZR

Removed the hook This brass screw was screwed into the end of the hook shaft. The near end has a tiny hole in it, like a carburetor jet. The far end is not brass...rather looks more like fiberglass. Perhaps it is porous? After washing the brass screw in soap and water, I tried blowing through it. Nothing seemed to come out.

In the Stitchman Servo Motor: The Missing Manual Specifically this part:

I only sand down edges when absolutely necessary. I've only been doing it for the last five years or so, after I learnt on here that leather could be sanded. I use whatever grade is needed to do the job; a 60 or 80 to really remove and level a bad cut to 600 grade for just a tidy-up before slicking

Which P-15 did you mean? This one? Or this one?

For wallets and cases I use plumbers aluminium insulating tape. Its about 0.4mm thick

What settings did you try for P-15 (Needle Detection Mode)?

After reading this thread I thought I'd have another go. Another waste of time. Tried every setting with the same results. Everything else works fine except the needle position. No matter what the setting, every time I stop the needle is in a different position,sometimes up - sometimes down and never up/down in the same place either. It goes slow enough that it's more of an irritation than a pain but short of ripping out the speed reducer and replacing the handwheel and motor pulleys, I'll live with it.

Part 2 – Measuring Your Dog This part is much more hands-on. You will see photos and graphics and get an explanation for every single measurement, so you can fully understand what you are measuring—and why it matters. Before we start, I want to introduce the dog who will be the model for all graphics and pictures in this guide. Meet Tova This is Tova. She is almost three years old and an English Setter mix from Tuscany, Italy. I got her when she was imported to Germany at six months of age. Since then, we’ve been a team—chaotic, playful, and always on the lookout for an adventure. When I got her, I already had years of experience with dogs and their equipment. Still, I quickly realised that I didn’t know everything. It started with collars and ended with constantly ill-fitting harnesses. The harnesses she wore caused discomfort over time, especially for her long back—and that was on me. They were always some unfortunate mix of too large in one place and too small in another, and I didn’t spot the problem early enough. She is the reason I want to do better. So, how do we actually do better? By measuring our dogs correctly. General Measuring Rules - Take each measurement three times - Let your dog move a few steps between measuring rounds - Later, before cutting leather, check each strap length three times - Precision matters. Your dog will thank you. What You’ll Need Chalk (as soft as possible) or any non-toxic, non-permanent marker that shows on fur A flexible tape measure Something to write on Something to write with What We Are Going to Measure Neck circumference (in front of the sternum, below collar position) Elbow to floor Elbow to elbow Distance between the shoulder blades Torso circumference (widest part of the ribcage) Distance from chest to torso Distance from neck to widest part of the ribcage Before Measuring: Position and Anatomy Before taking any measurements, we need to understand the anatomy of the individual dog in front of us. Your dog should stand directly in front of you. I was able to measure Tova on my own, but if your dog is more active, get someone to help hold them calmly. Make sure: all four paws are on the ground the paws are as parallel as possible the dog stands “closed” (equestrians know exactly what I mean) Now grab your chalk—and a good amount of patience. Marking Anatomical Landmarks (This Is the Key Step) 1. Shoulder Line First, locate the shoulder and draw a line along it. In my photos this may be hard to see because Tova has her winter coat and the chalk didn’t show as well as I hoped. If you’re unsure what to look for, Figure 1 will help. Repeat this on both sides, then connect the lines across the neck and chest. 2. Shoulder Blade Positions (Static and Dynamic) Next, locate the shoulder blades and mark each side with a dot or cross. Now lift one front paw as high as your dog normally lifts it while walking. Feel for the shoulder blade again and mark its new position in the same way. This shows you how much the shoulder blade actually moves. 3. Elbow Movement Zone With the paw still lifted, locate the elbow and draw a vertical line marking its range. Repeat this for both sides. 4. Widest Part of the Ribcage Now locate the widest part of the ribcage. Some companies recommend measuring “one hand behind the elbow.” From observing different conformations, I’ve found that this rule of thumb does not consistently hold true. Instead, visually and manually identify the widest point and mark it with a vertical line on both sides. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ At this point, your dog will look like a child discovered abstract art. Now is also a good moment to calmly reassure your partner or other dog owners or concerned bystanders, that yes—you are completely fine. These chalk lines are our guides. They show us where movement happens and where straps must not interfere. Our motto here is very much work smarter, not harder—especially if your dog is not the calmest individual. Taking the Actual Measurements 1. Neck Circumference Using the shoulder line you drew earlier, measure above this line and around the neck, between the chalk line and the collar position. The tape should sit flat You should be able to slide at least one finger underneath If this measurement does not fit over your dog’s collar, that is not a problem. This will make sense later when we translate measurements into design. 2. Torso Circumference (Widest Ribcage Point) Use the vertical chalk lines marking the widest ribcage point as your guide. Measure all the way around the torso. Keep the tape level and as vertical as possible Now cross-check with the elbow movement lines: there should be at least two finger widths between the torso strap position and the elbow movement zone If not, move the measurement slightly backward. Elbow clearance is non-negotiable. 3. Distance Between the Shoulder Blades Measure the distance between the dynamic shoulder blade markings (the lifted-paw positions). This measurement tells you how wide the dorsal (back) strap is allowed to be. In Tova’s case, I ended up with less than one inch of usable space during movement. This means: the strap must be narrow, padding must be minimal and carefully planned Ignoring this leads to direct scapular restriction. 4. Distance from Chest to Torso (Between the Front Legs) Measure from the chest/sternum area back to the widest ribcage point between the front legs. This measurement defines how long the chest strap is allowed to be without drifting into the elbow movement zone. Measurements That Seem Odd—but Matter a Lot 5. Elbow to Floor Measure from the lowest point of the elbow straight down to the floor. This measurement tells us: how low a chest or Y-strap may sit where vertical restriction begins whether a harness design risks interfering with stride extension This is especially important for chest strap and Y-harness designs as this measure give us an overview of the swing radius of the dog. 6. Elbow to Elbow Measure horizontally from one elbow to the other. This measurement defines: how wide a chest strap or Y-front can be how much lateral freedom the forelimbs need Too narrow causes pressure and rubbing. Too wide pushes straps into the shoulder joint. Now take these measurements another two times until you have 3 measures for each measurement point. Caption: This is written in german and says Neck, Elbow, Torso, Chest, Elbow to Elbow, Back ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Final Note for This Part If a strap crosses a chalk movement zone, it will interfere with movement—no matter how well it “fits” on paper. Measurements are not just numbers. They are boundaries defined by anatomy and motion. In the next part, we’ll use these exact measurements to: choose the appropriate harness type and translate them into a functional design This is where everything starts to come together.

I am currently doing a study on the hertz of car key fereday box and bag carry and finding out that there are different frequencies regarding both. So, I don't know what others are using for key pouches.

Haven't tried kangaroo hides before. Does anyone know what kind of friction it would add, to try to get these from north of the border? And what the HECK do I make with a kangaroo hide of ANY colour ? Thanks for thinking of us here, @Ferg I hope you can easily find new homes for the items you want to clear out.

there are at least two sizes of 4 wire plugs. bought the wrong one first. this instruction sheet may help: Servo Motor Technician User Manual(v3.7 L-Type 4-Bar for ShuangZheng).pdf