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The KC carving was my first project piece, GB is my second. I have done some practice pieces on scrap but these are actually intended to be full pieces. I started using a regular cheap swivel knife and could not get the hang of swiveling with the barrel. I went ahead and got a DW yokeless and it has helped immensely. All of my knife work has improved as I go and I like seeing the progress with the same pattern.

If you want a 3D printed Colt 1911 dummy gun, you can download the STL files from Thingiverse for free and print it yourself.

One of the first ones I did was an old Bible. I used 5/6 oz. leather for it. I did some tooling on it as well. It is somewhere between a soft and hard cover.

To All, thank you so much for your help. I asked a manual from Hightex EU and they sent me the attached leaflet (CB7243 is the other name of CB243)... Also, I took pictures and made videos of my machine, I hope it will cover all the pics you asked for, but in case not, I will take some more ! In order to ease overview of the machine, I did an album : https://photos.app.goo.gl/zaPGY3vKViruLiBZ9 7243.pdf

"That makes sense about dyeing the shield for black. I did burnish the edges to make it clean and last longer one thing I’m curious about is for other shields that are white or red for painting if there is ways to protect it better. " You could use Saddle-Lac spray lacquer. It's pricey, but lasts a long time.

Beautiful design and execution.

That's a good find. I screenshotted the page so when it goes away, people have some idea what we were talking about way back in '25. And lament the good old days.

This is the one I bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/396977964819 I haven't started on the holster yet, so I can't say how it does wet forming, but just looking it's really well made. No "flash" or seams to contend with. Ready to use as is for our purpose. When I need another dummy gun I'll definitely look up this brand.

@BigBore your holsters/rigs look amazing. I am looking for custom chest rig and belt slide for hunting with my Smith & Wesson 350 Legend X-frame revolver. I have a Trijicon RMR optic mounted to the firearm using a Jack WEIGAND Smith Wesson K,L,N,X Frame Revolver Direct Attachment MINI MICRO Red Dot Mount. Is this something you are interesting in making and, if so, how can I contact you? Best regards, Mike L

That looks sharp chuck!!

You'll need to decide what thread size you want, and then get needles big enough for the thread and material. See AlZilla's links:

Ta, I'll give it a try.

Wipe some vaseline on the screw threads, a fairly heavy coat. That'll stop the cap sticking

I suspect most (if not all) solvent contact cements are pretty much the same formulation. I have started adding a bit of Xylene to mine occasionally if it starts thickening in the can, seems to work ok. I'm currently using Sika brand but I have a can of Selley's for when that runs out. I was going to pour it into a smaller container but haven't bothered, instead I glued one of those cheap "acid brushes" into the lid to use as an applicator, it's working ok so far. The down side to the Sika is it has a screw cap and a couple of times it got stuck!

I don't want this to seem political or racist but it's the truth and the only way to answer Chuck's question - immigration is out-of-control here and there are certain demographics that are the problem (primarily from Africa), the kids form gangs and their weapon of choice is the machete. There have been deaths and injuries as a result and attacks in shopping centres. The government answer is to ban machetes and swords and carrying a pocket knife without a valid reason is also an offense (has been for a while). Axes aren't banned - yet - give them time. So, back to the post, a machete is actually a very useful tool in the garden, handier than an axe due to it's light weight and thin blade. I had to replace the handle on mine and it looks very much like Chuck's. That should serve you well for many years.

I popped the end off my 441 clone and it's pretty easy to see which part is pushing the shuttle just by jiggling the hand wheel. The diagrams above make it look like an easy adjustment.

Howdy, folks. I am looking to re-bind some books: replace old covers with tilled leather covers. I see lots of info on thin leathers (1-2 oz) either as a soft cover or turning it into a hardback book using billboards. Has anyone had success in using tooled leather (4-5 oz)?any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I haven't found many parts on a sewing machine that bend. That is, most parts on my sewing machines seem to be a very hard material that is likely to have fracture as its failure mechanism, not plastic deformation.

An internet search for juki 243 parts manual led to this: https://www.jukisewingmachines.co.uk/pub/media/productfileupload/j/u/juki_tnu243_parts_book.pdf On pages 11 and 12 shows the hook driving shaft (part #10), the left end of which is the shuttle driver.

KDB... Did you get this gun mold? If so, how is it? I would like to order one, if you say it is good quality.

Maybe 3D print

I read through that section and wasn't sure, either. I'll bet Friquant or Constabulary will know. I saw the post that seems to show a little back and forth movement for the feed dog. Maybe that will help get you in the ballpark. If I'm visualizing it right, it seems like moving the needle away from the hook would move it even closer to the feed dog hole. It'll be interesting to see the final outcome.

YUM! I love pork too. Had some very nice thick-cut bacon for lunch!

Hello Shiny, I only have experience with furr on horse tack and there it was always a blessing if it was detachable. Sweat is not necessarily that easy to just brush out off that stuff. In BDSM I would assume that some bodily fluids could possibly touch the furr, so I personally would opt for something to attach and detattch, also as you can get a two in one in that case and can wash the furr, if needed. I would maybe go with a solution that includes velcro in the leather colour so the attachment loops are not too obvious and you can easily change the look. Paddingwise I can recommend, again for comfort and under the aspect of cleaning the cuffs/harness, 6mm EVA/ Plastazote and sheep/goat leather (0.8mm). In my experience sheep is incredibly smooth and has little to no cracks in itself. I buy mine from Italy (buyleatheronline) for as little as 24 euros, when I'm not too picky about the colour. It's very soft and a breezer to wipe down, when my dogs decided to take their collars out for a mudbath, plus it looks super shiny and luxurious. We got a lot of comments on the collars lately. If you combine that with a detachable furr I think there is no way to get it more comfortable. Hope my ideas helped a bit. Best Tove

Howdy I'm starting to experiment with leather BDSM gear, primarily right now with wrist cuffs. What kind of padding do you use? Foam? Fur? Im looking for a more industrial look than exposed sheepsfur gives, and while rabbit fur seems nice, im looking for just a bit more padding for comfort. Ive heard of issues with camping foam mats as they rot over time. as well. So looking for advice from the wise