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I think they're too big for ring clamps, judging by their size against the strap cutters

here is the old adjustment manual Pfaff 1245 Adjustment 89_09.pdf and parts list Pfaff 1245 Parts 85_07.pdf actually I gave you up the relevant information for the old 1245. If you are unsure which subclass you have please make a photo of the shield with class / subclass and share it here. It's kind of hard guessing things with so little information from your side :))))

Thanks! Yes it certainly was 😅 machines are intimidating to me still but I understand the need for them more now!

Very sharp. I really like how you designed this to attach with the existing bolts on the windscreen. Nicely done.

Floral carvings are timeless. Beautiful work.

These are ring clamps, normally used by jewelers to hold rings and other items tight while working on them. Amazon.com: KooingTech Ring Clamp, Wire Wrapping Tools, Jewelry Clamp Suitable for Gripping and Fixing Various Small and Delicate Components

if you have a well-worn belt the curve is there for you to copy.

Measure it(the needle) & let us know how long it is.135x16,16 is approx 1& 3/4" long 190 is almost 2"

that's a very good idea, and i tried to do that very thing, the only problem is that my pfaff 1245 is from the early 90's and i have tried to find the manual for it, or even the model number and i just can't find it, so i have no idea what needle the machine takes. i pulled the needle off the machine and it says "organ 22" but i don't know what that means.

I did wonder ....

Dwight, Thank you for this tip. I will certainly give it a try Sir. May God Bless you too.

Cheers

No I'm just taking off the shelf WISS 22W shears and reshaping them into leather shears based on the WISS #8 Belt Shear geometry. I might make some from older better WISS 22W's but would charge a little more for those. Making them from scratch would be an insane task.

Just for info, certain old casting Pfaff 1245 are using needle system 190. OP will have to check his machine, which subtype is and if it was maybe adapted for something else. My Pfaff 1245/48 that I bought used came with needles of the system 134. At that time the needle bar in the lowest position was pressing down on the presser foot if it was raised. I changed it to 134-35 as I had them at the time and it is just barely long enough that the parts are not touching.

I received a buttload of tools and hardware from a gentleman who taught leatherwork at a local high school in the 70s+ he spent over 35yrs teaching. These wooden tools were in the same drawer as some strap cutters. First thought is clamps but they don’t work intuitively like that so figured someone here might be able to shed some light.

Easiest way to make a bandolier for across the shoulder is cut straight strap the width you need it. Overlap the ends but at a 90 degree to each other. By doing this it creates a curve. The overlapped ends hang at the bottom.

See the update I wrote in my earlier comments, up the page.

You're welcome!

title Yes It Works Thank You

I think they can go 10,000 miles, er stitches between oil changes! ;-)

Try it now

Full STOP! The needle you listed is a "System" 190 profile, and a number (width of the business end) 22. The System 190 is an extra long needle. It is only recommended for higher than standard lift, mainly on walking foot machines. The reason is that the higher capacity of the foot or feet to lift and function properly would be too high for a shorter needle to clear the top of the lifted foot or feet. A standard walking foot machine might be able to sew up to 3/8 inch of compressible material. If you stuff 1/2 inch under the feet and hack them to lift higher up, the bottom of the needle bar will make hard contact with the raised inner or outer foot and something will give or break. So, some machines are already setup to sew thicker than standard and have their needle bar raised up high enough to clear the feet in their highest working position. Many are made to use the longer System 190 needle in the needle bar. Since the distance is longer from top to the eye, these needles can still go down far enough for a loop to form at the eye of the needle and the hook to pick it off. Note, that these longer needles are more fragile in smaller sizes (diameters) and are more likely to get deflected and break that a shorter needle of the same "size." Get the manual for that machine and compare the full model number to whatever is shown in the manual for the factory needle system. The 22 part relates to a business end outside diameter of 0.718 mm. Due to the rib channel one one side and the cutout around the eye side, the actual diameter changes. No matter its geometry, a #22 needle is the minimum size required to sew with #138 (Tex 135) bonded thread on the top and bottom when you sew into soft to medium temper materials, and soft chap or garment leather. The thread itself has an outside diameter of about .414 mm. When you sew on a standard lockstitch machine, the top thread captures the bobbin thread and folds around it as it draws it up into the material. We refer to this lock configuration as a "knot." The knot is about twice the diameter of the individual top and bottom threads. Veg-tan leather is less pliable than chrome-tan chap and garment leather and its extra density means that you'll probably need a needle one number larger for the same thread sizes. Thus, to get the "knots" pulled well into the leather, you'll need a #23 needle with #138 bonded thread. One parameter that hasn't been mentioned is the top mounting diameter of the part that goes up into the needle bar hole. It must be a good fit; not too loose and definitely not wider than the hole. You should be able to insert and remove a needle with finger pressure alone. It should not wobble when all the way up and tightened down with the needle bar set screw. Many modern era walking foot machines take a 2 mm diameter top needle shank. Some ancient machines only took 1.5 or some random number smaller than 2.0 mm.

Promise 😉

I'd have to enable "can post html" for the member group, which looks like a huge security issue. I have it enabled for the mods and contributing members because they are unlikely to do malicious things with HTML. I can put you in that group if you promise not to break anything. hahahaha