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That's a beauty, love it.

For me, something tooled by hand looks so much better, and here is why I think that when you carve something by hand, you create depth with beveling, and stamping creates that certain color and shaded look that can't be replicated with a machine. Also, working a piece of leather by hand, each Artisan develops and establishes a style of their own, a style of work that people recognize. Laser engraving is okay on hats and patches, but not on something of high quality. IMHO

My recent builds have been with Timberline, Double L, and Swanke. I've been happy with all of them, but there are differences in cost and quality. Depends on what you want. Randy

Customer just picked up this holster. His son had me make him one a few years ago for a .41 magnum and he wanted one similar to it for his 22 lr. I have a love hate with white thread, if you don't die and finish before stitching it takes on the color of the die. In this case with it being lined I needed to sew the top edge before assembly so I did without it being died and paid the price when the top stitches disappeared in the die. White edge stitches still popped pretty good. He is tickled with it, I was able to use my 3-D printer to print his initials rather than hand cut them. The 3-D stamp is much cleaner and easier.

A new to me Pfaff double needle 346-H2. Won't pick up the bobbin thread. Ya, I've tried moving the rotary hook closer to the needle scarf. Used the needle bar clamp and gauge. (1.8mm). finally called in a repair guy from the local sewing machine shop that serviced industrial machines. No joy, couldn't "fix" it. There has got to be something I'm missing here. The repairer say the hooks are probably worn out? No, it has never sewn for me. Just now starting to get it recommissioned after picking it up a couple years ago. . SOOOO... what am I missing? OR, anyone know of a replacement part for these rotary hooks? I can't find any info on interchangeable parts/modern made. Are any Pfaff single needle machine parts interchangeable? I found a resource that suggests that the 335 machine shares many parts with the 346, such as rotary hooks. Can someone confirm this?

If I ever make a "real" one it'll be wider with two layers and glued and stitched. These are just to hold my trousers up and stop me wondering which pair of trousers I left my one belt on last.

So, I want to get into wallet making. My plan is an 8 oz veg tan outside that I tool. What is a good cheap (Not Genuine leather) thin leather to cut the individual card pockets and interior of the wallet out of. Want thin so the wallet can close easily. Basically I don't understand all the leather cuts and terms. What's the cheap thin cut of chrome tan, or is there something better I should use? (asking all you wallet makers out there.)

Wow, that's cool, all this just from the question, what do you call it? It is fun, though, thanks Johanna.

I got one of these that count out from the center. It's very useful a times.

Doc, did you have a hard time with the welt being so thick that it was hard to keep the stitching straight on both sides?

Really, it was the only way I could see to make that holster do what the guy wanted it to do. And, like Doc said, the gun does rest nicely on that thick edge. The problem with that thick of a welt is the stitching keeping the holes perfect through that much leather. I did it on the second one. should have taken some pictures, but I didn't think to at the time. It was just a little nothing holster, but at the same time, pretty cool.

@S. Kaplan Sewing Machine, I moved your post to the For Sale area. Please review the rules here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ and be sure you're in compliance. I think the only thing we need is a pic or two posted to your ad. I see a large attachment. Many, including myself, just aren't going to download it. Typically if you resize a couple of pictures to be 800 pixels in the longest dimension, that's more than adequate for downstream viewers, even on the fringes of the internet. You can just add a couple of pictures as a reply since the edit time on your post isn't that long. Thanks for posting and good luck with your sale.

Forgive the picture. This is the only Antique stain I have messed with. (like I said I just started leather craft this month.) So far I have been limited to what remnants they had available to Hobby Lobby and buying a shoulder in any color that I cant see before purchasing is intimidating to me. Thank you all for the advice.

Two mostly complete heads on pedestals, three heads missing parts off pedestals and one additional pedestal, along with five large drawers containing many new parts. Can be inspected in Newark, NJ. Best offer over $ 3500.00 takes the lot. Will pack for truck shipment, add $ 300.00 kaplansew@gmail.com drive-download-20250828T164718Z-1-001.zipdrive-download-20250828T164718Z-1-001.zip

Thank you, Northmount!

They are decent enough, better then some I have seen for sale. Suggestion: Add a stitch line along the edge to help reduce stretching. kgg

The water based with one coat is Very interesting. The problem with the Aquilim 315 is the cost. It is about 1.6 times the cost of a heavy duty clear contact cement from your local hardware store. kgg

The bottom one just needed a little messing and re dying so I only had to do two. Still waiting for some cord to finish my corset hat.

I would be interested in seeing the belts. Me I have two belts. A store bought "genuine" leather black dress belt which I figure I have worn maybe a dozen times in the last 8 years and my daily 13 oz medium brown chrome tan. kgg

I find getting chrome tan to another colour can be a challenge. There are a lot of factors, who the manufacturer of the leather was, the original dying process, the colour you are trying to change, who the manufacturer of the dye is, etc. I have some medium brown pre-dyed 6 1/2 oz chrome tan that I want to redye to a colour close to Oxblood. I have experimented with a few cutoffs with different colours (rouge, wine and oxblood), and dye from three manufacturers. What I finally settle on was oiling first with Promise 100% Pure Organic Jojoba Oil, leaving it for 24 hours to soak in, then wiping the excess oil off and then applying Fiebings Oxblood dye so far is giving me a decent result. kgg

That was plan B for me. I was hoping someone had some sort of magical chart figured out. This dye, with this chrome tan sort of thing. Thank you.

That's why in my "wardrobe" . . . there are no less than 8 or 9 belts. Generally speaking . . . I wear the one I have on . . . and have for over 20 years . . . will probably kick the bucket some day and it will still be serviceable. But that's OK . . . pass it on to someone who needs one. May God bless, Dwight

Good luck!!

After years of taking my one belt from one pair of trousers to use on another pair, bearing in mind what I do I finally got disgusted enough with myself to start on three more. Bearing in mind that my world is practical and not for the benefit of others, it will just be one layer and rivets so I should be finished by the end of today.