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Hello everyone I wanna design and make a Backpack. While I have come quite far with the design I dont quite know how to make the sides of my design in a way that is durable. The back is fully made out of veg tan buffalo ginde (4mm thick) I drew a model of my bag on my pc to upload. The 3 drawings are from the side, top down and from the front. The Idea is having the outside wall about 3 cm inwards and then have a kind of net from paracord between the two sides. That way stuff can be stored behind the net. I hope it makes at least a litte sense. How can I implement this without the paracord slowly riping the leather over time? The backpack is supposed to be durable and last many many years. Thanks in advance for every answer.

No problem. I've had one for about 5 years. kgg

thanks, did not know what to look for 😉

Temu: https://www.temu.com/ca/1pc-nut--thread-checker-inch-metric-26-male-female-gauges-stainless-steel-14-inch-12-metric-thread-checker-g-601099524615655.html?_oak_mp_inf=EOfbjp2m1ogBGiA5ZWNhMmYwZDdjNzU0NDAzOTViNDEwNjIyZTM1MWViZCDflrjLwTM%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2F1bd1d6e014704d792beadf80a72c5b49.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2025093704&refer_page_sn=10032&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTY4OQ&_oak_gallery_order=2093112306%2C160354140%2C2045537314%2C271545300%2C1416541352&search_key=nut and bolt thread checker&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1769953176822_anhrd4lta2&_x_sessn_id=3raljzhp3j Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009944813944.html?algo_pvid=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421&algo_exp_id=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421-6&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"7"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!CAD!28.44!22.09!!!142.79!110.89!%402101c44f17699531248835014ee51d!12000050647125799!sea!CA!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A18b3922%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197831932&curPageLogUid=ItEaF9KDGd9H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005009944813944|_p_origin_prod%3A kgg

Posting an AliExpress link may help 😉

Knurled screw for the outer presser foot tensioning on a 1980s Pfaff 1245 is an M5-1.0 thread. That metric size doesn't exist in the United States. I bought a machine used and that part was missing. Interesting rabbit hole of thread pitch exploration. Found an original one on ebay from Poland but they refused to ship due to tariffs. Found a 10-24 knurled screw on amazon that works for the purpose, only thing that was close in size. Point being, standard SAE and Metric was not always used by machine manufacturers worldwide.

Maybe the moderator will delete this post. The book has sold.

Nice job Dwight!

That is great work!

I've been to Bergen. Flew into Oslo and took a train to Bergen where I spent 2 days before we boarded a ferry for a scientific conference in a beautiful fijord setting. The conference honored a well known (to us) deceased Norweigan scientist who had trained a legion of scientists in the field of DNA repair. The hide glue produces good results with less work (no sanding once the edges are leveled). The edge readily accepts wax or acrylic finishes that I am testing out for a weatherproof finish.

Here is a great article on what machine or machines you will need depending on what you want to sew. In a nutshell if you are doing: i) Belts and bags a cylinder arm machine similar to the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 or clones would be a good choice with a flatbed attachment. ii) Holsters you will need a Class 441 similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone. What is your budget??? kgg

Nice indeed!! I like the hidden slots.

Hi Tove, Thanks for the nice words 🙂 That sounds like some very plausible causes you mention, I think that the situation in Denmark is pretty similar as in Germany, with very few people being able to invest 6-10.000 Euro on a bespoke saddle. Mys customer is petite, so though she is an adult, she has specialized in training dressage ponies, so I think it was a 16" or 16.5" saddle, And the range of people willing and able to make a huge investment on a special saddle for a pony /pony rider is even smaller than for a full size dressage horse. So it makes sense that it was one of the causes you suggest. One of our good friends had a bespoke saddle made for her horse, maybe 15 years ago. The horse had a bit of a crooked back as far as I remember, not much, but enough that a standard saddle hurt the horse. So she had someone from Kieffer coming up to her and measure her and her horse, and she ended up with a saddle that fit perfectly. I would love to be able to do that kind of work, but I haven't got the knowledge to do a proper fitting on a horse, so I just have to stick with doing repairs (but that is also a nice job) Brgds Jonas

Well done, Jonas! I can imagine how happy your customers must be — finding a truly well-fitting saddle is still a real challenge. I might have a possible explanation for the one-sided wear you mentioned. From a biomechanical point of view, there are usually two likely causes: 1. Hip imbalance An uneven hip can destabilise the leg and cause the rider to push or load the saddle more on one side. If this comes from a leg-length difference, it can sometimes be compensated for with different stirrup lengths. If it originates in the hip itself, correction usually requires a fully bespoke saddle and close cooperation between the saddler and an orthopaedic specialist. The seat must be shaped according to the imbalance that occurs when the rider sits in the saddle. And getting a bespoke saddler to work with your doctor and really taking the time is almost impossible, at least I know of non who would be willing to do that here in Germany if you are not a very successful sports rider. In those cases, I can only encourage investing in a bespoke saddle. Otherwise, the joy of riding is often replaced by recurring hip pain and cramping — in the worst case leading to painful dismounts and difficulty walking afterwards. This is really, really painful and definitely also makes the horse's life harder. But it's worth the 6.000€ to 10.000€ 2. Knee instability From experience, this is often the more difficult issue. A destabilised knee can sometimes be helped by a bespoke saddle, strength training (though in my experience this is rarely a complete solution), or temporarily fixing the leg position in the saddle. Very often, this also involves a confidence issue after injury. As a trainer, I was always wary of mind-related problems, simply because they take so long to resolve. My own knee hasn’t been fully “fixed” for years after surgery. As a result, I have one very stable leg and one that constantly drifts toward the grid. You can clearly see this reflected in the wear pattern on the inside of my boots — even more than seven years after the operation. Since the surgery I was unable to have a nice and stress-free ride and I loved riding dressage, now I can't even ride a straight line as I confuse the horse with that one leg being a total mess and we tried every trick in the book, besides a bespoke saddle. Best, Tove

Welcome to the mad-house, er. . . the forum Patterns; Tandy library has plenty of free patterns, or put a shout on here and I can maybe send you a PDF of a suitable Tandy pattern Tools; tell us what you have and we'll help you spend your money

Haven't worked with any kind of leather since Boy Scouts in the 70s, and those were kits. I am going to get back into Single Action (Cowboy) Shooting, and also hopefully retiring and I'd like to do some leather crafts. I have some leather I bought years ago, and some I just got along with some tools (Chinese). I've got cutting mats from puppet making. I'm not thinking of getting a machine, id like to make some leather belt bags and maybe work up to holsters. I'm very much a plain kind of guy, not thinking of carving, but some stamping for borders. Maybe I'll feel carving is something I'll like later. Just looking for suggestions on tools- like what is really necessary for easy patterns, where to buy leather, if there's a site with some free patterns or templates. Advice for an old newbie! Thanks so much in advance! Kent

the "Machinery's Handbook" has enough info on threads to make your head explode.

Here you are . . . the rivets you see are holding the card for the thumb break The extra holes are where I anticipated the thumb break would go . . . had to move it . . . sheesh . . . May God bless, Dwight

Trying out some new leather from Traditions Leathercraft on a larger piece 10 x 6 inch. The leather has a feel that took a little to understand, after it is very nice to work with providing a nice dark burnish. Trying out different aspects bevellling, backgrounding, matting, and cutting. Thus skipped around on the tooling.

I recently acquired a Singer 17-30. It has a feed dog but no needle plate nor needle/throat plate holder. I found the needle plate I need and ordered it. I can’t seem to find the throat plate holder, Singer part #16879. Does anyone have an idea where I might find one or an equivalent to fill the role? Thanks.

What, no 9/64-40? 😉 I skimmed that list of singer screws and wrote down the thread sizes I saw on it. Here they are ordered by size: 1/8-40 1/8-44 3/16-28 3/16-32 3/32-48 3/32-56 9/64-40 11/64-40 13/64-32 15/64-28 1/4-24 9/32-28 5/16-18 3/8-28 7/16-28 1/2-20 9/16-14

@catskin @friquant Here is a cheap quick nut and thread gauge that costs under $17 CAD ( $12.50 USD) delivered off Temu and Aliexpress. kgg

I used to punch 2 holes and then connect them with a box cutter, could never get them perfect. Still haven't ponied up for an expensive bag punch. A while back i bought a set of cheap chinese cookie cutter dies, all different shapes. There was one oblong one which is the perfect width for the belt buckle. I've had a set of plastic belt end templates for years and use them to center and mark the hole, then place the die on and smack it with my rawhide hammer. The die I use is a touch short so I just cut the first hole and slide it down a bit and hit it again. They turn out perfect. One thing about the buckle slot is that even if you were off a hair it wouldn't be noticeable.

I found the easiest way to get a 5/1 speed reducer is from a dead electric lawn mower. My price was $0.00

I have found that screws on Singer 29K and 31K15 machines match metric sizes exactly. I used a METRIC thread gauge and then measured the size with a micrometer. When possible took I the part to try the screw into. Or a nut that matches a screw that size. I haven't found a machine yet that doesn't have 2 screws the same size so I could take one to the automotive or bolt supplier to match. I was set a link by a guy that told me he didn't believe when I said that. BUT the link to the Singer site said MOST Singer screws match other systems SOME do not. So If I were you I would try a good fastener / bolt supplier.