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Hi everyone, I’m excited to finally join this community after browsing for a while. I’ve been working with leather for a few years now, focusing mostly on hand-crafted bullwhips, biker gear, and other accessories. My main interest is combining traditional techniques with durable materials (like kangaroo leather) to create gear that’s both functional and long-lasting. At the end of the post, here are a couple of recent projects I’ve finished: I’m always looking to improve, so I’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or suggestions. It’s great to see such a knowledgeable group of leatherworkers sharing their craft here. If anyone’s interested in seeing more of my work, I’ve been building a small collection on my site: bantoro Looking forward to learning from you all and contributing where I can. Best regards, Bantoro Crafts

Hi there, thanks for answering! I’m just wondering where I could source this hardware? Also if you could provide the names of these pieces that great. I know one part is called an eyelet/gromet, but not sure what the long, oval ring would be formally named? Any help is appreciated. Kind regards.

you could make that in less time than it took you post this. Am I missing something?

Holy cow, you be careful, Its hard to heal up and no fun at all. I've finally finished working on the truck, i think. I found a leaking oil cooler hose and changed them out yesterday, friggin arthritis in my thumb makes it hell to start bolts and tighten stuff. Elk season is near, its an excellent meat, very lean and i rate it a close second to Antelope. The taste of wild meats is largely due to two things the fat and how you take care of the meat during the processing. Most of the gamey taste comes from the fat and the blood, so it's essential you take it all off during the butchering. Ageing of the meat is also very important. Just like ageing beef, i usually hang my critters for a week at least to drain all the blood and tenderize the meat. The meat also develops a hard rind that is trimmed off during the butchering and takes with it any dirt, hair or blue skin that may be left. My dad taught me some very old school ways that have been largely forgotten over the years, he was raised primarilly by his grandfather, who came here from Ireland, and his uncles, who were early settlers of this area. Plus he grew up in the 30s with no electricity lol, everyone did things this way. We never used refrigeration in the process we had a shed that we hung the critters in it was dark and well-ventilated every day dad would cover the critters with a linen sheet, then at night, uncover them so the cool air could get to them. This would keep the meat cool and dry, literally as long as you wanted it to hang without going bad. Taking the burb out for its test run after all the work today, the wife and i are going to dig some more clay, hopefully to last the winter and see how the colors are changing in the leaves.

Ohio Travel Bag is a name you may look at . . . I believe they are owned by Weaver Leather now May God bless, Dwight

Hi everyone, I am looking for this specific hardware to tether a chain to a trucker wallet. Anyone know any good sites for this type of hardware? Ideally in both solid brass and nickel options. Many thanks!

Yep. I normally don't laser cut, but I don't have a 1.25" hole punch. Honestly it was never intended to be finished.

Finally finished it, made a new handle/pivot, took me two goes to get the right length linkage but the beauty of this design is it's pretty easy to modify. It is much better to use with the handle like this. And please ignore the crappy welds, there's nothing wrong with the MIG, just the operator!

Hi I have recently purchased one of these Patent Elastic machines. Unfortunately I didn't realise the bobbin case and bobbin were missing. Is anyone able to suggest where I may get one from or does anyone have one they would be willing to sell? I would also like a copy of the manual mentioned earlier in this thread if that is ok? Many thanks in advance for any help that may be available. Regards Smileyface

Ya, I'll do it! Can't help myself

That does look great! I'm also restoring 2 of these machines. How do you do the paint? It looks absolutely original. Thanks!

Can the pull the dot die work in weavers little wonder hand press?

I guess you mean the stitch length dial knob. I think I have a metal one here, I´ll check that later.... Or do you mean the Zig Zag knob?

Hear, hear! 🛠️

How about a close-up photo of the dial you are wanting to replace?

I did try to get the pin out...but the pin prevailed. Here is my "disassembly spread", inspired by @gottaknow's early post.

I've done that a time or 2 in the past. More often than not if it's a die or a punch in a cartridge that might stick I use a tiny bit of ballistol. It absorbs into most leathers without a residue or whatnot.

Post a photo. From what you describe, maybe a "strap wrench" of some sort?

A friend brought me tool that was found in a bunch of old harness parts. Brass head and handle like a hammer but has slots instead (about 1 1/4" wide and 1/4" or so tall) in either end of the head made like a strap would pass clear through. Ridges on bottom side of slot I figured for gripping and the hammer head is curved I thought for leverage. Anyone have any ideas what this tool might be?

Just watch the banner ads for Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and give him a call. Bob Kovar will know exactly what it is and probably have it in stock. Even if it's a standard thread and even if you know it, you won't know the length.

Just an update if anyone is interested: I used the same size stitch holes (I'd already had two other bracelets pierced), and used the same size thread (277). Knot on the needle was coming loose: I pierced the thread with the needle and knotted it, and I had a much easier time keeping a tight knot on the needle during stitching. Stitches were loose: I waxed the bonded nylon thread (tied it to a shelf on one end and held it taught with my left hand and ran a wax stick over the thread length about a half-dozen to a dozen times back and forth, top and bottom), and I pulled each stitch much tighter than before. The stitching, even after bending, feels firm and set. Thank you for the help! (Oh, I realized the other night I had accidentally created a second account some years ago! Klover = Hydra.) 😅

Singer (made in USA) should be an SAE thread. Could be fine or coarse thread pitch. My local ACE hardware has a tremendous selection of screws, bolts, and such. Lowe's stocks stainless steel machine screws in size 4-40, 6-32, and 8-32. A hobby shop that caters to radio control enthusiasts will have small screws in both SAE and metric threads. Grainger, Fastenall, and McMaster-Carr also stock a wide variety of hardware. If you can identify the size and thread pitch, a gunsmith may be able to help.

Houston Texas Shipping Via UPS PRICE WOULD VARY Depending on where your located

Hi All! I am trying to bring a pfaff 138 back to life. The bakelite dial is cracked and I would love to replace it with a fresher, intact dial. I cannot find anything online. Any help to point me in the right direction is appreciated!