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I have no idea of the maker and their intended market. Can this be done better? It sure can and most of the suggestions and comments so far are right on. We can all agree on that. It may have come from a kit, may have been clicked out in shop with the holes as part of the die. Simple and easy for most anyone to put together. It's easy for us to evaluate and make a better wallet, but that is why we are here to help the OP. That said, there are some makers who target a market who prefer simple, rugged, or rustic. There is a guy who puts together wallets with copper rivets, lots of them. He has a market for that look. There are belt makers who don't slick edges. Seriously, people intentionally buy jeans with holes in them, why not an unslicked belt? Bag makers can leave raw edges. I carry a pony express satchel my wife made in Aaron Heiser's class at a show - heavier hardware, raw edges, etc. I got 4 or 5 comments in every airport last year. She made a turned seam construction purse at the leather show in Las Vegas, all of the inside seams are bound. Yes, the inside seams that nobody sees but the user - that is a high level of finish you don't see much. Is the simple look their target market for wallets? Are they selling upper end stuff and this is the base? Not uncommon in business to have a bare bones version to drive a higher end more finished product. The bottom price sets the top price. Lot to consider here.

I just get the double-sided sheets off an ebay seller It takes a bit of practice to use the sheets tho

yup, a double-cap rivet. They go by many names I like to use bright brass rivets with one domed head. I think it looks a bit more 'classy'

NO GLUE? OMG! I suspected that. You did the right thing by taking it apart... good experience and a chance to improve it.

Mostly I use Weldwood contact adhesive, especially on larger pieces. Sometimes I use white "leather glue" (PVA?) when the project isn't intended to undergo a lot of stress. Sometimes I use double sided tape, where all I need is to hold small or light pieces together while I sew or rivet. Contact adhesive can be messy and difficult to manage on small, thin pieces. You have to align the pieces accurately on the first try but it is very strong and long-lasting. White glue works here, but takes a long time to dry, which also gives plenty of time to align pieces. Where the tape shines is on thin leather where glue might leave traces.

I have tried a few different tools like the bone folder style but was never pleased. I just could never seemed get the right amount of pressure to give the detail I thought should be there. When I did get the pressure right I somehow always managed to gouge the leather. Probably just me. My solution, design another tool. I made a folder using stainless steel welded rings combined with 3D printed parts. Cost very cheap probably less then a $1 and other costs. kgg

Do you mean a rivet, where those four stitches are, @fredk? Like a double-cap rivet? I'm unfamiliar with the term ready-rivet

@LMP The cotton thread doesn't have a very long shelf life B4 it starts to weaken & start breaking when sewing,but Yes you can try it & the lube would help as long as it is rotten.

thanks

https://pastorbobleather.com/product/glock-17-22-31-pancake-holster-template-with-thumb-break/

Wow. One very large thread to hold the pocket down. At the very least you have a wallet to use as a template. There are a lot of youtube videos on making different types of wallets. Watch several different makers because everyone has a little different way of making their wallets. Corter leather is a good one, Don Gonzales is also very good.

Yes they do overlap a bit but Talas is one of the last companies I would buy from. I've priced their stuff for my books but when you factor in the shipping it makes it unfeasible. That $5 bone folder is $9 for shipping. I ordered $40 in bookcloth and the shipping was going to be over $30. Out of curiosity I added in some Davey's Board and the shipping went up to $71 through Fedex, they didn't give me any cheaper option to ship. So when looking at the "cheap" prices be careful of the shipping.

Probably a card stopper to prevent cards from being pushed all the way down to the bottom stitch.

Wishing you a Good Day wherever you may be, personally it’s still early in the morning, MST. As many before me, I’ve been looking for a used sewing machine that will allow me to do light to medium leather projects. The amount of alternatives is mind boggling and I’m leaning towards a flat bed machine to start with. After doing a couple of postings on this site I feel there’s no where else I could get better information. I’m looking at a Singer 211, this one though ends right there, no numbers or letters to follow. Please share with me what you may regarding this model, I believe it’s an appropriate entry level machine for the things I want to make. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge, I appreciate it and wish you the best. Mario

He replaced the original screw with this one, and now it really slips very quickly

Sometimes buying tools from alternative sources can save you money. Like buying gasket punches from auto suppliers can save big money over buying hole punches. I find that bookbinding has a lot of overlap in the tools between leatherworkers and bookbinders. You can find skiving knives and bone folders at reduced prices compared to your typical sources for leather tools. www.talasonline.com https://www.talasonline.com/Bone-Folders?quantity=1&number=352&length=42

Thank you! That is very helpful. I do have some thread that is 100% cotton. Should I worry using it with this machine? Thanks again. Your response was very informative. Thank you. This is very informative.

Has anyone a pattern for a right-handed person for Glock 17 a break-thumb holster? Doesn't have to be wet molded (might be anyway tho), but it's a condition, it's break-thumb.

I've added a thread lube pot for sewing Biothane on my 441-type machine. The lubrication helps pull up the knots. Biothane is PVC coated nylon webbing that generates considerable friction on the needle. I don't use lube for sewing leather. Plastic add-on lube pots and thread lube are available from sewing supply stores.

Had a little spare time tonight, working on tiny tooling and did a little petal lifting.

@Hags what is the name of the 3m stuff or where does one find did try searching just came up empty

@fredk thanks will try that or at least get some to try, any place the best to buy

looks good

With today's modern bonded threads overheating of thread isn't as common a problem like it once was. Back in the 1940's the machine used cotton or nylon thread and it wasn't until the mid 1950's bonded polyester was used. Threads that were dry or fiberious or unbonded would overheat, then fray which lead to threads breaking under tension and speed particularly in a factory environment. The pad in the thread pot would lube the thread as it past under the oiled pad. The pad would provide just enough oil to reduce the friction as the thread made it's way to the eye of the needle from the spool of thread. That little bit of oil then reduced friction which reduced heat which reduced thread breaks then in turn gave consistent stitches, reduced down time and a better product. kgg

Nice work. As fas as keeping your stitching irons straight. Just keep a keen eye on it. Check & double check before pounding it all the way thru.