All Activity

I don't have any experience with this motor. I have been using analog servo motors exclusively since about 2012 or 2013 I still have my previous digital motor with the gradient light beam disrupter wafer in a closet in my trailer.

It looks to me like those parts are likely the same as on an Adler 20-2. I have a 20-2 and have extras of some of the parts you need.

I think I mentioned somewhere that I may have one.... Will check later.... heading to work now...

I am in need of a gear for my 29k machine. It is the one that goes inside to drive it with the wheel on the front. The hub is there. but a previous owner took out the shaft and gear. Has anyone found a gear that size on Amazon or anywhere else? Or made a gear. The singer number is 81869. I can make the shaft and adapt the gear if needed it just needs to be right tooth number and diameter.

I have a complete singer shuttle race for the class 7 not sure if it will fit I have some other bit but have to look for them.

Still can’t find manual that shows pic of machine .. what do you think that bar in vertical position on back of machine is ? I’m not sure why I can’t see pic in manuals that I found , I’ll keep looking thanks guys , if anyone comes across manual with pics could u post please so I can see . Maybe I’m really computer illiterate.😕

Thanks

Love it

Thanks! No issues with copyright. With rebinding as long as I dont make changes within the text block I'm safe. So I can't add my own art or any extra pages inside the text block. I can add things on the back and front though. I can't recreate any Tolkien, Warner Bro, or Amazon art. Even their elvish script is protected. Thankfully a guy made his own "elvish" script that he gives permission to all to use for private and commercial work.

@kgg, Thats $17 AUD if you are a member . I think its quite reasonable for a needle that needs to be specifically made to order and then bought in batches of 1000 only to sit on a shelf for 10 years or so. Landis goodyear welting machine needle cost me about the same and are prone to breaking more often . One of my supply reps once said to me after complaining about the cost of materials . Don't think of what it costs , think about the money it will make you . Fair point . My accountant said to me once after i complained about the amount of tax i have to pay . If you have to pay a lot of tax it means you made a lot of money That's good not bad . Compared to the time it takes to hand stitch as opposed to using the machine a $17 needle is fine by me .

Like Chuck said neatsfoot oil will soften and darken. Adding to much oil can turn your leather into oily mush, so take it slow. Do a few test pieces from the same leather you'll be making the headstall. The dye looks to be Fiebings Pro dye in dark brown When I do a vegtan headstall I tool it then add pure neatsfoot oil, you dont need a lot just enough to dampen the leather. I let it set in for a few hours then apply dye. The neatsfoot oil will act as a carrier for the dye and help it spread evenly. Let that set for a day. If its still stiff I work the leather a little. I roll it up with the skin side up and again flesh side up, I do this a few times. If it's still stiff add a little more neatsfoot oil. If it's not dark enough add another coat of dye. After dying it a second time it may be stiff. Just work the leather and it should soften. If not add a little more oil.

Thanks it was fun and challenging. Its a cool effect too. when I saw jurgens in Florence a few years ago I was dumbfounded and didnt know how it was put together. Then I learned how its done and its simpler than it looks. Its on learn with illume if youre interested.

Wow. Stunning work!

It took me a week to do but im happy with it, my dad is a nebraska fan so, I figured it would be a good Christmas gift. This challenged me on many levels but I like how it came out, and that rarely happens haha. Hope you like it, cheers!

Thanks to all that replied. It was a timing issue. Working fine now thanks Troy

I just remembered when I was fiddling with the gears the sound stopped but when I when to retime it the sound started again so I think I found the original position of the gears which was out of time. Hopefully the sound go's away eventually.

Mr. Wizcraft! You are a wealth of knowledge and such a resource for we beginner hobbyists! The SewPro 500GR sounds like a great product. I watched a video on in and it will probably run forever... and I wish I had one. And your statement above is interesting... it sounds as though production issues made such units unreliable. I wonder if you have experience with the Kinedyne motors being discussed. I would very much like your opinion of the 1000SH model I use; how it compares with analog units as well as other digital units that were disappointing. Thanks again for all you do for the Forum. MOH

Neet's foot oil will soften and darken your leather. You can apply some, let it set for a day, and see if it needs more. Take a piece of the leather, make a strap, and test it, then match your color. The sun will also darken it somewhat with time.

Well done!

A bit more info in this old thread. Was a 170mm at that time, changed it again later.

Very creative. No kind of copyright issues, since you're just rebinding an existing book? Similar to repainting a truck? Looks like a satisfying project.

Thank you. Sorry I wasn't quite sure where the best place to post was.

@paintpony7417 I moved this to Saddle and Tack Accessory Items, since the first question is about the right leather type. Maybe the saddle moderator will refine it further. Somebody here should know what you need.

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the feedback. The thought process was to make it to sell. If it doesn't sell it was going to go on my bookshelf. Before I put the leather on it I showed it to a friend and he wanted it for his son. He just really liked the page edges and end pages. Lol Do y'all think I should put a 2 line border on the front and back covers?

Hi all, I have a few beginner questions regarding leather type and dying.... I want to make another headstall for my horse, but I am stuck on a few things. 1. What is the best type of leather for a headstall? I was thinking veg tan as that's what I used last time and I want to add basic stamps and tooling, but I don't like how stiff it is. Is there a way to soften veg tan leather to make it softer and more pliable? 2. I want to try and match the color to my saddle (pictured). I know this is kind of a loaded question, but what would be the best way to achieve a similar color? I have used tandy dyes (on veg tan leather) in the past but no matter how many finishes I apply the dye still rubs off on surfaces from time to time. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This is the saddle I'm hoping to color match my project to.