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Curly maple grips with mahogany or padauk diamond accents would look nice. Love the colors on the leather work.

Yes, Obviously too wet when you are stamping and fluid squeezes out but I have had that milky fluid with some leathers. My thoughts are it is some of the oils and treatment in the leathers. Before we kick the can here, it happened mostly to me with Argentine vegtan leather from the Sadesa Tannery. Sadesa was some of the cleanest and finest leather I have tooled. Not all foreign leather is cheap urine smelling crap contrary to keyboard advice. Sadesa did not get as boardy after casing and tooling like some leathers do. The word was that it had more treatments. Casing is an art, but not rocket science. There are wipe and go/rewet as needed people, drown it and air it for a day people, and a lot of wet it/bag it, and set aside folks. Some good toolers wipe on something like saddle soap or baby shampoo and slick before tooling. My casing mix is milky to start with. Water- Lexol - baby shampoo - Listerine. Herman Oak and some others that tended to be "drier" I used more Lexol in the mix. This mix gave me more working time, better burnish, better molding, and more even oiling and dying afterwards. Everyone else's mileage will vary. If plain old water works - great. The bottom line is stay with a consistent leather tannage and learn what works with that leather. Then you aren't trying to figure out the moisture amount and time for even penetration on every new piece of leather you get.

That sounds like a big task. You should consider making a For Sale post over in The Marketplace: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/71-items-for-sale/

Tanner's Bond and stitched, acrylic paint in the artwork.

If there is any liquid coming up from the leather while tooling the leather is still too wet. The top grain should almost be the same color as it was before you got it wet.

Thanks!

Very nice work!

I bought a Weaver 1 3/4 belt loop punch. The first one cracked at the edge. Replaced it with no problem. Been using this one for 3.5 years. doing well. just dod a holster and a mag pouch today. I run it on the strop occasionally to dress up the edge.

Ditto Chuck. I just case mine, and that is an overstatement. I really just get it wet until it quits soaking it up fast. But I only use 8/9 for the most part.

I have a complete leather shop to liquidate. Skiver, 3 commercial sewing machines, clicker press, laser cutter and much more .

@Ben C Thanks for offering it here. Per the Marketplace rules, we need a location, picture and an asking price. https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/71-items-for-sale/ Thanks

What did you clean it for, and what did you clean it with? its probably the soap.

Around the first of the year, I was just getting into leather working and only had one Flatbed, a Cowboy 797 then and now, I found I'm in that twilight zone of frequently needing a heavy duty stitcher for holsters etc and still a hobbyist, I couldn't afford or at least justify buying a Class 4 or a CB4500. Prior to purchasing my Seiko CW8-B, which will sew almost 3/8" with 138 thread, I bought a Weaver Cub, a second edition but steel model. From day one, I thought the learning curve was steeper than it ought to be but I got by with mostly so so results. The other day, it started twisting thread even on the first throw. I inspected it closely and found the drive cam which slightly parts the needle to the outside just before the hook pick up the thread had a bur deeper than I felt I could polish out without changing the profile too much to work properly. I called Weaver Machinery and spoke with John. He is fantastic by the way and quickly agreed to send me a replacement part, which costs me 50 bucks. Then came putting the lower shaft back in and getting it in time. After several days of trying and retrying, and I forget how many times I watched his video Steal Cub Timing, I failed. At the point I needed to pause to set the needle timing the think would throw with tremendous pressure and a clanking sound. The Cubs I watched on youtube didn't have that loud of a sound. About ready to give completely up, my wife suggested I dig deeper into the machine. So I pulled the Flywheel / crank wheel off and saw my first clue. The very radical cam has two set screws at 90 degrees. Neither were set at the two flat sides but rather were up on the corners. Not certain but it couldn't have been good. I readjusted the cam and torqued the heck out of those two hex screws so it won't move anytime soon. This quieted the machine down three or four fold and made it so much smoother to run, smoother than it's ever been since I've owned it. Now I wonder if the seller would have sold it if he had understood there was a simple issue. I share this so hopefully some other poor soul like me doesn't have to fight so long with one of these things. If there is anything hinky at all going on, pop off that fly wheel and make sure those cam screws are really tightened down. Cheers.

The same hide, or totally different hides? That at least isolates it to the hide or something you're doing.

Here's a link to the lazer from the manufacturers site: https://www.crealityfalcon.com/products/laser-engraver-cutter-falcon2-40w-engraving-machine Link to enclosure: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1354212243/laser-engraver-enclosure-includes-all?ref=yr_purchases And a link to the enclosure instructions: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5ff105a30400f40890082114/t/671e5148325b0b69be92a256/1730040139458/Makergadgets+Professor+Instruction+Manual.docx.pdf

What type of leather are you using? I don't mean 'veg tan' but more specifically

So the pebbling down the entire length is all stamped?

Hey all, Well the title kinda says it all: here and there while I’m actively stamping, a thin milky liquid will rise to the surface. Yes, water rising probably means that I’m casing too much, but that’s not the question. I had thought that perhaps I hadn’t rinsed the soap off thoroughly from cleaning the leather before working it, but then I noticed it even when I hadn’t cleaned it first. Wish I had a pic to show, but it’s not something I think about when it happens, and I have yet to find rhyme or rhythm to encourage it. Thanks for any insight. —AZR

Yeah, probably. Overbuilding is my specialist subject.

I used to buy some of my motorcycling gear from military surplus stores. My gauntlets were WW2 British Dispatch Rider's* and my summer boots were WW2 German troopers boots. My rain cape, for use on motorcycle and post bike, was an ex-RAF WW2 guard's rain cape. I also used to wear boots called 'ammunition boots' as a postie. They covered the ankles and protected them from dog bites. They were tough and normally hard wearing but as a postie I walked a lot so wore out a pair in about 7 or 9 months There is one store left in Belfast. Still doing 'Army Surplus'. We have a very large number of marching bands and some of their uniforms are made up from Army Surplus uniforms * I think I may still have them somewhere

OP hasn't been back here since June so isn't interested in selling anymore. Locking and archiving this thread.

Maybe post a video showing how yours moves when that screw is loosened

Heavy-Duty Herman Schwabe Industrial Clicker Press – 5-Ton Vintage industrial-quality clicker press, built to last and perfect for serious leatherworkers, die-cutters, or manufacturing shops. Manufactured in Brooklyn, NY by Herman Schwabe Inc. — a highly respected name in the industry. Clicker press: dims 75” height Bed is 30x40 Head: 31x27” • 5-ton cutting capacity • Massive cutting surface with red poly board included • Baldor Industrial Motor (5 HP, 230/460V, 3-phase) • Electric Phase Converter required unless buyer already has industrial 3-phase power (not included) • Fully functional and in good working condition — used regularly in leather production • Buyer is responsible for disconnecting, rigging, and transport. • We can coordinate with your moving crew or rigging service to assist. This machine is a workhorse — perfect for medium to high-volume production environments. Serious inquiries only, priced to move due to downsizing and liquidation.

Checked what I paid; £8.90 with 2 sets of dies and 35 x 15mm snaps Its now running at £10.26 for the same

Hello, Great documentation of the restoration of the Dürkopp 17-1. I just happened to come across a 17-1 myself. You haven't scanned the manual by any chance and could share it?