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I found a saddle that is, from Legacy Saddlery. It only has black marker four a number on the underside of the pommel/ horn. It is stamped legacy, salary behind the horn, and it also has n "L" stamped on the outside of the stir up leather above the stirrup. An extensive search on the internet, nothing. I'm trying to figure out the maker of this saddle.It's very well made. Its very wide flat bars.

@Samalan made it a math lesson, but I have a center finder.

This is not a math lesson. Go buy a centre finder.

Well, the Big Dogs are going to have to solve this one. I'll watch and learn.

7/8 + 24-1/2 = 25-3/8 ...you got ahead of yourself. 24-1/2 + 3/8 = 24-7/8

@Dannymac see request above.

I saw this video. It’s a good idea. I just want to see if I’m doing something wrong first so I can correct it.

It feeds the material through at an angle.

I have been asked to make the holster in the attached picture. But I am not sure where to get the larger silver looking swivel. I know this is an old style Law Enforcement holster used back in the early 60-80's So I am not sure if it's even available anymore. Any help would be appreciated.

Finding the center of a line should be in your head, almost instantly, especially in leather work. Except for that rare time when the measurement needs to be closer than 1/32" Let's do one 50" divided by 2, what comes to mind instantly, 25 . Let's do another 50 and 3/4" divided by two, half of 50 = 25, and half of 3/4= 3/8", so it's 25 and 3/8" So let's do one a bit more difficult, 49.3/4" divided by two. Just think what's half of 40" = 20", then what's half of 9"=4.1/2" add them together and that's 24.1/2" all that's left is the .3/4" and half of that is .3/8" add that to the 1/2 and you get .7/8" add the .7/8" to the 24.1/2" and you get 24.7/8" When I first started in my trade, over 50 years ago, a big part of my job was measurement. My boss was a tough man, and that's being nice. After a few years, I went to him for a raise. With his gruff look and voice, he said, "Raise. What makes you think you deserve a raise?" Before I could say anything, he spat out, "How many thirty seconds in nine sixteens?" I said, "I don't know." He said, "Come back when you do know, and maybe I'll give you a raise." I was very mad, but I also knew he was right. I should know that. After a very short time, I came back, and I did know and trust me, if I can figure it out, you can too, and that's for sure. In a very short time, that stuff should be second nature to you, no special rulers or any of that. You should see the measurement and boom, the center is in your head. Sorry for the story, but what's half of 9/16"? If you had to think for more than "one half" a second, you need practice! In fact, you should not have to think at all for the answer to that.

This is a great resource! Thanks @NerdyLeather for taking the time to do this. And thank you @Johanna for turning it into a PDF.

A Google search of this site turns up a number of threads about tooling/stamping bridle leather. "site leatherworker.net tooling bridle leather" I use a fair amount of HO bridle leather for making English tack, and appreciate that it is firm and has a smooth "moss back." In my limited experience, Wickett and Craig bridle leather has a softer temper. If you're seeing loose fibers that might not be the best part of the hide. I find that typically more than half a side of HO bridle leather is firm, smooth backed, and suitable for straps. Bridle leather is stuffed with fats/waxes that impair water adborption so it won't case like regular veg tanned. An alternative to carving/stamping would be to carve designs without stamping. Jean Luc Parisot has some nice examples on his Instagram account.

Hi Dannymac, Hope you got somewhere with this. Did you ever find any instructions or videos? I just picked one up myself, in good working order but would love to get to see an instruction manual.. Andy

If it's not a lot of trouble, a pdf should be a lot more compact. I know we have a lot of those military manuals for sewing machines floating around and even a high res scan is under 10 megs. 11x17 would probably be larger. If it's as easy as swinging past an office supply place in your travels, and it can be done without damaging the original, it would be a fantastic thing to preserve. I saw a copy on ebay that sold for $50! I would at least chip in for the expense.

Looking good dikman but I didn't realise it was the railway steel you were wanting to bend Now you have to form the roundy bits and the pointy bits that get the job done. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Progress! Much cutting, grinding and welding later and I have something that just might work. The handle is a bit long but it gives plenty of leverage and the linkage works better than I expected. The potential down-side to pushing down on the handle is the force may cause the front to lift, we'll see. It needs a bit of fine-tuning with the grinder and the next thing is to make some bending tools to actually try it on the banding steel.

Tandy sells this one on their website Japanese Heavy Duty Holster Slot Punch

So you want a scanned to pdf file of all of the pages?

I found a similar document, but from the RCAF and focusing on physical fitness. When I asked the Feds (air force) about it, they said it was out of copyright. I posted it online to share, after scanning and manually entering the text. You could likely get similar permission here, and as Al Zilla offered, several of us may be willing to help out. Looks like a terrific resource! Thanks for posting.

Does anyone tool English bridle leather and is there any secret to tooling/stamping? I got another order for a belt but I ran out of belt blanks... Since I don't sell many belts, I usually only cut a few out of a each side. I didn't want to order a whole side quite yet because I have plenty to continue making holsters. So I jumped onto weaver's website and came across Hermann Oak english bridle 10/12oz 1½" belt straps. They're veg tanned and can be stamped and tooled. And since I only use Hermann oak veg tan I thought this might be a great option. I got the strap a couple days ago. It's a nice solid piece of leather with nice tight top grain. I'm not so happy with the flesh side. It's been finished and it's obvious there's a ton of loose fleshy leather. I'll line it anyway, but that's a red flag for me. It wouldn't be a part of the hide I would use for holsters because that typically tells me there's no real solid body to the leather. This strap feels solid though I gave tooling a shot on the cutoff, which is where the most loose flush side is. It definitely feels tight and sold. So solid it's hard as hell to tool. It carves easily enough, burnishes like a dream, but it almost feels like I'm tooling a dry piece of leather. I need to hit my tools quite a bit harder than I'm used to, which is putting my tooling skills to the test. Before I start the actual belt, I had to ask the questions above Thanks

That's a cool looking holster.

In regard to my last post, two up ( I wish these posts had numbers for reference) I must have been suffering from old-timers disease. I meant to say that most CCW/casual belts are 1.5" wide, so the slot should be a little wider, like a minimum of 1/8" wider, so 1 5/8" for a vertical slot. Listen to Bruce Johnson. He said it right. Sorry.

Use a good boot waterproofing and buffing on the sheaths and thumpers, then take care of them like a pair of good boots. On the dog collars, an initial oiling with NfO, then the dog's own oils keep them supple unless they are really water dogs on a daily basis. Acrylics tend to crack and peel when actually used on stuff that flexes, then do no good anyway. Plus my ignorance of its chemical properties and laziness to look up possible problems I wouldn't put it next to my dog's skin on a permanent basis.

Thanks everyone !!!

Legal is 8.5 x 14". Yeah, your right. Sunday morning brain cramp ...