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Yes, this project took a lot of time and effort multiple revisions and refinements and even then, perfection is always a moving target. We’re planning to add more patches on the front panel to balance the design and fill the empty space you see. This duffle bag was created for a client who approached us with a custom request. We’re a small custom patch business, and projects like this often come through word of mouth and referrals. The bag features premium leather patches, carefully embroidered and applied to achieve a bold, high-end finish.

I started a book rebinding project. It's going to be JRR Tolkien's The Silmarillion in a clamshell box and after the holidays I'll do a box set of The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings trilogy. I started by tearing off the paper covers from the text block. I painted the page edges black with white specks. I added a vellum title page, a black silk ribbon, burgundy headbands, and black marbled end pages. For the cover I used 2-3oz vegran goat hide. I gave it 3 coats of Fibing's green Pro dye, .095" binder's board. For the cover art I used gold and holographic heat transfer vinyl (htv). I sealed it all with a few coats of a mix of Resolene and carnuba wax. The clamshel box I used .095" binders board, burgundy book cloth, black marbled paper, and the art was htv.

I think it looks fine . . . you definitely put a lot of time into it for sure Sometimes it is the time spent that helps the maker say to himself "Good Job" when he can look at it knowing it is done. What is the bag for? May God bless, Dwight

@Einherj. The needle has no adjustment apart from the stitch length . Where the needle is fixed is solid and cant move therefore i conclude you have the wrong needle . The current wear marks could be as a result of deflection of the needle when re -stitching through existing holes like when doing a repair . However don't sweat it because new needles are available from here . https://www.leffler.com.au/pederson-needle-hvy-for-308-machine/ . This is the only source i know of . They are in Australia and they are reasonably priced . Become a member for a good discount . The needles are quite tough and last a while but i don't know for how much longer they will exist so get a few as spares . I occasionally sharpen mine with a small hand held diamond file . If stitching sole leather wet the leather beforehand.

Looking really good! Here's a similar seat that was fitted with new leather. It is a project I would really like to try, but I haven't got any bikes with that style of seat. My reasoning for 6 strand is that a seat lives a pretty rough life, there is plenty abrasion from the drivers legs and there is sunshine, rain and dust, all which is hard on the stitching. Brgds Jonas

Yeah, that hat has some character, now. My dad used to cut 4 air holes in his hats. His looked much like yours. Also from greasing the tractor then driving a good coat of dust on it. LOL The round hat clip looks good. Using a caribiner is a good idea for it. I'll try the bar magnets first to see how they do.

I've been watching this thread grow in frustration as people discover the weaknesses of the various servo motors they've purchased, only to find that most were wanting in either slow speed torque or starting speed. I see plenty of reports of high torque servo motors that start with a jerk at anywhere from 50 to 200 rpm. People owning analog, brushed servo motors get a smoother startup from zero, but the torque is so low that a speed reducer may be needed to get the machine to turn over. I want to tell you a story about an analog servo motor that I used to buy for my heavy leather stitchers, and even my walking foot machines. It was called the SewPro 500GR, which was sold by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, back in 2012 through about 2016, or maybe 2018. The motor had replaceable brushes (with spares included), a fully adjustable brake lever, and, wait for it ... a built in 3:1 speed reducer. That motor could power almost any sewing machine that was smaller that the 441 clones. It powered my cb4500 via a 3:1 speed reducer, mainly to add punching power at very slow speeds. I drove all over my walking foot machines from zero to its maximum speed without any jerks or hesitation. The motor was reliable and sold like hotcakes. Then, one day the employees went of for lunch and never came back! They shuttered the factory! Poof, gone! For a few years, enterprising folks learned that they could print out gradients onto transparent plastic wafers that replaced the original solid wafers that were moved across the light beam or photocell receiver. The gradient wafers allowed the digital servo motors to start at such a slow speed that it was virtually unnoticeable. The trick was keeping the gradient wafers affixed to the moving control lever. Eventually, we just stopped using those motors and switched to analog motors fed through speed reducers. I personally prefer to use analog servos with either 2:1 or 3:1 speed reducers, rather than a digital servo that starts at a noticeable speed bump. I sacrifice the top speed that I don't really need in exchange for low speed torque and a very smooth startup.

The hat came yesterday, used a little tape to shrink it, long oval seems to fit good. After wearing it a couple days it has shaped to my head and is very comfortable. It is show in the photo already dirty, hard to keep hands clean and run a farm. Put the hat on and had to grease the tractor, it is a tool much the same as the tractor. Thank you for the kind words, have had good teachers who I have not met in person. Your welcome. I got some yesterday and they work much better, this hat clamp used them.

Thanks! 6-strand linen! OK, this might be a test of his patience. Here is the frame and the first layer experiment. Found better rivets today, so those will be changed out.

I bet that smells great! lol Last night I visited an underwhelming buffet restaurant, with amazing company That man is a hero! I hope he finds a twenty in an old jacket from the back of his closet.

Thats a good idea. I'll do that tomorrow and let you guys know If that is the case.

You could do a bit of science here and move one tooth back to the original, to confirm that it's quiet in the original configuration and loud being one tooth off.

Thanks for the advice AIZilla, the second clacking sound is the gears changing and the case opener (I should have removed it for clarity) and moving a tooth is exactly what I had to do when timing it so maybe the sound is just the gears breaking in or something of the like. Nevertheless Friquants advice about putting the throat pate on when running the machine and marking the gears is still helpful for a novice like myself.

That second video really doesn't have any sound that bothers me. Assuming the clacking sound is just the gears changing direction. If you had to hop a tooth in one direction or another to get the hook timing right, then there's not much you can do about that. I suspect that sort of rushing sound when the gears are running will decrease, if it's a new noise. This opinion is worth less than you paid for it, but that's what it looks like from here.

I have not done this, but this would be the process: Mark your starting position on both gears. Slide the larger gear left, advance one tooth, slide it right, check for noise. Keep cycling through the teeth until you find the one that is quiet. On mine (Singer 144) the smaller gear has 15 teeth, so that's 15 positions to check. But unless you did some screw swapping (set screw for position screw) I expect you to only need to go one tooth over to find the original position.

I previously shared an image of the patch, and this is the full look of the bag. How does it look to you?

Thanks for letting me know about that I'll make sure to keep the plate on next time. I've tried separating the gears and turning both of them and they don't make the noise on their own so I'm pretty sure its the two gears. and the gears have changed from factory placement so that might be the source of the noise but I'm not sure how to change that.

I just realized that you are running the machine under power without the throat plate in place. That is generally a bad idea as the machine could bind. I don't know if that will affect the sound It's safe to turn by hand without the throat plate though

You might try sliding the gear on the hook driving shaft all the way left (so it no longer drives the hook). Then see if it still makes noise when you move the hand wheel. That will tell you if it's hook related or not. While the gear is out of the way, also try rotating the hook by hand and check for noise there. Before all that: if your teeth are still matched up as from the factory, I suggest marking them before sliding the gear out so you can but them back in the same place.

Strength wise, I think that a braided thread is stronger, but given the age of the motorcycle, I think waxed linen thread is the most correct thread to use. I would go with a 6 strand waxed linen thread, And I would reapply some wax to the thread once in a while while sewing. Just to make sure that the thread don't start to fray. It sounds like a great project, I hope you'll share some pictures once it is done. You could try to ask a shoe repair business or saddle maker if you could buy 10-15 yards of linen thread, (if there is a one of anywere near where you live). That is my best guess for getting hold of something before Christmas. Brgds Jonas

I am helping my grandson build his Harley long-nose seat. At this point, he will be stitching by hand, two layers of veg-tanned leather with pre-drilled holes. I'm ready to order the thread. I'm thinking waxed four-ply linen .8 to 1mm? But I'm not finding it where I can get it sooner than next year. And not sure if that thread is the best in this situation. Any thoughts?

hey guys and girls so today i had a little time. set up a table to work on the sewing machines. i dated them. and looked them all over and see whats what. the dates are june 21 1932 for the 132k7 may 6 1952 for the 132k7 november 20 1941 132k6 sadly the broken one februari 6 1941 132k6 one of the k6 had a broken bed. after looking it over it has a broken axle to so i think it fell. that one wil be a parts machine for the other 3 and already helped the other ones with parts. ive been cleaning the 3 metal plates under the feet and left and right from them. i had a lovely afternoon thinkering and cleaning and getting to know them a bit. scavaging parts and putting them on the other 3 so complete them. they are gonna need a full back to metal painjob. as the paint is mostly gone on the beds. but i was expecting that. so im thinking colorchange i have 3 good bobbin winders. one has a broken lever maybe it can be replaced wil see. came with a big bobbin winder but i dont think its from these machines. and 2 grease or wax pots that go on top. i geusse for greasing or waxing the tread before sewing. gonna be fun projects

I just ordered some of those N52 magnets. Thanks for the tip on that.

Thanks, here is a video of me hand turning the wheel and the sound that it makes https://youtube.com/shorts/xqZXBxgeJSg the video should be uploaded by 1pm today

HS, along with the cold weather, my furnace broke down! Ok, it could have been worse - the furnace wasn't totally dead - but still, 14 C. in my bedroom is NOT something I'm okay with! I had so many blankets on the bed I could barely turn over! Luckily, my furnace guy was able to come and fix it without delay, and it was an easy fix. Speaking of BBQ's, my sister-in-law has only been able to round up one of her three children for Christmas dinner, which means we'll only be celebrating with 4 people. That's not enough to make the effort of cooking a turkey worthwhile, sooo my brother will be firing up the barby. Yep, steaks for Christmas!