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Someone pointed it out to me so I had to give it a go at making it

I saw the 45 rpm adapter at 1st, as well. The 2nd one looks like a Japanese kamon or crest.

That looks similar to a Doc Holliday rig, like in the movie Tombstone or Doc Holliday. Definitely an older style rig, late 19th century, early 20th century type. Sorry, I have no details for you, but there should be plenty of options around.

Very nicely done. That is a lot of excellent hand stitching, especially without a clam or pony. Wear it with pride.

Hello, what leather braiding and knotting books do you have? Thanks!

This was my concern, that this is going to devolve into a string of DND links. If the members want to have this conversation, no problem with me. But we have enough trouble with the Minecraft spamers. No need to add DND to the list.

Agree with AlZilla, this is off-topic. I googled the rules for "arcane focus" in an official-looking website, and this might help: (Looking for the right strip of leather to cast a spell seems like it could be like looking for the keys to your house in the dark when a dog is chasing you.) https://blackcitadelrpg.com/arcane-focus-5e/

That sir, is a fine piece of work, good job.

Adult area - some things can't be unseen!

I would recommend not using suede, for the reason you mentioned, unless you have a really ugly flesh side you’re trying to hide. However I would still would say line it with a grain side out. As far as over lap I wouldn’t. If you use two pieces of veg tan leather your edge finishing should be able to hide the seam, or you can lace the edge like Alzilla said, using edge paint or Fiebing’s Edge-Kote to hide the seam if you’re like me and your burnishing is not tip top. Hope this helps.

I looked all over for a copy of Bob Park's book in an electronic format. I don't think there are any copies other than physical. You might also look around for a copy of "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bill Gardener. It is also excellent. Good luck!

Sounds like you're chickening out from trying it?

Could you oblige me with some info as well. I just acquired a Glaco 18/2 and it has no manuals and I can’t find anything online. I threaded it finally but I would like to adjust the stitch length if possible. Currently it is about 1/4” long stitch, I would like to tighten up just a bit. Thanks in advance from Texas. R.Pena

You did good!!! Opportunities like this don't come along too often. (P.s., I'm jealous).

You need to provide a lot more information: Where are you located? This is a world wide forum. I assume you are looking for a buyer from your area. According to your IP address you are in Texas. List a reasonable amount of what you actually have. A few photos would be helpful. What is the asking price in US$? Will you ship? Who pays shipping? See the marketplace rules here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/

I'll fix the title in a few minutes.

Have you tried a search? Here is one for a 3 ring binder, you can modify the search parameters as you wish. https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?&q="3 ring binder"&page=1&quick=1&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

Let's move this to Off Topic. I'd use a firearm to kill a cow, skin it and tan the hide, then cut the strips I need. Unless your realm has a leather store like Tandy.

You could put a binding on the edges to hide and contain the interface between the liner and exterior. It's a folded over piece of your material of choice, folded over the edge and sewn. Pretty common on all sorts of things - clothes, gear, carpet and so on. You've seen it a million times. The rest of it, I don't have a clue.

My Consew's servo has a min of 400 rpm and I have the smaller pulley installed. If anything a needle positioner would be nice on this machine. As for the Claes I think I'll get a speed reducer to really slow it down. Yup, thanks for the correction on model number. For some reason I've been transposing the 3 and the 4 ever since I first read about this model. I can't find a way to change the title or I would... I'm sure you're right about boot soles. I don't really have any goals with the machine other than to be able to get into tight places for boot and backpack repairs. If it did soles that would be a bonus but not a deal breaker. Thanks for the link, that manual seems to be posted on a few websites. I also have a document with drawings of individual components but that one is in German. I've seen posts regarding a mechanics manual but I can't seem to find one posted online. Hopefully you're right on the adjustment. We'll see what everyone thinks after looking at the video. No worries on the sole work, just brainstorming what things I may attempt to repair. Yup, I think slowing the machine down to a crawl would beneficial than a positioner. It came with a couple dozen 88 needles, I didn't see any 81s in the batch. Here's the uploaded video. Along with the needle timing I'm also concerned about the horizontal play in the main shaft. You can hear it "clunk" into place every rotation. Here's the Youtube link, hopefully it's good enough:

I am currently designing a half-size binder, and am debating whether/how to line the inside. I am very new to leatherwork (I’ve made a wallet and few small items), and I haven’t lined anything before. A couple questions: Would suede be a reasonable option for the inside of a binder? There is a pocket, so would suede inside the pocket provide too much friction for the papers to slide in and out easily? I would like to avoid folding the edges over, but are there any other options to make clean edges when lining leather? If it’s necessary to fold the edges over, how much extra on each side should be left? Thank you in advance!

😅 I guess that is a sign that I need not worry about trying chicken fat on leather. I'm afraid I do not know much about ancient Ireland except for the fact that the society was more advanced and structured and much more respectful of women than society today. I always wondered why they allowed the Anglo Saxon hordes and their sanctimonious attitudes to overcome them. Anyway, I seem to be digressing from the main topic. I am planning to try the various water based conditioners. Sometimes I find that I need one which does not change the color of the leather. I know the Chemical Guys conditioner is good but am looking for others. I have found that with water based conditioners, I need to condition more frequently. Without an occlusive agent, the leather dries faster, I suspect. That is why, if I can condition a set with different water based conditioners, I can get an idea of how long each conditioner lasts before the specific piece of leather needs to be conditioned again My current set, with oils, waxes and fats are still fine and do not need to be treated again.

Good afternoon. I'm sorry to hear that you're unable to keep making leather goods. If you have photos or a list or leather and tools for sale, I'd be interested to see what you have. Thank you.

I'm82. Hands no good anymore. I've been making whips, bridles, horse gear, watch fobs....etc.... Tools, Leather, books, etc... For Sale. (no stamps or leather carving gear)

A bit of an unconventional topic for a forum like this, I'm just not sure whom else to ask than a bunch of leatherworkers. Preface: In DND, spellcasters (Wizards, Sorcerors, and Warlocks) use an Arcane Focus. An Arcane Focus is a special item to channel their magic, replacing the need for certain material components when casting spells. Spellbooks, hold spells to later access and utilize. Normally they are leather bound books of pages. Some spellbooks could use metal sheets in which spells are etched with acid. My character's "spellbook" was a staff with leather straps attached to a staff. Braided leather cord, leather straps with increasing length and width with spells engraved into them. That staff later replaced with a Scimitar when taking the Bladesinging subclass. Question: What would you use to gather the bundle of leather straps and braided cord? That could also be attached to the ring pommel of a scimitar? Apologies if this isn't posted in the right topic or if this isn't something people normally ask.