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  2. So I decided to reupholster the door panels in my work truck. I'm new to upholstery, but I *think* I have that part figured out. I have an idea that I need help with. Here's the panel: My idea is to build complete new panels, and keep the factory ones intact. No particular reason, but it is a company owned truck even though it's assigned to me. I do have permission from the owner for this project. The factory panels are conveniently 0.75" thick, so I can make them from MDF, particle board whatever I decide. Suggestions on this are welcome also. My main concern is mounting the new panels. I do not want any visible mounting through my brand new black cypress leather. The factory panels mount to a flat aluminum sheet on the door using these clips: For the life of me, I cannot come up with a mounting process. I know my question doesn't directly pertain to leather itself, but I'm hoping someone is more familiar with upholstery tricks than I am. The new panels are going to be black cypress on top and bottom, the middle section will be black/white hair on cow. Haven't decided on red or black piping yet. Truck itself is red. Any suggestions? Ideas? Scrap the whole project? Thanks in advance!
  3. Ahhh. The good ol' days, when Army Navy Stores sold tons of surplus, and weren't camping gear stores. I remember in the mid-70s, you could still find some WWII and Korea surplus, and of course a LOT of Viet Nam surplus.
  4. Its just leather man lol. Sharpen them and ya won't have to beat them to death.
  5. I feel the same way, thank you!!!
  6. Today
  7. I've worn a few pairs of those out. They couldn't give them away, hardly back in the day, I used to buy them because they were the cheapest boots you could find. lol. They aren't the most comfortable things in the world, so consider them a collectible before good footwear. They may have worked well for jungle use, but that's about all imo. Did a quick internet search (Vietnam era jungle boot care) and there's actually a forum on this stuff, "US Milatria forum", plenty of good info. What I did learn is that these boots were not polished during that time in history, so doing so would lessen their value and make old guys laugh at you when they see you.
  8. if it was me I´d go with the 67-GA-373. Have an eye on the timing belt. The old brown ones tend to crack and fall apart with the time. If yours is bad check this tread:
  9. if it is a CLEAS (please post pictures) then there were at least 3 different sizes off bobbins / hooks. This is a pic from a later model but IIRC the hooks remained the same event until today but I have to admit I have not much experiences with the colibris. CLAES RPX, Modell 200 and newer models I know more of.
  10. I actually remembered this post when I recently visited an aesthetic center in Cyprus. The whole place had such a relaxing and professional vibe that I instantly felt so good just being there. As I was looking around, I noticed how well-organized the stylists were, and it reminded me of what you wrote here. A few of them were using these really stylish and practical leather tool pouches for their combs, scissors, and clips, and it caught my attention right away. It was amazing to see how something so simple could make their work look even more professional and convenient. It instantly brought back the memory of reading your question about patterns for these pouches, and I thought how nice it would be to find one myself after seeing them in action!
  11. Chargebacks are really the main problem in this situation!
  12. Thanks, I like how it came out, its a really clever design too
  13. Nice work.
  14. Use a wax on them canvas tops. The kind to rejuvenate waxed canvas. You might want to have them valued before you go kicking around in them.
  15. Looks great! Nice work.
  16. Thanks, it is a fun design to put together
  17. I´m collecting Vietnam War items for many decades. If it was me I would not wear them. first of all when it is a common wearable size (f.i. 9R, 10R and so forth) I think the collectors value is higher than the value of wearing them. If you don´t care (your choice) keep in mind that the rubber sole is 55 years old ant it may crack sooner or later when wearing. If it was me I´d sell them to a collector (maybe on Ebay) and buy a new pair of jungle boots.
  18. That looks great. Very well put together and great molding.
  19. Yesterday
  20. Not a bad plan. Does the leather feel dry? Larry
  21. My thoughts- Bundle leather by types. Veg tan leather/chrome tan/kangaroo separately. Rest of the tools - depends on makers. If these are makers like Barry King, Robert Beard, Gomph-Hackbarth, Ron's Tools, etc. - it is worthwhile to separate to the "each level". They are a whole different deal to sell If these are Craftools - i would bundle. Realistically in my experience - the common handled Craftools bring the same price each whether you are selling one at a time or 10 in a bundle. Stamps - ditto. I would suggest bundling into groups by type and not go further. I am going to politely disagree that you will get more selling them individually. What will probably happen is that a year from now you will have the dregs still on hand. The extra money you made is offset by the per-piece you have looking at you. At the shows I sell stamps for $5.00 each - over the course of the year, half sell and the rest are given to kids or veteran's groups. Handled tools used to be $5.00 as found. Now I sharpen them as much as my other tools, then sell them for $7.00 after shooting pictures, descriptions and loading them on the website. Am I losing money in the time vs return column? You bet but I am clearing totes and getting requests before many ever hit the website now. I am getting to the point where I am probably not going to have a "bargain table" at any shows except Prescott. The bargain table does better there than the rest of the shows together. Here is Option B- I am going to be a vender at the new leather trade show that Illume magazine is putting in Las Vegas in early January (South Point). I am doing a double booth as usual. I will not have a bargain table there. If you want to put your stuff on one of my tables, I should have at least a half table available.
  22. Awesome, thank you. I'll see about getting a replacement. Thanks again for all your help; I really appreciate it.
  23. And also I would recommend to spend more money on that thing because if she is a really good cosmetologist tools must to be hold in a very good place!
  24. That screw is a shoulder bolt with a very wide top. It appears to help constrain the plate that moves vertically when you lift the presser feet. That is, help prevent that plate from moving to the rear of the machine. (It has other constraints as well, which is probably how it's still functional without the shoulder bolt)
  25. Thanks Friquant! You are totally right...I am missing that lock nut and that screw and I didn't realize it. Uh oh. Any idea what that screw does?
  26. Like @Dwight and @AlZilla have said break it up into various pieces. Check and see what the items can be purchased for new and ask fair reduced price. I think you would have to take a lot less selling them as one big lot. Someone maybe interested in leather while others may want needles and thread or tools. I have in the past bought bulk lots but got them for a real cheap price and then sold off the items that I didn't want for a profit. kgg
  27. Hi all; I picked up an unissued pair of third pattern jungle boots, and want to know if I need to do anything special before wearing them? Date of manufacture is 2 70. I’m thinking using neatsfoot oil & conditioning several times over a couple of months. Any thoughts? Thanks! Bill
  28. I missed this when you posted it. Most ingenious. How about the hitting end, they appear to stand up to the impact pretty well? I'm almost certainly going to copycat this idea. Maybe fill the hollow end with molten lead.
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