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@Ciscokid noted on his profile page that the machine is sold. Locked/moved to Sold.

@adler sewing machine We just need to know where in the world it's located and your shipping terms. Thanks for offering it here. By the way, that *.heic file doesn't display. You should convert it to something more generic and re-upload it. If your edit window has closed, just add it as a reply to this thread.

Model: 205-370 : Used Sewing 205-370 is a specialist for the manufacture of shoes and leather goods, saddlery, upholstery and technical textiles Cylinder Arm Single Needle Trip (Used) (Dusty but works well) 20250721_174010.heic

I would love to try some elk on the bbq. I'm guessing it has a gamey flavour . I've had emu before, strong game flavour. Yep, bbq here I come 😋 had a bbq this arvo . Not too many peeps in the cities would take much notice of the changing seasons like us. I'm sporting a bit of a shiner on my right eye atm, climbing down from the back of my tractor I lost my footing and collided with the seat , hitting my face , just missed my glasses. I also went tits up in the paddock this arvo while spraying, anyone watching would have quite a giggle out of that. What a goose 🪿 😆 🤣 HS

As it is directly related I'll drop a article I just published on beeswax and its penetration on leather. https://birchees.ca/does-beeswax-penetrate-leather/

yup its cooling down big time here, right on schedule we had our first cold snap!! ya know the global warming hoax well, funny story. I started bow hunting about 1977. Opening day has always been Sept 1st. When i started Elk hunting it didn't take me long to figure out it was still to warm i would go out for my week and not have good luck as Elk don't start their rut until cold weather sets in. I would come home, then about a week later, it would turn cold and storm for the first time of the year. So i started taking my hunting trips on the third week of September. Guess what, there has not been a year since i started watching that the weather hasn't changed and stormed during the second or third week of the month. We are now down in the 30s at night it will warm back up into the 70s in the day but summer is no more lol. Bad thing is the last frost in the spring is just as accurate it kills off my apricot buds every year. It has only been warm enough for my apricots to bloom twice about 10 years ago and the tree is about 30 years old now. I think it's a state-to-state thing no federal regulations that i know of.. I don't know of any here but there isnt much to mow down here lol. Probably insurance companies make folks do it here. Time for U 2 bbq lol.

Thank you. If we all had the same taste we would all still be driving black model T's. kgg

Nice bag! Can't beat an old workhorse like that machine. They sure don't make em like they used to.

Pretty cool. laser cut?

Those are nice too. Maybe I am old-fashioned and carry too much folding money, but that style seems to get bent out of shape for me. I really like the cantilever style of locking mechanism. But, that is probably why there are so many styles...one for each of us. Nice looking wallet BTW. I have never seen that style before.

In Denmark saddler is also a protected title that requires you to have a journeymans certificate. I am self taught and never refer to myself as a saddle maker. I just make repairs, I have a basic idea about how a saddle should lie on a horse, but I am not good at determining whether it is the correct saddle for the horse and rider. I once replaced a billet strap that someone else had tried to repair. I don't know who (and I prefer not to), instead of lifting the seat of the tree, the person had just used a stapler to mount the billet. At least the local horse club had spotted that it wasn't done properly, so they sent the saddle my way. I am guessing that it might have been a parent connected to the club who didn't have the guts to tell them that the repair job was beyond his capabilities. They way I see it, if you have sound judgement, knows the basics about how to stitch etc, and know when to say NO, then I don't see anything wrong in doing repair jobs as long as you do them properly. The same goes with some new items such as halters and sliding reins etc. Brgds Jonas

@PastorBob I use a lower profile stainless steel money clip that I drill a hole in so I can put a Chicago screw or copper rivet through to hold it to the wallet. I have one on wallet that is about 4 years old and no problems. kgg

Thanks for the laugh!!! Were you experimenting with stitch spacing? A couple of them look too close together, but it may just be the pic. Wing divider will help you keep the stitch lines nice and straight. I'm an "edge dork" so I'll always have something to criticize there, even on my own edges. I think these look good though! I'd put one in my pocket!

Wasn't sure where to put this... Just wanted to see if this could be done. It can. I seriously doubt Knuckle Sammich will work for its intended purpose, but I wouldn't want to be on the receiving end to find out. It's a wall hanger in my shop and a conversation piece.

Why This Matters If you've ever tried hot foil stamping on leather, you know the pain all too well. It's that moment when the foil just won't stick, the edges look sloppy, or your perfect piece of leather is ruined by a burn mark. If you've felt this heartbreak, you're in the right place. Here’s the thing: while good foil is a must, the true game-changer is your mastery of temperature, pressure, and dwell time. You can have the best foil on the market, but without this trifecta, your results will fall flat. Master these three elements, however, and you can transform your craft. We've gathered data from countless tests, community discussions, and expert advice to show you exactly how. 1. Temperature: The Foundation Your first challenge is Temperature. Too little heat? Your foil won't stick, leaving you with a patchy, lifeless finish. Too much heat? You'll watch your clean lines "bleed" and lose all sharpness. On delicate leather, you risk a permanent burn. Real-world experience proves this point. On Leatherworker.net, one leatherworker ran a series of tests on vegetable-tanned leather. The results were clear: 110°C gave a crisp transfer but lacked vibrancy. At 120°C, the shine was perfect, though the edges were a bit softer. Push it to 130°C, and the lines completely blurred. We also saw a beginner on Reddit share their struggle with PU leather—120°C wasn't enough to get the foil to stick, but 170°C was so hot it began to melt the material. The lesson here is simple: ditch the idea of a universal number. Your perfect temperature is a unique combination of your specific leather and foil. 2. Pressure and Dwell Time: The Balancing Act Now for the final two variables: Pressure and Dwell Time. This is the balancing act that separates good work from great work. Too little pressure? Your foil won't stick, leaving you with a weak, patchy design. Too much pressure? You'll get a deep, warped emboss and edges that look fuzzy instead of sharp. The goal is a firm, even press—without it, your design will look inconsistent, with some areas perfect and others completely blank. Then there's dwell time. A stamp that's too fast won't give the foil time to bond, leading to a flimsy transfer. Leave it on too long, though, and you’ll find the edges of your design starting to bleed, your leather getting scorched, or the foil losing its vibrancy. Tips from the field: One Redditor shared success with 150–170°C for 2–5 seconds, adjusting per leather type (Reddit, 2023). For large stamps, pros recommend keeping dwell time as short as possible while making sure pressure is even, to avoid half-clean, half-muddy logos. Think of it like cooking steak—too little heat and it’s raw, too much and you’re chewing charcoal. The magic lies in that middle ground. 3. The Overlooked Factor: Color Here’s a factor most people overlook: color. You might assume all foils are created equal, but you'd be wrong. The pigment and metallic composition of each foil color demands its own unique handling of heat, pressure, and dwell time. In other words, don’t assume one “perfect” setting works across all colors. Multi-color sets are great because you can experiment side-by-side and dial in quickly. Step-By-Step Troubleshooting Workflow Start with clean leather – wipe off oil, dust, residue. Baseline test – pick a mid-temperature (say 110–120°C), medium pressure, 2-second press. Climb the ladder – adjust in small steps: +10°C, +0.5 seconds, or a touch more pressure. Record everything – keep notes per foil color and leather type. Future you will thank present you. Scrap first, product later – always test on offcuts before risking your main piece. FAQ: The Common Headaches Q: Why isn’t my foil sticking at all? A: Check temp and pressure first. If still failing, your leather surface might be oily or too smooth. Clean it, rough it slightly, and test again. Q: My edges are fuzzy—too much pressure or too much heat? A: Usually heat/time. If it’s spreading outward with metallic dust around, back off the temp or shorten dwell. Q: Do I need different settings for veg-tan vs PU? A: Absolutely. Veg-tan can handle higher temps. PU is heat-sensitive—shorter and cooler is safer. Why is the right foil so important? The real magic of mastering temperature, pressure, and time only happens when you have a foil you can trust. A professional-grade foil offers: Consistent Results: You can rely on the same settings and get the same great results every time. No more guessing. Predictable Performance: It eliminates the frustration of a "lottery ticket" batch where each roll behaves differently. Creative Freedom: A good foil set gives you the variety you need to experiment with different colors and finishes, knowing they will all perform reliably. Final Thoughts Mastering hot foil stamping is less about luck and more about a methodical approach. It's the art of finding the perfect balance between temperature, pressure, and dwell time. When you finally get these three in sync, you’ll see the difference firsthand: your work will transform from "okay" to "outstanding." With the right tools and a little practice, you can turn every project into a masterpiece. About Jinglin Jinglin was born out of a passion for embossing craftsmanship and a pursuit of personalized customization. In exploring traditional techniques, we discovered that embossing is not just a decorative process, but a form of artistic expression that gives each creation a unique shine and texture. As a result, we are dedicated to creating high-quality embossing machines and custom brass dies to help creators bring their design dreams to life. We are committed to providing craft enthusiasts with high-quality, affordable tools and materials, enabling them to enjoy the creative process and achieve remarkable results. References Leatherworker.net. (2023). Best temperature for leather foil stamping: 110°C vs 120°C vs 130°C. Available at: https://leatherworker.net/forum/[Accessed 18 Sept. 2025]. Reddit. (2022). Beginner question: best temp for foil stamping PU leather. Available at: https://www.reddit.com/r/Leatherworking/[Accessed 18 Sept. 2025]. Reddit. (2023). Advice for hot foil stamping: tips on pressure and dwell time. Available at: https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/[Accessed 18 Sept. 2025]. More Guides & Tutorials Which Maxita Hot-Foil Machine Actually Fits Your Bench?,2025, Jinglin. The Ultimate Guide to Maxita Hot Foil Stamping: Master Your EC-27 & EC-17, 2025, Jinglin. Maxita EC-17 vs. EC-27: Which Leathercraft Machine Is Right for You?, 2025, Jinglin. Maxita Hot Foil Stamping Machines Comparison: EC-17 vs. EC-27 and Holder Types, 2025, Jinglin. 3-Line Foil Stamping Guide: Maxita EC-27 & EC-17 Tutorial, 2025, Jinglin. Detailed Causes & Solutions for Gold Stamping Failure: Guide for Leather Hot Stamping Users, 2025, Jinglin. Hot Foil Stamping Machine FAQ: Common Issues and Practical Solutions, 2025, Jinglin. Maxita Hot Stamping Machine: Leather Craft Embossing Guide, 2024, Jinglin.

Thank you dikman! That is the type of torch I have, so I will keep at it. Thanks Doogmiester! Do you think it's a standard thread pitch and size? I've heard Singer screws are all different types of thread arrangements. Any suggestions where to buy a new screw? Thanks Friquant! I will fine tune it that way and get them equal. Alzilla, I agree it may come down to drilling.... Will keep y'all posted when I have some time to tackle it this weekend. Thanks again!!!

Well chuck, it's that time of the year where it's starts to warm up on the approach to summer here in Oz, i'm guessing it will start to cool down for you. The canola crops around the district are maturing, they smell like rotten cabbage for about 3-4 weeks then dry out for harvesting. I've been busy weed spraying, then slashing,soon followed by fire breaks, they're compulsory for land holders . Are they compulsory in the US ? The width varies from one local shire to the next, but average 1.8 mtr wide, but I make mine 3-4 times wider to be sure . HS

There is a thread on this very topic in this forum. I have a holster like that I bought many moons ago for my K frame. It was made by Tex Shoemaker, which unfortunately has gone out of business. Steve

Looks good. If you can find a Singer patcher treadle stand I bet it would fit perfectly. kgg

I bought 2 of em . . . asked the lady if it was a Singer . . . she said yes . . . loaded it up . . . got it home . . . then saw that it didn't have the "Singer" across the middle like the one in the picture. Had to go buy another one . . . checked it this time. Yep . . . they are one solid platform for sure. May God bless, Dwight

If you want equal lift, here's how to do it.

Yes, the inner is definitely still lifting higher than the outer, but they're closer to equal than before, and both are lifting higher overall than they were before. The outer used to do almost nothing.

That's some serious stitching! Well done.

Nice effin' job, that item should be around for decades, given the proper care