Trox

Hi, I once had the same problem with my 600 W (220v single) Cobra servo motor. Then they sent us an fix, a small black tape piece in an envelope. I put the tape bit in place and the servo worked just fine. Very good low speed control, but I lost some of the top speed. That must have been a couple of years ago now, but it still work fine; no changes yet. The Cobra motor looks very similar to the motor in the video (different color only). I remember it was very sensitive to the color shades on the paper modification I tried before the fix arived. With lighter color, more top speed and less low speed control. So the best fix for the optical sensor is something dark that reflect less light. I just wanted to mention that the fix worked fine for me. However it will not help for the motor in question here, with the magnetic speed control. Perhaps posting some pictures will help, there might be similar motors out there of other brands that work fine (or worse). That's likely since it's a Chinese product. It will also help others to know what to stay away from in the future. We should have a topic about different motors, where we could compare them to each other. That would be very helpful for the future. Thanks Tor

This machine has an inbuilt bobbin winder and inside it you will find a black rubber O ring that perhaps need to be changed. It's been some time since I looked in to my own 267-373, I never had any trouble with it. But the winder is adjustable, if I remember it correctly. You will find the service manual in the download section https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/Support/downloads/index.html?action=search&prop0=%2Fcommons%2Fdownload%2Fpublic%2F267%2F&prop1= My machine came with an extra such black rubber O ring, so I guess it's a normal "wear" part. If the O ring is worn out it will be to small and will not make proper contact with the shaft, the result will be like yours. Check it out. Good luck! Tor

If you need some aftermarket Pfaff parts (less expensive) to modify you can buy them here http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ Original Pfaff parts are expensive and too expensive to do experiments on. Tor

I did not realize that this was an old topic, I guess brass stamps is more hot today. They heat better than magnesium and you can get them pretty cheap. Anyway 40$ for a magnesium maker stamp is not bad. Tor

Hi, what material is this stamp made of, is it of magnesium? Will it work well heated? I too have a delerin stamp and had it for years now. It's durable but it does not leave a very deep impression. It's too small with to many letters on it (that's my own fault) and I have the same problems as Timbo has with centering. Tor

On those Tandy french edgers the safety iron on both sides of the blade are often of uneven thickness and to thick. I remember I had to to take of material on both sides of it before I polished it on my buffing wheel. I took off all the blacking on it and it performed pretty well after that. I bet you could even polished it on your stropping board, that black color comes of easy. Any top side burr´s you can remove with an small ceramic stone or anything else you have laying around. Its not a difficult job, because its not very hard steel. You can afford buying a new one if you f#### it up the first time. If you use a magnifying glass on it you will see if it has any burr on the edge (if you do not feel any and it still will not cut good). You will also see how ruff the steel surface is when its not polished, then you understand why it will not glide true the leather. It has to be sharp as an skiving knife, but this steel is much softer. Its normally an easy job.

To make a groove with an edge beveler work only on very light weight leather. Leather you are able to make a sharp outside (90 degree) bend on (Flesh side out). I think your leather are to thick and stiff to use that method. And you must remember to polish/strop your edger first too. I polish mine on the edge of my stroping board. On that thickness you must use an V gouge down to aprox half the thickness of the material and skive away material on each side of the gouge to make the "V" wider. Wet with some water and fold it up nicely.

Well I use old CS, HF Osborne and new Ron´s tools. They are all good. Most of the old stuff of french edgers are good, English makers call them skirt shaves I believe. You better get different sizes at least a couple (big and small) They are useful on a variety of different tasks, from skiving, making miter joints to setting snaps in thick material (skive away material around a hole when the leather are to thick). I would not know how do without them. In fact I never was without one, I first bought an cheap tandy tool that I polished an modified. Then later I changed that out for a better tool. However, the tandy tool worked well after modifying. I think they where called craftool or the leather factory when I bought my first french edger. Perhaps they used better steel than today and perhaps not. Soft steel gets sharp and thats what a french edger have to be. You do not cut in to a cutting board with an french edger and thats perhaps the reason the cheap tool worked pretty well. They come in both straight and curved bottoms, but they do the same job. I see Bruce sell them from 50 to 100$ for good old ones, they always been of the most expensive among the edgers. Tor

Hi Simon, adjustable V gouges has been around for many years. I cannot date the tool, but for sure before 2WWW. CS Osbore # 128 is such tool I use, then I follow up on each side of the V gouge with an french edger. I remove material on each side so the leather will fold easier. The V gouge only do half the job, you got to follow up with a french edger or simmilar tool to remove enough material. (make the gouge wider). On light weight leather you can also the gouge with a normal edge beveler. You fold the leather over the edge of your working table with the flesh side out. Then you run your edge bevler over the bend and it will create the gouge. This method its safer on light weight leather. Tor

Every thing was better before, I have a old Adler class 5-27 from the 1930'ties who still is like new. However it's no point in making machines that last a 100 years, what will Gregg and the other dealer' live of then? I guess the sewing machine technology will move a little faster this century than the last. 50 years between every new model will be bad for business.

My mistake, I guess that was to cheap. But that proves my point, 7000$ for the new 969 H is good price.

I see that Andreas with Sieck international Germany sell this machine (new) for about half the price 7224,- US$ of what Weaver wants for it http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/new-saddlery-sewing-machines/details/5741/. It does not look to be a Eco model either, (I cannot tell the different between them by the subclass number). Anyway, this is a huge price difference. I do not remember the suggested retail price for it, I only knows its very expensive in Norway (like everything else around here). However, a new 205-370 is around 5000 $, and this is twice the machine. I think they will begin to sell when the price comes down to a "normal" level, perhaps after a year or two. Somebody is taking a huge profit when its possible to sell them for 7000 $, thats for sure. Tor

The need is there but the funds aren't

Its always the cheapest option, no need for a test:)

http://www.usacuttingdie.com/home.html

Please post another pic of your finished modification. Thanks Tor

Job well done Jimi, looks very good. Old Pfaff machines are good refurbishing objects because of there excellent steel quality and craftsmanship. The only negative side to it is expensive spare parts.

Keep it dry and polished.

Thank you Constabulary. Hi Stella, my computer (containing those files) has crashed. Until I've get it fixed, I'm unable to upload the manuals. You got the help you needed anyway. Tor

Hi Simon, you probably got them from me because I posted them here earlier. I know this tool maker, his name is Mark. He made a burnished and a awl for me earlier. I tried to talk him in to making a plough gauge too. But I'm afraid he is to busy with his own many projects. Mark could not afford buying leather tools so he made his own. He is a great tool maker. Tor

Thank you Celticleather, I will try that the next time. Perhaps it was extra loud since it been standing idle for some time too. Now I have the courage to try it again, I can perhaps locate the parts that vibrate (It they do) and eliminate some of the loud noise. Thanks again, this was just the kind of answer I was looking for.

Thank you all for the answers and sorry for the late replay. The oven has no fan. I took off the back plate and cleaned out all dust/dirt before starting it the first time. It had a timer inside set to 12 second, a 3 position switch, a infrared light tube and a fuse. I could not see the heat elements because they where protected with a plate and placed inside the ovens ceiling. There where no other visible components, only good organized wiring inside it. It looked pretty straight forward. Electrathon, I know what a transformer hum sounds like,but this sound is what I will call horrible. I looked true the wiring inside, it was very well organized and looked like it was made for high current. In fact I have never seen any such electrical component better organized than this. It was built by someone that was very concerned about safety, thats for sure. That is why I wondered it perhaps should make some noise during its boost period. Not as much as this one, thought its an old "machine". I would have asked the previous ovner if I could, but I do not know his whereabouts for the time being. I had never heard the term "flash activator" either, before I started searching about it on the Internet. I suspect it is a British term. It makes perfectly sense when you think of its use; to activate the glue on shoe soles. When you turn it on the red light tube produce a bit of heat, then you set it to the 12 seconds boost mode and the heat is intense. http://www.standardgroup.co.uk/ http://www.standardgroup.co.uk/shoe-repair-ancillary-items The Withfield and Wylie LTD Company Kettering UK who made this and many other shoe machines, is now a part of the Standard group. They make similar ovens today and you can see the timer is placed outside on the front panel on them. Perhaps there are some shoemakers/cobblers out there that use these that know how these are suppose to sound like. I just want to know if it worth using more time on, before I start searching for any errors on it. I can always send an email to the Standard group and ask them if its a well known problem or not. But I am afraid they just will tell me to send it in for refurbishing or buy a new one. Thanks Tor

I like that face bag, you have a good hand and head....... well done. Tor

Thank you, but I do not need to buy that edge paint anymore because I bought the Italian Giardini edge Paint instead; http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ I am very happy with that edge paint so far. It is a new and time consuming product where you do not have to burnish and round (edge bevel) the edges anymore. It works with heat treatment as well. Allot of nice fashion colors like fluorescent and glitter edges, along with normal matte and shiny colors. You can even get your own colors mixed. The best are that you can buy small quantities of it and you get a free trial pack to test them out. Their main partners are the Stahl group and OMAC leather machinery. I am very happy with the paint I have tested so far, it gives a "stunning" result. When I ordered my first trail packs (fashion and standard packs) I had to pay for the shipping my self of course, but I received eight 250 ML bottles with different paint for free. That's two liter of different edge paint for free. Make sure you order their roller applicator-pen or buy one from Tandy (on sale now to 9 $) or from Campbell Randall. Because this paint has to be applied in a thick layer to build an round edge. And this paint will not come off easy, its like its welded to the edge. Try it out yourself and see. Thanks Tor

Hi Bruce, the plough do look good, but it would look better with some parts made of steel. I love brass , but its kind of simple/easy material to build tools of. Just a couple of parts in polished steel would do the trick. Anyway, nice talking to you again and I hope you are well. PS. I am looking for a wide smooth duckbill pliers and some (small) oval punches, got something that you have not listed yet. Thanks Tor