katsass

From the grumpy old guy: Since I haven't posted anything in some time except comments typical of a grumpy old guy, I thought I'd stick this in ---. just finished it. Just a simple sheath with a bit of 'gator. Hand stitched, with welts just burnished and polished. Pretty straightforward. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; I agree with Ray. I'd sand them a bit, moisten, burnish, allow to dry, re-sand as necessary and re-burnish. Instead of beeswax, I use a touch of glycerin soap --- Neutrogena bar soap works well --- just a bit, dampened and rubbed on with my finger. Allow to dry, dye or stain and finish --- I use an acrylic as a finish. Mike

Michael, remember --- it's just one grumpy old guy's opinion, and saying stuff like you did could ruin my image. Mike

Some time ago I was working on a prototype speed holster that needed a 'standoff' of almost 1 3/4". I cut the pieces and epoxied them together and put them in a press to cure. Used brass wood screws dipped in the same epoxy to attach a belt loop. The thing worked but I decided that it really wasn't practical so in the scrap drum it went,, BUT, that 1 3/4' stack is still holding up. Just a suggestion. The welt on the holster is only 3/8" thick plus two thicknesses of leather of the holster itself --- total of 7/8", and is glued an hand stitched in the normal way .A couple of pics. Mike

FWIW from the grump: I'm not a fan of IWB holsters in general, BUT, in this case I believe that you have put together just about the best contemporary IWB design I've seen in a long damned time. It's simple and not over-engineered. Looks like it should do what a holster is intended to do, without all the excesses of so many of today's designs. Mike

Well, I have an open back original Hoyte rig from about 1955 or so, that works the same way --- but it ain't square. The concept appeared good, but too damned many of us dropped and damaged an expensive shooter out of them when it decided to walk right out of the damned thing. . Then there were the open front, or 'break front' holsters many of us carried back in the 60s & 70s. The newest and neatest --- that didn't work out too well either. Take a look at the book "Packing Iron", you'll see that even back in the 1800s they were playing with 'innovation' --- and mostly, it didn't work out so well. Too many drawbacks that outweigh the positives, that's why I'm pretty much a traditionalist in my work. Mike P.S. You want innovation? How about the 'Safety Speed' holster, or 'clamshell' as we all called them. It proved to be a bad design also. Any holster that relies upon some kind of hinge, spring or gizmo is just begging for failure. OH, and here is a pic of one of your new innovative open backed rigs --- from arounf 1960 or so. JMHO

FWIW from the old grump: Holsters are made to hold handguns --- and handguns are still made in basically the same shape as they were since the earliest days. All any kind of gun is, is a machine that has a place to hold and control some kind of propellant and a projectile, attached to a tube to make the projectile where you want it to go. They can be made to shoot one time or a whole bunch of times with innovation, but they still retain a basic, ergonomic or usefull shape. About all the innovation that can be had for a holster (and still do what it's made to do) is in it's 'enhancements' or decoration. JMHO Mike

FWIW from the old grump; The blade looks like (or similar to) one that I use. Looks like it's missing it's handle, which would have a set screw in it to allow the blade to extend for comfortable use, as far as needed. The handle also allows the blade to be turned and hide the sharpened edge from harm. Mine is about 100 years old, as it belonged to my grandfather and I have known it for almost 70 years. Mine is a 'Murphy' (brand name) knife and is still made in the U.S., and comes with a pre-ground blade in different shapes

From the old grump; Yuor leather looks damned good to me Shooter --- can't say much about a pink handgun though. Mike

From the grumpy old guy; I don't mind the questions, but I do dislike the person asking a question arguing with me after I answer it. If I feel that the person is worth my time to give further assistance, I'll generally do it in private messages. I will say that my method of instruction can be a bit caustic however, but it usually accomplishes some pretty good results. This is probably the result of being taught by a most exacting old man, much grumpier than I, and one that demanded good results. Mike

particle; you done damned good, especially for such an ugly shooter. Mike

From the old grump: Looks really well done. As an aside, the 3" M-24 happened to be a favorite off duty carry gun for me. I still have it and now generally carry it when out in the boonies or when entering the wilds of the 'Greater Los Angeles Area'. Mike

FWIW from the grump: BondoBob has it right. I learned to stitch from a WWI cavalry soldier who told me that the U.S. Army would not accept any horse tack that was machine sewn, back when he was an enlisted man. It had to be hand stitched with waxed linen thread. On all of my stuff I use only waxed linen, and and hand stitch everything --- never have even tried to use a machine. Mike

My question also -------

FWIW from the old grump: I dilute all my dye at the minimum of 50/50. From there I will go down as far as 30 to one --- denatured alcohol to dye. It's a matter of trial and error, but for the color you want I'd try 10 to 1 and have a go on some scrap of the same leather you want to use. --- with a minimum of two coats and most likely 3 or 4. Remember different leather takes the dye differently, AND a shot of neatsfoot oil will darken it more, as well as a a finish coat --- so take that into consideration. You may even have to go down to 20 to 1, but the scrap will quickly show you. To measure I find that a large, calibrated baby medicine dropper works pretty well. Available at the local drug store. Mike. .

From the grump; Damned nice work. Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy; first, get Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters". Second, read it, don't just look at the pictures. That will give you the basic 'need-to-know' stuff --- such as how to make a basic pattern, how to set the cant angle, how to stitch, etc. Then --- take your time. Mike

From the grumpy old guy; I like it. Mike

FWIW from the old grump:I agree with Lobo, That leather wasn't the best in the world at the time it was made. Now, 60+ years later (or more), without care, it will be dry and brittle --- any attempt to re-stitch or bring it back into shape will likely result in more damage. Mike P.S. I believe that the case or shell of those things were well molded and a lacquer finish was used to to assist in firming and maintaining their shape. The stuff impregnates most of the leather and is difficult to work with without some real expert knowledge. M.

From the grump; YES --- need pics, as Dwight says. There are a few versions of Nambu auto pistols, but, in addition there is a Nambu revolver. Gotta know of just which one you speak, and what the thing looks like. Mike

oldtimer; I'm much of an anachronism in this day and age I guess. I use cash or checks. I do have a couple of credit cards, but don't use them much at all --- basically only in some kind of emergency. I don't carry a cell phone unless I'm going out of town, and no one but my son and wife have the number. I pay $20 every 90 days to keep it going, and have something over $300 in credit on it that can be used..Once in a while I use it to make a long-distance call, since I've put in enough to cover anything I need to do on the 'phone'. It doesn't have a camera in it, and don't think it can even send text --- but it works when I need it. So, in answer to your question, there are still of us old guys the do use a checkbook. Mike

The only one I know of was unfortunately,( VERY unfortunately) Dave Cole (DCKnives) who was a member on this forum until he passed away. You may look up his website --- it's still active --- and see if there is anything in the tutorial portion there. He would inlay photos etc. in some of his work Mike

Not stupid, just too much too soon. As I say, get the basics down well. I did my first inlay after 30 or so years of making holsters. Mike

If the 'katsass' ain't there, it ain't mine. Mike

Lord luv a duck! Although not directed at (or to) me (but with my name mentioned) the grumpy old guy will jump in jump in. What was the first thing that I mentioned to you? SLOW THE @$@$% DOWN! Have your basics well in hand. That includes cutting, stitching, and all that stuff. As to the inlay type stuff? --- think silhouette, remember?. That implies (if not specifically stated) strong contrast between background and subject. It also implies simple design, at least to start with. Geometric shapes are ideal as a beginning, like squares rectangles, or shapes with gentle curves. Look at your subject in the form of solid black and white --- NO DETAIL. You need a subject that will produce a complete and recognisable figure --- without the need for distinguishing marks, lines etc. (I have no idea what is going on with the front end of that horse) AGAIN, trying to run before you can even get to all fours is going to frustrate you more than a penguin will become, trying to peel a banana. Mike.