katsass

I wouldn't think so, I'm pretty sure that when dry, it will begin to crack with the first sign of bending. Mike

OK, from the old grump --- again. This is purely speculative since I don't have the shooter and pattern in my grubby mitts, BUT, it looks to me that I would move the stitch line below the trigger guard up a bit, and the stitch line along the top of the slide in --- a bit. How's that for being totally indefinite? I can 'feel it' and 'see it' if the two pieces are in my paws, but, again, to say how much, I can't do in this manner. I can show you, in person, but can't tell you Mike

steelhawk, I should have added that, although a viable way to carry in some situations, it is not all that comfortable nor as good as many other options. I personally would never carry an SOB rig --- and I don't make any. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I agree with shooter. As the pattern sits, it appears to me that the gun will try to drop to as close to the stitch line under the trigger guard as it can. Figuring in the thickness of the leather used, and with that in mind, you can see that the muzzle will most likely protrude from the holster's toe. It also appears that the finished holster will be loose, or at least ultimately lose retention as the leather begins to relax. I wish that I could tell you how much to tighten it up, but I can't. I draw a new pattern for every holster I make and, for me, it's actually a matter of eyeballing things to become aesthetically pleasing, and just 'knowing' or 'feeling' how much to allow for the thing to fit the gun. I just scribble on a cheap manila folder, use an eraser a lot, and modify the idea in my mind as it hits the paper and as needed. I do use a measuring instrument --- to draw a straight line now and then (mainly to ensure a straight stitch line), but I don't count those infernal little bitty marks on it. When used once, the pattern goes in the trash. I couldn't even begin to produce a pattern on a computer at all, let alone as well as you do. Mike

Just a story about the butt-down, small of the back position of carry: Back when I was a firearms instructor for the Dept I worked for, we had a requirement for live fire quals with off duty weapons --- utilizing the holster in which the O/D weapon was normally carried, and from the position normally carried. One of the officers showed up with his duty weapon (it was acceptable to carry it off duty) stuck down in his trousers, in the small of his back, sans any holster, and with the butt pointing down. I asked if this was his normal, off duty, method of carry. He stoutly said this was how he always carried off duty, and that he had become quite proficient with this type of carry. I ensured that the weapon (an M-439 Smith auto) was empty and told him that we would give it a dry run, that on my signal he was to draw as rapidly as he was comfortable with, and come on to target. I gave the signal, he slipped his hand down his back, got a grip on the shooter, pulled, twisted his hand (as I knew he MUST). The front sight caught in his skivvies, then attacked his ass (leaving a long bloody scratch), continued up as he pulled (giving him one hell of a wedgie) then stopped when the skivvies refused to tear out. That's when he lost complete control of the weapon and it hit the grass of the range. He was immediately de-qualified from off duty carry. He returned (rather sheepishly) the following day with a brand new belt holster, worn in the 3:30 position, and was re-qualified for off duty carry. Butt down, small of the back, carry is not very viable. THe "Mexican Carry" is nothing more than a strong side carry, moved to the small of the back, and IS viable. Mike

Just one more comment from the old grump; Anywhere you have corner --- round it, even on the backing for the clip. Any sharp cut corner in leather will ultimately fray out. Mike

From the grump; AIN'T NO WAY! ---- He'll hurt his little self!

From the old grumpy guy ---- the katsass:

Good point by Dwight --- I don't tool anything anymore, but back when I did, I'd stuff a DAMP, (not soggy wet) warm washcloth down into the open, unmolded holster. Let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes and then go to molding. Woks well and doesn't mess up the tooling. Dwight --- you're making me remember things I didn't know that I forgot. Mike

Actually, it's nine layers of leather --- counting the 2/3oz lining leather. Mike

With a good awl --- and patience, you can go through as much leather as needed. Like the welt on this holster I made a while ago. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; Looks nice, BUT. I've made a few holsters over the years, but have never seen anything quite like this. You have nothing there to provide any retention. You need to stitch a line down the trigger guard side of the shooter. This stitch line, which (in distance) needs to be roughly 1/2 the thickness of the widest part of the gun plus the thickness of the leather used --- runs down the trigger guard side of the gun's outline---and establishes and provides the basic retention. That, and good wet molding, keeps the gun in place by friction. That's why most all holsters are shaped as they are --- kind of close to the shape of the gun being placed in them. It's a very nice looking and well made piece, but, unfortunately, your design is not too practical as a working holster IMO.A good holster design is a balance between protection of the gun, accessibility to the gun, comfort to the wearer, and the ability to keep the gun secure in the holster. Aesthetics are kind of the last thing that you worry about ---IMHO Mike P.S. Upon further observation I notice that the mag release seems to be covered by leather. If so, it seems possible that during the draw, or upon re-holstering, the button may be inadvertently be depressed causing the problem of a dropped magazine. That ain't good. Mike

For your benefit, I'm very glad that it was just the lack of a coma --- rather than an odorous 'significant other'. Have a great weekend! Mike

Well girl, you had me going on this one. When I first read the description of you posting, I thought that you had some sort of an interpersonal relationship with a gentleman of questionable hygiene or, possibly, one that was addicted to the consumption of raw garlic sandwiches; (as in a man that smells nasty). Since that does not appear to be the case, and that it was just that you accidentally dropped a coma from it's proper location while typing, I'll refrain from further comment. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; not knowing what your primary items of construction are, right off I see a few things that you can do. BUT, prior to that I'll say the 'edge-coat' is a solution to a non-existent problem if you are using it on veg-tanned leather. The stuff is for application to the edges of your leatherwork,BUT proper burnishing techniques achieve a MUCH better finished product --- without that nasty 'plastic' appearance. IMO it's just plain nasty stuff, and I won't even have it in my shop. The first thing that comes to mind is that you can case the leather and burnish it, to smooth the back side. Depending on the project, that may not hold up too well though. The second is to purchase a better grade of leather, and the third is to line your projects with 2oz (or so) veg-tanned 'tooling' leather or maybe equal weight of pig skin. I primarily make holsters, and line most all of my stuff. BUT. I certainly would not try to coat the back side of anything with edge coat. JMHO Mike

From the old grump; I primarily make holsters, and a few knife sheaths. Here's a replica of the pictured holster (the original was made about 100 years ago) and a knife sheath. I used my normal finish on both --- two coats (misted on with an airbrush) of a 50/50 mix of Mop and Glo (the floor stuff) and water. When dry, followed with a very light touch of neutral Kiwi shoe polish rubbed in by hand and buffed. Been using the stuff for over 40 years with no problems. Mike .

FWIW from the old grump; For 'mechanical' application of dyes I used a small piece of sponge --- clean, unused sponge --- and gloves. Wipe one coat on vertically, wait a bit and apply a second coat at 90 degrees to the first. If needed, a third coat at 45 degrees to the preceding one. As to thinning down dyes, First, I refuse to use a water based dye(?) I primarily make holsters, and the wet molding process will screw up a dye job quicker than a cat on a mouse. On solvent based (oil dye IS solvent based) use DENATURED alcohol. I dilute all dyes at least 50/50 alcohol to dye, and, at times as much as 30 to 1 alcohol to dye. I generally use an airbrush to apply my dye. I use the absolutely most inexpensive one that can be found (quick-change rig from Harbor Freight --- @ about $7.00 for the brush and bottles --- I replace about once a month.) It's not very adjustable at all, but puts out a lot of dye, and two or three coats allows enough dye to penetrate so as not to scratch off as many find when using a 'true' (expensive) airbrush. Also, I buff the leather after dying when the leather is dry. I use the same airbrush to apply my (thinned down) acrylic finishes. I just stay off the leather a way and just 'mist' on two coats. Hope this helps. Mike

Well guy, I guess that I have to say --- that Glock rig is about the best looking thing for a Glock that I have seen. I also like the enhanced pancake on the 1911 (long slide?). I don't get much call for any 'enhancements' like B/W, but done as well as you do, your work stands out well. Great work on all. Mike

Shooter, you done good!. Generally I don't care much for overlay on a piece, but in this case you did it perfectly, and matched to the grips so well one wonders if you wandered into frog breeding just to get the match! Mike

From the old grump; I prefer to cut, dye stitch, then wet mold. I've never been able to get comfortable with trying to mold prior to stitching, but I hand stitch all of my stuff. Mike

I had mine made by lasergiftcreations.com. Really satisfied with it, and. I don't get my digits shmucked. It produces a clean clear impression with just one good shmuck from a 16oz maul. She is a member on this forum, but I can't remember her name. Mike

Josh, as before, very nicely done. Mike

Very nice work. Mike

FWIW from the grump --- again. I personally don't give much of a hoo-ha (a highly technical and politically correct term) about a 24 hour difference in the manufacturing process. My customers wait for my stuff and fully understand that old farts don't do anything quickly, or that I may want to go fishing or shoot some trap. They do expect that I care about the longevity of my stuff, and know that I have holsters, properly cared for, in good shape, still in use, made by me 30+ years ago. As a matter of fact I just had an old customer drop by, hand me some cash and a brand new gun while saying that the one I built him in 1979 was stolen --- along with the gun. Then all he said was, "make me another to fit the new one as good as that last one, call me when it's done", and off he went. Proper construction includes a shot of oil after wet molding IMO. Mike

FWIW from the old grump ---- sound reasoning, so, ditto. Mike