Wizcrafts

I've seen mention of that foot in a Singer 45 class manual. It is a shoe sole foot that is curved to the right to clear shoe uppers as the sole is sewn around the perimeter..

I have been able to sew inside the toe area on half boots and most flat shoes to resew loose threads, using my Singer 29k71 patcher. The nose is just 1 inch wide and tall. The main person in the factory photo is sewing a side seam on a 29-4. Patchers cannot sew soles, just uppers.

If you really need to sew 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch stacks of leather, you will need either a 441 class, 205 class, or Campbell Randall machine. The 441 refers to the Juki TSC-441. It is the machine which gave birth to the Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew and multitudes of other clones that represent about 75% of the professional leather sewing machines in use today. The 441 first hit the market around 1989 and was setup to sew cloth, webbing, buffing wheels and things of that nature. The 441 is built in Japan, is still made, and sells for about $5900.00 new, or about $2500 to $3,000 used. Clones, like the Ferdinand Bull, Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4 and Techsew 5100 sell new for under $3,000, which is half the price of the original machines they are based upon. The 205 class refers to the venerable Adler 205-370 leather stitcher. This machine was available before the Juki 441 and was the choice of many top notch leather holster makers and harness shops. It was favored by the Mennonites and Amish because of its German origins and dependability. There are some clones available from Cowboy and other builders. New, they sold for up to $6,500. Used Adler 205s can be had for about $3,000. New 205 clones sell for well over $3,000. The Adler 205 was discontinued about two years ago when they released their model 969 ECO, which Weaver sells for just over $10,000. The Randal machines were specifically made to sew harness and have been around since the late 1800s. They are sill in production in Texas and sell for a base price of around the mid 6k figure. Used Randalls can go for the high 3ks through the mid 4ks. All of these machines can sew 3/4 inch of real leather with very heavy thread (#415). The Campbell Randall can sew through plywood and even a copper penny! Methinks you are going to need to triple your budget to buy a suitable harness stitcher that can sew between 1/2 and 3/4 inch of veg-tan or bridle leather. However, if you can double your budget, you can buy a new Cowboy CB3200, or Techsew 3850, both of which sew up to 1/2 inch.

The best way to explain the limitations of the 206RB and similar compound feed walking foot machines is that the way they are built, the inside and outside feet are linked together to alternate up and down, with a maximum height that is reached when the descending needlebar's bottom thread guide hits the top of one or both feet, or when the inside crankshafts hit the presser bars and stop moving. Further, walking foot machines require at least 1/8 inch clearance on top of the material to allow them to alternate and do their thing. This usually happens at a maximum material thickness of 3/8 inch, but can occur at a lesser height. An eighth of an inch is equal to 8 ounce thickness leather. This works out to a maximum sewing thickness of three layers of 7-8 ounce leather, not 8-9 ounces. IOW: 24 ounces would be the usual maximum sewing thickness on a Consew 206RB or equivalent. If you need to machine sew 27 ounces of veg-tan leather, the Consew 206RB is not the machine for that job. Not only will it be trying to climb higher than its mechanical limitations, but the maximum thread size it's meant to handle is too light for such a thick stack. You will need a stronger machine that is built to sew thicker leather with thicker thread and bigger needles than the 206 and similar machines.

The Consew 255 takes standard type 111 (Singer 111w155) presser feet. It also uses standard walking foot system 135x17 (round point) and 135x16 (leather point) needles. Note that there are several flavors of leather points, each yielding a different lay of the thread and bottom stitch appearance. It takes a large M style bobbin.

If we lived in the quilters' world we could use the thread tension scales made for that market. I see this device in my Wawak catalog and advertised by Superior Threads. But, it is designed to take the bobbins used in domestic machines, not most leather machines, generally speaking. If such a device was made available to users of 441 and 205 type machines, we could more easily set the bobbin tension whenever we changed bobbin thread. With a fixed bobbin tension, all one would have to do is tweak the top tension for different sizes of top thread. As it is, we must adjust both the top and bottom when changing spools, colors, sizes and brands of thread, in order to keep the knots centered betwixt the layers. As has been mentioned, when you change from a larger diameter to a smaller diameter thread, on top or in the bobbin, the existing tensions are bound to decrease, but not always equally. The top tension is also affected by the amount of tension in the thread guides, the check spring, and the lower roller on the 441 and 205 machines (and some others). Furthermore, the replacement bobbins for the 441 and 205 machines are not always precision made, in my experience. Some of them are longer or shorter than others. Shorter is no problem as they remain inside the end of the case where the bobbin spring alone sets the tension on the thread. But longer bobbins protrude from the end of the bobbin case and can press against the frame of the shuttle, increasing the tension on the thread beyond what you set on the spring tension screw. This happens on my Cowboy CB4500 and on my Singer 31-15, both of which have horizontal axis bobbins on the left end of the machine. I don't notice this problem on the vertical axis, top loading bobbins in my Singer walking foot machines. Oh, by the way, black bonded thread is often double dyed, which sometimes results in it coming off the spool like a coil spring. This increases the thread tension and can even cause twisty knots and thread being thrown out of the tensioners to happen at the worst of times.

Every shoe repair shop has one or more patcher machines. Some are Singer, some are Adler and others are Claes brand. These machines are a must have if one is asked to repair stitches inside a cylindrical object, or to sew a patch over a pocket on a vest, or onto the sleeve of a jacket, or to resew something on a shoe upper, or replace Velcro or elastic on a shoe or replace a zipper in a boot. They can also be used to resew internal sections of wallets that have thread going or gone. I use mine for all of the above, plus, resewing and replacing strap tabs and zippers on purses and other bags, sewing cue stick cases, sewing certain otherwise inaccessible areas on rifle bags, sewing patches and hatbands/sweatbands on hats, and last but not least, darning tears in boots, vests, jackets, purses and other soft leather and denim goods, So, in a nutshell, if you repair leather things, you'll probably need a patcher. If you only make new things of your own design and choosing, you probably won't need one. With their little tiny bobbins, the 29-4 patchers are only good for repairs, not production. Finally, when a customer asks you to sew a torn seam on their valuable-to-them purse, wallet, boot or shoe, tooth marks aren't going to bother them.

The Chandler CM406RB-1 was built by Consew. It was their B brand, sold at lower prices than the same machines wearing a Consew badge. A dealer could explain the differences to you. I'm guessing they are all inside the body. But, despite any internal differences, I think it would be a fine acquisition for a slow speed hobby sewer.

Why beat around the bush? Check out this video of a Campbell Randall High Lift at work.

The CB3200 has only been on the market for about one year. So, it's too soon to tell how long they will perform at their specifications. All I can tell you is about how their big Brother, the CB4500 holds up. I've been using mine up to 5 days a week since July 2012 and have had no machine problems that weren't operator or thread error. i did have a push button servo motor go bad, which was replaced at no cost in a couple of business days. Mind you, we sew very slowly on the CB4500. The fastest speed with the current Family Sew motor, equipped with a 50mm pulley, is about 5 or 6 stitches per second, or ~360 per minute. I have a friend who has been sewing rifle slings, guitar straps, lined belts and holsters on an almost daily basis, on a Cobra Class 4 since 2011. He sews at about 3 stitches per second (~180 /min). At these rates, with proper oiling, the machines should last another 5 to 10 years.. Now, if you are seeking a harness grade lockstitch machine that has a long established track record, and have a really big bank account, you should check out the Campbell Randall Lockstitch machines. I learned to sew on one that was 80+ years old and was used 5 or 6 days a week to sew tugs, reins and harness for race horse stables. It used 4 or 5 cord Barbour's Irish linen thread run through Ceroxylon liquid wax. It chugged along at the blinding rate of about 200 stitches per minute and laid a stitch second to none. Machines going tapokita tapokita.

There is also the CB2500, aka GA5-1 something machines that are based upon the ancient Singer 45k machines. Adler made a similar machine called the 105. These machines are bottom feeders that can sew about 7/16 inch, with #346 thread. They have aggressive teeth on the feeder and will leave marks on the bottom layer.

If you are looking for an old used machine, a Pearson or Landis can handle the task. Then there are the out of production modern era machines, like the Number 9, the Luberto Classic, Ferdinand Bull and Tippmann Aero. Oh, sorry. Then, I think that the next step down would be a CB3200, which sews up to 1/2 inch, with compound feed and a smooth feed dog.

A Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, Union Lockstitch, Campbell Lockstitch, Juki TSC-441, Adler 205-374, or Adler 969 ECO will easily sew 36 ounces of veg-tan leather. I own a CB4500 and have managed to sew just under one inch of compressed leather. It was closer to a solid 7/8 inch actually. These machines can sew over 3/4 inch with thread sizes up to #415 bonded thread. Any one of the machines I listed will do a fine job on reins and tug straps, as well as saddles in general.

Here is a link to Henry Veenhoven on LWN. You can also contact him through his website.

I rebuild old iron Singer sewing machines as a side line at my leather shop. Some of them are jammed up from not being oiled in decades, or stored in garages or storage sheds. I oil every crank that connects to another crank and every oil hole, including those hidden under the top and back covers. Eventually, they loosen up and after lubing the gears and other cleanup, they usually come back to life in a short time. You can buy a new replacement motor and wire harness for your Class 66 for a hundred bucks, or less. That would also include a new belt. The small wheel inside the flywheel is the free motion clutch. Turning it counterclockwise disengages the internal mechanism for free winding of bobbins. If the machine tries to turn with the clutch knob backed all the way to its backstop, it need oiled inside. Use an oiler with a long thin tube to drop some oil inside the machine end of the clutch knob wheel. If that doesn't loosen it up and free the machine drive, the back end parts need to be removed and cleaned/reoiled and reassembled. This is tedious and fraught with danger for a newbie.

I'm not familiar with your Landis machine. But I am familiar with a lot of other lockstitch machines. Every time I get knots or loops of top thread on the bottom layer, it's because of one of three things. The top thread has jumped or twisted up to the top of the upper tension disks and out of the center spindle area where the spring tension is focused. This results in a complete loss of top tension and the top thread gets dragged all the way down under the material. The bobbin thread is binding inside of, or jamming coming out of the bobbin case spring or enclosure. The top thread got pulled into the bobbin race because it wasn't held back at the start of the sewing run, or because the loose starting thread got drawn down as you sewed past it. Cause number one can happen if the machine vibrates heavily as you sew, or if you are using twisty thread. Number two can be caused by unevenly wound bobbins, or by thread particles under the bobbin spring, or debris along the bobbin race. Number three can be avoided by holding onto the starting threads for at least three stitches, then carefully pulling them away from the bobbin area or throat plate slot.

Adler; If you can find a straight stitch industrial sewing machine in very good condition, chances are you can retrofit it with a roller foot conversion kit. I've pasted in a video from a dealer in the USA who sells these kits.

Did you find the threaded and tapered point spindles? I need one for sure. Where did you get yours?

I think that you might benefit from either a needle feed, or roller feed machine. If there are any industrial sewing machine dealers near you (in Belgium?), contact them to see what they have with those feed systems. The needle feed has a flat foot that can be replaced with other accessory feet that have a slot rather than a needle hole. A roller feed machine has a ball bearing rolling wheel on the left side of the needle. The wheels are made in different diameters and depths. Smaller wheels turn corners and curves more gracefully, while larger wheels are better a long straight seams. Both of these machine types are gentler on soft and thin materials and usually max out with #69 (T70) bonded thread. They do much better with thinner threads and smaller needles, like you asked about.

At least half of the Singer 111 and 153 machines I've had have threads missing from the stitch length adjusting rod. I settle on the desired length and set it with the set screws and leave it alone. In fact, the only adjuster that is in good working condition now is on the end of my Singer 139w109 long body walking foot machine.

I like your custom winders! That's nice work Constab! Where did you find the netting for the thread spool? What is it called officially?

I've kind of been wanting a Bonis (or similar) fur sewing machine for a year or two. I repair all kinds of leather and some fur covered items, including gloves, fur coats and Ugg type shoes. I should investigate if there are any clamp on/portable units made, as I've run out of room for any more machine tables.

Congrats! Did you ask Ron about thread? They sell all sizes of thread and needles that work with their machines. Otherwise, contact Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, an advertiser here, about their Cowboy brand thread. They may also still have some high end Anafil thread on hand. Otherwise, check out Superior Thread for various weights at least up to #346. Note: colors tend to be limited once you reach #346 BTW: We normally speak about thread for sewing leather in US sizes rather than the British Ticket sizes. The US sizes would be #346 and #415 (aka: T400). See this thread and needle chart for a cross reference and other technical specs.

I was only able to try out the 869 ECO at Weaver's and it blew me away. I would have a 969 in a heartbeat if I had that kind of money. No contest!

The Techsew 3850 Pro can handle lighter work to a point. Being based on the $6,000 Juki TSC-441, while targeted at large thread, thick work sewers, above 6 ounces, this scaled down clone can be fitted with thinner #19 or #20 needles that are normally used to sew with #92 bonded thread (15 pound test). You would probably need to change the tensions on the top and bobbin case and possibly also to the check spring to get properly placed knots. But, from my own experience sewing on Cobra and Cowboy 441 clone machines, it is doable. The TS-3850 looks like a very capable machine that can do all that you've asked, albeit with some adjusting. It is priced very competitively with the other name brands sold by other dealers who support our forums. In the scheme of things, it is priced in the sweet spot between the mid-level and higher end machines. The company is a supporter of Leatherworker.net and they stand behind their machines if and when buyers have problems. The basic reality is that super heavy duty 441 type machines can be dumbed down to handle thinner thread, needles and projects, if you are willing to dink with the tensions and maybe change to a slotted throat plate and remove the huge feed dog. In contrast, you simply cannot make most of the lighter duty walking foot machines sew thick leather or use thread heavier than #207, if they'll even handle that size. My solution is to have more than one machine and use the one best suited to a particular job. But that's me. As regards discounts, the best time and place to seek them is to attend one of the regional leather crafting shows where the machine dealers set up and show off their machines. You might could get a real deal in person, rather than on the phone. Most dealers would rather go home with cash in hand then load unsold heavy machines, at the end of the show. But, once you ask them to pack, palletize, insure and ship a machine by trucks across the Country, there is no room left to dicker on the price. You can also check classifieds in your State to see if anybody within driving range has a similar used machine for sale. We have a classifieds section called the Marketplace where people sell both reconditioned and used sewing machines. You might find one you like there at a price you're comfortable with. if you guys think some other machine will work better i would like to hear it, There is indeed another leather sewing machine that I can think of that does all the things you asked about and more, with the utmost smoothness and precision and has an even larger bobbin capacity. It is from Germany and is being offered to discriminating US customers seeking the ultimate stitching machine, at an unheard of introductory price, by another one of our sponsors. See the description and price here.