Wizcrafts

Use Schmetz needles if available in system 190, in either S or D point. S lays down an inline stitch that is perfect on top and slightly embedded on the bottom, with a tight hole that is like an inline chisel. Diamond points create a more surface oriented result, on the top and bottom and a wider hole. This more closely resembles hand stitching, in my opinion. Your results may vary. I would buy a pack of each type, in each size you intend to use, as availability dictates. Note, that the bottom stitches will all have a round pucker where the leather gets pushed down on the hole in the feed dog. Compound feed machines cannot duplicate the look of hand stitching on the bottom. Only a needle and awl machine comes close. The 1508NH is able to handle up to #207 bonded thread. Nylon is the usual thread used in all but outdoor goods. Then, you can upgrade to bonded polyester at a higher price per spool. I recommend using #24 (180) needles with #207, on top and in the bobbin. Or, use 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. You can sew longer with thinner bobbin thread, at a loss of just 25% strength per stitch. Do not use a smaller bobbin thread if strength is of importance (holsters, double leather belts, saddle bags). FYI: #207, the largest thread the 1508NH can handle properly, is less than hald the diameter of Tiger thread. In order to sew with a similar thickness of thread, you would need to move up to either a 441 clone (Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, etc), an Adler 205-370, or a needle and awl machine (e.g. Campbell Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch), which are not beginner machines.

If you want to sew double leather gun belts that are between 14 and 16 ounces thick, you should be using #277 thread (and a #25 needle). Unfortunately, your machine can't handle that size of thread. Your alternative is to sew two parallel rows of #138 thread (#23 needle) along the edges, 1/8 to 3/16 inch apart. Five stitches per inch is probably best. Make sure you use the same size in the bobbin, as you are already at a fairly low protection level with #138 thread. FWIIW: I did this on my previous National 300N walking foot machine until I got a real leather stitcher. One does what one must do.

The Touch and Sew machines are not built to pound bonded thread into leather. They, like all of the domestic sewing machines, are bottom fed only. The lack of top and needle feed makes it difficult, if not impossible to sew more than a couple layers of thin chap leather. The stitch length will be tiny at best. If you feel that the machine is a must have deal, buy it to do quilts and hem light cloth pants and skirts, or to make pillow cases and such. Don't buy it to sew leather. Save your money and buy a good walking foot machine with compound feed, capable of tensioning up to #138 thread, top and bottom. None of the domestics can handle that thread, which is the standard on chaps..

Also, sump pump oiled machines need to spin at over 2500 rpm to deliver the oil to the extremities. That is the bottom speed required for proper oiling. Most of the time, they are operated at 5000+ rpm. FYI: A self-oiling machine spinning at just 2500 rpm is sewing at about 40 stitches per second. I doubt that any leather crafter wants to sew that fast! Our machines typically don't exceed 5 stitches per second, or 300 stitches per minute. Anything over 9 or 10 per second causes smoke to happen in anything denser than chap leather.

Despite its size, the 144 is still an upholstery grade machine. It will max out with a #23 needle and 138 bonded thread. It will sew better with #92 thread. This machine is built to sew tarps, tents, upholstery covers and sails. It is not a holster makers' machine.

When I worked at M&M Leather, the owner had a Randall strap cutter. After truing the backbone, we both held the leather in alignment, one in front, one behind the blades. This minimized any wandering of the leather and produced very straight cuts.

OldNSlow; The Consew 206 is an upholstery grade machine. It was never designed with leather craft in mind. Upholsterers typically max out with #138 thread. This goes into everything four layers thick, like motorcycle seats, leather couch cushions and things made with outdoor vinyl and tents. It is too thick for simple folded seams on signs, awnings and marine seat cushions, where #69 or 92 thread is the tops. Along comes a surge in leathercrafters wanting to sew their projects and a walking foot machine used in an upholstery shop looks like the machine to end all machines. But, it ain't. So, what do I sew on my walking foot machine? I sew patches onto vests and jackets (where no pockets need to be left open), install new zippers in jackets, hem pants and leather skirts, sew and hem chaps, sew phone cases, sew bling belts, minor upholstery work, thinner rifle slings and guitar straps, money belts and miscellaneous items that can be sewn inside out along the seams. My walking foot machine is set up with #92 thread. When I hem jeans I switch to #80 jeans thread. It is usually fitted with a #19 or #20 leather point, titanium coated needle. Every once is a while I thread it with #138 thread and use a #23 leather point, titanium coated needle. I never sew holsters on that machine, nor soft thin linings. I have better machines for those bookends.

We need a "Like" or "+1" button for individual posts like this. It contains very good information in but two sentences.

It's a Singer 111w155

Since you stated you need to sew up to 5/8", that leaves out anything less than the big harness stitchers. You will definitely need one equipped with a 3:1 speed reducer, to help punch through that much leather. Art already mentioned some brand names, so I won't duplicate. FWIIW, I use a Cowboy CB4500 to sew these kinds of items. A CB3500 will sew as thick, with just a 9" arm, saving you a couple hundred dollars. A Cobra Class 3 is similar, as is the Techsew 4100. If you have a strong arm and good machine shop, a Tippman Boss can sew heavy leather using a hand crank.

The OP tried sewing Biothane using the raised holster plate, which is slotted and eliminates the feed dog function. The material is too sticky on the bottom to feed properly on a walking foot machine lacking bottom feed. This would be better done on a jump foot Union Lockstitch or Campbell Lockstitch machine, using one size larger awl than normal.

One of the first things a new Union Lockstitch Machine owner gets is sticker shock when they look up the prices for bobbins, needles and awls. New bobbins will set you back around $20 each. Needles and awls are in the $35 range for a ten pack. Anybody buying one barebones will need these items. Plus, the needles and awls come in different sizes for different sizes of thread. Then there are the presser feet selling for over $100 each and a special required threading rod that costs about $10. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that all of the important adjustments require special 4 sided (internal) T-wrenches, specifically made for the machine. There are three sizes of those and they aren't cheap.

Here you go

Post machines are good for Cowboy and dress hats and hatbands, biker and ball caps, shoe uppers, mocs and oddball repairs that need to hand down both sides of the needle. They are rarely used by leather "crafters" and more widely by shoe and hat makers.

I have owned two Union Lockstitch machines in my career as a leather crafter. Both were finicky and often had to be readjusted in multiple places whenever the stitch length was changed. My most recent one was barebones and required $1500 in parts and accessories before it sewed right for me. By the time I got my first ULS, I already had about 4 years working with industrial sewing machines under my belt. Still, it took a week to learn how to thread it properly and several months to figure out all the interactive adjustments that went hand in hand. Would I buy another ULS? Yes, if it was a later model, in good repair, with tons of spare parts, bobbins, needles, awls, plates and feet. I would not buy a barebones ULS again.

You can buy a new v-belt one or two inches shorter and regain the normal adjustment range on the motor bolt.

Yes, unless you can find a feed dog with a wider hole, or file yours out, then reposition the hook or needle deflector.

Unfortunately, those SewPro 500GR motors are no longer made.I still have one in service on a straight stitch machine at home.

Here are some new patchers from our advertisers, at great prices. Most are available in short or long arm, at different prices. Some have the small bobbins, others are larger. Cowboy Cobra Techsew Other dealers who frequent and contribute to our forums sell both new house brands and used Singer and Adler patchers. You'll have to contact them and ask. Almost every industrial sewing machine dealer in the USA has at least one fully functional patcher for sale.

Use a leather point needle. Size it to just be large enough for the thread to move freely, but not with a lot of slack. There is a sticky topic near the top of this forum about choosing the right needle for your thread. For instance, if your thread is #92, use a #19 needle. If #69, use a #18.

M. Jones; Check out this Consew 206 page for more details about these machines. Most upholstery grade walking foot machines (like the 206RB) are just gentle enough to sew a couple layers of deer hide, pigskin, or plonge. You have to use a fairly thin needle and thread combination, like #69 thread and a #18 leather point needle and back off the tensions. None can sew 1/2 inch though. That requires a move up into the heavy stitcher realm. You give up some of the lighter end work as a consequence. It is not against the law to have various machines for different types of sewing. ;-)

The Consew 223R was discussed on LWN some time ago, in this topic. It is a fixed foot, needle feed machine, capable of sewing about 1/4 inch of medium to soft temper leather at very high speeds (3,000 spm). Due to the fixed foot, it won't climb up and down like a walking foot machine. But, it will handle #138 thread, top and bottom. It should be useful if you can get it for three hundred dollars, or so..

The Consew 226 has a reverse lever, which was lacking on its predecessor, the 225. It is a good average walking foot machine. It uses the same feet and needles as the newer Consew 206RB-5 and most typical walking foot machines. The bobbins may be smaller than the ones used in the 206, but they will be adequate for thread sizes up to #138 (wind 'em tightly). A Consew 227R, or a 227 equivalent, will be a nice addition. Most of our dealers stock both Consew and custom branded machines that will serve you well.

That machine is only dual feed, with teeth on both feet. You would be better off getting a Juki DNU-1541s, which has triple, compound feed and the standard feet are totally smooth.

Back in the day, I sewed for a gentleman who produced safety vests for Police and various road workers. The material was honeycombed vinyl and had to be covered along the exposed edges. The machine was a Juki LU-563. I tried using over the counter screw on binders with varied results, which didn't track properly around curves. Eventually, we had a custom right angle binder hand made through our industrial sewing machine dealer. It fed 1.25" tape from big spools and double folded it as I sewed. The right angle ensured correct placement on inside curves, like arm holes. That binder never failed us and was worth every dollar paid to have it custom built.