Wizcrafts

@Dominicgetsgnar The CB6900 Brian mentioned is called the CB1341 in the USA. It is sold and serviced by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. You could call and ask about it to see if it is enough of an upgrade to justify the expense. Their number is: 866-362-7397. There is a bottom feed heavy duty cylinder arm machine I was thinking about that sews 7/16 inch. But, the pressure of the foot holding down high density vinyl and canvas might cause the layers to shift. I think you need to stick with triple feed machines to keep the layers aligned. Therefore, the CB3200 is the minimum upgrade that can sew 1/2 inch with thread sizes 138 through 346. You should be able to order it with serrated teeth on the feed dog and the blanket foot set. There is even a flat table attachment listed in the accessories. You would want to order it with round point needles, not leather points. The best size for #138 thread is a #23. Go up one needle size for #207 thread, top and bottom. Here is a handy thread and needle guide to help you choose the best combinations and thread strengths.

I use a 1/2 inch piping foot for the edges of welted straps. If your machine lifts high enough you could even use a 5/8 inch piping set. It sure beats fighting with a right toe foot.

Try using a Schmetz S point needle instead. It has an inline slicing point that gives a much nicer appearance on the top and bottom. NO! That may cause more problems than it solves. One likely problem will be the leather lifting with the ascending needle as the knots grab near the bottom and refuse to come up in the holes. The other is shredding the top thread from excessive friction from the tight holes. S point needles should resolve the stitch appearance problem.

Are you using a 7x3 round point needle instead of a 794 leather point?

Get a servo with a tiny pulley, like comes on this motor. You will need to calculate the length of the belt based upon the distance from the motor pulley to the machine pulley. It uses type 3L belts that are available at hardware stores and from the dealers selling the servo motors.

I use a mixture of thread from various manufacturers, including: Cowboy, A&E, Amann and Superior Thread. All are good brands that can match colors across different sizes of thread. For instance, I have light brown Cowboy thread, in color code Y035, that is the identical shade of brown in sizes 69 through 277. Superior bonded nylon also matches across its range of sizes for a given color code and is nice thread. When it comes to Adler 30 series patchers, the biggest thread I have ever run is #207, in my Adler 30-7. I had to use a #24 needle and rotate the throat plate to the large hole to clear the nail size needle. The bobbin only held a handful of 207 thread, but enough to get the small job done. It has less stress with #138 bonded thread and works so much easier with #69 or #92 thread. Your machine has a small bobbin and has about half the thread capacity as my large bobbin 30-7. You should limit your small bobbin patcher sewing to #69 or 92 thread, except for emergencies where #138 is needed for a few yards. I do keep a bunch of loaded shuttles with different thread sizes and colors. However, 90% of the time I have #69 prewounds in the shuttle and either #69 or 92 on top. I mainly use my patcher to sew embroidered commercial patches onto vests, jackets and hats, or to repair purse straps. The top tension adjustment nut may be limited in how far down it can be turned and still be able to lift the foot all the way up and keep it there between sewing ops. If the top tension is not strong enough to pull the knots up, I reduce the bobbin tension, or direction in the shuttle. The take-up adjustment device adds or subtracts slack thread on the upstroke that makes it easier to feed thick work and maintain a given stitch length and surface tension. You set it to the top for thin work and move it downward for thicker jobs. Forcing extra thread with this slack adjuster also increases the top tension somewhat. As for bonded thread only, that is not a given fact. In the late 1800s and early 20th Century, the same type of machine was used with linen thread. There was no synthetic thread back then. I have a bobbin that I got second hand that is wound with straw colored linen thread that looks to be about the equivalent of size 92 to 99. It is glazed, like the Barbour's Irish linen thread I used to use in my Union Lockstitch machines. when I owned them.

Issac Singer created some extraordinary sewing machine designs during the late 1800s and early 1900s that worked with the linen or cotton thread that was extant in those times. Oftentimes, sewers ran their linen thread through thinned liquid wax in wax pots on the top of the machines. Many early heavy duty machines lacked a thread tension release when the foot was lifted. In those machines, the top tension disks acted as an initial partial tensioner while the bottom roller did the main tensioning! I have a 1921 Singer 42-5 that has no tension release and has a spring loaded bottom roller wheel. Thread with liquid wax, or just plain linen thread is strongly affected by wrapping it a couple of turns around a roller wheel that had a spring pressing against it, acting as a brake. Two full windings can present considerable resistance if the thread is grippy. The more turns, the greater the effect of the beehive spring braking the rotation, causing drag on the top thread. The bottom roller on 441 type machines works on the same basis, although with a little less effect due to bonded thread usually being lubricated, or just plain slick. I was instructed to feed the top thread 1.5 turns around the bottom roller on my Cowboy CB4500. I now use 2 full turns and find that I can really fine tune the top tension with the roller wheel's beehive spring. The roller gradually increases tension whereas the top disks seem to come on much faster with a small adjustment. My threading method is to feed the top thread counterclockwise around the top post, from the top to the bottom holes, to counteract the natural coiling of bonded thread. Then, I feed it through the guide loop behind the top disks, which I position as far down as possible without hitting the disks. I pull the thread into and through the tension disks and down through the eyelet guide over the roller, pushing it to the left while facing the left end and roller wheel. I pull it through the eyelet guide and wrap it twice counterclockwise, then back up through the eyelet, From there I feed the thread through the check spring loop, and up to the take-up lever. The rest is self explanatory. I am able to use both the top and bottom tensioners, with the top releasing its tension when the feet are lifted up by the hand or foot lifter. I find that by feeding the thread through the eyelet over the roller in both directions, it stays put in the roller and doesn't twist out.

None that I can find. Sorry.

Those needles are much too short. Get a few packs of the proper needle system; 29x3, 29x4, 135x16, or 135x17. These systems have the correct shank diameter and length from the top to the eye and then to the tip. Insert all the way into the needle clamp. Then align them as I previously described. The entire clamp can be moved sideways to center the needle in the hole in the throat plate.

The 441 machines are timed slightly differently than upholstery class walking foot machines. I have a Cowboy CB4500 and one of my buddies has a Cobra Class 4. Both of us set the feet so that the inside foot hits the throat plate at the same time as the tip of the needle. Failure to set them this way throws the reverse stitches out of sync. My upholstery grade 111 type machines usually have the needle hit first. But, I sometimes tweak these positions for different jobs.

Here is the Singer 11 guide for versions 11-1 through 11-26

@Ronsruger Make sure you are using either a System 29x3 or x4, or a System 135x16 or x17 needle and have the rib on the left and small cutout above the eye on the right. If you are using one of these needle systems and the needle is facing as I described, the shuttle may be out of time. Your machine is probably from the late 1800s or very early 1900s and I'm not sure if the hook timing can be adjusted via an eccentric screw under the base like is is on later models. If so, there will be a hole in the base for a screwdriver. There would be a lock nut on the back of the cranks that needs to be loosened before you can turn the eccentric screw. Lock it back down after adjusting for the best timing. If the rod going to the shuttle isn't adjustable, one of the gears under the shuttle would have to be rotated in the direction needed to bring the tip of the hook inline with the needle, above the eye, after it comes up from bottom dead center and halts momentarily. The machine should preferably be upside down to keep the gears from falling out when the bottom gear cover is removed. I have uploaded the only manual I have that covers the older patchers. It refers to sub-models with the letter K, like 29k2, but also applies to models with a dash, like your 29-2. I hope this helps. 29K1 TO K4,K10 TO K18,K12 TO K23,K30 TO K33.pdf

I have a similar machine in my shop. It is a Techsew 2700. It is a clone of a Consew 227R. I either use #69 (T70) or #92 (T90) thread, top and bottom. It is a very handy machine if you need a cylinder arm, compound feed, walking foot machine. It is great for sewing cuffs on leather jackets and hemming denim pants. You were curious if there are various feet, including smooth bottom feet. This machine is based upon the Singer 153, which is a cylinder arm walking foot machine based upon the Singer 111w155. As such it accepts all of the feet made for the Singer 111 series. There are lots of smooth feet available in left toe, right toe, double toe, piping feet, edge guide feet, and left or right toe narrow zipper feet (with teeth). Most of these machines use the same G bobbin as the Singer 111 and 153. G style bobbins are regarded as 1x capacity. Prewound G style bobbins hold 25 yards of T90 bonded thread and about 35 yards of T70. I use both sizes of prewounds.

Throw out everything you know about thread. Hand stitching vs machine stitching are two different Worlds. You probably use waxed linen thread that is up to 1mm diameter, sewn with two needles in a running saddle stitch. The CB4500 (which I have) doesn't use linen thread, unless it is dry. Then, it is too weak for the thickness being sewn. It tends to shred as you sew. Lockstitch machines with a closed eye needle use bonded nylon, or bonded polyester thread. You can compare the bonded thread sizes to you linen thread sizes in this needle and thread chart. I use #277 bonded nylon to sew most holsters and sheathes, up to about 7/16th inch. Beyond that, I use #346 thread, top and bottom.

Linen thread can be used only it is unwaxed. Closed eye machines are not meant to use waxed thread. It will gum up everything it come in contact with. If you want to routinely sew with waxed thread, look for a Union Lockstitch machine, or a Campbell-Randall Lockstitch. They are needle and awl machines with barbed needles that don't clog up from the wax on the thread. But, they still need to be cleaned up when the wax dries. There are only two thread waxes I have ever used in my machines: Super Ceroxylon from Puritan and Lax Wax from Campbell Randall. Again, they are meant for needle and awl machines.

Yes! I've used mine a couple of times to punch holes for hand sewing with two needles when the customer is willing to pay extra. It can punch two to the inch maximum. The rest of the time I use the sewing machine to sew.

You need to list your location if you want a local sewer or artisan to help you. Add it to your profile. Welcome to the forum.

There are a couple things that can cause this. One is loosely bonded thread. Another if overly taut thread and another is retarded timing. The fixes are listed below. If the top thread is loosely bonded it will tend to unravel at the slightest provocation. Further, single needle lockstitch machines are meant to use reverse (Z) twist thread. If perchance your thread has a right twist, it will loosen and unravel as you sew. Try using a different or newer spool of thread on top! If the top thread is held taut all the way down as the needle bar approaches BDC, the loop will be small and tight. This can be corrected via the check spring travel limiter bracket that stops the downward motion of the spring. Set this for the best results by loosening the bracket set screw and handwheeling until the needle moves down to the top of the feed dog. Stop there and adjust the bracket so it stops the spring from going any lower. You might also change the position of the small screw in the curved slot on the check spring disks. The top thread needs some slack thread to function properly. This is controlled by the aforementioned position of the check disks. Moving the disks clockwise reduces the amount of slack. Moving counterclockwise adds more slack thread. I find that if the top thread is snapping as it goes around the hook and bobbin case, adding more slack quiets it down and makes for more controllable sewing. The hook to needle timing affects how the top thread loop is picked off the needle and wrapped around the bobbin case. Sometimes, retarded timing lets bad things happen as the thread goes around the case. It also causes the top thread to snap as it goes around (when it doesn't jam) Try advancing the hook slightly and see if that solves your problem.A combination of tweaking the hook timing and check spring may correct the shredding problem if everything else has been ruled out.

Some servo motors are affected by the side angle of the chain that connects to the "go" pedal. My CB4500 had that problem so I placed a large C clamp on the pedestal post to feed the chain more inline with the motor's control arm. I also moved the chain mounting bracket as far to the right as it would go on the pedal. That solved the problem of slowing down unexpectedly when I want it to speed up.

Read this post for suggestions to reduce an image's filesize.

If a #22 needle gets stuck in the hole in the throat plate, that suggests to me that the machine is meant to use thinner needles and thread, like a maximum of a #18/110 needle and #69 bonded thread. I recommend using a #19/120 needle with #92 thread, if that machine can handle it. It sounds like you bought a tailoring/dressmakers' machine, or maybe just a domestic/household machine falsely advertised as industrial. Does the machine come on a 20x48 inch table with a large clutch or servo motor underneath it, shipped on a pallet? Or, is the machine sitting in a small fitted box with a removable carrying case lid with a tiny motor attached to the back of the head? If the latter, it's a domestic machine for sewing thin cloth with small spools of cotton or polycore home sewing machine thread with thin needles (e.g., #10, 12, 14, etc). If so, you can probably forget about sewing 8 ounces of leather.

Either use an anti-backlash spring under the bobbin, or insert the bobbin against the direction of rotation of the shuttle. This means the bobbin thread will make a sharp turn off the bobbin to the slot and stay under the spring better. It does add a tish more bobbin tension which may need to be counteracted by backing off 1/2 turn on the bobbin tension screw. Negatory. Mine is manually oiled. Everybody calls me Wiz. That's who and what I am!

When this happens to me I chalk it up to the convergence of forces beyond my comprehension!

I dunno the standards for needle/thread combos in the sail sewing field, but in the leather end we usually use a #19 or possibly #20 needle maximum with #92 bonded thread. It seems to me that a #22 needle is poking too big of a hole and the tip can't slide past the thread knots as easily. I occasionally sew non-leather items in my shop. Of course that calls for round point needles. Lately, I have been buying Groz-Beckert Gebedur needles and they are fantastic. Gebedur needles are titanium coated, but last longer under stress than the Orange brand. You might try dinking with the check spring slider position. Normal operation has the screw in the middle of a curved slot. Turning the disks clockwise tightens the top thread by reducing the slack on the downstroke. Try doing that. Loosen the little screw in the curved slot, back off the round nut and turn the disks clockwise, then lock them back down. If it gets better, problem solved. If not, return the screw to the middle, or try turning it ccw for more slack. Note: tightening the check spring slack setting all the way may cause the top thread to snap as it goes around the shuttle. If this happens, back off a tad.

Suz, may I call you Suz? There is a trick to avoiding jamming your machine with top thread wrapping around the shuttle. Hold back the starting threads for a few stitches. If the bobbin thread is inaccessible, hold back the top thread. You will probably have to pull up or down to hide the first knot or two later on. Failure to do this usually results in the machine coming to a halt and you having to cut the thread under the material to remove it, then open the shuttle cover (and maybe the throat plate too) and as you found, the gib holding the bobbin case, then pull out all the double or triple wrapped thread. You may have to retime the hook if the machine lacks a safety clutch that disengages the hook when there's a thread jam. It is an unfortunate fact that a large number of perfectly good industrial sewing machines suffer from firsttitchitis; the grabbing of the top thread and double-wrapping it around the shuttle and bobbin case. Sometimes you may get lucky and be able to start sewing without jamming the hook, but only if the take-up lever is already on the downstroke and the top thread is firmly captured under the presser foot, and the foot has enough pressure to not let the thread slip out. Too many ifs in play.