Wizcrafts

First try timing it with System 134-35 needles. They are frequently used in Pfaff machines. The System 190 are much longer and would be used on high lift machines to allow one to sew thicker material. You could check if your model was originally a high lift, or standard lift. "Lift" in this instance means alternating foot height during operation.

Has anybody considered the possibility that the left hand machines, like my Singer 18-2, are for sewing left shoes or left cuffs only? They could use an identical right handed machine to sew the other shoe or cuff. It makes sense to me. But, I'm not right!

Here's the motor you need, with a control pedal.

Thanks for that info. I didn't know that.

If you can get a picture of the shuttle it will reveal whether it is a -1 or -7. I have a 30-7 which looks exactly like this machine and has a large bobbin and shuttle. The nose is 1.25 inches wide to accommodate the large shuttle. The 30-1 has a small bobbin and is only 1 inch wide at the nose. As for the price, I'm in the USA and paid $1300 USD for my 30-7, so $1600 CDN isn't such a bad price. These are heavy duty patchers and will pay for themselves sewing patches onto bikers' vests. They can fix purses, sew cue cases, hem sleeves, replace zippers in jackets and chaps and sew shoe and boot uppers. If this patcher uses the long System 332LLG needles, it can sew 3/8 inch under the foot!

@Willie0, If you really need to sew up to 1/2 inch seams, with #138 thread, I think you should look at the Juki LU-1508NH. Price it setup with System 190 needles which are 3/16 inch longer than standard walking foot needles. Setup as such, the NH can actually sew 1/2 inch seams.

That is a toy motor for household/domestic sewing machines. I looked up the 66-18 and it is a domestic sewing machine. It is meant to sew thin cloth. You can probably upgrade the feeble motor with a 1.5 amp model sold on eBay. Get a new controller with it. Don't expect professional results from a domestic sewing machine.

Upholstery class machines will not sew holsters and sheathes. For those you will need a holster/harness stitcher. What's available depends on your location. Your IP address says Norway. Your profile is blank.

A fair price is what you are willing to pay. Look it up and see what they are selling for in your general area. Offer 1/2 and see where it goes. Normally, upholstery machines are run at top speed. They typically ship with heavy clutch motors. These motors spin and draw power as long as they are turned on. This generates heat and runs up your electric bill. You can learn to feather the clutch to sew slowly. Servo motors serve two purposes. 1: little to no current draw until you run them under load. 2: easier to control at slow speeds. They are also much lighter in weight. If the machine suits your projects it is as good as any. You never said what you want to sew.

I will leave this open in case other members need the same parts.

@Tequila Try to remember to hold back the starting threads, equally if possible, to lock and center the first stitches and keep the top thread from getting wrapped around the shuttle, jamming the machine and possibly throwing it out of time.

There are often two screws securing a balance wheel to the top shaft.

Some compound feed walking foot machines have a second spring (and an adjuster) over the inside foot. If your Class 26 has that adjuster, back it off as far as it will go. You can even eliminate the spring on that foot if the adjuster doesn't clear them. Otherwise, try to find a softer presser foot spring. The only machines I have owned or sewn on that don't leave marks around the needle are needle and awl machines, like the Union Lockstitch and Randall Lockstitch, and shoe patchers. These are jump foot machines with one presser foot that has legs outside the needle position. Unfortunately, patchers leave tooth marks from the foot, unless you cover them with heat shrink tubing (reducing the feedability).

There is a drop-down speed reducer sold by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It sits under the table in place of your motor, which gets attached to the bottom of the reducer box. I have this box installed on two of my machines. It works great!

Ask Cobra if they can mail out a softer spring, or one that is already cut down and polished on the ends. There are soft and hard pressure springs for many types of machines. Some may be meant for a different brand but may fit in yours.

A 3 year old machine is used no matter how little use it got. You will probably end up selling it for half what you paid for it. As for price increases, you can use it to justify whatever price you choose to list it at. If you want to sell it here, please place an ad in our Marketplace section, under sewing equipment > used. Show a photo of the machine and accessories, its location, your terms and your price.

Heavier than I can lift! I'm guessing about 125 to 150 pounds for the head only. The 3200 normally ships with a 20 x 48 inch U shaped table. There is a stand up pedestal option than takes much less floor space. Either is normally setup with an analog servo motor, with a 50mm pulley and a 3:1 speed reducer. You might want to order it with a 70mm motor pulley and a vbelt to match so you don't lose too much top speed.

The Adler 205-374 was one of the premier heavy leather stitchers made between the late 1980s until about 5 or 6 years ago. New, they sold for about $7,000, plus or minus, depending on the location and value of local currency. They sew 3/4 inch of leather and take bonded thread up to #415. The 205 uses the same needles as the Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew and Juki 441 machines. It has been said that the 205 was Adler's answer to the Juki TSC-441. The first time I saw one in use was around 1987 or 1988, at a renowned harness maker's shop. They bought one of the first Adler 205s available for sale to compare to their room full of Randall Lockstitch needle and awl machines. It was large, quiet and impressive! The Adler 205-374 has a smooth feed dog and smooth bottom presser and alternating feet for use on fine leather projects, like English bridle leather show harness and dress belts. The price you mentioned is about half what the machine might have sold for when it was new. It is a bit high for a used machine, but is a good deal if there is nothing wrong with it. Be forewarned that if anything is wrong or missing, authentic parts for Adler machines are DEAR. You can buy aftermarket bobbins and some accessories fairly reasonably. I would try to get the seller to demo the machine if possible. If they can't, bring someone with who may be familiar with this type of stitcher.

@Dominicgetsgnar The CB6900 Brian mentioned is called the CB1341 in the USA. It is sold and serviced by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. You could call and ask about it to see if it is enough of an upgrade to justify the expense. Their number is: 866-362-7397. There is a bottom feed heavy duty cylinder arm machine I was thinking about that sews 7/16 inch. But, the pressure of the foot holding down high density vinyl and canvas might cause the layers to shift. I think you need to stick with triple feed machines to keep the layers aligned. Therefore, the CB3200 is the minimum upgrade that can sew 1/2 inch with thread sizes 138 through 346. You should be able to order it with serrated teeth on the feed dog and the blanket foot set. There is even a flat table attachment listed in the accessories. You would want to order it with round point needles, not leather points. The best size for #138 thread is a #23. Go up one needle size for #207 thread, top and bottom. Here is a handy thread and needle guide to help you choose the best combinations and thread strengths.

I use a 1/2 inch piping foot for the edges of welted straps. If your machine lifts high enough you could even use a 5/8 inch piping set. It sure beats fighting with a right toe foot.

Try using a Schmetz S point needle instead. It has an inline slicing point that gives a much nicer appearance on the top and bottom. NO! That may cause more problems than it solves. One likely problem will be the leather lifting with the ascending needle as the knots grab near the bottom and refuse to come up in the holes. The other is shredding the top thread from excessive friction from the tight holes. S point needles should resolve the stitch appearance problem.

Are you using a 7x3 round point needle instead of a 794 leather point?

Get a servo with a tiny pulley, like comes on this motor. You will need to calculate the length of the belt based upon the distance from the motor pulley to the machine pulley. It uses type 3L belts that are available at hardware stores and from the dealers selling the servo motors.

I use a mixture of thread from various manufacturers, including: Cowboy, A&E, Amann and Superior Thread. All are good brands that can match colors across different sizes of thread. For instance, I have light brown Cowboy thread, in color code Y035, that is the identical shade of brown in sizes 69 through 277. Superior bonded nylon also matches across its range of sizes for a given color code and is nice thread. When it comes to Adler 30 series patchers, the biggest thread I have ever run is #207, in my Adler 30-7. I had to use a #24 needle and rotate the throat plate to the large hole to clear the nail size needle. The bobbin only held a handful of 207 thread, but enough to get the small job done. It has less stress with #138 bonded thread and works so much easier with #69 or #92 thread. Your machine has a small bobbin and has about half the thread capacity as my large bobbin 30-7. You should limit your small bobbin patcher sewing to #69 or 92 thread, except for emergencies where #138 is needed for a few yards. I do keep a bunch of loaded shuttles with different thread sizes and colors. However, 90% of the time I have #69 prewounds in the shuttle and either #69 or 92 on top. I mainly use my patcher to sew embroidered commercial patches onto vests, jackets and hats, or to repair purse straps. The top tension adjustment nut may be limited in how far down it can be turned and still be able to lift the foot all the way up and keep it there between sewing ops. If the top tension is not strong enough to pull the knots up, I reduce the bobbin tension, or direction in the shuttle. The take-up adjustment device adds or subtracts slack thread on the upstroke that makes it easier to feed thick work and maintain a given stitch length and surface tension. You set it to the top for thin work and move it downward for thicker jobs. Forcing extra thread with this slack adjuster also increases the top tension somewhat. As for bonded thread only, that is not a given fact. In the late 1800s and early 20th Century, the same type of machine was used with linen thread. There was no synthetic thread back then. I have a bobbin that I got second hand that is wound with straw colored linen thread that looks to be about the equivalent of size 92 to 99. It is glazed, like the Barbour's Irish linen thread I used to use in my Union Lockstitch machines. when I owned them.