Wizcrafts

@urlbee51 Please don't cross-post the same topic in different sections of the forum. This section is getting the answers you were seeking. I hid your other duplicate post.

I've never seen a Cobra 26 up close. But, I'm confident that there is some eccentric adjustment to match the forward and reverse stitches. However, if it is anything like my Singer 211G156, matching the holes may reduce the maximum stitch length. In my case, my Singer could sew almost 4 to the inch if I unbalance the reverse stitches. With them balanced, I get 5 to the inch. If you plan on ordering this machine, or a Cowboy CB341 (from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines), ask them to match the stitch length in the thickness you expect to sew most frequently. That way the machine will arrive pre-adjusted in both directions. The maximum stitch length will be what it is.

Do you know that there are still replacement parts available for Union Lockstitch machines? I bought about $1000 worth of parts and accessories for my last ULS from Campbell-Randall, in 2011. Why don't you contact them and ask if they have any spare threaded hollow wax stripper bolts and the drilled rubber inserts? You might get lucky and be able to order just those parts, then drill and tap a standard Cowboy lube pot. They might be able to do the whole thing in their shop if they have a compatible wax pot.

The SInger 45k25 is a bottom (drop) feed machine with a fixed position presser foot and needle. The feed dog on the bottom raises up and grabs the bottom of the leather and pushes it through for the next stitch. The teeth are fairly aggressive and will leave deep marks in the bottom if there is a grain side facing down. If you always sew with the flesh side down, those marks will be mostly invisible. The 45k can sew with up to #277 thread using a #25 leather point needle.

My Singer 211G156 can sew with #138 thread, once in a while. Mostly, I keep #92 thread in it and use #19 or 20 needles. I got it to clear #138 thread by moving the hook assembly slightly away from the needle, then adjusting the latch opener lever that pulls the bobbin case back as the top thread goes under the tab that fits under the throat plate. If the pull back doesn't happen, the thread can jam in the tab.

Ferdinand machinery has been out of business for a long time now. They often bought stock machines, removed original parts, and added their own custom parts to the inside of their machines. If the machine you're looking at has any mechanical issues that requires replacement parts, you might be in a bind. OTOH, it could be a diamond in the rough!

@thenrie, would you please copy the posts containing those links and paste and send them to me in a private message? I checked every link I saw in all of the pages in this topic and none went to car insurance pages. There was a 404 not found on a forum though. This was an old topic that started in 2011. Dead links and redirects can be expected when they go to outside websites. When you send the posts and links, let me know your operating system and browser make and version. Also, let me know about any anti-virus or anti-malware program you are running.

@thenrie Why don't you contact @CowboyBob and see what he sells a complete Cowboy Outlaw setup for?

@CowboyBob, that's sabotage! Herr Adler would roll over in his grave!

I have a 30-7, not a 30-1. I get over 5 to the inch into 4-5 ounces of leather with the stitch regulator all the way down on the manually raised foot (using the foot lifter lever on the back). You can cheat for longer stitches by lowering the regulator bracket a little more. But, when you go to lift the foot, it will stop at the regulator bracket before it can lock in the lifted position. You can also increase the slack in the top thread to make it easier to feed. You can push or pull the leather to increase the stitch length. As a last resort, if there is noticeable free motion in the foot, when you push and pull on it in the lifted position, replacing the feed motion cam may get a bit more length. However, the stitch length always decreases as the thickness being sewn increases, due to the pendulum effect.

If you do that on a regular basis, see about getting a spare throat plate chrome plated and polished to a mirror finish. This will reduce drag and lessen the force needed on the foot. You may still need to help feed the material with your hands. Alternately, spray silicon or teflon lube on the flesh side of the leather (and clean it off later).

I sometimes run my top thread through liquid silicon in a little lube tube that's sold by industrial sewing machines dealers, on and off line. The one I have screws onto a top post, plus I think has a magnet on the base. It has a transparent flip open reservoir for the lube. The thread gets routed through the bottom that has little channels for the thread to run in. The entire reservoir, with its closed lid flops over so you can route the thread under it. There is a screw running down the center of the tube to regulate the flow. Other hints when sewing on sticky Velcro: Use titanium coated needles, like the Groz-Beckert Gebeder series. Use diamond points for leather and round points for cloth. Use one size larger than standard (e.g., use a #19 needle with #69 thread, or a #20 needle with #92 thread). Increase the foot/feet pressure setting to hold down the Velcro as the loaded needle ascends on the upstroke. If the material lifts with the ascending needle, you'll get skipped stitches. A double toe foot usually holds the Velcro down better than a left toe foot. Add some slack with the check spring disk position, throw, and spring force. Move the hook closer to the needle. Do this in concert with adding slack in the check spring. Try some extra large eye needles. Schmetz makes some that can still sew through adhesives with less clogging of the eye. They offer a high end model named Schmetz "GO", which has an oversize eye and is sold in boxes of 100 needles per size. I have good luck with the more easily obtainable Schmetz "Serv 7" needles that can be bought in a pack of 10 needles. Finally, load a dauber with Goof Off and wipe it on the needle every couple of inches of sewing. This really works for me. If you decide to try sew-on Velcro, apply Leather Tape from Wawak down the center, avoiding the sewing borders. The tape holds the Velcro in place as you carefully sew along the perimeter. I do this to patches I sew onto bikers' vests and jackets.

My Adler 30-7 can get close to 4 to the inch in 4-5 ounces of low density, sliick-bottom leather. This drops as the thickness increases, or the leather gets tougher or stickier and harder to pull through. It can be easier to pull longer stitches if you engage the thread slack controller mechanism to give more slack during the take-up cycle. This is something I learned on previous Singer patchers. If the stitch length driving cam is worn, you can push from the front or pull from the back to help the leather feed at longer stitch lengths (up to its effective maximum). If your machine also has a T-bar darning attachment on top, you can use it to cheat and pull the leather as far as you want per stitch.

That Adler model was specially altered to sew moccasins. Here is just one of several topics on Leatherworker.net about the Adler 105-25 MO.

I believe that a previous owner had that roller foot custom built, along with a matching, wide feed dog and throat plate. Unless you can figure out how this setup functions, you'll be better off buying the stock foot, feed dog and throat plate.

Glenn was letting you know that the cam on the back is fitted onto the top shaft with a solid tapered pin. You'll need to rotate the hand wheel to bring that pin to the top, then pound it out with a drift punch. Note, the pin is tapered and only comes out in one direction, which I don't know about. After loosening the cam, hold the wheel and rotate the cam until the hole on the other side is facing up. Then pound in the tapered pin and test the machine.

T he 211g151 is NOT a walking foot machine. It is a needle feed machine. The needle moves in sync with the bottom feed dog, while dragging against the presser foot. I almost think I see a mini roller on one side of that foot. If so, it's probably a convoluted form of a roller foot to make it easier to feed sticky materials, like upholstery leather.

@MarkNY Did you glue or tape the layers together and is the needle going through the glue or tape? This can cause tension problems as the eye gums up. It can also cause the top thread to rat. Every now and then, after I've balanced the knots in a matching test strip, as I'm sewing the knots will start to show on top. When I investigate the problem, it's usually either that the bobbin thread has loosened, or twisted out of the tension spring, or the top thread twisted and got snagged along the way and became too tight. Things can change during active sewing, especially when you start, stop, speed up and slow down. Another thing to check is the presser foot pressure setting. There should be enough pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the ascending needle. If you have trouble balancing the knots, use the smallest needle that centers the knots. An oversize needle lets the knots move at the slightest provocation. Note that the tighter hole will require more top tension to bring the bobbin thread up. This may help if your leather has inconsistent density, or is glued or taped and it is sticking to the needle. Make certain that you are loading your bobbins evenly. I usually load them in so the thread makes a sharp turn as it feeds the slot in the bobbin case. This increases the bobbin tension a bit and provides better stability for staying under the tension spring. But, if there is any cross threading on the bobbin, or fuzzies, they will cause hiccups to the bobbin tension as you sew. Also, if the bobbin is out of shape, toss it and buy new ones that stay flat as they rotate. You should be able to buy prewound bobbins from A&E and other thread companies. They are usually would to exacting specifications for commercial use. I use a lot of prewounds and rarely have any issues with them. Finally, make sure the needle is inserted with the long rig on the left and the cutout facing due right. Oh, and use titanium coated needles if possible. The coating helps when sewing through glue and reduces heat buildup.

@AWORKOFMARC Check our marketplace, or Facebook Marketplace, or your local Craigslist for used walking foot sewing machines. Just beware of scammers "borrowing" photos from other ads for machines they don't actually have. Your safest bet is to find one for sale locally and pay and take it home in person.

I have a Singer 211G156 that I bought during the 2020 shutdowns, so I could sew at home. That machine has a small diameter pulley on the balance wheel and is meant to be run FAST. I put a servo motor on it to get better slow speed control, which helps. However, at the slowest settings the motor won't turn the machine over unless I spin the wheel. That machine was made to sew long runs of upholstery leather and other materials. Also, despite being an upholstery machine, it only uses a 1x G style bobbin. In case you do end up with the Singer, you can run #138 thread in it, but only if you get a speed reducer to increase the punching power. The G size bobbin will hold enough #138 thread to sew about 8 or 9 mens belts. Aside from the small pulley and G bobbin, it's a great walking foot machine. I use it to sew in zippers, or do seat covers. I don't use it for small leather projects.

We have a Wanted section in the marketplace, under machinery. Place a want ad there. But, beware of scammers who may reply with a referral to a friend who has one for sale. They send a stolen photo and an email address. You send the money and they disappear with it. This has happened a few times.

I wrote a long topic answering your very question. It is a pinned topic about the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather. I didn't address pricing. That's on the buyer to search for the best deal on a suitable machine. At least you'll learn what to look for and what to avoid.

There's only three things left that I can think of. Readjust the check spring for more or less travel, or tension, or slack. Check the main shaft to see if there is a lot of slop in the gears. If there is too much slop, starting and stopping with a jerk can throw off the timing. Check for sharp edges along the top thread path to the needle. If there's a thread guide on the bottom of the needle bar, remove it and check it for a sharp edge. Use Emory cloth to smooth it, or replace it.

I sew patches onto bikers' vests with various walking foot machines, and a patcher. I always wait for the needle to come upwards before turning sharply. This keeps the thread loop inline with the hook. If you turn before the thread is picked off, you will probably get skipped stitched. SOP is bring the needle up after the hooks intersects it before making a sharp turn.

My advice is to wait until the needle has risen about 1/8 inch above bottom dead center before making a sharp turn. It also helps if you lift the feet slightly to take pressure off of the item. If you make your turn with the needle all the way down, the hook hasn't picked off the thread yet and that leads to tangles.