Wizcrafts

You should hold back both starting threads so the top thread doesn't get drawn down prematurely, and maybe jams the hook. This machine would be damaged if that happened with #138 thread.

Yes, place the link. Just don't try to sell stuff in this section of the forum.

That is the machine you will need if you get into sewing patches onto Bikers' vests.

I own a Singer 211g156. It is a compound feed walking foot machine. I use it to sew in zippers, or to sew small upholstery projects, or to sew lined belts. It handles thread sizes 69, 92 and 138, using needle sizes 18, 20 and 23. Things to know about this machine are that it only takes a G size bobbin (1x), and the pulley is rather small. It is a little tricky getting it to sew slowly and still punch through veg-tan leather. Mine is equipped with a Family Sew 500 servo motor that is a bit underpowered at the lowest speeds. It could really use a 2:1 speed reducer to add more punching power. I added that motor after I removed the old clutch motor that came with it. The maximum stitch length that matches in both directions is 5 to the inch. The feet lift high enough to sew 3/8 inch of light to medium temper leather (e.g., thick seams in a leather jacket). It uses the same bobbins, needless, feet and accessories as the older Singer 111w153, 155 and 156. But, those machines had larger pulleys and are smoother at slow speeds operation. The machine is manually oiled. The stitch length is adjusted by pressing a button the the bed while rotating the balance wheel forward or backward. There is another button that controls the safety clutch that disengages the hook drive if you jam thread in the hook. If this happens, you have to remove all of the jammed threads, then unthread the needle, then press down the button and rotate the wheel until the clutch pops back into its operating position. If you want to sew seat covers, this machine will get the job done really fast! It isn't quiet at higher speeds and shakes a bit.

For non leather projects, I recommend System 135x17 round/ball point needles. Round points won't tear the fibers apart like leather points tend to do. Some of the best are Groz-Beckert and Schmetz. I use both. The GB are available with titanium coating. They are labeled Gebedur. Schmetz makes a ball point needle with an extra large eye, called Serv 7 needles.

As I've been told by people who've bought sewing machines directly from the Orient, the unboxing, clean-up (degreasing, removal of metal shavings) and assembly can take quite a while. Then, one has to do the timing and dial in the machine so it actually sews in both directions at its maximum capacity. This only makes sense if one has tools and knowledge of setting up these machines and the time to put into it. I don't know how often it happens, but if any required parts are missing, you may have to wait for the next low boat from China to get them, or buy them elsewhere.

I found and uploaded a manual for similar models of the Singer 133 series. I hope this helps you figure out the essentials. Manual Singer 133K8, 133K9, 133K10 and 133K17 (1).pdf

@fasdude, that chart has nothing at all to do with the Singer 133 series machines. It is strictly for the 29 series, which bear no resemblance to the 133.

I found these Google search results for the Pfaff 335gH3 on Leatherworker.net.

While the Singer industrial sewing machines company is long gone, there are lots of aftermarket parts made in the Orient. The 100 year old machine uses the same tiny shuttle and bobbin as the last ones sold in the 1980s. It is a shoe and boot patcher, meant for short stitching jobs, like darning, re-sewing loose threads in shoe toe boxes, sewing patches over pockets, fixing purse strap tabs, and sewing cylindrical objects. I use T70 bonded thread in my short arm, small bobbin patchers. They can sew up to 1/4 inch of stuff that isn't too dense. Unfortunately, the stitch length suffers badly at this thickness. You get the longest stitches into 6 ounces of leather that isn't too grabby. Think of smooth shoe upper leather.

If that machine is a binder machine as built, there will not be any way to get 4 way motion on the feed dog. That motion is caused by cams that would likely be missing on a binder machine. It was not intended for normal sewing operations. I was offered a Pfaff 335 for a couple hundred bucks at the same time I bought a long arm big bobbin Singer patcher (over a decade ago). After seeing how strange the feed operated, I declined the Pfaff. If you haven't bought the machine yet, ask the seller if the feed dog has normal up/down/forward/backward motion, or just forward/backward? It will be one or the other, not both..

It already has the synchronized sliding plate and spring attached to the arm. All it needs if the actual folder part and a platter to hold the edge tape. There have been other discussions about using a Pfaff 335 for standard sewing. It usually requires alterations to the feed dog. As is, the feeder is a flat, po9lished plate that moved forward and backward. The inside and outside feet will have a different shape than a standard sewing machine.

Yes. This machine is a synchronized binder machine. It is one of the best money can buy. Do you intend to sew items that require edge binding?

There are YT videos from Campbell Randall Company. Campbell took over rebuilding the Randalls and sells them as Campbell-Randall Lockstitch machines. You can buy a manual from CR and learn to thread the machine, which is half the battle. The book will have a list of recommended needles and awls for various sizes of thread. You can buy everything you need from CR in Texas. Hopefully, this machine comes with some extra needles, awls, bobbins and a threading wire.

Your John D. Randall 311, is the 311th machine built. This puts in in the late 19th Century, or the very early 1900s. I sewed on an early model from 1910 and it sewed flawlessly. I was offered to buy it in 1988, and like a fool, I declined. It was the personal stitcher of the owner of Freedman Harness, who sewed harness for the Rockefeller's race horses. If that machine is in working condition, ask for a demonstration. If some parts are worn, they may be replaceable with parts from Campbell-Randall Company, in Texas. If the machine doesn't sew, or turn over, it can be very costly to repair.

Merry Christmas!!!

All Singer 111 models use System 135x16 (leather point) and 135x17 (cloth round point) needles. They are sold by all industrial sewing machine dealers, and on eBay. Here is a thread and needle chart to match the needle "size" to the thread "size." Your machine uses approximately 1.75 inch long needles. The needle size and system are two different things. The size refers to the diameter of the needle above the eye, but below the mounting shank. The System defines a particular architecture (length, shank diameter, eye shape). A "size" 18 (metric 110) needle is fairly thin and is used with #69 bonded thread.

Maybe you can find a narrower feed dog and throat plate to accommodate that narrow foot set.

Sometimes, History continues into the present day. The Amish in the Thumb area of Michigan still use Landis and Randall needle and awl harness stitchers to make and repair harness for their horse drawn carts. They are either foot pedaled, with twin bicycle style pedals, or line shaft driven by whatever power source they deem acceptable. I was offered a rebuilt and working Randall, for $2200, by an Amish who used to visit my shop until 2022. I should have taken him up on it when I had the money in the bank. These machines lay down a stitch that closely resembles hand sewing on both sides. Note: parts and accessories for needle and awl machines are often hard to get and usually very expensive.

Every bonded thread manufacturer uses a different chemical formula to process the strands. Once of the steps involves dyeing the nylon the color to be wound in that run. It is my understanding, from a discussion I had with a thread manufacturer in Canada, that black thread is/was doubled dyed, where lighter colors were single dyed. If I recall that discussion, they first dyed the filaments deep blue, then black. This resulted in a beautiful black finish, but a stiffer thread that tended to be "coily" as it unwinds off the spool. It was only their black bonded nylon that had this stiffness. As for the thread size, there is a standard chart that shows the recommended thickness of each size. Manufacturers try to stay close to the standards, but nobody forces them to do so. Some brands will be thicker or thinner than others, but not by much. Then, there is a variation in thickness based upon whose standard you build to. The American thread sizes are referred to as a number, like b69, v92, 6.6. European thread uses a different measurement called TEX. A US b69 is also known as Tex 70. US 277 is Tex 270. There is sometimes an actual difference in diameter between some spools of 277 vs T270. Your softer thread was probably single dyed and not bonded as aggressively.

Both the Randall and Union Lockstitch machines were designed to sew harnesses and saddlery. They originally used Z twist linen thread run through liquid beeswax. Other uses for these machines included holsters for law enforcement, tug straps for sulkies, weightlifters belts, footballs (Union Lock), briefcases and some saddlebags. Both use a separate barbed needle and an awl to punch holes. The Randal machines use the awl to move the leather, while the Union Locks are needle driven. The Randalls like to chug along at about 300 stitches per minute, maximum while the Unions are designed to fly at 800 spm. They are a higher speed production machine for long straps, whereas the Randall is for more precision sewing. If you ever get to meet someone selling a Union Lockstitch in person, have the owner run it flat out for you. Bring earplugs and hold onto your junk!

@JoshHov Once you settle upon a price, or choose to take offers, please place your ad in our Marketplace section, under Machinery > Sewing > Used. Include your location, pertinent details, and asking prices, as well as some small file size photos. 800x600 pixel jpgs (sometimes called 3x4) are fine and should be well under the forum's upload size limit. Let members contact you via our personal messages system.

This was first done by Campbell Randall, the rebuilder and primary dealer for Campbell and Union Lockstitch machines. Check out their video where they sew a penny onto a stack of leather. There is a full description of the machine and its setup.

I sewed professionally on a Consew 206RB, making ballistic material blackout window blinds for schools. The machine takes a large M style bobbin and has no problem sewing with #138 thread. I also used Nomex thread in that machine to repair some firefighter turnout gear. I normally kept it threaded with #69 bonded nylon for the thin blinds. But, it didn't hiccup with #138..

Watch this video clip: