Wizcrafts

Perhaps Campbell-Randall Company, in Conroe, Texas can help you with the adjustments. They a the dealer for Campbell-Randall and Union Lockstitch machines and would probably know as much as anybody out there about sole stitchers. Address: 405 FM 3083 Rd, Conroe, TX 77301 Phone: 1-800-327-9420

https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/223-3d-printers-and-lasers/

When you move the leather to the right of the machine it has more friction as it tries to move over the throat plate and arm. There is also the push button on the throat plate that can get in the way. May I suggest that you remove the throat plate and get is buffed to a high polish? I did that on my Adler 30-7 and it helped a little.

That's good work! We have a section of the forum where people can share digital and laser printer design patterns and programs.

Yea! Another win for the good guys! Glad it worked for you.

I tried sewing soles on various machines I've had over the decades. The worst ones are flatbeds. The best were cylinder arm machines that have very little space on the left of the needle. I sewed one pair of soles on my Cowboy CB4500 using an inline foot set. I used #346 thread and a #26 needle. I cranked down the foot pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the huge, loaded needle. It worked. If you are planning to sew on soles more than once in a while, look for a used Landis 12 sole stitcher. The last model was a 12K. These machines had a curved needle (hook) and awl. They are specifically made to lay a perfect stitch of waxed thread along the edge. You sew with the sole up on the Landis'. It has a knife that cuts a channel on top to submerge the thread into the sole.

I have news for you about the slowing it down part: "Ultra High Speed, Single Needle, Drop Feed, Lockstitch Machine" "With: Automatic Lubrication, Reverse Feed, Japanese Components" Here's the product page. Despite the requirement to run this machine at very high speed, it can be slowed down with a servo motor. Before you start sewing, unthread it and run it flat out for a half minute. This will pump the oil to the extremities. This is assuming you got the table containing the oil pan and gasket. The machine is not meant to just be manually oiled. It is a garment manufacturing machine. It is not rated for sewing leather.

Yep. At one point in time, I had two Singer (96k40 and 31-20), one Juki 563 and a Pfaff 138 all fitting onto the same table. I had to move the knee lever around to use the different heads

Maybe tweak the check spring to get a larger loop formed as the needle begins its ascent. There will be 3 adjustments possible: strength, travel and starting position. Try minimizing the travel so the spring stops as soon as the needle penetrates the top of the material. Back off the tension on the spring a bit. Try adjusting for more or less slack in the thread. Sometimes, adding slack helps overcome floppy material dissolving the loop. Othertimes, reducing the slack may do the trick..

The belt type is called Type 3L. They are 3/8 inch wide on top. If you have a hardware store nearby, they usually stock them in numerous lengths. Measure as close as you can, then buy a couple v-belts around that general size. Return the belts that are too long or short.

The four motion feed dog is also call "square drive." If done correctly, the feed dog starts under the throat plate in the forward most position. It then lifts straight up above the plate level. The it moves the material in sync with the needle and inside foot. After reaching the back of its travel, it drops straight down. This makes the bottom assist a little more precise than the standard feeder, which has a slope as it engages and disengages. I don't know how much difference this would make in every day sewing.

The machine probably shipped with a couple of Metric wrenches for the most common bolts. Just bring a set that includes everything from 10 through 15mm. Also, bring a large flat blade screw driver with a fat handle. You can set the head upright in the back or front floorboard and tie it in place. Put some padding in the truck bed and lay the pedestal stand down with the post on the bottom and tie it down. Take the parts drawer out first and put it in the truck. There will be needles, bobbins, wrenches, extra feet, extra throat plates and probably a 4 ounce precision oiler. Bring a box for the small parts and all the thread you'll probably be getting. I've owned a CB4500 since 2012 and it has never seized or broken down after 11 years of regular use. I would ask to plug in the machine and test it to ensure that it turns over smoothly and actually sews. Bring several pieces of 8-10 ounce leather. If it is threaded with #277 thread, it needs at least 1/4 inch thickness to easily hide the lockstitch knots. Unless it's been modified, the thinnest it will sew is about 8 ounces, using #138 thread. It can be modded later to sew thinner with thinner thread and needles. The black and gold finish indicates that the machine came from a former dealer in Arlington, Texas.

Turn the speed dial up a notch. You'll still be able to feather the pedal for slow speed, although it will be a little touchy until you get the hang of it. A 1:2 speed reducer is also a 2:1 torque magnifier.

Rather than promoting one particular seller, here are some Google search results for "Pull The Dot snap fasteners." Some eBay sellers have them in as little as 10 sets. Just make sure you read the specs to get the right post length for the project at hand. Some have very short posts for canvas. You'll want longer posts for use on holsters and sheathes.

The spindle doesn't have any threads. What it does have is a round tab inside one side of the cap on the end. That tab fits in the threads cut into the back of the top shaft. If those threads are intact, when you screw in the spindle you may have to loosen the cap and inside screws that have a very strong, small spring with a stud or ball bearing on the end. There is also another screw on the opposite side of the housing in the top of the head. It sets the maximum stitch length. The process is to determine which side has the cap screw. Remove it, then unscrew the inside screw with the spring until it is almost out. Rotate the shaft so you can get to the other screw and back it out. Now you should be able to twist in the spindle shaft. With it in all the way, screw down the spring loaded screw, then secure it with the cap screw. Set the maximum stitch length with the screw on the opposite side of that housing; usually between 4 and 5 stitches per inch. Now, you can screw the cap on the spindle out to shorten the stitches, or back in to lengthen them again.

In my experience, when the top thread is so tight that it snaps going around the hook, the timing is retarded. There's two ways to correct this. One is to advance the hook. The other is to adjust the check spring for more slack during the take-up cycle. The additional slack is normally used when sewing thick seams, or if the material is bunching up from too tight stitches. If your hook is slightly slow, the check spring adjustment might reduce the tension going around it. If not, advance the hook slightly. It's possible that the hook has too much slack in the gears so that even though you timed it correctly at rest, it retards during operation. It might even have one or both set screws loose. Or, it could be set too high in the saddle, or the slack gears might allow it to lift during take-up..

If there is a Tandy Leather store near you, shaver blade and is used to thin the flesh side of leather belts at the turnback area where the buckle goes.some of your pleather in and ask to try their hand held skiving tool. It uses a small razor blade to skive (thin) leather belts at the fold for the buckle. Maybe it will work on your pleather.

That would be tricky on manmade material like pleather. I've tried skiving Naugahyde, to no avail. It just chewed up the back side. Still, it may be worth a tyry if the OP has access to somebody with a band knife skiver.

This machine is a shoe and boot "patcher." Do you plan to work on shoes and boots (uppers only)? It can also be used to sew patches onto vest pockets and jacket sleeves without closing the pockets or sleeves. Do you intend to go into the patch sewing business? Another thing these are good for is repairing looe purse strap tabs on the sides of purses. The narrow nose can get inside where no other machine can go. Will you be repairing purses and pouches. One more task the long arm patcher can handle is sewing cue cases, or other cylindrical otems, up the arm (I call it sewing up the snout). If you answered yes to one or more of those questions, it is worth your trouble to haul it home, fix the cause of the seizure, and put it to work. Please note, that despite its robust appearance, this is a light to medium duty manual sewing machine that is entirely fed by the presser foot. The foot rotates around 360 degrees and has aggreesive teeth to grab the work and pull it to form stitches. The teeth will leave very noticeable marks on veg-tan leather.

While there are tools available commercially to punch a hole and slot, I had one made by a tool and die maker. All you need is a 1/4 inch hole punch and a 3/4 inch chisel with a sharp point. Punch the hole first. Then place the chisel blade just inside the edge of the hole facing up the strap. Line up the punch dead center from the hole along the center line of the strap, then punch the slot and you should be set.

I have the same machine and use standard size G bobbins in it. These are the same bobbins as used in the Singer 111, 153, and 211 machines and many others.

This has happened to me and many others when we have either purposely, or inadvertently increased the lift ratio of the presser and alternating feet too high. Once you increase the alternating lift, and are actually sewing something, the internal crank shafts can make hard contact with the presser foot bar, jamming the action.

The Schmetz S point is NOT available in System 135x16, which is the designated needle system for the Juki LU-563. However, Schmetz DOES make the S points in System 134-35, in sizes 80 through 200. These needles are about 1mm shorter than the standard walking foot needles and were made for certain Pfaff machines. In order to use the S points in a Juki 563, or equivalent, one must lower the needle bar 1mm, then check the timing of the hook. Some people, myself included, have been able to use the Schmetz S point needles, without any adjustments, in Singer walking foot machines that only sew forward, not reverse. The Juki LU-563 is often used with reverse to lock the stitches at the beginning and end. Sewing in reverse requires precise timing of the hook and needle. This could be a problem with the shorter needle, unless the timing and check spring were tweaked to the Tees. I would simply lower the needle bar to place the hook above the eye, as per the machine's specfs, and leave it there, only using S points, or other System 134-35 needles. The maximum sewing thickness would be reduced by 1mm.

I had a set of the original inline feet taht needed the height adjustment. I found out a couple years ago that @CowboyBob Bob Kovar got in new ones that were already the right length. They go on without requiring any further adjustment.

I got a set of inline feet from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, for my Cowboy CB4500, which is almost the same as a Class 4. I made a video of the inline presser feet in use. I believe that they cost about $125 or $130, plus postage. With the inline feet you can actually use the machine to sew outsoles onto a shoe, if it has 1/4 inch width before you sew and trim it.