Wizcrafts

How do you plan to, or are you currently sewing them? Your sewing method will point towards the best type of sewing machine for this job. I have sewn a few cue stick cases and other round pouches and dice cups in the last 10 years, or so, In all those jobs i used a long arm, large bobbin boot patcher to sew up the arm. I used #138 bonded nylon thread on the top and bottom, with a #23 leather point needle. The early cylindrical jobs were sewn on a Singer 29k172 patcher. The later ones were done on an Adler 30-7, which replaced the Singer in 2018.

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That is the G style bobbin that we rate at 1x capacity: the gold standard. I have 5 walking foot machines that use that same size bobbin. That is convenient, especially for prewound bobbins.

We have a Singer 29-4 patcher in our leather shop that was built in March of 1908. I use it regularly to sew patches over pockets and repair purse strap tabs.

I researched the bobbins for the Singer 236 post machines. The Singer part number is: #233939. They are a different size and profile than the G bobbins my machine uses. Goldstar Tool sells them, on this page. Cutex sells 10 packs of bobbin #233939 even cheaper. Here's a parts and basic operations manual for the Singer model 236, if you need it.

I have a different model Singer post machine. But, looking at the parts manual, the bobbin and case look similar to mine. My machine uses G size bobbins, which are the same ones used in the Singer 111 series. The bobbins fit inside and do not protrude above the top of the case. If they did, the spring loaded latch would not be able to close to keep the bobbin in place.

@Rob2613 I used to have an Adler 204-374, which is the flatbed version of the 205. I used it for about a year until I got a Union Lockstitch machine. The Adler was very smooth and solid. It sewed 3/4 inch (20mm) of veg-tan leather with #346 thread. The bobbins were huge cylinders, like the big Cowboy 441 clones use. My only reason for letting it go was that a person with a Union Lockstitch offered to trade it, even Steven, and I'm a ULS fanboy. The ULS are super finicky, but I Grok them. Two years later I learned about the Cowboy machines and proceeded to sell the Union Lockstitch. I've had a Cowboy cb4500 since 2012. It is solid and fully capable of sewing leather and webbing, or other materials, up to 23mm thickness, with bonded thread sizes up to #415. It has never let me down in the 12 years I've had it. The machine gets regular use and I oil it frequently (with light weight sewing machine oil). One consideration to bear in mind is the cost of accessories and replacement parts. Parts for Adler machines are very costly. Cowboy parts and accessories are more affordable. Every part and accessory I've bought fits perfectly. They are very high quality machines; part of the HighTex brand.

@MarshalWill One of our members just placed an ad for a Cowboy Outlaw for sale. Here is the post.

@Patrick1makes them in the USA. Read this topic to get up to speed and order a set.

When I started accumulating industrial sewing machines, they ALL had clutch motors. There weren't any servo motors available yet. So, I asked the dealers how I could get control over the clutch and they explained the tricks and techniques to me. One thing I did (and still do) is to add slack movement to the control arm so it takes more movement before the disks engage. This is done by backing off the large screw that goes into the motor on the clutch cap end. The more you back it out, the greater the free movement. Next, I learned that applying a very thin coating of machine grease allowed the clutch to slip a bit before it fully engaged. I eventually stopped needing to do that. The final adjustment was positioning the floor pedal to take any stress off of my foot. The linkage coming down from the control arm can be adjusted to raise or lower the inside edge of the pedal to suit your foot and ankle.

Your machine needs "System" 1738/16x257/DBx1 needles. That is the correct length and top width. The "size" is the diameter of the shaft below where it mounts. You want "size" 18 needles for #69 (T70) thread. So, buy a pack or two of "System" 1738 (DBx1/16x257, etc) needles in "sizer" 18 from whomever sells them online. Here's a link: DBx1 needles size 18 (round point for cloth). Leather point size 18 (16x257LR, 1738LR).

It is a fine upholstery and medium duty leather sewing machine. It can easily handle thread sizes 69 through 138, top and bottom. The high foot lift will let you clear thick seams or hardware. This machine has been discussed several times on Leatherworker.net: here and here are just two good topics.

The thread stub should not be attached to the bobbin latch! Remove it asap. I recommend installing the bobbins backwards to the flow.This keeps the bobbin thread under constant even tension.As for the tightness in the top thread, adjust the check spring to give more slack thread. That is done by rotating the thread check disk assembly to the right on systems like your machine. Loosen the little screw inside its curved slot, then loosen the nut on the front. Turn the disks to the right and lock it back down.

Once both feet are moving freely (doing whatever that takes), loosen the big screw on the back joint, lower the needle until it is just above the level of the throat plate and feed dog, then push the inside foot down to just hit the plate, and tighten the big bolt to lock it in place. This setting usually gives the best ratio of lift between the inside and outside feet.

You are missing the little known fact that the Adler 205 uses shims/spacers to set the distance between the hook and shuttle race. I've never had one of those machines, so I can't give you a better definition. Your machine may have been setup for #138 thread to optimize it in production use. In order to use larger thread, you need to buy the correct spacer. I think Weaver has them. If not, Campbell-Randall should have some. As a last resort, there's Durkopp-Adler USA..

As I suspected. The Consew 230 must be a tailoring class machine that uses System 16x257, aka DBx1, aka 1738. The shank on these needles is thinner than the walking foot needles being mentioned earlier. Machines using this needle system are meant to sew cloth. I use this system in my ancient Singer 31-15 tailoring machine and in a Pfaff serger.

Yes, those are the correct specs for a System 135x16 needle, size 18, to sew with #69 bonded thread, top and bottom. The only unasked question is whether or not your machine uses that needle System.. I brought this up because when I searched for needles for a Consew 230, I found System 16X257 listed, not 135x16. Did your machine come with a pack of needles that have the designation on a label?

I use a #18 (Metric 110) needle when sewing with #69 (T70) thread. This diameter is perfect for punching a large enough hole to bring the lockstitch knots up in the material, or leather, with #69 bonded thread. The 16/17 you asked about looks like part of a needle "system." e.g, 135x16 leather point of some shape, or 135x17 round point for cloth and synthetics.

I don't think the Pfaff 335 is what I'd call a heavy duty binder machine. Our member, @shoepatcher would know that better than me. But, if you need to sew heavy material and edge bind it, maybe look into a carpet binder walking foot machine.

@Lgbrs9 You can buy a large blade, wide handle screwdriver from your local hardware store. I have one with a blade that's almost 1/2 inch wide, and a rubber covered handle that's almost 2 inches in diameter. That screwdriver will loosen bolts like the one you need to deal with.

@Rob2613 You might be able to hire an attachment company to make a suitable folder that will attach to the T-bar plate that the sliding edge guide attaches to. This assumes that the T-bar plate is present on the arm. If it isn't, you won't even have an edge guide on the machine, unless somebody installed a drop down guide assembly. The Adler 205 series are long in the tooth by now. Parts may need to be ordered from Adler itself. Those parts are very expensive. Make sure you are getting a completely outfitted and working machine. Note, that there are clones of the Adler 205 machines that are made in China. Those companies may offer some of the the parts you may need, at a lower price.

The throat plate covers the feed wheel on the bottom. It has a detente that holds the tab on the shuttle, with a little side wigglke room for the thread to pass by it. The area you circled in red is athe pull back lever that pulls the shuttle back a little to assist letting the top thread clear the tab on the shuttle. It comes into play after you get the tab under the throat plate.

Yes. Loosen those two screws so you can lift up the throat plate enough to slide the tab on the shuttle into the recess on the bottom of the throat plate. Once it's inside that section, screw the plate back down. It will keep the hook from rotating as it does now. I can't help you any further until much later.

@Csahirad, the hook is spinning because the tab sticking out of it is NOT under the throat plate. Also called the Needle Plate, it has a cutout area that secures that tab and allows it to move sideways a few degrees, just enough to clear #138 thread. Loosen the two screws on the throat plate, rotate the shuttle until the tab finds the cutout under the plate, then tighten down the screws.

This is exactly what I was thinking of recommending!