Wizcrafts

I sometimes run my top thread through liquid silicon in a little lube tube that's sold by industrial sewing machines dealers, on and off line. The one I have screws onto a top post, plus I think has a magnet on the base. It has a transparent flip open reservoir for the lube. The thread gets routed through the bottom that has little channels for the thread to run in. The entire reservoir, with its closed lid flops over so you can route the thread under it. There is a screw running down the center of the tube to regulate the flow. Other hints when sewing on sticky Velcro: Use titanium coated needles, like the Groz-Beckert Gebeder series. Use diamond points for leather and round points for cloth. Use one size larger than standard (e.g., use a #19 needle with #69 thread, or a #20 needle with #92 thread). Increase the foot/feet pressure setting to hold down the Velcro as the loaded needle ascends on the upstroke. If the material lifts with the ascending needle, you'll get skipped stitches. A double toe foot usually holds the Velcro down better than a left toe foot. Add some slack with the check spring disk position, throw, and spring force. Move the hook closer to the needle. Do this in concert with adding slack in the check spring. Try some extra large eye needles. Schmetz makes some that can still sew through adhesives with less clogging of the eye. They offer a high end model named Schmetz "GO", which has an oversize eye and is sold in boxes of 100 needles per size. I have good luck with the more easily obtainable Schmetz "Serv 7" needles that can be bought in a pack of 10 needles. Finally, load a dauber with Goof Off and wipe it on the needle every couple of inches of sewing. This really works for me. If you decide to try sew-on Velcro, apply Leather Tape from Wawak down the center, avoiding the sewing borders. The tape holds the Velcro in place as you carefully sew along the perimeter. I do this to patches I sew onto bikers' vests and jackets.

My Adler 30-7 can get close to 4 to the inch in 4-5 ounces of low density, sliick-bottom leather. This drops as the thickness increases, or the leather gets tougher or stickier and harder to pull through. It can be easier to pull longer stitches if you engage the thread slack controller mechanism to give more slack during the take-up cycle. This is something I learned on previous Singer patchers. If the stitch length driving cam is worn, you can push from the front or pull from the back to help the leather feed at longer stitch lengths (up to its effective maximum). If your machine also has a T-bar darning attachment on top, you can use it to cheat and pull the leather as far as you want per stitch.

That Adler model was specially altered to sew moccasins. Here is just one of several topics on Leatherworker.net about the Adler 105-25 MO.

I believe that a previous owner had that roller foot custom built, along with a matching, wide feed dog and throat plate. Unless you can figure out how this setup functions, you'll be better off buying the stock foot, feed dog and throat plate.

Glenn was letting you know that the cam on the back is fitted onto the top shaft with a solid tapered pin. You'll need to rotate the hand wheel to bring that pin to the top, then pound it out with a drift punch. Note, the pin is tapered and only comes out in one direction, which I don't know about. After loosening the cam, hold the wheel and rotate the cam until the hole on the other side is facing up. Then pound in the tapered pin and test the machine.

T he 211g151 is NOT a walking foot machine. It is a needle feed machine. The needle moves in sync with the bottom feed dog, while dragging against the presser foot. I almost think I see a mini roller on one side of that foot. If so, it's probably a convoluted form of a roller foot to make it easier to feed sticky materials, like upholstery leather.

@MarkNY Did you glue or tape the layers together and is the needle going through the glue or tape? This can cause tension problems as the eye gums up. It can also cause the top thread to rat. Every now and then, after I've balanced the knots in a matching test strip, as I'm sewing the knots will start to show on top. When I investigate the problem, it's usually either that the bobbin thread has loosened, or twisted out of the tension spring, or the top thread twisted and got snagged along the way and became too tight. Things can change during active sewing, especially when you start, stop, speed up and slow down. Another thing to check is the presser foot pressure setting. There should be enough pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the ascending needle. If you have trouble balancing the knots, use the smallest needle that centers the knots. An oversize needle lets the knots move at the slightest provocation. Note that the tighter hole will require more top tension to bring the bobbin thread up. This may help if your leather has inconsistent density, or is glued or taped and it is sticking to the needle. Make certain that you are loading your bobbins evenly. I usually load them in so the thread makes a sharp turn as it feeds the slot in the bobbin case. This increases the bobbin tension a bit and provides better stability for staying under the tension spring. But, if there is any cross threading on the bobbin, or fuzzies, they will cause hiccups to the bobbin tension as you sew. Also, if the bobbin is out of shape, toss it and buy new ones that stay flat as they rotate. You should be able to buy prewound bobbins from A&E and other thread companies. They are usually would to exacting specifications for commercial use. I use a lot of prewounds and rarely have any issues with them. Finally, make sure the needle is inserted with the long rig on the left and the cutout facing due right. Oh, and use titanium coated needles if possible. The coating helps when sewing through glue and reduces heat buildup.

@AWORKOFMARC Check our marketplace, or Facebook Marketplace, or your local Craigslist for used walking foot sewing machines. Just beware of scammers "borrowing" photos from other ads for machines they don't actually have. Your safest bet is to find one for sale locally and pay and take it home in person.

I have a Singer 211G156 that I bought during the 2020 shutdowns, so I could sew at home. That machine has a small diameter pulley on the balance wheel and is meant to be run FAST. I put a servo motor on it to get better slow speed control, which helps. However, at the slowest settings the motor won't turn the machine over unless I spin the wheel. That machine was made to sew long runs of upholstery leather and other materials. Also, despite being an upholstery machine, it only uses a 1x G style bobbin. In case you do end up with the Singer, you can run #138 thread in it, but only if you get a speed reducer to increase the punching power. The G size bobbin will hold enough #138 thread to sew about 8 or 9 mens belts. Aside from the small pulley and G bobbin, it's a great walking foot machine. I use it to sew in zippers, or do seat covers. I don't use it for small leather projects.

We have a Wanted section in the marketplace, under machinery. Place a want ad there. But, beware of scammers who may reply with a referral to a friend who has one for sale. They send a stolen photo and an email address. You send the money and they disappear with it. This has happened a few times.

I wrote a long topic answering your very question. It is a pinned topic about the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather. I didn't address pricing. That's on the buyer to search for the best deal on a suitable machine. At least you'll learn what to look for and what to avoid.

There's only three things left that I can think of. Readjust the check spring for more or less travel, or tension, or slack. Check the main shaft to see if there is a lot of slop in the gears. If there is too much slop, starting and stopping with a jerk can throw off the timing. Check for sharp edges along the top thread path to the needle. If there's a thread guide on the bottom of the needle bar, remove it and check it for a sharp edge. Use Emory cloth to smooth it, or replace it.

I sew patches onto bikers' vests with various walking foot machines, and a patcher. I always wait for the needle to come upwards before turning sharply. This keeps the thread loop inline with the hook. If you turn before the thread is picked off, you will probably get skipped stitched. SOP is bring the needle up after the hooks intersects it before making a sharp turn.

My advice is to wait until the needle has risen about 1/8 inch above bottom dead center before making a sharp turn. It also helps if you lift the feet slightly to take pressure off of the item. If you make your turn with the needle all the way down, the hook hasn't picked off the thread yet and that leads to tangles.

Check inside the bobbin case for obstructions, or maybe an anti-backlash spring. If none of the G bobbins go in all the way, replace the hook.

I like your idea. I'll probably order a dozen one you finalize them.

The red machine is probably a curved needle out sole stitcher. You'd likely hold the shoe upsde down and sew around the sole from where it is skived in front of the heel. The gray machine is a McKay style insole stitcher. You place the shoe over the rotating horn with the bottom up and sew close to the inside of the shoe. A shoe repairman can explain it better.

You'll probably have to raise the needle bar to get the longer needle's eye in time with the hook, on the way back up.

A flat bed walking foot machine is the easiest to use for assembling jackets. Due to the thickness of some of the seams and layers, a Juki LU-1508NH might be a good machine. It has higher lift because it uses System 190 needles and can handle up to #207 thread, top and bottom.

I own a Singer 168g101 and love it for sewing patches onto vests and hats.

Hold back the starting threads, or at least the top thread, for the first 2 or 3 stitches.

That looks like a stud used to hold a flex lamp.

@Jose4616 Have you considered a used post machine? About 8 years ago I bought a used Singer 168g101, with compound feed walking feet and a 7 inch post. My machine can sew 3/8 of an inch if the leather isn't too dense. It uses the same G size bobbin as the Singer 111 and 211 series machines. I've successfully sewed with up to #207 thread in the bobbin and on top. It uses the standard walking foot System 135x16 (leather) and 135x17 (synthetics) needles. I bought it equipped with an analog servo motor, with a rotary knob to set the top speed. The motor hangs down from a box style speed reducer that lets me sew as slowly as I want without losing punching power. I got mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. You can call them and ask if they have one in stock that's working, or can be put in working condition. Their number is: 866-362-7397. Ask for Bob Kovar. I should point out that all walking foot machines suffer from a lack of visibility of where the needle will make contact unless you obtain a split inside foot. The split foot lets me see exactly where the needle is heading. This offsets the need for a roller foot machine in some cases. But, if you really need a roller foot, then hunt for the best model that meets your specifications. Take out a loan if you must, but don't settle for less than what you actually need. That's false economy.

I edited the model number for you. There is only a short window of opportunity for members to edit a post before it stops allowing edits. Moderators can always edit a post for you.

That's what I would try. Buy one pack of ten needles in a size and point that you'd use the most. If it works okay, buy the other sizes you'll need in System 190. Beware, thinner needles deflect more easily on this long system.