Wizcrafts

The red machine is probably a curved needle out sole stitcher. You'd likely hold the shoe upsde down and sew around the sole from where it is skived in front of the heel. The gray machine is a McKay style insole stitcher. You place the shoe over the rotating horn with the bottom up and sew close to the inside of the shoe. A shoe repairman can explain it better.

You'll probably have to raise the needle bar to get the longer needle's eye in time with the hook, on the way back up.

A flat bed walking foot machine is the easiest to use for assembling jackets. Due to the thickness of some of the seams and layers, a Juki LU-1508NH might be a good machine. It has higher lift because it uses System 190 needles and can handle up to #207 thread, top and bottom.

I own a Singer 168g101 and love it for sewing patches onto vests and hats.

Hold back the starting threads, or at least the top thread, for the first 2 or 3 stitches.

That looks like a stud used to hold a flex lamp.

@Jose4616 Have you considered a used post machine? About 8 years ago I bought a used Singer 168g101, with compound feed walking feet and a 7 inch post. My machine can sew 3/8 of an inch if the leather isn't too dense. It uses the same G size bobbin as the Singer 111 and 211 series machines. I've successfully sewed with up to #207 thread in the bobbin and on top. It uses the standard walking foot System 135x16 (leather) and 135x17 (synthetics) needles. I bought it equipped with an analog servo motor, with a rotary knob to set the top speed. The motor hangs down from a box style speed reducer that lets me sew as slowly as I want without losing punching power. I got mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. You can call them and ask if they have one in stock that's working, or can be put in working condition. Their number is: 866-362-7397. Ask for Bob Kovar. I should point out that all walking foot machines suffer from a lack of visibility of where the needle will make contact unless you obtain a split inside foot. The split foot lets me see exactly where the needle is heading. This offsets the need for a roller foot machine in some cases. But, if you really need a roller foot, then hunt for the best model that meets your specifications. Take out a loan if you must, but don't settle for less than what you actually need. That's false economy.

I edited the model number for you. There is only a short window of opportunity for members to edit a post before it stops allowing edits. Moderators can always edit a post for you.

That's what I would try. Buy one pack of ten needles in a size and point that you'd use the most. If it works okay, buy the other sizes you'll need in System 190. Beware, thinner needles deflect more easily on this long system.

The Consew 206-RB5 is an excellent walking foot machine. It's just one step below the Juki DNU-1541.

If you opt for a post machine, look for a heavy duty model with compound feed, and a large bobbin. I have a Singer 168G101 that I use to sew patches onto hats and vests. If you need a post machine for a job, have one ready. I have tried sewing post jobs on my cylinder arm machines and it isn't fun at all.

I consider these two jobs to be on opposite ends of a spectrum. While your upholstery will often be with thin leather, it will more likely be with synthetics of some construction. If you sew large seat cushions, banners, tarps, tents, Bimini covers, etc, you'll want a compound feed walking foot machine with an extra large bobbin, AND is rated for continuous high speed sewing of about 2000 stitches per minute. This rating can be lowered if time doesn't equal money in your plans. I know that when I sew long seams in seating, I turn the speed dial on full and floor it! The work starts to smoke about about 15 spi, so I run the thread though liquid silicon lube for those high speed jobs. On the other hand, when I sew leather that is not upholstery, I slow down the motor to a more controllable speed. Sewing very fast on leather makes the needle red hot and smoke comes out at about 15 stitches per second. It can even melt the thread! The same machine can do both jobs if it is rated for 2000 or more stitches per second, has a large bobbin and is in excellent physical working condition. A used upholstery machine might be shot by the time the current owner sells it. They're rode hard and put up wet. I've found that out the hard way. OTOH, if you buy a brand new machine, with the proper ratings, from an authorized dealer, you should get a lifetime of service out of it. Plus, if something goes wrong, you'll probably get free tech support from the dealer.

I have a Techsew 2700 cylinder arm machine that's mounted on a U shape table. The table sometimes gets in the way with saddle bags, back packs, or large bags. Other times it provides some useful support when I'm sewing jackets. I bought it used, as is. If I was going to order another cylinder arm machine, it would be on a pedestal. Sidebar: I do have a table attachment for the Techsew, but don't use it. I already have two walking foot machines on standard tables for all flat work sewing. My harness stitcher is a Cowboy cb4500, on a pedestal. I may have used its table attachment two or three times in 12 years. Speaking as a professional sewer, I recommend buying a flat bed machine for flat work and a cylinder arm for bags, hems, saddles, or anything than can simply curve over the arm and be happy. If the machine you choose has the needle really close the the left end, it will probably let items with bottom shapes and hardware pass by freely as you sew on their right edges. This is a big deal in my shop. I sometimes have to install a raised holster or stirrup throat plate to allow hardware or bottom shapes to clear on the left as I sew. You simply can't do this on a flat bed machine.

Guests cannot use our PM or Email systems. Those require forum membership. Interested parties must reply in plain text, which would leave their contact info exposed to harvesters and scammers. I suggest that you provide a means of people contacting you, or join the forum and use our message systems. For those asking for a location, my intel suggests Washington State, unless he is using a VPN, Please update your information with your location and a means of contacting you.

No, the motor is just an accessory. Singer serial numbers are punched into the lower right front of the base of the machine.

@Landcruzer94 I seem to have had this problem right after I got my CB4500. I believe my temporary fix was to loosen the screws on the stitch length nacelle and place a washer under the top, then screw it tight. This somehow corrected to variance between forward and backward stitches which occurred when I was using an accessory throat plate that didn't utilize the feed dog. With the feed dog in use, and standard plate, there is another adjustment inside the base of the machine that makes the holes hit in both directions. Are you aware that our member, @CowboyBobis the main Cowboy sewing machine dealer in the USA? He knows as much about adjusting them as anybody.

R.I.P. Eldon. We'll hold down the fort for you.

They also made a sub-model 205-374. The only difference I saw was that the -374 had a smooth feed dog and feet.

I understand. No problem. Stay here!

@TobZ We have a separate sub-forum for discussing 3D printers and lasers, as well as their programming and software. Check it out and you might find more technical responses than in the leather sewing machines forum. If so, as me or another moderator to move the topic to that forum and we will do that for you. All of the replies will remain intact and there will be a link to it for interested persons to follow.

I use standard Tandy style setting tools for Dot fasteners.

I didn't find any dedicated forums for bartackers or overlockers (sergers). However, they are occasionally discussed on Reddit and Quora forums. There are lots of Google results where people ask questions about these machines. Most who ask about bartackers don't own one. They just want to know how to form a tack with their own straight stitch or zigzag machine. I used to sew on a bartacker. You turn it on, lift the clamping foot with a floor pedal, position the work inside the open frame, drop the foot, then step on the GO pedal. In under 1 second the 42 stitch tack is finished! Keep it oiled and the feed cam greased and it should last a lifetime. An overlocker is called a serger in the US and Canada. Almost every alteration shop, or individual doing alterations, has a serger and can explain how to use one. If there is a sewing machine dealer near you, check to see if they give instructions on certain days or nights. Over here, Joann Fabrics stores contain a sewing machine section where one can ask questions of various machines. They actually have advanced classes on certain nights. The hardest part of learning to use a serger is threading them correctly, then setting the correct thread tensions. Once it is setup, there are a few tricks you can learn about starting and ending the serve. Some use 1 needle and 3 threads for a simple overlock. Most sergers have 4 or 5 cones and two needles. Home sergers are slow, but easy peasy to operate. Industrial sergers are as fast as greased lightening! There are plenty of YouTube videos explaining the use of these machines.

Actually, round point needles are the least likely to cut your previous stitches! But, they tend to get stuck in the leather, or squeak as the penetrate it. I've seen round point needles make smoke in veg tan leather when sewing at as little as 10 stitches per second. You may be able to reduce the amount of piercing of stitches by sewing in forward only and double tapping the starting and finishing stitches. The double tap is done by centering the stitch length lever so it doesn't advance the leather. You sew twice into the same hole and the stitches are locked solidly, as long as you have plenty of top tension.

Have you inspected the paddle shaped thread control spring in the needle bar? It is slightly visible from the left side when you lower the needle bar to BDC. The top thread feeds through that spring. Its job is to hold the thread in place as the needle makes its down-up-down jog. After decades of use that spring may have been gouged by thread, or just weakened, or even became twisted, thus no longer able to press firmly against the thread to hold it in place. Sometimes, the thread even gouges a channel into the needle bar, behind the spring, causing it to have little effect on the thread security. Without that spring, the loop tends to dissolve before pick-off time. Bob Kovar usually stocks the paddle springs and the tiny screws that secure it to the needle bar. He might even have a complete needle bar with the paddle spring attached. Replacing the spring calls for removing the needle bar. So, you may as well try to find a newer bar, complete with the paddle spring and a new needle clamping bracket. If Bob doesn't have the parts, @shoepatcherprobably does. I get patcher parts from him too.

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