terrymac

From your pictures, it doesn't appear you are beveling your edges or sanding them. Sanding is an important part of finishing edges and you are correct, burnishing is the correct term. If you can get hold of some old fashioned saddle soap, I think you would like the result better. Another important tip I picked up from Bob Parks is to use glycerine soap before applying the saddle soap. It really helps the leather begin laying down. If you have a piece of canvas or an old pair of jeans, you can these to get a pretty good edge, it just takes an awfully lot of work. Without dying your edges, I don't know if you will ever be able to hide the glue line between the two pieces. Bob's tutorial is really the best advice I have ever seen, and it really isn't very complicated. Hope this helps. Terry

Have a question for you, what in the world are you using to cut your stingray? That is the toughest stuff I ever tried to get a straight, smooth cut. Thanks, Terry

Best advice I can give is get rid of Eco products and go to Fiebling spirit or oil dyes. They will penetrate leather, not just lie on top like the Eco stuff. You might guess, I am not an Eco fan. Terry

Check out Leather Burishers.com Chris(Spinner) is a member of this forum. If he doesn't have what you want, I believe he will custom make one to your specs, and is very reaasonable in price. Terry

I would check and see what Bruce Johnson (member on this forum) has to offer. Advantages of buying from him are going to be a good quality knife and sharp, ready to go to work. Terry

I have never tried dyeing, and then stamping. I can't see where that would work too well. When applying a stamp to leather that has had moisture added, you are going to get a burnished (darkened) effect on the stamped area. That is normal and something we work to get.. I don't know how dark you are trying to dye the leather or how many coats of dye you are applying. I use a lot of Fiebling's dark brown, and just keep applying until it is a uniform color. I understand Wickett and Craig are now selling drum dyed leather, and one of the members here (Spinner) is reporting good results using this stuff. You may want to check out his recent thead on this subject, can't remember which section it is in. I just don't think adding moisture to a piece you have already dyed will ever work out. Good luck Terry

Wayne, You have got to change your name. That is as clean cut filigree work as I have ever seen. Really, really nice. Terry

Guarantee you can get too much oil. One time my father in law decided he would do me a favor, and gave my saddle a bath in Neatsfoot oil. It took 3 or 4 years before I could ride without my jeans turning dark. It didn't harm the saddle any way, but it sure played hell with my jeans. Only good thing was the was the quietest saddle I ever rode. Terry

I recently received an extra thick 3/8" angle blade from Paul at Leather Wrangler, duplicates those cuts identically. Those are just decoative hand cuts, done by someone pretty talented. Terry

Absolutely beautiful John. What weight leather did you use? Terry

Maybe they read the Al Stohlman book on hand sewing leather. The angle they are using is exactly what is recommended in the book, has a lot to do with maintaing integrity of leather. Terry

Bob, I really like your design. Are you going to attach to the top? I've been toying with the idea of doing something similar, but I would like to inlay into the top of the box.. Haven't exactly figured out how to do it. Maybe with a router and a wood chiesel for the corners. If you have any inspirations, please let me know. Terry

I think Bryan pegged it pretty well. I'm afraid when you tooled it, your vines, etc will look spindly with all the background area you have drawn in. Otherwise, great start. Terry

The shaft on my diamond blade is not round either, but it fits in the awl haft chuck just fine. That is why I simply pulled the awl haft chuck out of the wooden handle and put that round shaft in the 3 edge chuck of my drill p[ress. Works great. Terry

Get yourself a Flat Side Awl Haft from Tandy and pull the chuck out of the wooden handle. They are just pressed in and will come ouit. The chuck has a 1/4" round shaft. The closest thing I can think of to get what you want. Terry

Jim, Best advice I can give is do not apply any glue to the back or flesh side of leather. Just stick some 3M clear packing tape to the back of the leather, a couple of layers, and it won't affect leather at all. If I am doing something with a basketweave or larger backgound or matted areas, I will then take the tapped piece of leather and rubber cement to a piece of plexiglass. Prevents leather from distorting, and peels right off. Lot easier than trying to get glue off. Terry

3M packing tape works great applied to the flesh side of the leather. Doesn't harm leather. If I am doing a piece with a lot of basketweave or backgrounding, I will rubber cement the packing tape to a piece of plexiglass. Stops any distortions, and a whole lot easier than trying to get glue off leather. Terry

For someone tooling for only three weeks, you are doing one helluva job. The main thing I would point out to you at this point is to work on your beveling, making it smoother, and not leaving "tracks. While beveling, maintain the roundness of your curves, ie the petals of your flowers so they don't have somewhat pointy tops. The rest will come with time and practice, and at the rate you are progressing, I can't imagine what you will be doing in a year. Something that may be of benefit for you is one of Al Stohlman's books on proper tool use. He was a master at explaining things in a manner that made sense. Good job, Terry

It appears from your pictures, you are not applying enough antique paste. If you have spots that didn't darken, you weren't applying enough paste. Question, are you using Fiebing's Antique paste, or one of the Eco products? I found out the hard way, Neatlac and Eco products do not mix? Other question, are you using the wipe-on Neatlac (Clearlac) or are you trying to use the spray version? I apply two light coats of the Neatlac (wipe on), and let dry overnight. Then I apply the Fiebing's Antique Paste with a piece of sheep wool, and goop it all over, really goop. I then use sheep wool to get the excess off as you really want only to leave the paste that is in cuts, background areas, etc. If you don't, you will end up with with "dryed mud puddle areas" on your work. There is an excellent vide on antiquing on U Tube produced by a saddle shop (can't remeber the name). Hope this helps, Terry

From someone who has used Tandy knives for several years, including the Al Stohlman upgrades, believe me when I tell you the SK3 is head and shoulders above the Tandy. As Bobby Park has stated, sharpness is critical to good carving, and the SK3 comes super sharp, and is easy to maintain. I have not used the Henley or King knives, but I am sure they are good also. After spending a lot of time sharpening and trying to maintain a sharp edge on the Tandy knives, I thought I had died and gone to heaven when I started using my SK3. If you decide to go with the Leather Wrangler, be sure and get some of the green strooping compound Paul sells, as the alloy blade requires a "harder" type of rouge. I also agree with Bobby when he talks about starting out with a straight 3/8" straight blade. With an angled blade, it is really easy to get into the bad habit of undercutting your cuts. Learn with the straight, and then when the need arises, go with another type of blade. Just my 2 cents worth. Terry

You might try some 3M Packing tape and stick it to the back of the leather, probably should put on a couple of layers. If you have some plexiglass, you could get then glue the whole thing to the plexiglass with some rubber cement. It really help leather from bulging and stretching. Terry

Tina, I recently received a "thicker" angle blade from Paul, and it opens cuts just right. Give him a call and he can fix you up. Terry

I've never used a Henley, so can only go on what others say, and must be an awfully good knife from the number of pros using them. The thing about the Leather Wrangler is the metal in the blade, and its ability to maintain a sharp edge. Paul is using an alloy that he identified as being resistant to the effect moisture and elements in the leather have on the metal. He did a substantial amount of research with the aid of an electron microscpe at Sandia labs, and discovered what was happening to most blades was a micrscopic pitting of the metal that was occuring. This stuff he is using now doesn't do this. If you don't mind spending a lot of time sharpening and maintaining an edge, then probably any of the better knives will work. Me personally, I would spend most of my time tooling and stropping occasionly. I think I have put my SK3 on a stone maybe two to three times in over a year. Hope this helps, Terry

Just a couple of suggestions: 1. Use the wipe on Neatlac (Clearlac), and let dry overnight before applying the antique. 2. Use Fiebing's Antique paste rather than the Eco Flo antique products. You will end up with the ugliest colors in the world. 3. I don't believe the resist will work as a block for the dye very well. Hope this helps Terry

I believe he shut it down a month or so ago. Don't know the story Terry.