JLSleather

Welcome!

No pics of the colors set off all by theirself .. like yours. More like mixed in to something else... like scenery sometimes... The red really IS red.. more than the fiebings, which when thinned is PINK. not "thinned red". And the blues tend to be more blue, where the fiebing's cast a slightly green-ish tint when reduced (navy is almost black full strength). And the coffee is pretty decent if you tire of the reddish tine in fiebing's browns..

Yeah, teh difference is largely cosmetic (visual). And I'd go along with it that far. But that leap of "logic" takes a pretty good turn pretty suddenly. LIke, a cat is not a cow, and a horse is not a cow, therefore a cat is the same as a horse. So, they buy lower grade hides because they WANT less yield?#$#!@$! Hey, each his own. Granted, this is last year's price list. But it looks to me like the difference between "A" and "D" (and there IS a difference) is about $1.20 / foot. If you had a BIG side, say 24 feet (which is normal at HO) then teh total difference... if you buy "D".. you "save" a whoppin' $29.00 PER SIDE, not per piece. Personally, I prefer to pay the $30 and get the good stuff. Doing the math for anybody who could use the help 24 foot side of "A" times $8.03 = 192.72 24 foot side of 'D" times $6.83 = 163.92 This is a difference of $28.80 GRADE A for under $200. Wait.. lemme say that again. HO "A" grade for UNDER $200. 2015_HermannOak.pdf

Have we seen the SLC video about buying lesser grade leather? I stumbled across it and would have to look for it again. Basically, they buy NOT "A" grade because the "A" and the "D" are the "same thing". Really?@$! I 'get' it Kevin... leather removed from a cow, hung in the same vat of tanning stuff, same process. To that extent, it is "the same". But it's a good LEAP from two cowhides hanging in the same vat to D-grade being "the same" as A-grade. Do yourself a favor, really, and just delete that video (up to you, of course)... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOpqWydgr-s

Yep, normal. 40,000+ downloads going to pretty much every part of the planet, and about 25 popped in to say 'thanks' No worries.. they's prolly off makin up holsters!

Yeah.. what you said. We learn from our mistakes. I'm learning all the time

Usedta call that "feedback" No worries.-- I was just ribbin' these boys round here a bit

Understood --- 'preciate ya!

Options, really. Dye the leather a couple days early. Cut it oversize, dye it, FLUSH it with water, and when it's dry THEN cut out your pieces. When you form it, most of the "flushing" has already occured and unlikely to recur. Pain in the back, but it will work. Dye the leather as usual, but when you go to wet form, dip the holster, and then change the water. Perhaps more than once. Try poly thread.. this tends to pick up dye more slowly than nylon (at least, the brands I use are that way). Stitch the holster, wet form, allow to dry. Then cut the thread OUT and RE-stitch with white thread. Even bigger pain, but it WILL work.

I don't know if they still carry it, but the Tandy up the road had H.O. for a while, at $300 per side, and it was certainly the low end of the line (for perspective, HO "A" grade at teh tannery is about $200 per side). Kinda speaks to your original question though... maybe the name or where it's from isn't really the issue.

Welcome - glad to do it. See, this is how it's done... ya git a free pattern, then ya make the holster, then you either use the holster or sell it and pocket the money yerself. Then when ya come back to the forums, ya POST A PIC

That works! "cant keep up" is good .. long as it aint continuous, non-stop thing.

Yeah,like they say.. what's good for the leather maker is good for the holster maker ... er sumthin like that. But you keep talkin' bout fishin' and i aint never gonna git no work done Oh, wait... lemme guess... you spent the mornin' choppin' the front half off'n all yer pancake holster patterns!

Okay, finally git round to the double-mag pouch for that 45 SS 1911. Here ya have it. Oh, wait ... tha's that OTHER new one. Anyway, the mag pouch is comin' up shortly too.

You mean about makin' yer own patterns? Yall are welcome! Good to hear somebody is usin' that there stuff Know that feelin' where you find yerself in the kitchen, coffee cup in one hand, spoon in the other hand... thinkin' 'now what was I gonna do agin?'. That's the inspiration for that file -- so when I fergit what i was doin' I kin jus go read up on it

Sorry to hear that Mike. Little help maybe, but I just wanted to say THANKS for being ONE more person who still thinks. So much of the planet (and this forum) goes on about "customer service"... but some of us remember when 'customer service' meant giving you what you paid for... not a smile and a nice story when it's wrong. Don't "fix" it later.... give me what I paid for the FIRST time! You (and me) wouldn't buy a NEW car and then expect to have to "fix" it. I'm with you -- if you wanted to 'fix' and "work on" something, coulda just bought one used at half the cost. Particularly if the "warrranty" means we'll have 'nice' conversations on the phone (without fixing the problem). Not aimed at any particular scavenger retailer, but I dare say I could be nice all day too if I had a couple thousand of your dollars in my pocket Incidentally, I'm a former tool-and-die maker, so I actually CAN fix things. But when you pay full retail for new, makes no sense. I'm very "one-way" about it... I'll fix it myself OR I'll pay you to do it. But not both. I do not pay you AND fix it myself.

Certainly chrome tannage ("upholstery leather"). 2mm might be about right judging by teh pics... what us US boys would call 5/6 0Z leather.

HO claims to use only domestic hides. But "my question" wasn't for me -- just for your consideration. Maybe its made here with cows from here. Maybe not. Since I use the two I listed, it's not something that matters to me. Gotta wonder, tho -- if 'they say' that they " use only the finest U.S. steer hides", then why does your first post read " American Leather Direct says much of their leather is from U.S. sources " But you point out that you don't have "business license" (whatever that is). If you're talking about strictly retail purchasing, then your best bet might be to post in the "wanted" section, and perhaps someone here can get you the piece(s) you need for less than an arm ...

Thanks, Josh... never thought o' that cuz I never got no chap leather RED -- I gotta git me summa that there glycerin. Can't remember using any, truth is. But when I asked bout yer edge finishin', I meant due to the suede liner.

$7 is a GOOD price if the leather is decent. Most of us here, I would dare say, use leather from Hermann Oak (natural tooling leather at about $8) and/or Wickett & Craig (natural tooling at about $10) They are not the same, but both quite good. As for american leather, THEY may be in the US,but is the LEATHER from teh US?

If it helps, the holes in the bracket are for 6mm cap screws at 20mm on center.

OH>. yer talkin' about a dropped rig, and skirt holsters. See, now that I'd just go on cut with m' trusty knife. I do cut those on a bit of a curve, just don't git obsessed about what the curve is Last time I made something like that, I sent a bill that made it not really important if I wasted a little cowhide That's purdy.. just one question -- whatdya cut the tie downs from? Same hide? Latigo?

Lookin' good - - as always. It DO look like you got all the good miles outta that last one, too

This cobra machine came with two 6mm holes in the back. You can see 'em in the first 30 seconds of the cheap, low-rent, lame stinkin' video sum dummy dun put there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWd4FlRHv-Q

Welcome! If you like that, yer REALLY gonna like when I start uploading patterns what let a fella make 'em flat (ish) in the back without forming first