JLSleather

Yeah, they've taken hides back before. At some point, ya hafta wonder, .. WHY go through that? If I order from somebody, they send it, I don't like it, I send it back... so basically I just wasted a week er 10 days. If it happens ONCE, could be a mistake. Maybe the new kid in shipping was confused. If it happens 3 times in 10, that's a trend. And when it happens 7 in 10, that's a POLICY. I'll say that I HAVE received some usable leather from SLC, which is why I have given 'em so many opportunities to fly straight. But never got a piece from there that looked like the leather I get from Hermann Oak. Which is pretty sad considering this lower grade stuff is sold at 50% ABOVE the cost of the good stuff. My fault - I knew and jumped in anyway. I blame.. ME. So, just offering information. The money I lose is well spent, actually, to get the project out the door to the customer when I said I would. Integrity worth more than a few bucks. Sadly, few see it that way these days.

Whatcha think? Does SLC NOT KNOW what Hermann Oak "B" looks like, or do they THINK I DONT" know? I've called and complained enough times that I just wont do it again... it's pointless and only wastes more of my time. The entire shoulder area looks like road kill, and at SLC prices that's about $60-70 of landfill material. Oh, well - -the guy buying those shoulders I had for sale can have this... decide if he wants to use it (which I doubt) or maybe use it as a door mat for people to wipe their feet when they come in. This is a closer-up. Click to zoom, and i'll let the pics speak. Fortunately, I needed a bit of this to line a holster, and the area to the right of that big crease across the whole piece will let me get that project done. Course, couple hunnert $ for a piece to complete a $100 order doesn't seem to work out so good in the long run This isn't the first time, by far. Only posting this so that others, particularly the 'new guy', can see what leather is SUPPOSED TO look like. I have some other pics of materials I've ordered if you want to swap horror stories, but meanwhile let me show you what HERMANN OAK calls "B" grade leather. THIS is what you should be seeing when somebody tells you "Hermann Oak B".

good thinkin' This aint a 43x, but it is for a glock.- actually bigger'n the 43x. Guy WANTED "full cover" panel on the OUTSIDE. But point here is, if he wanted panel to the INSIDE, that wouldn't change the position of the "reinforcement" piece. Still needed to be under the RIGHT THUMB (a guy could learn how to use the pinky, if he cared to - just most people have stronger and more coordinated thumbs. With yours, you likely wanna make a "lefty", then just put the "reinf piece" on the OTHER side. This puts your "backing plate" on the inside, lets you attach it flush (though you might want to add a "shim" under the screws / stitching / whatever to give him room for grip. Back to workin' ....

This is ROUGH... video thing I tried but didn't like, left handed holster for a guy not left handed, and trying to hold the camera and stay out the lamp all same time S T I L L .... give a guy an idea how easy this should SLIP off Okay, that's not going well. -- I just send it to ya

Is he going to SEPARATE the "plate" from the holster? I mean, as in removable? Cuz if he's gonna use this plate ALL THE TIME, then it's efficient cost and time to simply SEW THROUGH both layers of the "holster" AND the "backing plate" all at once. Lay in on where you want it, sew the whole thing solid. Will keep it from flexing / rotating. Where does your pistol fall on your drawing? That Glock is 5" tall... is your plate gonna be the whole width? Or does the grip stick out past the plate? If he's right handed, you'd likely want the "reinf" piece on the OTHER side (which is a better way of saying what i was trying to describe before).

If teh guy wants the "backing plate" on the inside, let him have it that way -- don't matter. But my point was, you want to NOT change the reinf piece... he'll still be right handed. You are correct -- it's a STIFFENER. I generally lay out the "stiffener" to become also a PUSH OFF (unless, like this project, sometimes it's requested diffrnt). So his thumb still gonna be LEFT of the slide, no matter where you put a "backing plate". And while you certainly can run this 'stiffener" around the whole slide, I don't see it necessary in most cases. SHOOT .. you postin whilst I'm typin'... gimmeaminute to do something that sketch

But NOT the "reinf" eh? He'll still be right handed

Aint that backards? Is this fer a 'lefty'? I thot the guy wanted the "plate" on the BODY side. Ah.. pay no attention - I'm prolly not seein' it right.

Uh, kaint see why there would be. YOUR show, Boss You didn't say what type of light, so tough to say how to go. LET US KNOW what you end up doing (we dont generally object to pics, neither).

Uh, yeah - me too. The cowboy is $500 less ($650 when you consider the speed reducer already included) and has specs matching what he wants to make. Drop down guide is $40 and installs with a couple screws. My [only] cylinder machine came with a flatbed table add-on, but it's still in the bubble wrap it shipped in - never used it. Not sure about availability of dealers in the guy's location, but Bob aint so far from KY, right?

Well, there ya go. Not sure Wiz offers a recommend there, but smart money says if he and I say something different about sewing machines, go with what HE told ya

Well, I'm confident I make a good one, but I'm FAR FROM the only one, so ... maybe bronze? So basically he wants an OWB with no belt slots? 5/6 sounds a bit light for something that size, honestly. Even just a bump up to 6/7 adds much strength without adding much bulk. You want a holster, not a pocket protector particularly if you're relying on it for orientation. sew in a "stop' at the bottom. Make the holster 3/8-1/2" long on the bottom end, and sew a 3/8" wide strip of heavy leather inside the mouth. If'n a fella wanted ta git fancy, you could put a tension adj screw along there somewhere it won't catch. Ordinarily, I would put a "reinf" and the "plate" on opposite sides of the weapon. But since you have this spec, you'll want them on the same side. That "reinf" is also a "push-off" for easy out, so for me (RH) its' on the left of the slide, BODY side of the holster. Which in your case is going to be the side with the "plate", so you might consider a couple "shims" to jack out (level) the holster a bit in the pocket. Back ta work ...

Wow.. NOBODY?@! No WHY-tube movies er NUTHIN'?@! Maybe I should MAKE this one... prolly should ask that soft boy what i should CHARGE fer it Wait... that's worth a double

The primary question is WHAT YOU WANT TO SEW. If you're okay with sewing wallets with a #23 needle, then do that. Just remember you cannot "dial down" a #23 needle...it makes the hole it makes. And I have not seen needles smaller than that for the 3200 -- if they exist, then seems like some folks round these parts would like to know that. At this point, I'm not in the market for another machine, nor do I gain anything at all from somebody else buying one - so -- perhaps I've gone deep as I need to

Yup. If you're thinking Cowboy machines.. the 227R or 341 might work? I like a 69 thread (16 needle) on most wallet interiors and likely a 138 thread (20-22 needle) for most "outties". From Bob 'n' friends' site:

3200 for wallets? Must be some BEEFY wallets ...

Certainly looks good. I always thought the hard part was buffing the black and keeping it off the not black!

Who got the EGA stamps... eagle/globe/anchor thingie? Anybody make this in about a 3/4" wide (ish)? With some detail... not looking for line art. Semper Fidelis banner not required here.. too small for all that. Maybe I have to have a stamp MADE?

Biting off more'n ya kin chew is how you git better. I got a buddy is a long distance runner - always runnin' - who reminds me that if you want to get GOOD at runnin' 2 miles, ya gotta practice runnin' FIVE. Came out of it well, though ... buddy's wife is happy, meaning buddy is happy, ya got some learnin's, and it's getting sent out so your wife can't be upset that it doesn't match her cabinets

Thinned AND airbrushed AND STILL that dark?@! Looks good - but that must be some RICH dye. Some light thread and some silver buckle lightened it up just about right.

This is ALL dunn spoke for.

Always that thing about terminating embossing rolls, eh? Color is nice, stitchin' looks tight. First response was mighta left more room under the grip (to get the grip) but maybe ya was protectin' that laser?