JLSleather

If teh guy wants the "backing plate" on the inside, let him have it that way -- don't matter. But my point was, you want to NOT change the reinf piece... he'll still be right handed. You are correct -- it's a STIFFENER. I generally lay out the "stiffener" to become also a PUSH OFF (unless, like this project, sometimes it's requested diffrnt). So his thumb still gonna be LEFT of the slide, no matter where you put a "backing plate". And while you certainly can run this 'stiffener" around the whole slide, I don't see it necessary in most cases. SHOOT .. you postin whilst I'm typin'... gimmeaminute to do something that sketch

But NOT the "reinf" eh? He'll still be right handed

Aint that backards? Is this fer a 'lefty'? I thot the guy wanted the "plate" on the BODY side. Ah.. pay no attention - I'm prolly not seein' it right.

Uh, kaint see why there would be. YOUR show, Boss You didn't say what type of light, so tough to say how to go. LET US KNOW what you end up doing (we dont generally object to pics, neither).

Uh, yeah - me too. The cowboy is $500 less ($650 when you consider the speed reducer already included) and has specs matching what he wants to make. Drop down guide is $40 and installs with a couple screws. My [only] cylinder machine came with a flatbed table add-on, but it's still in the bubble wrap it shipped in - never used it. Not sure about availability of dealers in the guy's location, but Bob aint so far from KY, right?

Well, there ya go. Not sure Wiz offers a recommend there, but smart money says if he and I say something different about sewing machines, go with what HE told ya

Well, I'm confident I make a good one, but I'm FAR FROM the only one, so ... maybe bronze? So basically he wants an OWB with no belt slots? 5/6 sounds a bit light for something that size, honestly. Even just a bump up to 6/7 adds much strength without adding much bulk. You want a holster, not a pocket protector particularly if you're relying on it for orientation. sew in a "stop' at the bottom. Make the holster 3/8-1/2" long on the bottom end, and sew a 3/8" wide strip of heavy leather inside the mouth. If'n a fella wanted ta git fancy, you could put a tension adj screw along there somewhere it won't catch. Ordinarily, I would put a "reinf" and the "plate" on opposite sides of the weapon. But since you have this spec, you'll want them on the same side. That "reinf" is also a "push-off" for easy out, so for me (RH) its' on the left of the slide, BODY side of the holster. Which in your case is going to be the side with the "plate", so you might consider a couple "shims" to jack out (level) the holster a bit in the pocket. Back ta work ...

Wow.. NOBODY?@! No WHY-tube movies er NUTHIN'?@! Maybe I should MAKE this one... prolly should ask that soft boy what i should CHARGE fer it Wait... that's worth a double

The primary question is WHAT YOU WANT TO SEW. If you're okay with sewing wallets with a #23 needle, then do that. Just remember you cannot "dial down" a #23 needle...it makes the hole it makes. And I have not seen needles smaller than that for the 3200 -- if they exist, then seems like some folks round these parts would like to know that. At this point, I'm not in the market for another machine, nor do I gain anything at all from somebody else buying one - so -- perhaps I've gone deep as I need to

Yup. If you're thinking Cowboy machines.. the 227R or 341 might work? I like a 69 thread (16 needle) on most wallet interiors and likely a 138 thread (20-22 needle) for most "outties". From Bob 'n' friends' site:

3200 for wallets? Must be some BEEFY wallets ...

Certainly looks good. I always thought the hard part was buffing the black and keeping it off the not black!

Who got the EGA stamps... eagle/globe/anchor thingie? Anybody make this in about a 3/4" wide (ish)? With some detail... not looking for line art. Semper Fidelis banner not required here.. too small for all that. Maybe I have to have a stamp MADE?

Biting off more'n ya kin chew is how you git better. I got a buddy is a long distance runner - always runnin' - who reminds me that if you want to get GOOD at runnin' 2 miles, ya gotta practice runnin' FIVE. Came out of it well, though ... buddy's wife is happy, meaning buddy is happy, ya got some learnin's, and it's getting sent out so your wife can't be upset that it doesn't match her cabinets

Thinned AND airbrushed AND STILL that dark?@! Looks good - but that must be some RICH dye. Some light thread and some silver buckle lightened it up just about right.

This is ALL dunn spoke for.

Always that thing about terminating embossing rolls, eh? Color is nice, stitchin' looks tight. First response was mighta left more room under the grip (to get the grip) but maybe ya was protectin' that laser?

'preciatecha Them wallets went out a good while back.. just pics that were already on this site. And the bracelets are comin a year old now, and my daughter and her friend are ridin' pretty hard about gittin new ones done in black shark hide.

That how to lace book really has a LOT of information - worth getting (and free doesn't hurt a bit). https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1110/how-to-lace The holes you'll want to use can depend on the type of lacing you want to do and the type of product you put it on. For most small items - notebooks on down - I use a "double loop" lace more often than not ... and when I do that, I like angled slits - not punched holes. A little experience will teach you what YOU prefer - don't take long to get the hang of it. Angled slits, but I punched a small (like size 00) hole in the very corner. Allows the lace to flow and lay straight despite the bulk of lacing through the corner hole 3 times. Same "double loop" lacing, but used small round holes due to the snake (python) skin. Slits may start a tear in the very thin (and fragile scale) snake hide.

Well, I aint suggesting doing it that way is "wrong",.. just different. Each his own, and all that But you're right about NOT re-wetting the leather - that's a no. I have covered areas I wasn't able to get to , and went ahead and completed the section I was working on (as you did here). That does work, though as a rule I absolutely try to finish a carving once i start it. Just FYI: when you need to cover it - whatever reason - I find that the tracing film you used for the design works just fine (the clear film, not the paper). And I don't fridge, or dish soap in the water, or stand on the left leg to tool on Tuesday. Honestly, I don't know WHERE some of that stuff comes from "Cool to the touch" is another one gets used a lot, but means nothing. If my shop is 65%, then leather is "cool to the touch" no matter how dry it is or isn't. Yer toolin's lookin' purdy good .. carry on!

I'm guessin' that ship calculator isn't working quite right? I know it's been a while since i sent packages this size, but pretty sure this isn't $35 - $175 for this ONE BOX

Lookin' good. You tool different 'n' me (I don't background til everything else is done). I've done that design before, lookin' at this I think I mighta done it upside down

OoOpps. THat should say 1.5" , not 1/5" (darn keyboards) or ONE POINT FIVE inches . as in 1 1/2" wide Without checkin', I'm gonna say that ALL of them are at least 50" long, a few might be 60"