JLSleather

If you absolutely want to stay below $600, your best bang for the buck to make holsters is ... a drill press. Not a joke - a drill press with a sewing needle instead of a twist drill... will poke holes perpendicular to the surface, with the proper shape and orientation, with little effort. Mark the stitches out with an overstitch wheel, "poke" the holes with a needle in the chuck (don't turn the press on!), and then HAND sew it in those holes. Bonus.. pull the needle and swap for a burnishing tool and you got ONE machine pulling double duty. Doesn't take much to hand sew a holster. A "deal" is not a deal if you end up with something that doesn't do what you need. Adding - I would be okay with a holster sewn with 207, but I wouldn't go smaller than that. And my holsters are glued AND sewn. 207 thread gonna require a #23 needle (some fellas prefer a #24), so maybe look for a machine that can take a #23 needle.

These pieces are almost entirely 7/8. The shoulders are mostly 7/8, and I know there's one or two in there 4/5. I'm hesitant to rush to pics, since i'm not interested in selling ONE or TWO. I'm EITHER going to clear it out, or count it and keep it. Got a row or two of 1/5" HO belt strips in 7/8 natural ... but again - not looking to sell ONE. How about 10-paks or 12-paks? Hermann Oak tooling leather, "A" and "B"... and I mean REALLY IS A and B,.. not what some retailer said was "not as bad as the other stuff they carry".

Guess I never thought of 20's as "wholesale". Had a guy once, looking at a tooled wallet he thought was "pretty nice". Asked if I sold them and maybe they'd like to put some in their store and see if they sold. What would it cost to get some made in advance, no names or such? Apparently thought the price was okay, .. wanted to know how long it would take to make the first THOUSAND

I do not have a shop, and tomorrow I'm going to not have one again. For what a lease would cost here, you could BUILD, and then they'd kick your teeth in on the property tax But I have more than enough "down time" just talking to people on the phone, without people coming in to hang out. And they do - if you've ever been in any store you know that they do. Don't even really do "shows". I did set up at one about this time last year - again lots of "lookers".. and a few fellas that would have bought IF I had a holster for their model ready to go. Basically curbed that a few years back - more time and trouble than it's worth. A weekend show means 30-40 hours of NOT making goods. As for refusing orders, it's my party and I'll snub who I want to. Wife says "you can't just make what YOU want to make".. but she's been barking that for well over a decade I have business cards and a phone. Pics on the web site and IG. If somebody wants to see something, I can make that happen, but just too many issues to have people coming in just to "look".

Inventory time AGAIN (darn that tax thing!) No time for this - even if I could find time, I wouldn't want to bother. SO THEN.. a chance to get some smaller pieces (smaller than sides) for INSAVE pricing (that's a new word, fer crazy 'n' save). I'm not measuring every piece (or else I could just do the inventory) but this looks to be about 12-14 feet of leather. That's a 2' carpenter square and a 6 foot straight edge in the pic. Natural leather is Hermann Oak tooling leather, with the exception one lighter piece of natural tooling, don't remember where that was from, and a couple small rectangles of W/C dark brown english bridle left over from something, darkest stuff by the chair leg (might be 1.5' feet?). Colored is W-C "chestnut' and black skirting. Unfinished, so can still be stamped and dyed if you care to. Most of this is in the 7/8 oz range. Nothing long enough for belts, but a guy makin' pet collars or knife sheaths can go nuts! $60 for ALL of this showing. Also have some single shoulders I could let go - or not. Let me know if thats something you can use. Looks like I got 5 er 6 single shoulders...which would make it maybe 30-40 sq feet. Some if Hermann Oak "B" grade, some is W-C "standard' in natural and russet. Make an offer on the whole stack!

I like it. Guy coulda incorporated that lizard, and I'd still like it Initially, I thought the gatah was part of the project (which I would not mind, though I realize that's more sewing). Or caiman... what is that anyway? Who wants to tell that lie that they can identify one from the other at this stage? Good call on not displaying the date of the printing on the currency.

Yeah, I tried wunna them not so long ago. Sent it back. It worked okay, but not noticeably better than another.

Disclaimer: I don't "strop". I REPLACE a swivel blade. Used to be, I would set a dull one off to the side, figure I'll sharpen it later when work slows up some. But I never did.. I'd end up with 8 or 10 not so sharp, and just ADMIT that Im NOT going to sharpen those and give them to somebody who will. That said, I DO think that this is a better approach than a leather "strop". Leather will 'flex", allowing a rounding of the surface that [ theoretically ] you are trying to eliminate. Card on the stone -any "flexing" or "rolling" of the surface would need a magnifier to see... much flatter surface result.

Actually, I think you're right.. most DON"T care about that. I don't think anybody is deliberately "concealing" where they are. Just for most things it doesn't make any difference. Today, I commented on a holster you made - according to your profile - in WY. I would have had the same comments on that holster if you made it in CO.. or OR... or anywhere else. I liked that holster, and didn't matter where it was made. When I order stuff, I give 'em the address where I want it shipped. Those not sending me stuff don't need the address. Also - to give me the web site for where I order Hermann Oak sides or machine bobbins doesn't require knowing what I'm having for lunch, who and how many I'm dating, or the underwear i'm wearing. None of it is national security... just not relevant to the question asked SOmebody wants to NOT answer a question, then don't - no need to even give me a reason why.

Then you already got there... couldn't tell from the pic. Never mind me then! Course, when I was younger and doin more huntin'... we didn't need all that fancy stuff. We wanta deer, we just runnim down an snap 'is neck

That's a bit different layout - I don't mind that one bit Looks like once a fella got used to the different snap config, should work right fine. Might try makin' one with the back laminated... prolly hold it's form longer. And if I was being picky, I'd offer ta send ya some lighter thread. I don't mind light thread on dark leather (even white on black) but I aint never been a fan o dark thread on lighter leather. Personal preference is all

And.... there you have it. We order "skirting" leather split down to what we need. W-C natural "skirting" (tooling) leather is very light, almost bleached color. Hermann Oak is a bit more color (I wouldn't use the word "darker"), and W-C "russet" leather is a bit more color than either (but not as much color as the chestnut). We order black already dyed black, just because it saves us quite a bit of time and we KNOW we'll need black. But even the black tools very easily. At some point I get some room and I'll photo all of these side by side.

If you're making straps, bridle leather is nice. But the skirting can be tooled, stamped, dyed, stained, whatever. Not sure who told you that skirting is stiff. Some probably is - somewhere. But "stiff" is't a word I would use for W/C skirting.. certainly it's less "stiff" than Hermann Oak skirting - and even that isn't "stiff". I make belts from it all the time. Having said that, I have also made belts from W/C english bridle, which turn out quite nice (the chestnut is STUNNING). Keep in mind: W/C has sent us some FANTASTIC leather, but all places have "grades" of leather - not all "skirting" is equal. We always buy the top shelf stuff, no matter where we shop (which is why some places can no longer sell us leather). RARE to see me "endorse" somebody, but I'll speak up a bit for W-C. Their lower grades may be "stiff".. and maybe that's what they were referring to - I've never bought those so I wouldn't know. But their "standard" grade DOES work well for what you describe.

Yeah, something like that I use 3/4 oz leather for the carving piece, and like 2 oz on the inside. STILL, that aint so bad fer a fella what got a picture and a piece of cow and wentta toolin' ! You learned leather weight use and some stampin' basics - and got some experience at both - all without 10,000 posts and 100 hours of video poo! You gonna mess round git good at this!

Intimidated? Maybe I shoulda condensed a bit more! I mean if you want to learn "equine" stuff, then learn that. If you want to make wallets, then learn that. And if you want to make drink coasters, then learn that. None of them "harder" or "easier" than the other - just different. Surfers don't get better by practicing tennis

I do not believe that you "work up to" making horse gear. I have made about a JILLION belts over the years, in many styles, colors, even different shapes. And perhaps as many wallets of various types. And notebooks, handbags, and a few things I made even though I didn't really know what they were for - just made them to the specs I was given. But NOT ONE BIT of that would be acceptable "training" for making "horse stuff" (I've even made belts and wallets with horses on them, and some FROM horse hide). Those things have in common that they are made from leather. And that's all. So you could learn sewing leather, burnishing leather, tooling leather, dyeing/staining/oiling leather... and still know NOTHING about "horse stuff" The only way to learn how to make "horse gear" is to make "horse gear". I certainly could see a young girl having fun making her own (or even for others) chaps - and having a useful finished item when she's done. But again, you could be well experienced making chaps and still know nothing about saddle making. The reverse is equally true - you can know saddle building and not know chaps or wallets (a saddle maker figure out belts pretty durn quickly). I wouldn't fear jumping into saddle making, as some suggest, though that doesn't seem to be what you asked exactly. "Pro" saddle makers weren't born that way -- everybody starts somewhere. Maybe that somewhere to start is NOT HERE?@! Stohlman, Grant, and Johnson are well-known names in the field, I think THAT is your start. Here is likely to get you a list of other books, some suggested videos to watch aimlessly, and some "i don't know but what i might do..." ONE MORE TIME: Saddles are not "bigger wallets". They aren't "like a belt but more stuff", or "the same thing on a different scale". Yes, they're all leather. But dump trucks and sports cars are both "motor vehicles" and both are steel and internal combustion. Still you wouldn't ask a guy who does one to work on the other - NOT the same thing.

AS A RULE, when you see patterns by others, you can make the object and sell it. What you can't sell, or reproduce, is the PATTERN. Many pattern makers retain the rights to their designs, though not many actually enforce it, which adds to the confusion. Now, there is some suggestion that page 18 of stohlman's "how to make holsters" may be considered by some to be "public domain" and free for all to do as you wish. I AM NOT a subscriber to that, nor do i recommend reproducing any part of that or any other book not belonging to you (without expressed permission to do so). But, you know - it has happened ANY PATTERN I UPLOADED on this site is "fair game".. you may do with it as you see fit. GIVE it away , share it freely with everybody.. no worries.

PHEW! I was really hoping a saddle maker was going to get in here. I like to at least view information I may be able to use, even if it wasn't my question, and I sure didn't want to hear SADDLE "information" from y-tubers who don't make saddles

I aint a fan o' rivet construction - never was. But I don't mind this one bit. First thought was how ya keep it slidin' down the arm, but I see ya got that in the works. Looks like it's comfortable and workable, even though its BACKARDS. Riveted might be smart from a layout point of view... faster than stitching so you can adjust the pattern quickly if ya want. Good news... it's still not too late ta go back 'n' stitch it if a fella was ta want ta

So they left you still not knowing the cause of the problem? How will you avoid it happening AGAIN if you don't know what it was? "never mind the problem - we'll just swap it for another one that may do the same" doesn't strike me as "customer service"?

Marking ...

That 31 is tough, aint it! '30' jeans too snug and '32' jeans baggy... and hardly find somebody selling 31's. But.. that was then I make a point to get up out the chair and exercise a bit, but I don't see me ever eating LESS Back to the question asked.. the only belts I ever laced were those done in snakeskin... and that was largely to protect the scales from getting "rubbed the wrong way". Worked well. and, I recently remade a buckstitched belt for a gal's husband.. original belt was over 40 years old. The lace was in rough shape, but still holding, and the lace is easily replaced if that's your issue.

darn things do shrink, eh? still no reason to throw a .tif

Angelus paints (acrylics) are actually quite good. I'd guess that if you were getting issues when applying 'finish" that your paint wasn't sufficiently set up yet. Our process is not the same as yours, but I would recommend applying the dye, then allowing to set up (and with black, also buffing it out), THEN applying the "paint", and allowing THAT to set, and THEN applying a finish. It really sounds like you aren't allowing enough time between steps.

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