Jim

This is an unfortunate side effect of the sewing machine. The attached photo shows how it does look on the one side and how you want it to look on the other and how to make that happen. I've never used a sewing machine so I'm no expert, but when hand sewing I pass the lead thread under the overlap at the last stitch and then continue on with the stitch line. I can't see that happening with a sewing machine. Sorry for the bad news. Maybe someone has solved this problem. Jim

Try this on for size. It's a prototype I drew up on another project. Keep in mind that the patterns are on 11 x 17 Tabloid sheets and when printing (if prompted) set the Page Scaling to None. Jim Muzzle Loader Holster.pdf

From experience I learned that if the tracing on the leather is not exactly the same shape and size of the pattern template then something is going wrong. Most often the pattern is moved during the tracing process. A simple fix to this is to use Push Pins and insert them into existing holes that will be punched for stitches, rivets, or snaps. Then trace the pattern with a scratch awl right along the edge of the pattern. This works for small to large patterns. My personal choice for cutting is a utility knife because it gives me control and a good smooth cut so I don't have to use a belt sander to trim it up. See the photos. Hope this helps. Jim

What model and caliber Ruger is it? I probably have a pattern. Jim

The absolute best way is to mark out your stitch placements on your template. That way you can fudge a little to get them evened out. Then use a scratch awl to premark them on the leather. Done it this way for many years. Hasn't failed me yet. Jim

My apologies. I misunderstood which awl. Also, when you have all the stitch holes pre-punched, you don't have to glue it together. All gluing does is create the probability of the holes getting mis-aligned. Put the welt between the two sides of the sheath and tie it off in a couple of places. Then sew it up removing the "tie offs" when you come to them. Trust me on this, it works much better. Jim

I used to use a sewing awl. I watched my dad do repairs on saddles and other things and that's what he used, so as did I. It did not take long however to figure out that I could sew a lock stich by hand a whole lot faster by hand after pre-punching the holes. This not only saved time but also saved me the risk of the awl needle breaking. (sorry for the history lesson folks.) The thing to do is: 1 - Retire that sewing awl. 2 - Find the center line of your sheath template and draw out your stich line and stich placements one side of the template. A 3/16" spacing for the stitches is ideal. Place a metal ruler or 12" framing square on the center line and fold the template over with the stitch marks showing. Then use scratch awl to punch the holes through both sides of the template at once. Now, you can transfer this to the leather, cut and trim and then pre-punch all the stitch holes. When you sew it together, everything line up. Problem solved. Use the attached PDF to help you along. It's a portion of the Book of Leather Work. Jim Knife Sheath.pdf

Being as you have an example of what you're wanting to make gives you what you need to replicate it. From her it's simply a matter of measuring out the dimensions of the pieces, stitch lines, and any fold allowances, (if there are any folding parts.) Learning to make your own templates for a smaller, simple item is good training for evolving into the bigger stuff. Look at the money clip, see how it's put together, (which you have already done,) and draw out the pieces on poster board. Use a small framing square to draw out the basic shape of the pieces and then round off any corners with the help off whatever you can find to use as a drawing aid. I've used small plates, coffee cups, and even a nickel to radius a corner to that "just right" round off. Once everything is drawn out, cut them out and put the template pieces together to see if they lay out to the shape and design you're wanting. However the templates look is how the project will look. Modify the templates as needed and once perfected, trace them to the leather. Also, there are a host of folks here that can help along the way. Jim

This coming from a gut that can't spell his own name Jim

Fellers, if the holster is a little tighter than you'd like it to be, enlarge the the next holster template just a bit. Wet molding is not needed. Trust me on this. Jom

The thing with artificial sinew is that it's waxed nylon and knots will slip out and come untied. The trick is to sew with a lock stitch by hand. When at the end of the seam, thread the ends on a needle (separately) and run them back through the stitch holes and come out between the two layers of leather. Tie off, trim, and the use a bic lighter to melt the ends. Thus will secure the knot as well as hides it. Oh yeah, retire that seeing awl. Sewing the lock stitch goes much faster by hand. Jim

Well, I've bought bad leather as well. :oops:That's how I know. We learn as we go, don't we guys?

From my experience (and mine only) block dyeing does not always get the desired results. It's a little hared to control to get the "just right" effect. For the holster shown here, after I dyed the leather, I used a dauber to add the darker dye to the edges all the way around. I actually used a cigarette lighter to burn off some of the wool to make a more compact dauber to be able to control the amount of dye being applied. Experiment with this on some scrap pieces and you will get the technique down. Holler at me, Jim

From the photos I can see that you're not pulling the stitches too tight, so that's not the problem. You will run into leather that will tend to wrinkle after being dyed. This is not your fault either. Some cheaper leather you get can come from the belly which is a lower "grade" due its lack of body. Shoulders and backs produce the better leather even in the lighter weights. Also, it depends on who and how the leather was tanned. Herman Oak Vegetable Tanned is the best and is worth the money. Mexican Urine Tanned, RUN! Hang in there. Jim

I would like to add that most SASS shooters use the Strong Side and a Cross Draw holster. Only slow pokes like me shoot two fisted. As Colt pointed out, the cross draw was preferred for carrying a pistol while mounted on horseback. If you look at any example of1800 Military Holsters, they were made to the cross draw configuration. The typical Cowboy Holster of the time was not quit as refined as the modern holster as they were deep set and had a wider loop which allowed the holster to be set as a cross draw while on horse back. Also, holsters of the time did not have the Hammer Thong. This addition came along late in the twentieth century as a safety measure to keep Hop-a-long and the gang from dropping their pistols out of them fancy low slung holsters they wore while ridding after the outlaws. Jim

That was made for the World Famous Hurricane. Her and her husband are very good friends of mine. Jim

Here's a photo to let you see what was involved in the gun belt. It's not a typical single drop gun belt, it is a one of a kind. Jim

Well you have to keep in mind that Thomas Jefferson said that all men were created equal. Women on the other hand are proof that our Creator has a sense of humor and us equally created men are the butt of the joke. After all, they have them "hips" that befuddle us in more ways than one. All jokes aside, a few years ago I took on a job for a custom gun belt for a rather famous lady SASS member that turned into an engineering project. It's a one of a kind. That bring said, is there a right way to make a belt? Yes. Is there only one way? Heck no. The point is that sometimes you can hit the nail over the phone but most of the time we have to meet with the person and work out the bugs before we cut. Your not the only one that's had to re-do an order. Ouch! Jim

Dwight, your right. And is why I added the never fail belt tester. When in doubt, measure it out. (Wow, two rhymes in a row.) Just proves that the customer ain't always right. If some one give you wrong information, they pay for it. That'll learn em dern em! (Man, I'm on a roll!) Love you all! Jim

And thank you Texas Jack. I remember too well whenever I asked a leather worker how something was done and always got the same answer; TRADE SECRET! I swore that I would never say that to anyone. Never have and never will. Jim

You'd better believe it!

Howdy Folks, This is a collection of Floral Patterns for Old West Mexican Loop Holsters I created for a new holster pattern series. These were drawn up from inspiration gained by looking at some of the examples of holsters made in the late 1800s. See: Packing Iron. I hope y'all have fun with these. Jim Holster Floral Patterns.pdf

Bruno, just going to have to give another WOW! Modifying patterns is what separates the masters from the wanna be's. you truly out did this ole cowboy! Jim

WOW! Just . . . . WOW! By golly this has inspired me to hand out the Tooling Patterns I created for this holster. These are based on designs used in the 1800s for holsters in photos that I have seen in Packing Iron and other sources. Good work Bruno! Jim California Floral Patterns.pdf

You did not make a bad purchase. Deer skin is pretty tough and will hold up. Being Chrome Tanned, it doesn't dry out and crack from getting wet. Sweat can be a factor if used as a lace for necklaces over a long period of time. But as for friendship bracelets it will do well. Jim