Jim

First off I cannot say it better than Hilly said it. The most imortant thing for a Crafter to do (any crafter) is to THINK IT THROUGH! Draw you project out on paper, place your stitch lines and holes on the pattern and count, count, and re-count them holes! Place tic marks on every tenth stitch hole around the edges of large or small projects to help keep up with the count. Trust me, this helps! Cut out the paper patterns and place them together to work out the bugs. Paper is cheaper than leather! And one more thing - don't rush it! Have fun, and holler if you have questions . . . . someone is always here to help. Jim

Vikefan, There's a hundred ways to do this and they ALL work, but 99 of them require practice as suggested. Practice, however requires a full scrap box to meet an end. I recommend you draw out the stitch marks on the Pattern Template and then pre-mark them on the leather with a scratch awl. Then you can pre-punch all the holes on both sides and when you sew the holster or other item together, everything lines up and looks like you want it to. . . . without the over-flowing scrap box. Jim

I have some of Lone Wolf's knives and by the looks of it, he's got some major competition. Nice job!

By golly, that one's got STYYYYYYLE! Hey, that knife wouldn't happen to be a Lone Wolf, would it?

This photo was too big to add to the previous post, so here it is. Have fun.

Have fun with these. Jim Cowboy Cuffs.pdf Cowboy Cuffs.pdf

He Butch, now there's a rig to be proud of! I got a tip for the edging (being as you mentioned it.) There are a hundred ways to do it and they all work, but tthere is a quik and simple method using an Edger/Creaser like the one in the photo. When you finish doing what you do (so very well) to the belt and or holster, use a darker dye (dark brown or even black) and re-apply ir to the vey edge of the leather with a dauber. While the dye is still wet, use the small slot on the Edge/Creaser and rub the living daylights out of the egdes until slick and shiney. This can be done in short stages so you don't have to try to do the whole belt at once. After this, rub the edges down with Resolene apllied on a damp sponge. The edges on the holster shown here were done in just such a manner. Hope this helps and keep up the great work! Jim

Hey Mike, Here's the answer to the lace cutting problem. (View the PDF.) This little lace cutter will get you a good 25 feet of lace out of a square foot of deer hide. I forgot the name and model number, but once you see it you will be able to spot it in a catalog. I've used Brain Tanned deer to make mocassins and the laces are quit strong. But, braided they are only good for purse staps and such. Hope this helps, Jim Lace Cutter.pdf Lace Cutter.pdf

Well thank you dear Lady. I looked and found it in its original article form and will have to re-work it to add the text with photos. This will give me a chance to expand on the text being as the article had it cut short for space. I'll get right on it and email it to you. Thanks again for your help. Jim

Funny you should mention that. About three years ago LC&SJ called me to ask if I would submit a holster making artical. I most humbly agreed and worked feverishly to get it out by the deadline they gave me. . . . . . and it was never published. It was about making the California Slim Jim Holster and just for kicks, (if I can find it,) I'll post it here for all to enjoy! Jim

Ya know, I used to toy with these back when I was young and skinny. As you and I figured out they loose length when braided. So, the simple solution is to (get ready for the D'OH!) cut out one that's 12 inches long and braid it. Re-measure to find out how much it "shrunk" and use that as a formula to figure out how long to make the belt before it's braided. With all I know to be right and true in the world, that ought to work. Jim

The only thing wrong with that is you didn't make two of them so you could send me one . . . . JUST KIDDING! Nice work, well made!

Well, I'll you that anyone who makes a saddle with a suede seat ain't never worked cattle! Take that from someone who spent most of his youth doing just that. As you figured out (the hard way)dyeing suede is a bad idea. I'm not passing judgement mind you, we've all goofed up at some time or the other and paid for it. The bad news is that the suede is there to stay and all that will smooth it out is wear and tear, (unless somebody has discovered something new.)However, you might try an old style door knob, you know, them what's white and smooth. Try rubbing the suede with it while applying a little water with a spray bottle. I hope this helps. Jim

Ten Rounds for .44 - I'll get right on it. By the way, these were specifically designed for SASS. Jim

I have one in a pattern set that I made, but the file is too large to post. But, I can do a little re-work and include some simple instructions to go with it for the caliber slide you need. Do you want it for 10 rounds or 12? Holler at me, Jim

Howdy folks, I would like to y'all to take a look at this Holster Making Tutorial. This will take you step by step through making a template for any size or model Six Shooter all the way through to finished holster. The methods shown are those I have used to make lined and un-lined holsters for the last 10 years. Even if you have never made a holster, the instructions are easy to follow with text and photographs showing each and every step involved in the process. The difference between this method and others you may have seen or currently use is there is no Wet Molding involved to make a holster that fits right, tight, and out of sight. Feel free to download the tutorial and by all means, Enjoy! https://leatherworker.net/SimmonsHolster.pdf Jim R. Simmons Etowah River Productions

Tom, I just happen to have one as well as a CS Stamp. If your interested, holler at me on the email side. Jim brazosjack@att.net

Elliot, I have used Alum to tan deer hides since I was a kid with great results. I tanned my first Brain Tanned hide after reading John McPherson's book entitled Brain Tan Buckskin. You can brain tan a hide, then stretch it, and leave to dry to get brain tanned rawhide for quivers and such. The only difference between brain tanned leather and brain tanned rawhide is that the leather has gone through a "softening" process by hand. Click here to see some of McPherson's publications. www.grannysstore.com/.../John_McPherson_Prairie_Wolf.htm Hope this helps, Jim

Deer skin is the answer to your problem. (Follow me on this.) You can cut a round piece of veg tan just smaller than the diameter of the flask, say about 2 1/4". This will allow the carved veg tan leather to be sewn to the deer skin and then trimmed as needed for the fit over the flask. (Trim the deer skin, that is.) The other side will be deer skin also. It and the front piece will need to be cut to a size that will allow them to be stitched together as they wrap around enclosing the flask. Does any of that make sense, because if it doesn't, I can make you a sketch. Holler at me, Jim

I'll get on that this weekend, along with the way I accidently discovered the method. Jim

Dave, I developed a method for making lined holsters that does not require lots of tools nor lots of time to make. Truth be told, you how to make a fully lined and ready to use holster in about six hours. No wet molding required! The only drawback (if there is one) is that it requires hand stitching. I can also show you how to add retention without rubbing off the bluing . . . . much. If you you're interested, holler at me. The one shown here was made in about five hours and was ready to use right off the bench. Jim

Great job on that Leatherjunkie. The Brazos Jack Pattern was the first set I published and the later I created and published three more that show how to make them just like you did yours. They too, are all one piece patterns with options for three sizes for the large to smaller frame pistols as well as different barrel lengths. The photo in my post is one of them. But I always admire a Crafter that uses a little imagination to make changes to suit their own needs. After all, that's what this Trade is all about - progress! Keep it up! Jim

Hey Pard, shoot me you mailing address to my email - brazosjack@att.net and I'll send you a gun belt pattern that not only works but comes with a size chart to ensure a perfect fit. The set comes with bullet loop patterns for .45 thru .32 caliber, four different billet styles, and full detailed instructions. Jim

I followed you up to the point of "Once both sides of the leather covering are formed and trimmed...". Do you suggest stitching both sholders? It makes sense to but I'm just checking. Remember the flask is heavy glass and can handle any stress the leather could give it through shrinking (I imagine so). You're right, I should have made that more clear. After the sides are formed, simply leave about 3/16" extra for overlap for the seam when you trim them up. If using a 2 - 3 ounce pig skin leather, you can stitch the two pieces together inside out using a lock stitch or saddle stitch and then trim up to about 1/8" from the seam. This will help the sewn seam lay a little flatter once the cover is placed on the flask. By sewing them together first, you can then fit the cover on the flask to see if you need any adjustments. I won't kid you, this is going the be a task to get the fit just right, especially around the cases shoulders. But, the pig skin will stretch and flex enough during the wet fitting. The key is to stretch the leather around the flask and then tie it off on the opposite side until dry. You may have to do this two or three times while fitting the same piece so to get it fitted all the way around as desired. If you need me to, I can make some skethes of what I've described to help you understand what I mean. Will I need to glue it to help to stitch it? I was aslo curious as to percentage a piece of hide will shrink after being wet, that is if you don't nail it down (nice suggestion btw). Tanned leather doesn't tend to skrink as much as you might think. Especially Chrome Tanned (ie - pig skin.) So I wouldn't be worried about shrinkage. It wouldn't hurt to glue the two pieces in a couple of places just to begin the stitching. The trouble with custom fitted pieces like this is they are odd shaped and gluing all the way around may prove difficult to keep everything lined up while gluing. Did that make sense? Also not sure what stitch to use. I was thinking a figure 8 with two needles. Ah, the Baseball Stitch. That too could be a good way to join the two pieces as they go on the flask. The leather would be dry and you can use two glover's needles and a very light weight thread. Now that there are two options - all you have to do is figure out which would be the best way to go. If you nee anythig, don't hesitate to holler at me. Jim

Gus, As a Mountain Man and French Indian War re-enactor I highly recommend George White's "Craft Manual of North American Indian Footwear." (Availible at Crazy Crow Trading Post) This book became my Bible of authentic footwear of the fur trade era. It inspired me to make the ones shown below. Spend the money and buy the book . . . it ain't that much for the wealth of information! Jim P.S. Use full weight Moose for the soles - call Lietzau Taxidermy at 320-877-7297 (Cosmos, Minn.)