Jim

Hmmmmm, now there's a thought. The feller I've been trying to deal with about my new patterns ain't interested in the CAS stuff so I just might look into that.

If it ain't Herman Oak, it ain't leather!

If you go to the Holster Section there is a tutorial for the Cowboy Holster that will help on this Jim

After reading some of these posts I think I better clear the air a little. My book The Book of Leatherwork walks you through the process of designing patterns for various craft items such as camera or phone cases, knife sheaths, and holsters. It does not touch on the subject of leather carving or tooling patterns. I would hate to think someone bought it and looked through it thinking "Where's the floral pattern section!" Just so you know. Jim

I'm currently working on a deal with a fellow in Indiana. As soon as I have a grip on who in this world is carrying my stuff you folks will be the next to know.

Hannah, this why I wrote a book - for folks just like you. I'm out on the truck right now but as soon as I can I'm going to get with you and help you on your quest. Now, being an old timer I feel it's best to start designing patterns by hand before you go to computer do you can get a feel for distances, fold allowances, and other stuff that goes into pattern design. You will be amazed at what you can design with the simplest of tools. Jim R. Simmons Etowah River Productions

Who says you can't take a knife to a gun fight?

That is beautiful work! It's a good example of the Mills Pattern cartridge belt made for the cavalry in the late 1800s. There are a number of history buffs who should be interested in such a belt. Jim

This is a classic case of "the customer ain't always right, but they think they are because they think they know more than you do." (Okay, that was a little longer than I thought it should be.) But, you get the point. I have had to turn down custom jobs for folks because what they wanted was not gonna work and they were not going to be happy and I did not want to deal with the whinning about it afterwards. RUN!!

Well, seeing as how you asked . . . After getting out of the Navy I worked a couple of cattle ranches, rode some saddle bronc alone with some team roping, drove a truck in the oil field and over the road, been a mechanic, pipe fitter, steel fabricator, process piping designer, and even worked in a convienience store while healing up from a back injury. (Now there's a life changing occupation!) Presently, I'm back driving a truck in the oil field as a well treating specialist. (That's a fancy name for Chemical treater.) Oh, did I mention I used to have a small leather business? Nicknacks mostly. Jim

Alrighty then, I sent the patterns and instructions to Johanna and she will get it posted in the Gun Leather Section soon. Now, I've read just about every way in the world to measure a belt and they all work, just so you know. However whenever one starts measuring here, marking there, and making a pile of notes to keep up with what's what - something usually gets lost or misread. (A show of hands!) So, I figured out that if you can start with a belt blank cut to the specific length needed for that waist size then you're way ahead in the ball game. This pattern set does this with a size chart that is tried and true along with Billet placement templates that are used to mark the ends of the Ranger Style belt for the exact fit. The Plains Style belt has belt end templates to where you won't need countless belt templates cut to various lengths cluttering up the room. Belt end templates, Billet templates, belt loops, bullet loops all wrapped up in one little package on your work bench marked "belt making stuff." Coming soon,enjoy. Jim

Okay fellers, due to the size of the files I can't post the patterns and instruction . . . .YET! I sent a message to Johanna (our Guardian Angel) and asked if she can post and pin them in the Gun Leather Section. Huff! hate when this happens. Be with you soon. Jim R. Simmons Etowah River Productions

Hmmmm, no, mine is a little different and simplifies making gun belts. I got sick and tired of misplacing the billet and shooting myself in the foot with a belt that came out too short by an inch. (A show of hands - how many of us had done that?) So, I made a 60 inch belt tester and sized up fellers from big to small and made references to their pant size. After a few test belts and positive results I created the size chart and was able to make a well fitting belt for a customer based only on his pant size. This was a huge advantage to mail orders. The chart tells you how long to cut the main belt of the Ranger style and the templates show where to place the billets. When you see this setup, you're gonna love it. Jim

How about I make it easy for you, Pard. When I get home I will post a gun belt pattern that will take all the guess work out of it. It even comes with a size chart that actually works. Jim

Simple is good. It's what the Mountainmen used. Take it from an old Buckskinner, that's a fine looking Beaver Tail shooting bag! Jim

Ya know I hate to shot John B. in the foot, but have y'all considered widening the holster pattern at the barrel end? Depending on what the holster was being used for (ie. fast draw, mounted, or everyday shooting) I adjusted the lower end width to accommodate the shooters needs. No hammer handle required. Jim

Folks, I'd like to take this time to personally apologize to all the wonderful folks who have sent inquiries to me about patterns and such for the last year (or two) and haven't gotten a reply. It's not that I would ignore you for that would just be plain rude. The fact is, I forgot my password and couldn't get logged in. (Insert your joke here.) I have reapplied to the forum under Brazos Jack to keep up with the latest hubbub but I don't think y'all associated Jim with Brazos Jack and lots of requests got passed over. My fault, and I am truly sorry. So, that being said, I remembered it and now have it tattooed on my forehead. huff . . . it sure is good to be back with my favorite bunch of folks if the whole wide world. Jim

That's an interesting design. Are they for mounted shooting?

Looks good to me! As for being authentic enough . . . well let's take a look at that here for a minute. Mountain Men, Trappers, Hunters, and the like lived off the land and used what they had on hand to make the "possibles" they needed for their everyday use. There were no set patterns for these items but they did tend to copy from others they had seen along the way, hence the Eastern style, Western style, and so forth. Shooting Bags and Possible Bags were made to suit the individual needs and the types and styles are limited only by one's imagination. So, keep doing what you're doing! Jim

RESOLENE, RESOLENE, RESOLENE! Fiebing's Resolene is the answer. Having made a number of straped and belted items I can say with all honesty that when you apply the Resolene to the dyed flesh side and rub the living daylights out of it with a slicker to seal the leather it will stay on the leather and off the clothes. Jim

Well sir, I don't know a whole lot about "machines" when it comes to burnishing, being as my shop was always on the "low tech" side. But, I did find a small wooden burnishing wheel that I attached to a Dremel and with a small dab of bees wax had good results with slicking up the edges of belts and such. I have also used Resolene and a burnisher to do the same with even better results as this gets a more consistant result. However, haveing never used the Edge Paint, I hope someone who has will chime in on the matter. Hope this helps, Jim

Don't think that the lower grades are bad leather, when it comes to deer and elk hides anyway. They are just not as pretty and have more holes from poor skinning methods. I have use these often to make VERY rustic Mountain Man gear with good reults. Jim

You may want to see about the lower grades of deer hide. Most of the A and/or B+ to B grades will have finer edges whereas the dreades C's and D's or even the "scrap bin" parts will have the distressed look that you are looking for. Hope this helps, Jim

The only secret to Lefts and Rights in patterns is flipping the pattern over. Now, that sounds simple enough but with holster patterns (and the cross draw belt loops) you can cut out the pattern on the posterboard, fold it on the center line, and then place the cross draw belt loop pattern on the holster pattern as it would be if sewn on to see if it shapes up the way you want it to. Remember, however the pattern looks is how the holster will look. Enjoy! Jim

Back in the stone age when I started this, good patterns were rare indeed. I try to share any and everything to keep the art alive and kicking. Here is a photo of what's in store with these patterns. Enjoy, Jim