Jim

Not a bad plan. Looks like you have put a good bit of thought into it. The "Fold" is a common stump. The solution here is to figure the true dimensions of the sheath pattern by first, (and you've done this,) make a mock up. Second, use a strap of the leather you intend to use to measure out the distance from the tip of the "beard", over the top, and back down the other side. Then add what's needed for the rivets. Draw out the pattern using the attached drawing as a guide, and work out the welt placement and rivet holes. Fold the pattern on its center Line to draw out the other side so the match up. Use some scrap leather for the first run to make sure you have everything in place. You have a good start, just be sure to take all steps necessary to get your pattern right, tight, and out of sight. Holler anytime. Jim Axe Sheath.pdf

I would make a point to use bellies for the prototypes. It's cheap and doesn't hurt so much when it it doesn't work the first time. But, I would then know what to do to fix the issue with the new design. Until you have a Tried and True pattern, use cheap leather. It's happened to all of us. Jim

Welcome to the club. We have room for new members, although we do our very best to keep membership at an all time low. As is why we help in any way we can. Offer them up to whoever will take them as long as you tell them it has an "oops" factor. The terms are yours to set. That being said, I have one on the wall with a sign under it that reads "Don't EVER do this again!" Jim

Or is this what you're looking for.

Is this it?

Handcuffs and bikinis . . . be still, my beating heart. Ingenious design. Simple and practical. Jim

The ends of the loos should e tend no more than 5/8" from the edges of the holster pattern. And yes I got some photos and 39 minutes of video. Jim

A good distance from the edge for the stitch line is 3/16 inch. Also, that chisel is causing you some grief. The wider your tool, the wider the hole, the more pooch in the leather. Jim

I've had the same thing happen and is because the leather in this area of stitches has been pushed apart. But, you knew that. No real solution that I am aware of, but it's possible to go over the area with a skiver, verrrrry carefully to even it out. Don't slip! Jim

And is why I use the KISS method; Keep It Simple Slim Leather work has it's own rules of math that is not found in any books.

I'm thinking real hard about writing a tutorial on this. Might help some folks keep their hair on their head longer. Jim

Yeah, that measurement thing is what will bite you in the butt every time. It bit me enough.

Actually the strap is cut longer than the actual length (width) of the project would require. This way you can figure the needed length including the stitch or rivet line. When you start trying to figure distance and then adding or adjusting for stitching things will more often than not go horribly wrong.

To give you an idea of just how useful the Strap is, everything shown here was first measured out with a strap of the intended leather. Then the pattern making began.

The solution is actually right in front of you as it was with me. With the varied thickness of leathers used and the folds, the bends, the twists . . . no wonder I don't have any hair left! Oh, sorry . . didn't mean to get off track. The answer is to use a 1" wide strap of the intended leather to wrap around the foam to determine the length or width of the leather for the project. Once wrapped around, mark the spot on the strap that gives the needed over lap and then measure this mark from the end of the strap. I used this method for measuring everything from wrists for Cowboy Cuffs to coke cans for Cowboy Coozies. It works. Jim

Sewing on the strap prior to molding will cause problems because the bonded layers will want to remain flat. Now, there is a solution to your problem. It may not be easier and using a drill (yuk) can be used but will require you to build a curved jig. In the photo you can see that an awl is used with a double layered leather pad to punch thru while the bonded leathers retain the curved shape. Not easier, but it works really well. Jim

Well, it's a Buscadero . . . . I just called it the Texadero because I'm from Texas.

Wow, and he's even wearing the Texas Shield Buckle! Bruno, you nailed it once again. The fit is perfect and the holster are right where they are supposed to be. I take my hat off to you sir! Jim

The simple answer is to use a lock stitch (single needle and thread) as opposed to the saddle stitch. This will give you better control on how tight the stitches are, or in this case aren't. I've run into the same problem and this solved it. Jim

Hmmmm The Crows Nest comes to mind.

Well there ain't nothing wrong with that. The idea behind a holster like that is to make it safe and keep the pistol in the holster without having to put your hands on them every time you move. You nailed it! Jim

You're on the right track. The way to do this is to retrace the original Pecos Slim holster pattern and then draw the top of the holster about 3/4 of an inch down from the top. That's how this holster got its look. I just trimmed a little off the top of the original Callahan holster. Easy stuff. Jim

It's not that I don't want to sell the patterns commercially, I just don't know who is. That and I haven't gotten a commissions check in ummmm . . . . . what year is this? BUT, I do have a passel of patterns on the shelf that I do whatever I want to with. Kind of like the Callahan Lightning holster shown here. Ain't she a beauty? Jim

That is one fancy rig. Well done Sir! Jim

You might try marking out the stitch placements on your pattern template, then pre-marking the placements on the leather, and then pre-punching them with a single awl. Been doing it that way for thirty years and ain't had a problem yet. Just a thought. Jim