Jim

For all ya'll that read my reply, I would like to correct my goof. That would be 12 PENNY nails rather than 12 pound nails. See what happens when leather workers do carpenter work . . . . sheesh!

Splits are just that - the remains that was left after the leather was thinned to a specified weight. Suede is the name given to the splits after it has been brushed out, softened, and even dyed. All this was the end result of someone figuring out that the remnant splits could be processed and sold as a leather product rather that tossing it into the trash can.

Justme, You're right about the stretch properties of the tanned deer skin. The Chrome Tanned hides and even the Brain Tanned tend to have the same properties. Over the years I have made clothing, mocs, and bags of every size and shape from deer skin and found out quick that the stretch can either kill you or help you. That being said, it's possible to take most of the stretch out of the leather by wetting (and I mean soaking wet) a piece of the leather and re-strtching it. You will need 12 pound nails and a suitable sized piece of 1/2" plywood. After wetting the deer skin, nail one side of the leather to the wood spacing the nails at or about 3 inches apart. Stretch the hide as you go until the one side is secure. Then follow up by pulling the wet hide out as far as you can and continue nailing it to the board until the entire piece is nailed around the perimeter. You may have to adjust and re-nail as you go to ensure the hide is stretched as much as possible. When done, lift the edges of the wet hide up to the head of the nails all the way around to allow air flow between the hide and the board. Allow to dry over night. When you remove the leather, it may appear stiff, but if it's good deer skin (See :Eindes Furs, St. Maries Idaho,) it will loosen up by simply working it in your hands for a minute. The pouch shown below was made with leather using the same method described here. The stretch had to be removed to keep the integrity of the quill work in tact. You can double layer the band to keep its shape by glueing the two pieces together and the sewing it with stitches just snug enough to hold but not tight enough to cause the edge to pucker. I recommend hand stitching with the lock stitch when using deer skin and ALWAYS pre-punch the stitch holes. DON'T use a sewing awl! Glue: I recommend Tanners Bond contact cement. Low vapor, works fast, and holds forever. Hope this helps, Jim

I have to agree with Mike . . . and as much down-play as it gets, Resolene is the way to go. What do I mean by "down-play?" I hear a lot of "It doesn't go on right, or it bloches, or fish-eyes, or blah blah blah . . ." Fact is, I went through a lot of trial and unsatisfactory results before I settled on Resolene because of it's simplicity and rugged properties. It does have it qwerks . . . DON'T SHAKE before use! And apply it with a damp sponge but don't over apply or it will gum up. That being said (and sorry for the rant,) I tested it by by holding a holster under a cold shower for 30 seconds and then allowed it to set for a day. It had minor spotting that faded within a few days with no adverse effect on the finish. (I did this to simulate getting caught in the rain while out shooting.) Now, there ain't nobody I know that's going to stand there and get rained on for thirty seconds without running for cover, but I wanted a good soaking for science. Now, with all that being said . . . . a couple of years ago I went back to recover some stuff left in storage for seven years in Dalonega, Georgia. Amoung the varios items were a couple of military cartridge boxes I made and treated with the Resolene. My God . . . they were mildewed to #%&@ and back. I was heart broken. So, one day I decided to try to clean them up as good as could be done and started by whiping away the top crust with a warm wash rag. HOLY SMOKES! They came clean as a whistle with nothing more than warm water and a little effort! Now that being said, take a look for your self. I love this stuff!

Beginner HA! This guy's got it going on!

Ya know Damon, when someone sees that and asks "Where did you get the pattern?" there is no better feeling than when you say "I designed it, and I made it!" Great job, love the design! Keep it up Pard . . . Hide Crafters is always looking for new stuff! Jim

I'm gonna stick my neck out and say I'm almost but not quite sure that was block dyed.

That they won't notice? What . . . . are they going to be blind?

Let me give you some advice based on a lot of experience with hand sewing . . . put the stitching horse in a corner and hang your hat on it. Then using posterboard, draw a out template for the project your making with the stitch line marked at a suitable distance from the edges. Begin marking your stitch placements from one end (or corner) at 3/16" all the way around. Use this template to mark the stitch placements on the leather with a scratch awl, pre-punch all the holes, then join the two pieces together and rock and roll. This ensures that all the holes line up with each other so you don't have to punch and sew as you go. The method I just described was used to sew the holster shown here, so it works! Need any help, holler at me. I'll be glad to help. Jim

Well I reckon it's time to throw this puppy out there. This is one of my latest holster designs called the Pecos Slim. This ought to get George's blood pressure up, but I finally started designing Cut Tooling patterns to go with them. Alan and Donna Soellner of Newnan, Georgia did all the work, so I can't take any credit for this little beauty. For the record, I broke my left hand last year, so my leatherwork is a thing of the past. I welcome your thoughts. Jim

As a former construction worker, it looks like one I would want to carry. I got a hunch you're gonna be busy. Nice work! Jim

WELTS!!!!!! Put Welts in the Seam . . . . . ALWAYS!!!!!!! Make the sheath tight enough to hold the blade secure . . . . ALWAYS!!!!! If they need more help . . . . read my book!

Enough cannot be said about safety.

RC, My file is too big to upload, so email me at brazosjack@valornet.com. I got something for you. Jim

To answer all, yes Alum Tanning works for all hides. Now, it you want the hair left on, soak the hides for two days only. Then rinse and work the hide untill dry. I made a rabbit hide pouch this way that lasted me for about eight years - untill I lost it. Deer hides = two cans Rabbit and other small critters = 1 can

Great hand stitching requires three things - Patience, Want to, and the Right Tools! This one is an example of my early holster work from the 90s. I made my Awl from an old ice pick with a three sided point that make a perfect hole every time. The thing never needs sharpening and makes life easy.

Yup, it's a tension problem. Now, with that being said, I am no expert with a leather sewing machine (mostly because I've never used one.) But, having sewn a gun belt or two by hand, I quickly realized that by pulling the stitches tight the leather tended to twist and bow. So, I started pulling the stitches just tight enough to hold the seam and the problem solved its self. So, having used a regular sewing machine to make my own periodicly correct duds, I know that too tight a tension on the thread will pull a seam into a knot, figuratively speaking. So, I figure that you will need to play with the tension on your machine untill you get the desired results. Hope this helps.

Don't we all?

Hey Rawhde, You can't go wrong hangin' with George. He gave me a huge hand up getting my books published and on the market, not to mention my patterns sets. As a matter of fact, we spent three tours together at the SASS Convention in Las Vegas . . . . Man, what a ride! He is in deed a great wealth of knowledge and a fine fellow. I haven't been in touch with him after closing my shop a couple of years ago (shame on me!) If you see him before I do, tell him I said Howdy! . . . and then watch Ron's reaction. Jim Simmons

Hmm, didn't know they came in different types, I just always got the can that said ALUM. And I don't figure it needs to be neutralized, I never did. I just rinsed the living daylights out of it be for I stretched it for dyying.

Well Canemaker, I've tanned a deer hide or two and there is another way besides mushin' up them brains. All you need is a quick trip to the grcery store and buy two cans of Alum. Yep. it's a pickling angent. Now, you can stretch the wet hide in a rack, let dry, and then scrape the hair off while it's still "green" or soak it hair and all. Either works as well as the other. The only difference is that with the hair scraped off first, you only need to soak it in the Alum and water solution for about two days, stiring it a couple of times a day. Then remove the hide, rinse well, and proceed with the drying and stretching, or softening process. The again, if you leave the hair on you will need to soak it for about four days or untill the hair begins to slip off. At that point you can remove the hair with a wet rag. The Alum will loosen the roots and the hair just comes right off. I learned that by accident when I was tanning a Hair-on Hide and left it in the Alum Solution too long. Then, you can go ahead and do the drying and softening. Have fun

I gotta throw my 2 cents in here . . . . Okay, ya gotta punch your holes anyway, right? Save yourself some trouble and pre-punch ALL your holes along the seam line, and then using the Lock Stitch or Saddle Stitch, you can sew and go alot faster and easier. Been doing that way for forty years and it ain't failed me yet. by the way - get rid of that sewing awl . . . . them thang's will hurt ya!

Hey Frank, All the above is good advice. Now here's a bit you might try . . . When using the Strap Cutter, start the cut and the instead of pulling it with the handle, place your hand over the top of cutting rail and push in as you pull it down the length of the leather. This will keep the Cutter firm aginst the edge of the leather as it cuts and will keep it from cutting unevenly. Have fun, Jim

Brandon, thanks for posting this. This come right on time as I am getting out of the holster making to go back to Buckskinning. I downloaded the program and ain't never using graph paper again! These print up right nice, too! Just for grins, here is a couple of pieces I did about 12 years back. Thanks again. Jim

Ahh, you said the Magic Word . . . Oil Dye! Even with a light coat of Neats Foot, it stays put.