Jim

Okay, I'm gonna tell y'all a little story on me that's going to make everybody who's ever had a problem with swivel knives feel a lot better about themselves. Back in '69 I started this trade with a feed store scrap bundle and a Barlow pocketknife. Later in life, I moved up to saddle maker scraps and a Schrade Waldon knife. Then in 1991 I decided to get professional about this and went down to a Tandy Dealer (location un-named to prevent a lawsuit.)I walked in and told the lady that I needed a professional knife for cuting leather. She gladly went and got a swivel knife and said "This will do the trick." I stood there looking at for a moment and said "This is what the pros use?" to which she replied "Yep, this is the one." So I took it home and spent 15 minutes trying to cut a strap from a piece of 10 ounce leather for a project I was working on. Afterwards, I went to Home Depot and bought a utility knife to finish the project. Feel better?

Well Oz, this is one of those projects that teases the mind and strains the brain. That being said, if that fellow did it - SO CAN I! (Keep those words on your lips.) First off, I believe that's pig skin on the flask. Pig was used alot in them thar days (and still is) due to its toughness and flexibility. That works in your favor especialy being as it needs to be "encouraged" in to place on the flask. Now, enough history and back to the matter at hand. The new leather will need to have most of the "stretch" removed so that the leather won't relax around the flask once in place. This can be done by soaking the leather and then stretching it out on a piece of plywood by using 12 penny nails to hold it along the edges. Once dry, remove the leather and flex it in you hands untill any stiffness is removed. Now the fun part - fitting the leather to the flask. This can be done with the aid of a Template that's made to fit, BUT - making said template could eat up more time than it's worth. So, another option would be to fit the leather to the flask as you go. I've done this, so it's not as hard as it seems. The trick is to start large and trim as needed. This works better if the leather is wet so it will stretch as needed around those shoulders! Once both sides of the leather covering are formed and trimmed, you can then carefully stitch them up (by hand) making any adjustments needed as you go. Then, re-wet the leather and slip it onto the flask. It may take a couple of tries to get it just right, but that's the price we pay in restorations. Even being new to leather, you can do this. Remember - if I did, so can you! Below is an example of a powder flask covered in buckskin. I hope this helps and if you have any question, feel free to holler at me. Jim

Many was the SASS Shooter asked me the same question when they got their new rigs. My answer was simply - "Use 'em and use 'em a lot. It'll quit after a while. Besides, the targets are deaf and easy to sneak up on!" (Their new boots did the same thing!)

Back in my days with the Rendezvous I did an awful lot of work with furs of every kind; from hats to bags and even a pair of bear hide boots. So I'm going to do my best to help you on this. This will be a litle easier than it looks on the surface. I would like to do this via Email for faster response time. Keep in mind folks, I'm not trying to keep anyone out of the loop, it's just that things will go faster and easier by email. I will try to put the instructions on PDF and post it later on for all to view. So, holler at me at brazosjack@att.net and let's hammer out some details. Jim

Funny you should mention that - That photo is from a pattern set that just happens to include holster patterns for the old and new model Vaquero pistols. Holler at Ron with Hide Crafters. He just happens to know where to get one. Jim

My pleasure Pard, holler at me if you have any questions. Jim

Paul, I sent you an Email and I hope I'm not too far away. Jim

Brad, email me at brazosjack@att.net with your mailing info. I got something that's gonna be the ticket. The design allows for any and all body sizes. The pattern can be modified for automatic pistols. Jim

And here's part two of the tutorial. Enjoy. Of course when you read the tutorial you're gonna say "But where's the Plains Belt?" Here it is. Ranger_Belt_Instrutions_2.pdf Plains_Gun_Belt.pdf Ranger_Belt_Instrutions_2.pdf Plains_Gun_Belt.pdf

Thank you. I have a short tutorial for it, but it's too big to post all at once, so I'll do two Posts. Enjoy. Ranger_Belt_Instrutions_1.pdf Ranger_Belt_Instrutions_1.pdf

Or you can try a method that I developed that includes its own Size Chart and tried and true templates. I spent a lot of time and effort developing this so I could make proper fitting gun belts for customers that were out of state and had no old gun belt to go by. I can honestly say that everyone was happy with the fit. Take a look below for the Tutorial. Any questions, holler at me. Jim Ranger_Gun_Belt.pdf Ranger_Gun_Belt.pdf

Eidnes Furs St. Maries, Idaho 208-245-4753 I have been getting deer and elk hides from these folks for 20 years and can tell you that I have never been disapointed. They have different grades for various project types and colors. They have garment weight and heavy weight for clothing, mocs, bags, and whatever you can dream of. Here are some samples of you can do with a higher quality buckskin. Jim

Give that man a ceeeegar! And I apologize for not being specific about the designs. The one pattern, as Dan pointed out, is for carrying cash as well as cards and such. The other is just for cash carry only. You can copy the PDF onto a CD and take to Office Depot or any other print shop and they will print out the full size 11 x 17 sheet. (Be sure to tell them to set the Page Scaling to NONE!) From there, simply copy the patterns onto posterboard with carbon paper, cut out, and transfer to the leather with a scratch awl. Once the Qwiky Wallet is finished, it's self-explanitory on how it works. As many tutoirals as I've written and I forgot to mention that . . . . shame on me!

Ah! You're in luck then. The Cowboy Cooler doesn't use the foam insert and it's design helps keep it from getting knocked over after not letting several cans of adult beverage not have a chance to get warm. Did that that make any sense or do I need my medication refilled?

Indeed I did. The block dyed basket weave is a real eye catcher.

Dave, I looked and looked for a photo, but turned up nothing. I have one . . . somewhere that I used to carry my cash and cards in at the SASS Convention . . . . which means it's probably in my sporan which is somewhere in storage. I'll get back to you on that. Jim

Here's a liitle something for you. Have fun with it. Qwiky_Wallet.pdf Qwiky_Wallet.pdf

Okay, I have one more that there wasn't room for on the first post. This is a fun little project for you hide pounders that makes a great little pen and pencil holder for the desk. You can get the 16 ounce cups at Wal-Mart. Enjoy! Mug_Wrap_.pdf Mug_Wrap_.pdf

Last week a Crafter asked about a Coozy pattern for her husband and I posted a copy of a can coozy I called the Cowboy Cooler. Well, once I saw how many downloads ther were of the pattern, I decided to add to it and post it here. This is for everyone to download and use as you please. It's my my gift. The pattern sheets are on a 11 x 17 Tabloid and can be printed at any print shop. Just remind them to set the page scaling to NONE in the print set up. Have fun, Jim Cowboy_Can_Cooler.pdf Cowboy_Bottle_Cooler.pdf Cowboy_Can_Cooler.pdf Cowboy_Bottle_Cooler.pdf

Good point T.O. The thing to do is if you're spacing the stitches at 3/16" space the stitches on the case at 1/4". That is only the stitch placements that sew around the curve. This has served me well when installing sewn in toe plugs on my Cheyenne and California style holsters.

Got just the thing and easy to make. Use 8 ounce leather and lace everything together with a whip stitch. The sheet is on a 11 x 17 Tabloid and can be printed at any print shop. Just remind them to set the page scaling to NONE. Enjoy. Cowboy_Cooler.pdf Cowboy_Cooler.pdf

In a word . . . . Posterboard! I have pattern templates that are several years old that are as true now as they were then. Not to mention that you can get it in large sheets and even staple two pieces together to enlarge the template.

I think there is a type of machine that sews the angle stitch. I haven't seen one, but I have heard of it. I discussed this this with a fellow a few years ago who said I was "nuts" for doing this work by hand. I replied . . . "So, what's your point?" (See the cartridge box below.) With that, doing it by hand is a task, but it's not nearly as hard or time consuming as it seems. Once everything is laid out and pre-punched, it all goes together pretty fast. Oh yeah - Johanna, I'd be honored. Hmm, I just might write another book and elaborate the details further than the last two books.

Tat2, Okay, so it didn't take as long as I thought. I hope this helps you out. Holler if you have any questions, Jim Making_a_Leather_Box_1.pdf Making_a_Leather_Box_1.pdf

Tat2, Believe it or not this is not nearly as hard as it may seem. That is, if you get off the beaten path and take another approach to the problem. I've made dozens of this type of case and being self taught I use a method that is simular but different at the same time. (See: The Book of Leather Work.) The photos below are of a cartridge box made for a SASS Shooter and was made using the methods I will show . . . . later. I have to draw up a tutorial for you and put it in a PDF format so give me a day or two and I'll get it to you. This process can be done with just a little bit of practice and there is no glue involved if you want the best results. I'll be in touch, Jim