Jim

I finally got a weekend off to where I could get back to my favorite topic . . . . leather! I finally got to get these into pattern form and I hope ya'll enjoy! Just remember, when you take these to the print shop have then set the Page Scaling to NONE. Jim Cowboy Cuff Patterns.pdf

Gunter, I have patterns for an assortment of Civil War items from cartridge boxes to cap boxes as well as the 1881 Pattern Holster. Shoot me an E mail or maybe Johanna will let just post one or two on the Forum. Jim

The instruction pages are letter size so you can print them on your personal printer. Pommel Holster Instructions.pdf Enjoy, Jim

Okay folks, let's see if this rascal will upload. I ofered to draw up a pattern for a Pommel Holster and I used the 1881 Pattern for the set. Give this a look see and try it out. VERY IMPORTANT! Burn the PDF on a disc so your local print shop can print them for you. These pages are Tabloid size (11 1/2" x 17".) Tell them to set the PAGE SCALING to NONE. If they set it to "Fit to Page" the patterns will shrink! Have fun, Jim Pommel Holster Patterns.pdf The instructions on the next post.

Hey Jim, I would like to make the same thing with flapholster (civil war or indian war model -- only have the civilwar model holster), but was thinking to place 2 straps of 2 inches on either sides on the topside of the holsters and a strap with a buckle on the underside of the holsters. would this help? BTW, where can I buy your patterns? Cheers, Gunter Ya know Gunter, I was thinking along that line. I figure it would be so much easier to adjust to the user's need if the stap or straps were adjustable to put the holster where they need to be so they lay corectly over the pommel. After all, in the absence of a saddle to use as a guide, I can draw up a basic design that y'all can modify to a good usable pattern once the angles and lengths are figured out. After that, you can attach any style holster for any size or type of pistol. As for where to buy my patterns? I believe Silver Creek Leather is still carrying them . . I think. I haven't heard from Greg Sartor in some time. Call 812-945-8520 and see if they are still offering them. If not, holler at me and I'll do something. Jim

Hmm, let me see if I can help you out with a pattern. (Pattern, I got!) First off, what type of the pistols, (Colt Army, 75 Remmington, etc.) What is the barrel length? I can take an exsisting pattern and modify it to the pommel holster. Being as I don't have a saddle anymore (dang it!) I will make it to where you can modify it for the length needed from the saddle horn. PM me with the pistol specs. Jim

Well shucks, it's a long story I won't bore you with, but I will sat that betwwen bugs, thugs, and crooked bosses I had stuff to deal with. But, the good always wins at the end of the day. I'm back in the oil field training drivers, operating a winch truck, and hauling frac tanks. Currently I'm applying to the Safety Department with Nabors. If all goes well, I'll be the guy in the clean hard hat for a change. A couple of years ago I started some new holster patterns with some cut tooling patterns to go with them. They have been sitting on the shelf with no place to go, but being I have a new computer and am back on line, I think I know where to send them. I plan to post them on the Leatherworker site very soon for all to enjoy. As for the cut patterns, I would welcome any and all comments on the designs. My schedule has me putting in 12 to 15 hours a day at work with every other weeked off, so I apologize in advance for slow responses. I look forward to getting back in the game with my favorite bunch of folks. See ya'll soon. Jim

I have a 16' x 20' Marquee tent that I need to move for anyone who needs lots of room at the Trade Shows. The tent was made by R. K. Lodge and is of the highest quality. The tent has 6' 6" walls for easy entry without having to duck your head and comes with an awning. The set includes the poles, ropes, stakes, rings, and pole hooks. The tent was used for one season and has been stored on a pallet to allow air flow all around. The tent is in excellant condition. I'm asking $800.00 for everything. A great price for anyone who has been looking for one. However, due to shipping cost, it may be more practical to pick it up in person. So, if you're in Texas or passing through, holler at me and we'll give it a look. If you need a large tent, it will be worth the trip. Holler at me, Jim

Hi boys and girls! After a bout with having to eat lots of beans and drinking cheap coffee, things have turned around to allow me to be back in good company. So . . . . what did I miss? Jim R. Simmons

Well the first pair is always a leap of faith and with that being said take a good hard look at the sole patterns BEFORE you transfer to and cut the leather. Ask your self "Self, does that really look my foot?" Don't be afraid to modify the shape of the sole pattern to better fit you foot. I made my first pair from a Tandy pattern and quickly saw that the sole patterns were of the "generic" nature. So I widened the sole and outer to fit my wideasst foot with good results. I also widened the vamp as well. As long as all the holes are same number as with sole pattern, all will go well. I recommend transferring the patterns to poster board with carbon paper. This will give you chance to look things over as you go before cutting into the leather. By the way, Buffalo leather is another good way to go. Have fun

Reuben, I can tell you from experience that adding a heavy veg tanned inner sole to the lighter deer skin outer sole will creat some heartache when the outer sole wears through along the sides. So, if I may suggest using full weight Moose hide for the outer and inner sole. Moose is tough and the double combo gives a lot of cushion for the feet on them hard rocks what gets walked on. Holler at Lietzau Taxidermy in Cosmos, Minn. at 320-877-7297. Nice folks and a great bunch to work with. Jim

Hold the phone!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What method was used to tan the hides? If these were tanned by way of Chrome Tanning then you can get away with using Fiebings dye. BUT, if the were brain tanned you can actually smoke the hides to get the desired color. Just thought I'd throw that your way.

Can't say much about dyeing the buckskin except I have done it with Fiebing's and then sealed with Bag Coat. I suggest getting a pump type sprayer to apply the dye. But first you want to get rid of the folds. That's easy - soak the buckskin in water and wring it out. Then us 12 pennt nails to secure the edges to a sheet of 1/2 inch plywood and stretch it as you nail the edges down. Let it dry and work out any stiffnes. There won't be much, so it won't take much work. This also takes out a lot of the "stretch" so it will work better for garment making. The dress shown below was made in just such a manner. Have fun, Jim

Hey Ron, Try these out to see if they are what your wanting to do. Enjoy Here's a photo of the finished straps. Have fun, Jim Brazos Jack's Spur Straps.pdf Brazos Jack's Spur Straps.pdf

Had a request for a "Bra Holster." That's right - a Bra Holster . . . . My question: Is it for a pair of 38s? Her answer: No, just a 32. Had a request for a double shoulder rig that held the .44 Magnum pistols up-side down and secured with bicycle springs. My question: How much life insurance do currently have? His question: Will you make them? My second question: Are you out of your freaking mind?!!!!!

You might try a 10 ounce duck canvas. I have gotten this at Wal Mart or if you have fabric shops locally, you might try there. The probable advantage would be that it doesn't stretch (a lot, if at all) and you can mark it out with a pencil for easy corrections. Another thing is that you can trim to fit as needed with ease. If the tank isn't aluminum or stainless steel, you can use small magnets to hold the canvas in place as you go. Hope this helps.

Hi folks, After being asked "where to 'em" I sent Ron at Hide Crafters the layout for the elusive US and CS Stamps for military leather. He can get them made for you or if you have a source, here are the layouts on PDF. Enjoy, Jim US - CS Embossing Stamps .pdf US - CS Embossing Stamps .pdf

Cameron, I might have just the ticket. This Shotgun Scabbard was designed specifically for Cowboy Action Shooting due to rules about the shotgun being kept in the Open position when not in use. The strap over the top keeps the weapon in place whether the shotgun is opened or closed. It will require a Toe Plug which I can help you with. They're not as hard to make as they seem. If you're interested, holler at me on the email side. Jim brazosjack@att.net

Gunter, These were made to specs from the ones used in the 1800s. And yes I have a pattern and detailed instructions. Holler at me, Jim

I see your point about the "fast draw" design, especially from Bob's point of view. But then again Bob is a World Fast Draw competitor - not a snake charmer. (I know Bob so I get to poke fun at him.) As for safety, well THAT should be first and formost in ANY holster design. It's possible to have a fast draw holster that is not only safe but allows easy and fast extraction of the side arm. The idea is for the holster to be able to keep the pistol IN the holster while the wearer goes through a normal mode of movement without a retention strap. The holster shown here is of such a design. Note the Hammer Loop: this was added because most competion sports such as SASS require them on the holster. This design allows a time of .4 seconds to draw, shoot, and re-holster - Adios rattler! But at the same time the pistol remains holstered even in a sitting position. So consider what might happen if you were to drop your pistol - even with an empty chamber behind the hammer. It's just plain unprofessional. My two cents worth, Jim

I tell ya what 6guns, it sounds like you already have half of what it takes - "The Want To!" The other half lies in a good pattern template and an attention to detail. Both of which are not beyond your reach. A holster is nothing more than an odd shaped pouch designed around an odd shaped object. If you read the Holster Tutorial I posted you will have no trouble getting your first holster made right, tight, and out of sight. I learned this the HARD way with a lot of wasted time and leather. My hope is that no one else has to. Good luck and have fun!

Them look brass tacks to me! Hellova job DC, keep it up!

One thing I can tell you about some of the patterns out there is they were made up by folks looking to make a fast buck rather than a good fitting pair of mocs. I bought Tandy's Apache Boot patterns back in 91 and after looking them over I said to myself, "Self, there ain't nobody got a foot that long and skinny." So, after some modifications I came up with a decent pair of boots. They got better with more modifications. The patterns are generic and not made to fit the different shaped feet that are walking around out there. If you stick with the pattern as is, you usually wind up with more toe space than your foot will fill or an overly tight fit due to a wider foot. . . . with extra toe space. As for the length of the boot tops; they don't account for different leg lengths which causes the boot top to fall down around the ankle. Therefore, one must measure and modify the pattern to get the boot top to fit over the calf. So, it will take a little time but you can figure what changes are needed by what goes wrong as the moc goes together. Sometimes all you need to do is start sewing the vamp to the sole at one hole further up or further back to get the thing to line up properly when finished. This is due to the fact that not all feet are created equally. I learned this from making countless pairs of mocs and boots. My 2 cents

I have to see if I can come up with poem for that! Now, there would be a classic!

Folks, here's a little something I wrote a couple of years ago and wish to share. I hope you share it, too. Enjoy. T’were the night before Christmas And all through the house, I was setting up traps To git me a mouse. He done ate all the cheese And most of the beans, Then went and chewed A hole in my jeans. He’d sipped on my beer And nibbled some jerky, Then set his eyes On my big Christmas turkey. I hid and I waited By the ice box door, Till I seen him scampering Across the floor. With a hammer in hand I leapt out to meet him With every intent To pummel and beat him. With lightning speed He dodged to the right As I swung for his head With all of my might. As I missed my mark To the bedroom he went, Then I gave chase With a deadly intent. I yelled and I cussed While chasing the creep As my wife yelled out “I’m trying to sleep!” The ordeal had ended With my energy spent As out the back door He gleefully went. He turned and yelled As he ran from sight, “Merry Christmas to all And to all, a good night!”