TomG

Yeah, spammers are a real pain. I did the reply method that you advised on. Thanks

Price reduced to $150. Will ship for free to continental USA

I put a Python skin in the For Sale area and want to reduce the price. I can't see any way to edit my post. Can anyone show me the light? I thought messages used to have an EDIT button

This is a home made knife, slightly larger that the Tandy round knife. This blade actually cuts as well or better than my commercially made knives. Ther4 handle can be replaced by pretty easily. I just never had the need. Comes with the slide on cover shown. $40 plus shipping.

This knife is in good condition and is very sharp. It has no name on it, but looks like a clone of Tandy's Stohlman knife. $45 plus shipping.

I have 2 of these that have little to no use on them except for stopping. $50 ea. plus actual shipping costs.

I bought these many years ago and never got around to using them. The large one is Back Cut Python and is 8 feet long and approximately 9.5 inches wide at my hand span. The smaller Tandy skin is probably 2 feet or so. The product number is no longer listed in Tandy's ever-changing catalog. But a fellow user ID'd it as probably Whip Snake, or similar. $180 for both, (+shipping) Shipping will be at my actual cost. mod edit: See next post for New Pricing!

Can you roll the leather up as you go to get those middle holes?

I found that running the spindle cuts down on the punch getting stuck in the leather after the punch. On the Latigo, I also would lube the punch occasionally by running it down into a big, plain candle briefly.

Here is a small set of single hole punches that are made for the drill press. I used to have a customer that I made leashes for and each required 8 holes punched into 10/12 Latigo. They saved my life and sanity. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-hollow-punch-set-67030.html

Thanks

Any idea of the value? I have done a little checking on some website, but the pricing seems to be all over the place. I'm sure it's just me not knowing which to look at.

I bought these many years ago and don't even remember what kind of skins they are. The large one is 8 feet long and 9.5 inches wide at mt hand span. The smaller Tandy skin is probably 2 feet or so. The product number is no longer listed in Tandy's ever-changing catalog. In the near future, I am going to be selling off stock that I no longer need. Can anyone tell me what I have and the possible value?

I'm sure most were in the $200 range. I was thinking about $10-$15 depending on the width. All at Latigo and in the 10-12oz range. I mainly make 6' + leashes out of them, so when they get down to less than the lengths I need to make say, a 5 footer, they are not really usable for me.

Oh yeah. I buy my leather by the side and shipping is always in the $20-$25 range. That's just from KY to GA, LOL. My main plan is to put the stuff on Nextdoor first, so I can have them just do a porch pickup. tom

I am downsizing and need to figure out how to price of the the leather that I'll be selling. Some side, I've had for years. While still perfectly usable, in some cases I don't even recall exactly what they sides are <lol>. But, I'll figure that one out. My main need now, is to figure out how much to ask for various partial sides of Latigo. Most are in the 10 ounce range and the belly edge, of course. So any suggestions on how to do it and be fair?

I would never undercoat with anything but pure NFO. Resolene is an acrylic sealer, closely related to floor wax. You might want to try dip dying for even coats.

I use the one from Weaver. Pricey, but worth it. Be sure to order a few spare rubber 'faces' for the jaws. They will wear out over time. I used to make specialty leashes that had about 8 Chicago screws holding things together. I used a small drill with a Phillips bit to set them. I also used the blue Harbor Freight version of Loc-Tite. Worked great.

Yes. . See previous comments on the subject. But. Don't dilute it too much. As with all dye, you can always add, but can not subtract color in most cases. The only issue with the paste is if you use too much, it can flack out after it dries.

There should be a hole in the table behind the machine. The peg fits in there. You tilt the machine up and back and it rests on that post.

I don't use Tan-Kote, but I've used LB/AW for 15 years. I primarily make dog collars and leashes. I apply it liberally, front and back. I give it a couple of minutes to set and then pull the item over a round, wood rod, front and back, while keeping tension. This breaks the fibers from getting stiff with the dip dye process. Then, a good buffing and I'm done. I have used Resolene and still do periodically. I found that if you don't dilute it 50/50 with water, it can crack. Even diluted, I've seen it do that.

Well, I can tell you that it is NOT a bleed knot. I used to know the name of it, but old age has erased that knowledge. I've made a couple of items using it years ago, and I use a short version to secure the ends of my dog leashes. Try this. Take 2 straps of leather, around 5/6 or so as it's easier to play with, about 3/4" wide Maybe 1". remember that you're experimenting and can adjust things after you figure out the technique.. Cut 2, 1" slits in each one, about 1/2" apart. Lay 1 on top of the other, with the slits on top of each other. I THINK I put the rough sides together, but not 100% sure. From the back side, pull both straps through the first slit, pull tight. Take the same ends and pull them through slit 2 from the back. Repeat for the length of the strap. I slapped together a quick demo photo. Sloppy, but you can get the idea. This is 1oz leather. Couple of points. Thicker leather tends to look better and hold together better. Make the slits twice the width of the leather strap. I use 1-1/2 for 3/4" wide 10/12 straps. Also, the leather thickness can affect the slit length. You will need to experiment with the spacing between the slits Good luck

You can buy pre-dyed VegTan, And yes, you can wet it and stamp it. Just make sure that they have not pre-sealed it with anything. I dip dye almost all of my VT leathers. In general, I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dilute 50/50 with 90% alcohol. That works well, in general. Blues, Greens, Reds, etc, I usually have to so test dips whenever I buy a new bottle. I have had to dilute up to 80% for some colors like a Pink. The problem with that is that it gets too transparent and the leather shade comes through. I found a fix for that color by using Angelus Rise, cut 50/50. I don't use NFO, like Dwight mentioned, solely because I have never been able to apply it evenly enough to NOT make it blotchy <g>. You do NOT want me to ice your birthday cake, LOL. But, maybe if I had the time and patience to try it more and a few times, I'd develop a 'touch. But, yeah.. Try Dwight's method. I know a lot of the masters use it for their work with great success. Oh, Use PURE NFO, not the neatsfoot compound.

Sew them into a square pouch and use it as a light weight sandbag. Hold down tracings, prop up edges, etc.

I dip dye 95% of my VT leather and can tell you what works for me. I use Fiebings Pro dye and most of it I dilute 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol (90%). I use Rubbermaid plastic tubs that are about 10" x 4" or so (don't remember the exact size). I drag the straps through slowly, so that every inch is submerged for about 5 seconds. In general, I get good, even color, with adequate penetration of the dye. Now, I have actually seen these kinds of marks the few times that I tried rolling the straps up and soaking them in the dye for a minute or 2 and then unrolling them as I pull them from the tank. The dye can't get to the inner rolled portions. But even those were not dyed really deeply, even on the outer portions of the roll. You could try to zig-zag them n the tank and move them around a bit. Next, Oxacilic acid is not used to dilute anything. You wipe in on the strap to bleach it and let it dry, then dye. Finally, You might have a very fatty side of leather. I personally have never been able to dye through and through. I think tanners do something different to get it all the way through. Try the long plastic tank and just drag it through slowly. Usually the slower the pull the darker the color. Let us know how that works.