TomG

You can buy pre-dyed VegTan, And yes, you can wet it and stamp it. Just make sure that they have not pre-sealed it with anything. I dip dye almost all of my VT leathers. In general, I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dilute 50/50 with 90% alcohol. That works well, in general. Blues, Greens, Reds, etc, I usually have to so test dips whenever I buy a new bottle. I have had to dilute up to 80% for some colors like a Pink. The problem with that is that it gets too transparent and the leather shade comes through. I found a fix for that color by using Angelus Rise, cut 50/50. I don't use NFO, like Dwight mentioned, solely because I have never been able to apply it evenly enough to NOT make it blotchy <g>. You do NOT want me to ice your birthday cake, LOL. But, maybe if I had the time and patience to try it more and a few times, I'd develop a 'touch. But, yeah.. Try Dwight's method. I know a lot of the masters use it for their work with great success. Oh, Use PURE NFO, not the neatsfoot compound.

Sew them into a square pouch and use it as a light weight sandbag. Hold down tracings, prop up edges, etc.

I dip dye 95% of my VT leather and can tell you what works for me. I use Fiebings Pro dye and most of it I dilute 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol (90%). I use Rubbermaid plastic tubs that are about 10" x 4" or so (don't remember the exact size). I drag the straps through slowly, so that every inch is submerged for about 5 seconds. In general, I get good, even color, with adequate penetration of the dye. Now, I have actually seen these kinds of marks the few times that I tried rolling the straps up and soaking them in the dye for a minute or 2 and then unrolling them as I pull them from the tank. The dye can't get to the inner rolled portions. But even those were not dyed really deeply, even on the outer portions of the roll. You could try to zig-zag them n the tank and move them around a bit. Next, Oxacilic acid is not used to dilute anything. You wipe in on the strap to bleach it and let it dry, then dye. Finally, You might have a very fatty side of leather. I personally have never been able to dye through and through. I think tanners do something different to get it all the way through. Try the long plastic tank and just drag it through slowly. Usually the slower the pull the darker the color. Let us know how that works.

Well, I found the book, However, it's from 1893 or so, and uses chemicals common from that era to make the stuff in it. Not readily available these days. I also did a quick search and all found was to boil acorns to make a brown dye. I still think your best bet is maybe an art store and how about a paint store. They have dyes for wood that may be perfect for you. Good luck

I think your profile said Israel. Do you not have art supply stores? How about beauty supplies? Maybe liquid hair dye could be used. I did a search for Dyestuffs, which leather dyes are made from, but didn't find any unless you wanted to buy it by the ton. Somewhere, I have a digital copy of an old leather craft book. I'll see if I can find it. I seem to recall it had a section on making dyes from natural ingredients.

If you I have a fabric or sewing store, or a Walmart, etc., look for Ritz dye packs. You mix with water. Many grocery stores used to carry them as well. I've heard that they work well in many cases.

I mainly make straps of various sorts. I almost never use NFO as I never mastered putting it on thin enough to not get blotchy. I case, stamp and dry. Then Dye. I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dip dye 99% of my stuff. Once dry, I buff either by hand or, in the case of black or dark brown, with a buffing wheel in a bench mounted buffer. I then apply Leather Balm with Atom Wax to the back, liberally, and then to the front. I avoid waxing any lettering or places that I'll paint. I use a Q-Tip or small rag to apply it to the outline of the letters or design. After the front, I put the strap over a round bar in a "U" shape, and pull tight and pull it back and forth a few times, front and back. This breaks up the fibers a bit and in most cases, make the strap limp and limber. If there looks to be any gloss, I may hit the letter surfaces with a piece of sandpaper or scratch it lightly with an Exacto blade. I then apply the acrylic paint using little disposable 5ml, needle tip bottles (Amazon). I try to use Angelus paints now. I used to use the $2/bottle ones from Hobby Lobby/Michaels. I found that I usually had to mix a little Liquitex PouringMedium in (not too much) to make is flow properly. I do the smae on the Angelus. if needed. But, they produce virtually no brush marks. Another product I've used is Ready-To-Pour acrylic paint. Those need no additives. Have fun!

I have a large 'side' of shearling that I've had stored and now has a bit of a musty smell. Can wash this and if how, what is the best way.

I have a long-time customer whom I am no longer going to be able to service. Worsening arthritis in my hands is making it harder to make them, without too many 'oops' errors during sewing. (All I have in a cylinder arm machine.) She orders what are called Tag Leads for dogs. She places 1-3 orders per year, in quantities of 35 to 50, as a rule. If you are interested in taking it on, shoot me an email and I'll send you more details and her contact info. Tom

Thanks for moving it.

I'm thinking of selling my machine as I don't use it more than 2-3 times a year. Plus, I am phasing down what I make and purging stuff. Can someone give me a ballpark idea of the value of it? Admins - If this is in the wrong area, please move it. I wasn't sure where to put the question.

Have you called them? That would be the fastest method, possibly. I just called them and they answered. I've bought a lot of stuff from them over the years but have switched to different vendors for a number of reasons. High S&H costs was one of them. BUT... Please do remember that postal rates are higher than ever and things like liquids and hardware are heavy. I just sent out 2 Latigo dog leashes with brass snaps. 13oz. My Pirate Ship cost was over $6. It used to be around $3-$4 for the same general area.

Like Dwight said, you can dilute Black with thinner or 99% rubbing alcohol. But, you need to remember. Dyes are made from Dye Stuffs, which are mainly dyed powders. But, they never actually totally dissolve, in my experience. Black is by far the worst, which is why it is so prone to rub-off and transfer. I use dip dying for 99% of my stuff, and even though the tank that I use gets stirred real well each time. you still see tiny particle on the surface as it comes out of the tank. I ramble about this, because in my experience, with any dye the more you dilute it the fewer dye stuffs you have and therefore, the less color penetration into the leather. I, and many others, always dilute dyes 50/50 with alcohol to get the actual color it says on the bottle. Except for a 'true blue'. I always struggle to get a nice, rich blue color without it looking too translucent.

Well, fact is, wet leather stretches, so any bending while it is really wet will likely deform. With the understanding that I have never actually tried this, but have stamped leather for about 15 years or so and I can suggest a couple of things to try. I am not sure if you are trying to form it around the rope as you stitch or not, but I'd suggest you not do so. I would do my stamping and then let the leather dry thoroughly. Then use a dowel rod just a tad large in diameter than the rope and use that as a form. LIGHTLY mist the back side and let it sit for a minute or 3. Then do your forming and sewing. Let it all dry before you thread the rope through the handle and then curve it. Again, if you have a problem curving it, you may have to to the light misting on it again. Remember, this is just ideas based on straps that I've have to curve from time to time, so it may not work. But, it can't hurt to tray. And maybe someone who has actually done this before will chime in and help you out.

I've had one for years and love it. I do a lot of straps and 2 quick pulls does the job. The 4-cutter version is much more expensive and for my need was not worth the extra money. I've also read that the 4-cutter version can be tricky to adjust for even cuts, but don't have hands-on to confirm.

Thanks. I am not looking forward to the cataloging and selling. I do have a few people who I will be donating some to. My mentor was generous with me years ago when I started and I am going to honor that by helping a newbie. Wow. Not sure which stamps would carry that price tag, but I'd love to find a dozen or so of them in my collection, LOL.

Thanks. that's kind of the ballpark I was thinking, but was just not sure. NOW, for the task of cataloging them all and do the listings. I'm going to put them here on the Leatherwork section first. eBay will be the absolute LAST place I'll list them. By the time you pay the fees, you get a buck a tool, it seems.

I am starting to downsize, and I'm beginning with some of the extra hand stamps that I have accumulated. I'm not sure how to price them fairly. They are 99% Tandy, but span years. How do I tell which are the older, better tools from the newer, not as sturdy ones? And what pricing for the different ones? Thanks

If you haven't found this yet, it's worth a read.

Good Morning Dwight. Been a while. I am by no means a pro on this, but I can relate my experiences and what I was told back when I tried using this method. I did the same. Soaked steel wool in white vinegar for about a month. Then, drained it into a clean jar and started playing with it. I did get some nice blacks, but also got the greys that you mentioned. I was told that it depends on how much tannin is in that particular piece of leather. I stopped using it for 2 reasons. One was this inconsistency in color and depth that I never figured out how to cure. The other was the smell. Now, I was told to use a mild baking soda rinse to neutralize the Vinegaroon, but the smell never left. At least not in the time I had to let it sit. (Someone had said that the smell goes away with time). I really wished that I could have figured it out. I make a lot of collars and leashes in black and the dyestuff residue on the leather after I dip dye is substantial. I have a power buffer from Harbor Freight with double wheels on each end. I buff the hell out of the straps, but usually still have a little bleed when I buff the out by hand after the Leather Balm/Atom Wax treatments.

Check out Beilers. 717-768-0174. They don't have a website, but have an extensive paper catalog that they will send you. I just ordered some solid brass in medium and long lengths and they were about $3 - $4 and some change, per hundred. You write up the order in Word or PDF and fax it to them. A bit more effort, but great customer service and some of the best prices I've found.

Thanks to all. Yeah, I figured I'd wind up using layers. I was trying to avoid that because the collar has stamping on it, and the design is going to make it hard/impossible to sew the edges. So, they will likely be glued only. I'm going to do some experimenting later today. I may have to widen the collar and put a grove and stitches outside of the scrolls.

It's been a minute since I had to decorate with the post style crystal rivets, but I have a customer who wants them on a collar for her dog. It's going to be 8-9 oz and the crystals I've seen have short posts. I need some ideas of how to do this. First, does anyone know of a source for rivets with longer posts? 1 solution I think of is to use a thinner leather with a backing to add thickness, but I haven't done any backed items using anything thicker than goat/lamb or 1/2oz VT. Since this will be a fairly short collar (15" neck size) I would think using anything thicker would stiffen it up too much. The other idea I had is to somehow punch each rivet hole and then, somehow countersink the back of the hole to let the cap seat the rivet properly. My question is how to do that so I still have enough leather to seat the cap and not pull through to the front. So, any and all suggestions are appreciated.

I really don't know. I have only used Eco-Flo once, that I can recall, and it was not on an item that I needed anything blocked out. But, considering that it is basically a rubber coating, I would assume that it would. Now, I only used it on stamped lettering and can tell you that you do need to get it down into the depressions around the letters. Otherwise, the dye can seep in at the edges and stain the letters. It IS tedious on longer lettering strings.

No, The liquid latex that I mentioned will block all of the dyes. You may need a coat or two, but it will work. One caveat is that if you are using it on things like stamps letter, such as in my photo, you need to make sure that it gets down into the grooves around the stamping. I haven't used these brands and my local store no longer carries the one I used, but either these or similar ones should work. Just do some research and experiments would tell you. https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/HX-LIQUID FRISKET.pdf https://www.michaels.com/product/lq-acry-maskng-fluid-118mlus-10648713?cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Art+Supplies_N_PMAX_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-18514199888_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-10648713&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZwjrxgSAiYqkkbRnIc14WS2qm2aH5Uq3lDSGbgKO9aNLxDJD4Q0xroaAvjSEALw_wcB