TomG

Does anyone know the proper way to adjust the 2 knobs on the front of this item? They don't seem to do anything except adjust the gap and avoid the roller from twisting on the horizontal access. How to I find out the proper relationship of the blade edge to the roller? I've had it for a good while and it cuts OK, but not as well as I want. I need to fine tune it, so to speak. Thanks

I think I found it. I believe that she had it made here: https://www.atlatt.com/ Call and tell them what you are needing and they should be able to advise you.

It does seem like it. But I was just passing alternate info. I believe her attachment was basically the same, but did indeed have a feeder for the wire to be inserted. I think she said that she had it made by some custom binder maker in maybe Atlanta?

I do the acrylic paint frequently. As with most new-to-you processes, just mix up a small batch and try it. You can also call Fiebings and ask to speak to a chemist who can answer it professionally.

Thanks HS. Not a Scissor hook snap, but you pointed me in the right direction. They are actually Sprenger Hunting Quick Release Snaps. Now, to find a distributor here in the states, LOL. Sprenger now has a US distribution office so maybe they will answer my contact form request. Thanks again.

Can anyone identify this snap. It's a quick release, safety snap and I'd like to incorporate it into my collars, but can't find a name or source.

Sorry Dave, I totally forgot to look. However, I DID look this morning and all I found was a couple of photos of a leather edge binder attachment. It is similar to one I have, but seldom use. You may be able to adjust the amount of 'tunnel' that it leaves and then pass a wire through itm then had sew the rear opeing closed. Be sure to overlap the end though. As for the wire feed binder, it seems that she had them in a Picassa folder, but apparently, her brother or other family member deleted her account there. A real shame as she was the most sharing lady I ever had the pleasure to meet. MY wife and I would go visit her and enjoyed just shooting the breeze with her. But she had tons of patterns, photos and other stuff on Picassa that is now forever lost. Anyway, I'll post the pics of what I do have here. Tom

MikeRock, I suspect that those are either custom made stamps or likely engraved plates. I had an engraving machine a while back and it resembles one of the font sets that I got with it.

A good.friend of mine did lots of hats and she had a device to attach to her sewing machine to do just that. I believe she said that she had it made at a custom sewing machine attachment company. It's a wire binder foot. Unfortunately she passed away a few months ago, so I can ask her. We did discuss it a number of years ago and there is a very remote possibility that I archived the info. I'll look when I get home

That was my first thought but not sure if I need to do some prep the the materials or not. I've never used it on rubbery stuff.

Not a leather question, but a shoe question. My grandson has a like new pair of canvas shoes that are coming loose at the sole edges. The edgers are a rubberish material and the soles look almost like gum rubber. What would be the best glue to reattach the two?? Thanks.

I'd use a dip dye technique. So some test strips and dilute the dye with Denatured alcohol to get the color that you want. I dilute all of my dyes at least 50/50 as a rule. I think Tandy has or had an all in one dye/sealer called EcoFlo or something. Never used them but if they are still.available, it might be worth a try. I personally use Leather Balm with Atom Wax as a top coat conditioner and sealer. Tom

Try the buffing and top coating to see if the purple goes away. As for the marbling, have you bought this particular cut before? I have a side of VT that I just bought and it has the same fatty texture near the belly. I can see it before dying. But, my customers seem to like the effect, so it's not an issue on my end.

The texture appears to be marbling from the fat in the leather. As for the purple hue, buff it out, and hit it with some leather balm or resolene on a test piece or the buckle end that will be on the underside of the belt. I have seen this before with black. Make sure that you have shaken the dye well before applying. I have noticed that the dyestuffs tend to settle out with black more than other colors.

I've been using the popular strap cutter for many years and have meant to ask this question, but never remember when I am on the boards <g> Whenever I buy a new side, I use a straight edge and clamps to cut a perfectly straight edge. As I cut my straps, that edge begins to curve inwards. I have racked my brain trying to figure out why and how to stop it. Any clues or suggestions?

Wow! Great work. I wish I had that skill set

I have a screen printing conveyor dryer and I spilled some dye on it. It doesn't hurt it, but I'd like to get it off of the metal if possible. I tried Denatured Alcohol with no luck. Does anyone have a way that won't remove the paint from the dryer?

Nice Work!!

Hey Dustin. I meant to ask you how you did the playing card design. Is it painted on, some form of heat transfer, or whay?

What Mike said. Weldwood is every bit as good at Barge, from my experience, and half the cost. Apply to both edges, let set until tacky and then assemble. But, it is not easily repositionable, so make sure all edges line up and then tap the edges lightly with a mallet, or put pressure on them for a while, for best adhesion.

I believe that this user is saying that a small dab of glue under the tongue keeps it from moving. I agree. That would be the easiest and cleanest way to secure the hand size. You could also use a small strip of Velcro the make it adjustable without showing.

First, why would you use Pro resist as a top coat? It's meant as a dye blocker. My go to for years has been Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Rub it in with a cotton tee scrap, front and back. Then flex the leather over something from the front an then the back. I make lots of strap goods and use the rounded edge of my desk or a piece of 1" PVC I have mounted as a rack. It will normally be as limber as spaghetti. The wrinkles on the back look like fatty deposits. Usually found when using leather near the belly. The cracks on top are dry leather. I'd suggest using the Olive Oil for cooking and switch to NFO. It's made primarily for leather. One neat trick that you can experiment with is add the dye to the oil and adjust for color. It is a technique posted on Fiebings website and worth a try. That way, you are adding the oil back into the leather at the same time as dying.

Where do I start?? 1) Did you let the molded leather dry thoroughly before dying? 2) The Molded leather looks like it has a lot of scratches on it, maybe from tools or fingernails. Wet leather is very suseptible to anything touching it. 3) Saddle Lac dries pretty fast. How did you apply it? Spray or brush? Both require good technique. I've never had luck with brushing. All of my toppings go on with a folded scrap of tee shirt, in a circular motion. 4) You MUST apply wet stuff in an area with minimal dust and such floating in the air. You may have put too much on at once and made it dry slower. This would add to the dust collection. Multiple light coats is better. 5) On the straps, that folding issue looks like fatty leather. Nature of the beast. it's less pronounced with non-fatty pieces. If you are trying to make a fold such as around a ring, look or Dee ring, try wetting it at the fold and letting it soak in for a few minutes before folding. It will soften the fat and avoid any cracking. 6) I never used the Ecoflo stuff. But, it looks like it was applied too heavily. I have been using Leather Balm with Atom Wax almost exclusively for years. Again, put it on with a scrap of Tee on both sides. Rub it it. Wait 4-5 minutes and buff to a shine. Leather becomes soft and limber. Never had a problem. 7) For a high shine, I use acrylic floor wax (same as Resolene), diluted 50/50 with water. Apply in THIN coats with 3-4 hours between coats, it I need more than 1. Buff when dry. 7) On the edges, get some liquid glycerin soap. Apply to the edges and them rub it in hard with a piece of canvas or other heavy cloth. 8) As for times, I dip dye most of my stuff, so I let it dry at least 8 hours or until the alcohol smell is gone. If I use a sponge or dauber, at least an hour or 2. Again, until the smell is gone.The Leather Balm, only about 5 minutes. Or, about an hour if I'm going to use the wax top coat. Take your time, use thin coats of stuff and try to work in a dust free area, as much as you can, for applying your top coats. Good Luck

That was not it exactly, but it did point me in a direction that I was looking for. The exact post showed construction details. But, some of those photos looked familiar. Thanks!

Thanks. I'll check that out. I also need to go back and do some more searching. I still recall seeing someone who made a nice one for their machine and showed detailed photos of how they mointed it.