TomG

I did notice that it appears that the needle rod won't just drop out of the bottom of the machine. Bob said something about removing a plate or something. I haven't looked at it in depth yet though. Any tips you'd care to share?

Exactly. I ordered it today and hopefully Bob was able to get it in today's mail for me.

I suppose I could, but I would either have to drill all the way through the original hole, or buy a bottoming tap in the small size I'd need. I'd still have to pull the bar to do this. It's just easier to replace with new and not have an oddball machine . But, I appreciate the idea.

Thanks, but it broke off too far into the hole. I did drill it out, but slipped and damaged the threads. So, Iml replacing the bar.

I just picked up 2. I got home and tried to remove the old screw and wound up buggering the hole. So, I am going to have to replace the needle bar. If the bar I buy comes with one already, I'll be glad to mail you the 2 extras. I'll let you know.

As an FYI, the Consew part number is B140553. I'm waiting to hear if my local dealer has any in stock. Fingers crossed.

Consew 227-R2

Not sure if I can pull the needle out as it is secure, but I'll try it when I get to the shop tomorrow. Do you know what size screw it takes?

Thanks. I'll check into that. Never heard of a left hand drill bit

I was tightening the screw that holds the needle in the bar and the head broke off. Inswear I wasn't cranking down on it. But the screw is now recessed in the hole. I am afraid that the screw is too small for standard extractors. Suggestions?

Is it mainly widening the gap? What does the hook need?

I think I've seen the answer to this somewhere her. but I've spent an hour looking with not success. I have a 111W155 and it sews fine with 138 thread. I would like to sew with 207 just for cosmetic reasons. Isn't there a way to modify the thread path so I can use 207 top and bottom? Tom

When you skive and glue together, do you sew the join as well? I've done this to make longer dog leashes and always have to sew a couple of lines at the edges Not sure if I'd have to for belts though

2 things to try, if you haven't already. 1) Burn the ends of the nylon strap after you cut them. 2) Use a fairly long stitch.. 6-8 SPI or so. Make a couple of rows or better a square box with a "X" from corner to corner on. Tom

Some photos of what you are doing exactly would help Tom

I haven't tried this but have been meaning to for several years now From Fiebings site https://www.fiebing.com/tips/mixing-fiebings-leather-dye-and-prime-neatsfoot-oil-compound/ Mixing Fiebing’s Leather Dye and Prime Neatsfoot Oil Compound For generations saddle makers and other manufacturers of leather goods have used a combination of oil and dye to both control color as well as to maintain the suppleness of the leather. To achieve this highly desired result the trick is to mix 6% of Fiebing’s Leather Dye with 94% Fiebing’s Prime Neatsfoot Oil Compound. This works especially well with all of the brown tones and the primary colors like green and blue. Apply as usual to unfinished, vegetable tanned leather and allow to dry. You can try to buff the surface when dry to remove any excess dye but due to the low concentration of dye in this mixture you should not have much of a rub off issue. Once dry, feel free to seal with Fiebing’s Acrylic Resolene. Our R&D testing has proven that Fiebing’s Leather Dye combines more effectively with Fiebing’s Prime Neatsfoot Oil Compound then does Fiebing’s Professional Oil Dye. We suggest you use the standard Fiebing’s Leather Dye when attempting this dye/oil combination.

If it's a Type L size bobbin (I believe that's the size -- Consew 227R etc.) you can buy prewound bobbins in white and black thread that have built in magnets on the hole. These require that you remove that spring. Super popular on embroidery machines. But I always had tension issues with steel bobbins that I wind if I forgot to put it in. Here's a picture. Look at the middle one. The flex goes up.

They are eliminating the Gold and Elite memberships, I was told and lowering prices to elite or less across the board. Businesses will still get that extra discount. I believe that it goes into effect tonight.

I've done it using a heat press with good quality stones designed for that method. Hibby Lobby or Michael's my have some, bit never bought from them. You can dye, but dont apply balms, waxes or creams before pressing

My problem with the round/head knife is it digs into the cutting surface. I'm usually cutting on a long pine board. What do you guys cut on?

Hi Wiz.. Long time.. I assume that these are different than the standard Consew/Singer 24/180's?

Where did you find the post?

I almost always dilute my dyes 50/50, unless someone wants a very, very dark shade of the color. I use denatured alcohol for the diluting though. Then I dip dye almost everything. Let dry before a second dip if needed

Fiebings has discontinued all flavors of this product except Neutral. I spoke to one of their chemists via email some time ago and he said that I could use the Eco-Flo water based dyes from Tandy (2600- series) to create a colored Balm. I've tried it with brown and black. The black was OK but the brown requires some experimenting. I used a few small disposable cups and syringes to do a couple of colors. I wanted to be able to pour "X" ounces of neutral into a bottle and "X" amount of dye and be consistent. Except the black, I found it was too much of a PITA to do, as the difference between the Neutral and the colors was not enough to warrant the effort. For Black, pour enough black into the balm so it stops being grey. I don't remember the proportions as I found a quart of the Fiebings Black and am still using it... If you do get the Zack White version, please let us know how you like it. That's the Neutral.

What LJK said - Plus -- If that bottom right birdsnest is where you started, you might not be holding tension on the top and bottom threads as you start. Get your piece ready to sew and before you step on the treadle, pull both threads out towards the back and hold them snug as you sew the first 3 or 4 stitches. See if that helps. As for the top right corner.. when you make a right turn, stop at the stitch before it and use the hand wheel to make the last stitch on that edge. As the needle comes up from it, stop with the needle still in the leather, on the upstroke. lift the presser foot slightly and turn the leather to tht new position. That will stop the angled thread that I see up there. FYI, the bucking is probably from trying to force the needle through the tangled mess. What size thread is it and what size needle? Finally, what's the total thickness of the leather?