TomG

I've used the acrylics from Hobby Lobby and Michael's with very good results. My wife used the $1 a bottle stuff on a key fob 3nyears ago and it has not faded or chipped despite being knocked around in my pocket for over 3 years.

Take it back to them and make them replace it. I had to do that with a piece of Latigo a while back. It had a strip of rawhide about 2 wide that ran from belly to backbone. I literally had to saw through it. I had no problem exchanging it.

If you are trying to engrave a design that you can paint, you'd want to cover the leather with blue painters tape and engrave through that. Then, lightly wipe it to get any soot off and paint over the tape. You are essentially using it as a mask. Let it dry thoroughly and peel off.

I've made stuff that is laser engraved. Electron and Jersey are both right. The laser burns the leather. The laser should have what is called an Air Assist that directs a stream of air at the surface where the beam is hitting. The laser also has a good fume/smoke exhaust system that is sucking the stuff out the rear of the engraver. As long as the user is not using too much power and generating excessive smoke and soot, all is well. I use Leather Balm with Atom wax as a sealer.

Thanks to all. Weaver is it. And I have samples on the way. Ya gotta love this site!!!

Thanks. I'm checking to see if those have the hole or the loop. But they are the right size and LOOK like the right weight. I have spent literally 6 hours searching for solid brass that are not outrageously expensive. No luck! Fingers crossed

I need a good source of 30 - 35mm sleigh bells. Looking for brass or brass plated, medium weight.. I need the type that have the hole for mounting and not the raised strap. I've done my searching here and everything I've found is outdated. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Can you tell us the setting you used? I have a 40W as well and wanted to do the same. %power, speed, etc. Thanks

Looking for one. I'm in the Atlanta area. Thanks Tom

Contact cement the edges together and sew inside of the cement line. Check out Arthur Porter on YouTube

I'm interested in getting these. I'll even pay for shipping <g> Tom

But... It's more FUN to bitch

Hey Grumpy, Toss some Resolene in your morning coffee and all will be well in the world. I haven't seen the catalog yet, but I'll take a look in a sec. You have my curiousity peaked. MY only gripe, and it's petty, is the user who asks questions and obviously has not bothered to do even a rudimentary search to see that it has been asked and answered 100 times. But, life's too short to let stuff like that really bother me

Thanks Max. I'll check into that

I seem to recall they said to wet them with saddle soap and do what you said. I'm trying to figure out how long a strap I can get out of a side and minimize my waste.

5/8" to 3/4"

Some time back, I found a method of cutting long, continuous straps from Latigo. It involved rounding the corners on a side and cutting non-stop around the perimeter. But I don't remember the details such as how to straighten the curves, limits to the curved portions, etc. Anyone have the info? I've searched here for over an hour with no luck.

That's what I'm thinkin But I'm trying to figure out why it got out. This machine is only about T months old and has only infrequent use so far... about 125 of these straps and some.lighter weight stuff. Guess i'll have to do some searching for the procedure to adjust it.

I need some advise on a problem I've developed. I was sewing the edges of some hand hold straps and things sort of went to hell all of a sudden. These are 6oz, folded in half to form a loop and then the opposite end folded back through a snap swivel, and sewn down. That's 3 layers. Those ends are skived down to about 4oz.. may a bit less. The stitch length suddenly started getting short at the thick end. Then, the needle began hitting something under the strap. I found the tip was getting dinged. If I took the strap out and ran the machine without thread, no hitting. Looking at the hook and needle, it looks like in have almost no clearance between the hook and needle. It I put the strap in place and move the needle down with the handwheel, the hook catches in the eye of the needle. I've tried new needles. Usually 138 thread, size 22 needles. Any ideas how I can fix this? Thanks

Try this video. I know Chuck and he is a true master craftsman. Pay attention to how he holds the cut strap as he pulls the cutter. And a sharp blade is a MUST.

Proper casing is essential. Too wet and the stamps mush. Too dry and the impression doesn't set into the core properly. See Bob Parks tutorial on it.

Harbor Freight has a split leather welders apron for $10 http://www.harborfreight.com/split-leather-welding-apron-45193.html

If you're using bottles, make sure the little bleeder hole in the lid is open, if you have one.

Haha.. I got the ego too , but I've just learned over time what's worth the extra effort. I think that you are going to find that the "buckle it up and let it hang" method is going to be about the best "practical" method with the best accuracy. I like Dwights idea, but not sure I'd have the patience to make all of that balance out. Especially 5 or 10 times a day.

Well, although I also like to be as accurate as possible, it honestly does not really matter. I do hundreds of collars. I use the exact method as shown in the image above and It comes out close enough. I have never, ever had a customer say "great collar, but the name is 1/2" off center". Different buckles, different sizes, customer mismeasurements that cause different hole used (as pointed out by Big Sioux), and other factors beyond your control make, it almost impossible to be super accurate every time. But, if you insist on making it "dead nuts on", using Big Sioux's preassembly method is about the only practical method. It takes all factors in to account automatically... assuming the same hole is used. Good luck