TomG

BigMatt... Did you ever get the Sailrite binder to work on the 227R? Sure would liek to see some pic or even better a video of it working

Haha. Must be Abbey of England... Naw.. Not for 10 pounds .... I think I'm paying around $3 each for nickel plated. I have 1 source for brass plated here in the states, but they only have 3/4" now, and the first - and last - time I ordered, it took 3 months to get them. He was out of stock and waited until he had a really big order of stuff to get more... He orders from China.. Probably Alibaba...

Didn't know that. But the Singers, Consews and clones have tons of feet as well. How does the Harness machine handle the studs? His edge looks so thin, I don't see how a foot would be able to get good traction without marking the leather, and I'd think it would have a tendancy to fall off the edge unless you were very, very careful.. and lucky <g>

I am not a pro by any means but it looks like there is not enough edge for a pressor foot to run on. Maybe Wiz or Kevin will chime in. But I have to know.. Where did you get the brass martingale chain? Tom

I agree with Electron. The white dye is not going to work. And it stinks pretty bad. I use the high end heavy pigmented paint for white. I dilute a bit with water and put on the first coat. Let dry totally and then use light coats of the full strength pain - assuming it's not too thick. Sort of like pudding maybe. maybe a bit thicker. you need to to flow a little as it drys to erase any brush marks.

Mike, you are not being harsh at all. Just honesty, which is what I wanted. That's why I posted the question to begin with <g>... I can see where a wallet might be too small to bind nicely. I did the hand binding on a wallet (my first) because it has hair-on cowhide for the back piece. Not conducive to burnishing. I did try to wrap the leather around the corners and you are right. It was a mess.. even putting 90 degree notches in them. I wound up using individual 45 degree mitres and sewing separate strips to each side and the bottom. Still ugly, but not as bad as the fold. thanks for the input. It IS greatly appreciated. Tom

Here's the wallet I am working on now. I'm having to use a double-sided tape to hold the strip in place and then sew. The leather strip is 5/16th (17mm) wide and is a tad under 2 oz. The edge of the wallet is about 9 oz at its thickest.

Binding material will be a light leather, probably 3/4" or 1" strap to get a 3/8 to 1/2 inch edge. Raw edge is fine. I'm getting into wallets, bags, purses, etc and looking for a starting point. I'm really not sure of the difference in a swinbg and a stationary binder as to uses and functions. I'm also not sure that the differences are (usage-wise) between straight, 30 degree and right angle ones. Thanks

Is there a binding attachment that will fit a Consew 227R-2? I know I can have a custom one made but I just need something to put light binding on wallets, bags, etc. Thanks

I had the same problem when posting my Singer yesterday. I had to close my browser and go back in, starting over making the ad. Then I uploaded 1 small photo - 58K. After that, I could drag and drop the others in. The site limits us to 1.46 MB of photo uploads. I use a free program to make "email" size copies of my photos to post online. Called Fotosizer. Fast and allows you to automatically create a series of unique filenames for the new copies.

Walking foot in good working condition. Was serviced about 18 months ago and has light use since then. Has the Consew CM-1000 servo motor with small pulley.. Motor has the "Slow-Down" mod to allow better low speed control. Note: Edge guide and lamp seen in photos are not included. Local Pickup only unless buyer arranges packaging and shipping. $725 OBO

This is what I use now. Have the set of 4. I use it almost exactly as shown in the Tandy video. 1st, make 4 lines with a fine sharpie on each side of the sleeve, 90 degrees apart. This gives you 2 lines to line up with the legs of the spot when you push it into the sleeve. The one of the other lines is used to point towards yourself, assuring the legs all go in the same line. You will likely have to spread the spot legs slightly to hold in the sleeve. Put the leather on a piece of scrap and hit the tool, driving the spot through the leather. It may curve the legs a bit, but you can straighten those out next. When you get all the spots driven through, flip it over, make all legs tilt inward and set them with the domed part od the anvil. Then you can flatten them with the flat side of the anvil. Done.. Really quite easy once you try it.

I'm moving this to the proper forum... I am making a tote bag like in the picture attached out of hair on leather. But the test piece I was playing with leads me to believe it will be a bit to floppy without some additional support. But I don't want it to be too visually intrusive, if that makes sense. Since this is my first try with hair on, and since it is the customers side, I only have 1 shot at this. Suggestions MORE than welcome Thanks

I may be wrong, but the top of the bag looks rolled.

Thanks. Much appreciated...

This is the one I have/

This is the one I have/

I just got a new machine with the CSM-1000 but it did not have the instructions on adjusting the settings. Does anyone have a digital copy that they can email me? Thanks

Bad Girl

I did. I was launching from a bookmark..The bookmark is pointing to www.leatherworker.net/content. Delete the bookmark, and put www.leathertworker.net in the address bar. When it comes up, it will have replaced /content with /forum. Save this new bookmark and ti should work. At least that is what I had to do. Tom

Only if you put it on wrong. 50/50 mix with water. 2 or 3 light coats, allowing it to dry between coats. On straps, I flex them a little as they dry.. about 30 second or so.. just until they aren't "wet". Tom

PM'ing you <g>

Well, after reading for hours, I decided to go with a cylinder arm machine. I need it fairly quickly so I found a "new" one at the local sewing machine company. But I need some advice. I had gone in with the Consew in mind. But I have read so much I am over-saturated. They have a supposedly new Techsew 2800, "U"-table, lamp, etc. The owner was not in, but his tech people were not sure if it was new or used. It has oil stains on most of the edges of the covers. the weird part is that is it only on the front edges. It almost looks like it was laid with it's front down for a while and the oil seeped under the covers in the front. Other than that, it is pristine. So, we loaded up some 138 top and bottom and tried to sew a couple of layers of 7/8 oz veg-tan. I have to say, it sewed very smoothly. Techsew has done a good job on their motor mods for it to start out as slowly and smoothly as it did. The stitching at around 5 SPI was good and consistent. Until we hit reverse. Birds nest on the bottom. The tech fussed with the tension a bit and could not eliminate them. He changed the needle to a x16 (had an x17) and it still nested. They dropped to #92 thread in top and it was better but still tangled looking. He finally got another tech to look at it. He opened the bobbin area and said the fingers were adjusted wrong. Then he said the hook and plate needed to be adjusted. The other issue I am questioning is the binder. This machine has the binder attached. I spoke to Techsew and described the parts I saw in a drawer - some different feeders and a smooth plate - and he thought that was the set of parts needed to convert to non-binder use. But, I'm a worry-wart, so I'm looking for some second opinions. So.. at $1500, I only have 1 shot at making the right decision or I'll be sleeping on the couch for a while Should I look at something like the Consew 227 or the Techsew 2700, if he has them locally? Or jump on the 2800 if they get it reversing properly? Any other issues I should consider? Does Techsew take the standard Siger type feet, etc? Thanks all.

I'm going to probably sell my 111W155. Good mechanical condition. Consew servo motor with small pulley. Anyone have an idea of a fair asking price?