TomG

There is a servo motro out there - I think it's a Consew 500 - That uses a Hall Effect transistor. These are actually a semiconductor that energizes with a magnet. So, it's either on or off. You can't do variable speed with those via the foot pedal. The ones with the optical controller, like the one on the video, are able to be variable speed. I Think the COnsew motor I got to replace the hall effect one is a 550 or 1000? I'd have to look. I will tell you that the paper vane didn't work super well. It was fine at first, but as it sagged over a short period of time, it's range and control points changed. One of the isses is that the light on the optical interruptor is way too bright. It makes the control of how much light hits sensor very touchy. And it is so bright that a piece of paper with pencil marks doesn;t work. I used a piece of plastic gift card I cut into a ramp and played with that with some success. I ordered a couple of replacement vanes and did some cutting and filing, but although I did get a variable speed, it was still too touchy for my tastes. But it at least made it consistent and I didn;t have to worry about the paper sagging. Still better than the clutch motor.

Yes. But you have to have an account before you can see the order system. It's not your standard on-line shopping cart system. You have to have your item numbers to put in or you can look up items. I generally open a catalog on one screen and the order screen on another and Ctrl-Tab between the 2. So, if I am ordering say C-54 buckle, and type that into the Item lookup box, it will show me all items with that and I can select the ones I want, one at a time. Not the most efficient way, but it works. And they are great to work with.

Tandy carries it. But after the suggestion from many on these forums, I have just switched to acrylic floor polish (without cleaners or ammonia) diluted 50/50 with water. I actually like it better than the resolene. I apply it with a soft rag. But others apply it with foam brushes, trimmed shearling and other applicators, If you do a search here for Resolene or floor wax, you will find a ton of threads on how to use it or apply it.

Well, I've never experienced this exactly, but I use a totally different technique and process. Well.. I lied... I did see something similar years ago when I was experimenting with stuff. I applied some mink oil to a piece of raw leather. It sort of looked this way, if I remember correctly, and all I could figure is that I was applying it unevenly. I never did figure out how to do it properly. As I would try to even it out, it would get darker and darker. I'd take some scraps and try applying the conditioner using different techniques and applicators.. maybe clip some sheeps wool short, or a soft rag or one of those wax applicator pads they use for car wax. Hopefully, someone with more experience than me will pipe in and be able to shed some light on it. As for the Satin Sheen... it is water based and most folks shy away from it.. not all.. but a lot. From all I've ever read here and elsewhere, Resolene, or acrylic floor wax diluted 50/50 with water is the preferred product. I found the reference guide from Tandy. It's a free download and I'm attaching it here. But it's not actually the one I was thinking of. But it might give you an idea of what's compatible... If I find the more extensive one, I'll let you know. It might be in one of the coloring and dying books I read back when. Later Eco-Flo-Leathercrraft-Dyeing-Finishing-Guide.pdf

Did you dye it first? With what? What sealer? Satin SHEEN is not a real sealer. What conditioner? All products do not play well together. Tandy has a chart somewhere of what works with what...

Weaver has a box, but it's probably expensive. And if you don't use it a look, it's probably too much effort to empty and clean between uses. I've gone to Fiebings edge enamel and apply using a ladies foam tipped makeup applicator. Since I use Leather balm with atom wax as a top coat on the surface is the leather, I found that if I have an Oops, I can quickly wipe it off using a paper towel.

Ohio Travel Bag is my go-to place. I wouldn't use the watch strap bands. That removable pin in the ones I have won't hold a whole lot of sudden impact like a dog tugging a leash, IMHO...

Maybe try leaving off the tankote on the flesh side and just use 3 light coats of Resolene.

Work outside. Brush off what you can. Wipe down with a mixture of lemon juice and water. Rinse in clean water. If it's dirty, use a cleaner like Lexol. If still stiff, some NFO might be in order

Why not try laying it flat on th e stone or anvil when you set it, instead of in the domed holder. Tom

Well, first, your edges themselves look a bit ragged. You might try a burnish first. Make sure your bit is sharp. Burnish the outer cutting edge well. Use firm (not hard) pressure on the blade and on the guide. You might try cutting a small piece of silicon paper and putting it between the piece and the slab. Then place the edger and guide in position and rotate the leather and keep the groover steady. You may want to take a couple of passes to get the depth you want. The leather looks soft. if it is moving as you cut, it's gonna look ragged. You have to keep that edge from collapsing. If you can't, I'd dump the guide bar and use a small French curve to cut against as a guide.

As I mentioned, I have NO experience with it... But from what I was told, it has a lower working temp than Kydex. An isn't Kydex fixed once it has cooled? Can you heat it back up and rework it?

Here are a couple of items from Staples. Apollo Audio Visual Transparency Film for Laser Printers , Clear http://www.staples.com/Apollo-Audio-Visual-Transparency-Film-for-Laser-Printers-Clear/product_829903 ************************* This is a Write-On film but says it needs special marking pens... Didn't see those listed, but I only did a quick search. Apollo® Write-On Transparency Film, Clear, 8 1/2"(W) x 11"(H), 100/Box http://www.staples.com/Apollo-Write-On-Transparency-Film-Clear-8-1-2-W-x-11-H-100-Box/product_APOWO100CB Good luck

They make a laser film. Just test for shrinkage. the older stuff used to shrink about 10%. And check your settings for a Label setting on the printer. Older printers had fusers that got too hot for the film and could actually melt it.

If you have a scanner, scan the paper pattern, then print on inkjet transfer paper (Tandy, Staples, etc). Perfect transfer... I haven't used these films, but we do screen printing and use a transparent film for making our screens. We have 2 types of film. Waterproof and non-waterproof. One was for use with the older dye-based printer inks and the other used for the newer pigment based printer inks. I'll be at Tandy Monday and if I can remember, I'll see if they have a scrap of the film and I'll draw on it using different inks I have, I have sharpies with regular ink and with oil-based paint, a couple of Molotow pens and a couple of others with India ink.

I saw this just this week. The folks at my Tandy said it's pretty neat stuff. BUT... It is remoldable thermoplastic. In other words, if you leave that nice mask in the car, you will come out to find a mess. If you use it as a bag stiffener, and leave it in the card, you may come back to find it molded in the shape of the contents of your bag <g>... Maybe it's my lack of imagination, but it seems to me the only real use for it might be as stiff templates and them melt it back into a sheet for the next one...

Ahhhh.. Don't you just love guilt

Thanks. Already did that

Thanks King. I didn't see that particualr one when I did a search Sunday, but I'll check him out.

Anyone have a spare to sell? Mine broke last night and I'd like to replace it. Thanks

Having to hold tension for the first few stitches is normal for these machines

I hate it when I'm wrong, but I am . I can see what looks like the edges of a plate on some of the designs. But even though creating and making a custom letter plate is fairly simple if you have the right equipment, is it really economical to do so for 1 item? I also do embroidery, screen printing and heat pressed vinyl and if it takes me more than 15 - 30 minutes to do the prep and creation, I can lose money on single shirts. Where did the photo come from? Maybe you could ask the source?

I use the 1/2", 3/4" and 1" round ring with a 6" chain - for a 3" spread. I also use the 1-1/2" D-ring model, also with a 3" spread (6" chain). Those are all nickel plated. Personally, I would not be opposed to trying some of these smaller sizes in D-rings as well. I do have 3/4" rings in brass - I think it's plated.. same 3" spread. But I'm not sure if that supplier will be carrying them any more. Last time I ordered, it took 4 months to get them. He literally had to wait for a slow boat from China..... I'm kind of glad my demand for brass chain Martingales is low <g>. But they were the only supplier of brass I found in the US. And 3/4" was the only size they had.

Looks hand cut to me. Print it on paper, trace onto a cased strap and carve/bevel.

I've used OTB almost exclusively, whenever I can. I do wish they carried Martingale chains though. Nickel AND Brass would be nice <g> And Jackie -- do whatever it takes to keep Sandy happy! She's been more than helpful to me every time I needed help. She bends over backwards to satisfy her customers....