TomG

Why not try laying it flat on th e stone or anvil when you set it, instead of in the domed holder. Tom

Well, first, your edges themselves look a bit ragged. You might try a burnish first. Make sure your bit is sharp. Burnish the outer cutting edge well. Use firm (not hard) pressure on the blade and on the guide. You might try cutting a small piece of silicon paper and putting it between the piece and the slab. Then place the edger and guide in position and rotate the leather and keep the groover steady. You may want to take a couple of passes to get the depth you want. The leather looks soft. if it is moving as you cut, it's gonna look ragged. You have to keep that edge from collapsing. If you can't, I'd dump the guide bar and use a small French curve to cut against as a guide.

As I mentioned, I have NO experience with it... But from what I was told, it has a lower working temp than Kydex. An isn't Kydex fixed once it has cooled? Can you heat it back up and rework it?

Here are a couple of items from Staples. Apollo Audio Visual Transparency Film for Laser Printers , Clear http://www.staples.com/Apollo-Audio-Visual-Transparency-Film-for-Laser-Printers-Clear/product_829903 ************************* This is a Write-On film but says it needs special marking pens... Didn't see those listed, but I only did a quick search. Apollo® Write-On Transparency Film, Clear, 8 1/2"(W) x 11"(H), 100/Box http://www.staples.com/Apollo-Write-On-Transparency-Film-Clear-8-1-2-W-x-11-H-100-Box/product_APOWO100CB Good luck

They make a laser film. Just test for shrinkage. the older stuff used to shrink about 10%. And check your settings for a Label setting on the printer. Older printers had fusers that got too hot for the film and could actually melt it.

If you have a scanner, scan the paper pattern, then print on inkjet transfer paper (Tandy, Staples, etc). Perfect transfer... I haven't used these films, but we do screen printing and use a transparent film for making our screens. We have 2 types of film. Waterproof and non-waterproof. One was for use with the older dye-based printer inks and the other used for the newer pigment based printer inks. I'll be at Tandy Monday and if I can remember, I'll see if they have a scrap of the film and I'll draw on it using different inks I have, I have sharpies with regular ink and with oil-based paint, a couple of Molotow pens and a couple of others with India ink.

I saw this just this week. The folks at my Tandy said it's pretty neat stuff. BUT... It is remoldable thermoplastic. In other words, if you leave that nice mask in the car, you will come out to find a mess. If you use it as a bag stiffener, and leave it in the card, you may come back to find it molded in the shape of the contents of your bag <g>... Maybe it's my lack of imagination, but it seems to me the only real use for it might be as stiff templates and them melt it back into a sheet for the next one...

Ahhhh.. Don't you just love guilt

Thanks. Already did that

Thanks King. I didn't see that particualr one when I did a search Sunday, but I'll check him out.

Anyone have a spare to sell? Mine broke last night and I'd like to replace it. Thanks

Having to hold tension for the first few stitches is normal for these machines

I hate it when I'm wrong, but I am . I can see what looks like the edges of a plate on some of the designs. But even though creating and making a custom letter plate is fairly simple if you have the right equipment, is it really economical to do so for 1 item? I also do embroidery, screen printing and heat pressed vinyl and if it takes me more than 15 - 30 minutes to do the prep and creation, I can lose money on single shirts. Where did the photo come from? Maybe you could ask the source?

I use the 1/2", 3/4" and 1" round ring with a 6" chain - for a 3" spread. I also use the 1-1/2" D-ring model, also with a 3" spread (6" chain). Those are all nickel plated. Personally, I would not be opposed to trying some of these smaller sizes in D-rings as well. I do have 3/4" rings in brass - I think it's plated.. same 3" spread. But I'm not sure if that supplier will be carrying them any more. Last time I ordered, it took 4 months to get them. He literally had to wait for a slow boat from China..... I'm kind of glad my demand for brass chain Martingales is low <g>. But they were the only supplier of brass I found in the US. And 3/4" was the only size they had.

Looks hand cut to me. Print it on paper, trace onto a cased strap and carve/bevel.

I've used OTB almost exclusively, whenever I can. I do wish they carried Martingale chains though. Nickel AND Brass would be nice <g> And Jackie -- do whatever it takes to keep Sandy happy! She's been more than helpful to me every time I needed help. She bends over backwards to satisfy her customers....

Need some suggestions. I have always used Fiebings Antique Paste to highlight my stamped letters. I apply Atom Wax with Leather Balm to the dyed leather, let it dry, buff and then use a dauber to apply heavily. I let it sit for a few minutes and then use a pad made from a clean, folded rag to wipe off the surface.. sort of like a reverse block dye. This get the paste off the surface and leaves in in the grooves. With the dog collars,. I know that over time, it may flake out., but I also know that a dog scratching a flea on his neck will scratch and gouge the leather as well. It's sort of to be expected. But I have recently been trying to figure out a better way. Since I am not real good at painting in the lines, a brush and paint is not a good solution. I discovered that Sharpie makes some extra fine tipped, oil-based paint markers. Black and white paint. Super.. These do a great job, except they seem to get a bit plugged up by the leather fibers at the bottom of the letter grooves. They then seem to like to stop flowing and the paint then forms a drip ball at the top of the stylus. The other issue is that the tip size seems great for 1/2" letters. But the 3/4" and 1" need a bigger tip and the standard fine point sharpie is too large. I bought some Copic refillable Multiliner SP pens today, but they seem to get clogged by the fibers as well. I'd like the refillable pen, but need tip sizes of .1, .3 and .7 or so. Any suggestions?

That sounds like the copper rivets we were discussing. http://www.nrsworld.com/prodimages/7730-DEFAULT-l.jpg

Yeah.. Big Lew is right. You can't always trust places - especially Amazon - for price guides. Many time I've seen items that are available from 6 vendors for $10 and then 1 vendor has it for $326.23, So who knows. But., I'll third it.. Do your research.... Price accordingly

Rivets can fail if either too long and are bent when setting, or too short and don't flare properly. Recommended height of the post is 1/16 inch above the pieces you're joining. But Bob is right. For max strength, use copper rivets with the washer Tom

You'll probably make more from them by selling individually. But it's a lot more work. You may want to sell individually, and after a few weeks or so, off whatever is left as a package... USPS has a large variety of shipping methods available, including a book rate for the manuals and DVDs. Their Priority service has up to a 70 pound rate. I see nothing you have that could not be mailed. If you have a PayPal account, they have a Multiorder shipping tool that will let you mail all of this stuff from your house. You can create and pay for your labels and postage from your PC - including 1st class postage - and your carrier will pick it up like your regular mail. You should be able to even have the post office deliver Priority boxes and envelopes to your door at no charge. You'll have to provide your own 1st class packaging. I'd be surprised if you don't get quite a few responses here. You have a nice collection.

Yeah Oldhat.. There's the rub.... I get orders for red, green, pink (hate it), brown black and blue (hate that one too, if they want very light blue.. never have succeeded at that one.)

Haha... that's why I left myself an out .... I'd like to hear the testing results if you ever do it!.. I make a lot of dog collars and some are for water dogs, and the owners like them as waterproof as possible.... As for testing, maybe take 2 identical pieces of leather and coat all over with the product. Weight them. Soak in water for 5 minutes and then weight. That would tell you how much water is absorbed. Maybe do some rub-off tests on white fabric? I'm just thinking out loud here. If I had the others, I'd be glad to help.... All I've got for waterproofing right now is the Snow Proof and some Mink Oil Paste.

Tandy has Fiebings Snow Proof... I've used it successfully on some dog collars. I've been told it is about the same as the Sno Seal, but have no proof one way or the other. http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/department/liquids-n/conditioners-n/2345-00.aspx

Same. 50/50 resolene most of the time. I've also used Mink OIl Paste, Aussie Leather Conditioner or Saddle Lac depending on the purpose and use.