TomG

I've been using 50/50 Resolene for a long time now as a finish. I'm getting low, and my local Tandy is totally out for who knows how long. So I looked for some Mop N Glow as described here, All I can find is the lemon scented cleaner/polish, which I read was not exactly what I wanted. I also saw some posts about Pledge Finish and other generic acrylic floor waxes instead. So.. I picked up some acrylic floor finish from Home Depot today and did some coats of straight and 50/50 mix on some scrap. also coated a scrap with 50/50 re and 100% res as a comparison. The question is, how do I test it against resolene? Water drops? I did put a drop of water on each piece, watched it bead up a bit, and it did absorb slightly on both the resolenes and the substitute. Did some flex tests and got no cracks or flaking... Both polish up to about the same gloss. What else can I do to test before I use it on customer's items? Thanks

Yeah... Ya gotta have fun with some of these posts !! The Devil made me do it. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it....

I make tons of straps with buckles. From 1/2" wide for small collars, to 2+" for belts. The wider the strap, the longer the tab end that is skived. Like Chief, I have a set of templates that I use for each size strap that I can mark the rivet holes and the tang slot. 1-1/4" wide, I skive about 5-1/4. 1-1/2" wide, 5-1/2". If you are going to be using a keeper, I also tend to skive it down to about 1/2 the thickness of the strap. So, a 10oz strap gets down to about 5/6 oz. It's not critical. Wide straps might get skived down to 3/4 the thickness and so on. If you are using a very wide keeper, you might go a tad longer.

JLS -- Hilarious!!!! Halitech - I would think that the amount of pressure and force needed to mold to a set of DD's would be pretty high. Will expanding foam hold up to a lot of pressure??? But if it will, just buy a cheap bra at Walmart and will that with the foam. Of course, you lose out on the fun of wrapping her.... If you have a lathe, or a friend with one, I'd turn some forms and size them to her bra. Then form the leather over that. And you have a permanent souvenir as well!

Hi Alex, Latigo is oils and wax already, so I doubt that you'll hurt it. I used to use mink oil paste all the time on vegtan and it made the leather extremely pliable and water resistant as well. Try a piece of scrap, rub it in and let it sit overnight. Rub it and see how it looks. Let us know.

When skiving along and edge to do - say a fold - do you do the cut on the granite slab or a cutting mat or board? My knife is sharp, but it grabs and drags. But I would think the slab would dull the knife tip quickly. Suggestions?

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. But I don't let it dry totally. I wait until its a little tacky (about 10 minutes or so), and then press together and clamp overnight. That being said, if I have really porous or "fluffy" leather, I have been known to apply the cement as a sealer, let it dry for an hour or so, and then apply a second coat and then join when tacky.

I've used Weldwood for some time now. If you apply it properly, it will "pull apart", but that is actually the fibers of the leather ripping out, in my experience. If it's much thicker than Karo syrup, something is wrong. Old... been frozen.. something. As for thinning. a couple of long-time woodworkers told me to thin contact cement with the same brand of thinner as the cement. Something about the solvents used between different brands. I've heard others thinning with Acetone, but never tried it.

Mustangman. It's also called resist. Used to block dye from penetrating the leather. It works in varying degrees depending on the color, how the dye is applied, how many coats of blockout, what blockout you use, etc. People have used Super Sheen, Satin Sheen, Resolene (favorite), liquid latex and lord knows what else.

Use full strength Resolene. 2 or 3 coats. Works great for most color dyes.

First, don't use newspaper if you can help it. I've had the ink lift off the paper and stain my wet leather. I'm not sure how you are applying it, but I use a sponge and apply in a circular motion. this evens out the dye. You can also spray with an airbrush or dip dye. I've found that on dip dying straps, I sometimes get that darker dye on the edges when wet, but as it dries, it evens out. Try the sponge and see if it helps

Didn't know it was hand stitched. Yes, I was referring to machine. I'd still tape it.

Should help. It looks like your bottom feed dog is pushing the tape up and the top is not feeding as much. Double sided tape.... Better than glue

Haha. I usually just add about 5mm to the spacing for the 45mm wide watches.

Hi Eemo, I was referring to the problem of if you put the watch pin in on one end and then put the strap on, buckling it onto your wrist, the curve of your wrist will cause the other pin holder to move away from the watch. This is for 1-piece watch bands.

Nice. Do you have construction plans available?

Thanks Bob, Yup. I've seen some of those. They do look very strong, although I found them to be kinda stiff. But this customer is insistent on leather. Never used snoseal. Will it stop bleeding when the leather gets wet? He is wanting Chocolate Brown. Believe me, I've done everything short of refusing the order <g>.... But he's been warned. I'm just trying to make it all work.

I am making a collar for a dog that will be spending a lot of time in the water and the owner really wants the leather collar. We understands the downside and the maintenance he's going to need to do. Is there a finish that will waterproof and stop any chance of bleeding onto the dog's fur? Historically, I have used Resolene and occasionally Saddle Lac, but have never soak tested them, and don't have time to do it now. Thanks

Did you ever sell this? Im in Buford ga

When making a 1 piece strap with the flat loops for the pins, how do you all account for the curve around the wrist. If.I have the watch (seldom) it's not a problem. But when making from a measurement it's a sort of guess. I've been adding 5mm but not sure if there is a formula or something that will beore accurate. Tom

All the above is true. You need zero bounce or you may be making ghost impressions. If your leathers too wet, it will stamp easily but will mush the edges. Like Dwight said... a brief dunk, let it come back to looking dry but cool and stamp. Dunk.a test piece at the same time and try it first. You can always add a but of water with a sponge. Too dry and you can beat it until you die, and get no impression.

Kits depend... the only problem I have with kits, is I have seen some of the precut leather can be a little dry. And that wooden mallet sucks. The tools will be the same as on the Tandy shelf. Not top of the line, but sufficient to see if you are going to like the hobby. 5 stamps will cost as much as that starter set. You will also need a good slab of granite. And maybe a Poly mallet to start. Others will chime in on their opinions as well, I hope....

Tandy has a starter set for $50 (#55501-00). It has a few basic tools, a swivel knife, 4 projects, and some other stuff. One of the things you have to be careful of is the disease.... Buying tools you really don't need yet.. or will never need.. gets expensive fast. Oh.. No one has pointed out.. to carve or stamp, we use Veg-Tan leather. For garments, we use chrome-tan or other leathers. Where do you live?

Not really stressed. But a little lost at times. But I had a local mentor of sorts. And that was before I found the leatherworkers site. What equipment and supplies do you have?

The guitar case looks like one I think maybe Peter Main made? It looks familiar... The craigslist from Austin that you posted has been flagged for removal... Sorry you got your stuff bootlegged... But, Karma will get the AH...